Presents for Home

A busy day. Soon after breakfast Florence and I started out to look for my presents. Helen and Mrs. Addison started with us but they soon left. We had to go way down to the Via Roma before we found what we wanted but then we got all the presents but those for the children – for Elizabeth Young* – Jeannie Adams – the two at Gray Rocks – I bought a collar from Florence for Margaret and I have something for K.D.M.* Helen gave me a very pretty book with blank pages to write the children’s poems in – I gave her $2 to buy a silver spoon or a button hook. I gave Florence for a parting gift, a copy of the new Pompeian Flora I bought – 3 to give away – also an Italian dictionary and advanced grammar with key. After lunch F.B.H. washed her hair. I went out and bought toys for the two babies and then took a ride in the 3-horse minibus from one end to the other and return. It was along the Via Roma and was most interesting. Bought some crackers for the ship. My trunk came from the station, but not the corsets that I left to be cleaned. I have written the note to the Banca Credito Italiano asking to have the $200 transferred to the Bank of Italy in San Jose. Also a letter to Percy telling him about it and thanking him for the money, also to Margaret telling her what to do with my things in case I fail to reach Amherst.

*Possibly Hugh Young’s daughter. Hugh Young married the sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Thurston.
**Katherine Duncan Morse, sister in law of Margaret.

Last Look at Naples

I slept well. It was nearly nine before I went down to b’fast, but to my surprise found I was the first one there. Helen went to the boat to see about steamer chairs and the stewardess while Florence and I went to White Star Line to try to change our stateroom and also to secure seats at the table which we did – first table. Then we went to Am. Consulate and registered and Florence asked how she should get the rest of her money that is in the state dep’t after she returns to America. Everyone seems to be sailing on the Canopic.* About 450 they said at the consul’s.

After lunch, had a nap. Florence and I were going to San Martino and invited Helen and Mrs. Addison to go but they declined so we started alone. It was too late to go to San Martino as it closes at 4, so we went to Posillipo Cape – in tram No. 2. It was a beautiful drive overlooking the water. We came back in the same car and went to the Galleria Umberto Primo where we sat and watched the people and Florence treated me to an ice. Then we had to come back.

At dinner Florence held the 5 months old German baby. It is bright and cunning. At 9.15 the chambermaid brought a big pitcher of hot water and I washed my hair and chatted with Mrs. Addison. It is nearly midnight and it isn’t dry yet.

I had a nice letter from Hazel – No. 14. In it she said their old car had been acting so that they had bought a Cadillac self starter.** I am so glad.

*When war broke out in August of 1914, many of the great opera personalities of the time were in Europe. By late autumn, getting out of Europe wasn’t so easy. But the steamship would become known as “Opera’s Noah’s Ark” when stars such as Enrico Caruso, Geraldine Farrar, Antonio Scotti, conductor Arturo Toscanini, and theater manager Giulio Gatti-Casazza, among others, made their way from various points on the continent to return to North America. The Canopic passage is represented in Act II, Scene I of Visi d'Arti. (from history of Visi d'Arti.)
**The “self-starter” was introduced on Cadillac as standard equipment in 1912.

Nativity of the Virgin

Slept pretty well. Mosquitoes bothered me. Soldiers are marching past. Did not have b’fast till nine o’clock so many little fussy things to do. I was the last one in the dining room. Then went to White Star Line and paid for the balance of the passage on Canopic for Florence, Helen and myself – and was pleased to know that it was 34 francs less than I thought. Met some people I knew at the Conte. Hunted up a place to have my corsets washed. Came home and sewed till lunch. Nothing I could eat at lunch so had two eggs. Then lay down for nearly three hours. I was so tired. Part of the time slept, part of the time Conan Doyle’s Round the Red Lamp. Went to the station to meet Florence, Helen, and Mrs. Addison. Found they had had a jolly time coming down. Florence and Helen went up in the carriage and I waited ¾ of an hour with Mrs. Addison for her trunk, but it had not come on the train so we had to leave without. Florence and Helen have front rooms – second floor.

We had a very poor dinner. Florence went out to see Mr. Muller about it - got no satisfaction. Said he was losing $60 a day – would soon close. There was a fiesta here tonight – the Nativity of the Virgin – and Helen and Mrs. Addison and I went to see it. We walked way up to the Toretta. It was principally observed by young men and boys blowing tin horns incessantly. Crowds were in the streets and there were multitudes of small stands where they sold everything ginger bread horses – all things of prepared food, first principally grapes and figs – tables with cactus fruit which must grow here very plentifully. – I saw a few pomegranates and quinces – horns of course – toys – dry goods and laces – everything exposed for sale. The crowd was good natured. There were the long curled up toys that straighten out when you blow and a young girl blew one twice at Helen and made her jump – which greatly amused them. Got the car home. It was 11.20 before we got in. I was so tired I slept – but I think the horns were going all night – as I could hear one once in a while.

Sunday in Naples

I slept well, but am still tired. This precious hotel does not furnish hot water. Miss Wolff tried to quarrel with me over the war, but I wouldn’t argue. Honey for breakfast!!

At 10.20 started out to telegraph Florence and to go to the English church which I knew was near. Sent F. this telegram. “Come third. 20 minutes at Rome. Take corridor car. Be sure ticket has date stamped in lower corner.” Then started for church. Turned too soon and had to inquire and finally was escorted by a very nice Italian woman to a closed church where French and German services were held not to be opened until Oct. 1. Then I went back to the main street running along the park and found a girl who told me where the church was. I was 20 minutes late but I like to go to church. It does me good. Walked home going into a church on the way.

Took a nap after lunch. Then went out and took a long tram ride that the hotel clerk recommended – No. 6 – over the hill and along the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and returned the same way. Walked back from the Toretta along the water. It was beautiful.

After dinner wrote part of a letter to Percy and read some of an Italian paper by means of a dictionary, but was so tired I had to give up and go to bed.

Florence, Italy to Naples, Saturday Sept. 5th Alfred’s* birthday

Helen came down to my room at 5 but I was so tired I asked her to wait till 5.30. Dressed. Helen did up my steamer rug roll - and Florence my hats. Left about 6.40. Found Mrs. Zupponi at station. Went 3rd class – not very pleasant to Rome, but all right afterwards. Got into a corridor carriage. Ticket agent forgot to stamp date of departure from Florence and I had a great fuss with the conductor from Rome which half-spoiled my ride. He wanted me to pay 7 lire more and I wouldn’t. He got someone who looked like a Russian Jew to explain and I hunted up an Italian gentleman who spoke English. Finally they let the ticket pass by writing the necessary date re. It formed the chief topic of conversation in the compartment. A father and know-all son, nice young man, young Italian girl with 2 year old baby were the other occupants. Lost my hat pin.

Met a young woman at station in Naples and rode up to the Hotel Muller** with her. Her name is Miss Florence Wolff and she has been over 4 years next November and not only wears a chip on her shoulder, but they stick out all over her. We had a quarrel about the cab fare with the hotel clerk and she nearly fought with me over my share of that expense. Had dinner at 7.30 – only six people – a baby and a dog besides my self – a good room and a small glimpse of the sea. Very tired. Went to bed before ten.

*Alfred Winslow Hincks, her son, born September 5, 1880.
**Today there is a Hotel Muller at Via Sant'alessio 16 in Naples.

More War News and More Shopping

A very busy day beginning at 5.45. The little milliner came at 8.45 with shapes for me to wear – also samples of velvet. Chose a shape and ordered the best black velvet – all at cost of 30 francs for the hat. It was brought this evening and is very pretty. Then I went out and bought some bread and cake for tomorrow’s lunch. Naomi sent back Marion’s lace, beautifully done. Mrs. Zupponi came and went to the bank with me and I drew $50 and deposited $200.

Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.

After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.

Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.

Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.

*Academia di Belle Arti

New Pope, Packing, Lace Shopping, and Sailing on the Arno

Spent the entire morning packing my trunk. I am going down on Saturday with the four trunks and Florence and Helen will remain here to see Mr. Smith settled here. Mrs. Addison called this morning.

After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.

After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.

A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.

Money Found, Shopping and Helping Starving Artist

Mrs. Zupponi came this morning and said she knew where my money was, that it was in the Credito Italiano – that she had been there the day before and they admitted it was there, but would do nothing till they had seen me. That it had been sent to Milano thinking I was there and it was not to be returned to Florence before I could get it or I could have it sent back to America. From there I went to Bargello and took a guide who explained everything to me and I spent 1 ¾ hours there most usefully and pleasantly.

After lunch lay down awhile and tried to find the store where my night gowns were made at 10 Via de’ Benci. They had not reopened. Then we went over to the Fallon’s and had my suit tried on – it fits well. Florence came in to have her clothes tried on and Helen and I left. We were going to the Femminile to try to get lace cuffs to match collar – went into store to see about dictionary when I ran into Mr. Smith, the artist who lived at Mrs. Grassini’s. He was looking pale and thin and said he was going to Rome. I told him Florence knew a nice pension which was cheap and we started out to Carelia’s the tailor’s to find her. She had left and we chased her to the library. She invited him to dinner, but had to go back to the tailor’s, so I took him along with me. He is having a hard time. His money has not come and he has not paid at Fiesole for 4 weeks. They do not give them enough to eat, so he is always buying some extra to eat. He owned up he only had a lira in his pocket book. It seemed that the doctor* had a check of more than enough to pay the board – so that could be cancelled.

We went into the showrooms of the Signa factory and wandered through them admiring everything. Then we came home and Mr. Smith played on the piano while I smoothed my hair re. When Florence came, I consulted her about lending him some money. It was decided to do it, but he wouldn’t take it. We had a jolly dinner with the Braggs and C. Then we were going to the Piazza Emmanuelle to see the crowds, but we got talking downstairs. We forced 150 francs on him and made him promise to come to the Crocini to live. He is coming Sunday and we are to wait for him. He left about 10. I hope he will come for I feel worried about him.

The war news is terrible. Germany seems to be winning on every side.

*Dr. Sterling Barrows. Mrs. Addison’s cousin.

Shopping and Searching for Money

Something I ate disagreed with me and I have felt badly all day. The dressmaker came and tried on my dress. It is very pretty and I like it very much. Gave her the stuff to make a cover for my rug. F.B.H. thought she had left her keys at the Montebello so she went there – later found them under her bed. Mrs. Zupponi came and we went to French, Lemon & Co. Could get no satisfaction about my check – they said they knew nothing about it. No news at the Consul’s. Then met F.B.H. at Cook’s and went to bank Credito Italiano where it was arranged to pay tailor and Dr. Giglioli and the balance sent to North America later on. Then we went through the showrooms of the Signa terracotta.* It is wonderful what they can do. We went to Banca d’Italia and Florence drew out 500 lire – her money from Washington – but no trace of my money. Mrs. Zupponi is coming here tomorrow to take tea.

Florence fortunately remembered the name of the manager of French Lemon and Co. – a Mr. Ayres. She used to know him as he and his wife were friends of Rose Clark. I went to F.L. & Co. but Mr. A. was out, so went home and came again at 3. He said he knew nothing about it and could find no trace of it – said it was safe and the money would be returned to Percy where he mailed it. It is in Italy but they had no word from any bank. Came back at 5. F.B.H. And I went to tailor’s to have suits tried on. They were all right – went around to see about a waist for Florence to go with her new suit. Then to Settipasse’s where I am to have my lava head set for $7 – then on to Pia’s house where they tried on my two waists and can alter them all right. Then home. Florence found she had left her purse at Pia’s with 17 francs in it. I had toast and milk for lunch – soup and toast for supper – felt better.

The Germans are not in Paris yet. They are acting like savages.

*Manifattura Di Signa produced copies of antiquities and renaissance models in terracotta from the late 19th Century. The company had outlets in Florence, Rome and Turin and catered for wealthy patrons doing the Grand Tour of Italy.

War News, Conclave, Errands, Getting Ready,

The Conclave for electing the new Pope begins today – and the Re’d Italia sails for America. I slept very well but am tired from my walk of yesterday.

Florence B. H. is very weak from her illness and has nearly fainted several times – nevertheless, she did a lot of packing. Mme. Zupponi came to see her this morning. I went to Am. Consul’s and found both the Sant Anna and Oceana had cancelled sailing – the latter I was told because they asked too much. No one knew whether the Canopia would sail so I did not send cable.

Went to tailor’s and watched Helen and F. get fitted while I read two Eng. papers I had bought. Then we chose a blue serge for me. F.B.H. said I looked cross and ugly and as if I could eat her up. I guess I did. She got on my nerves – came back to lunch and then I went out again with Helen and sent cable to Margaret – William Morse, Amherst, Massachusetts.
Together, safe – sail Canopic Hincks – 8 words cost $2.50. Then changed F’s dictionary for a better one. Left M’s* lace to be cleaned. Went to Italian chemist and got a prescription filled for F.B.H. went to Settipassi about lava cameo that John** gave me – and came home. Lay down and slept a while before dinner. Little girl came and brought two waists that Pia made – sleeves too short.
Germans within 80 kilometers of Paris. This war is terrible.
Had a letter from Mrs. Oudesluys from Cortina. She seems to have no idea of the situation and I haven’t much myself.

*Maybe a gift for her daughter Margaret or sister Marion.
**Probably John Howard Hincks, her late husband.

Tram Ride in Florence, War News,

I slept very badly – so did not get up until 8.45 and had b’fast in my room. F.B.H. is much better. Syringed out both ears with Helen’s help. Wrote card to Penelope. Tired and very lazy – hooked over letters re.

Helen and I went out about four. We went to the end of the No. 13 tram that goes to Poggio Reale, past the Piazza Michel Angelo and then walked all the way home – a beautiful walk. We stopped at the Piazza Michel Angelo and had some ice cream – which Helen paid for. I bought some flowers for Florence off a little boy.

We spent the evening chatting and comparing the merits of California and of Italy.

It is said that England has sunk their cruisers and a torpedo boat destroyer off Heligoland.* I am tremendously sorry for the men, but I hope Germany will be beaten and that William will lose his crown – Old Wretch.

It sprinkled and threatened rain all day.

*Heligoland is located 70 km (44 miles) off the German coastline and consists of two islands:

Busy Time Getting Ready to Leave, and Pope's Service, War News

Some way I was very late in starting though I am taking my b’fast upstairs now – they have so few to help. Helped F. with her ears – syringing them out. It was 11.30 before I got out. Mrs. Addison, the one who knows Mrs. Blaney – came and said she had heard of an extra berth – she wants to travel with us to Naples. Said she knew of a pension with a view for 6 ½ lire.
I went to the Duomo and saw the last part of the funeral service for the Pope. – It was very grand mummery. Met Mrs. Addison there by accident. Maria and her husband, the former porter. – She looked so thin and sad. I gave her $2.00 and 2 lire to Italia who goes on a week’s vacation. Maria takes her place.

After lunch, went out about my money to the consulate. Did not see the consul, but a gentleman who advised me to get it and take it out. He thought French Lemon’s conduct was suspicious.

Went to tailor’s to say that F.T.H. was sick and could not go to be fitted. Took my veil to be dyed. Met a Mrs. Nevins and went with her in search of an Eng. Newspaper for Florence – later than Aug. 17th – could not get it. We went in to Santa Maria Novella to see the frescoes.

Bought an Italian paper. The news is terrible. Mr. Lang, the young Eng. who has just returned from Vallombrosa,* says the French and English are beaten badly, that Germany is committing every outrage, killing young boys and even babies. They are using not only dum-dum bullets,** but an even more deadly kind. I hope that God will punish that man, Emperor William, as he deserves – for he is the cause of this terrible, inhuman war. I can read a little of the Italian papers, but not much.

After much work finished my boudoir cap. I went into my room and was reading one of Phillip Oppenheim’s*** stories when I fell asleep and did not awaken until 12.40. After that, I washed out my crepe nightgown which has been soaking all day.

The dressmaker brought my dress but there were lots of mistakes which have to be altered. Florence looked after it. Then the milliner brought my hat which was very good. That is the one with the blue feathers that I had last summer and my felt for the boat.

Mrs. Nevins said, “the war was inconvenient coming at the time – that it had inconvenienced a good many people.”

*Vallombrosa is a Benedictine abbey in the comune of Reggello (Tuscany, Italy), c. 30 km south-east of Florence.
**Expanding bullets which were outlawed, but Germany was accused by Belgium of using them during World War 1.
***Phillip Oppenheim (1866-1846) was a very popular and prolific British novelist who wrote genre fiction and thrillers.

War News, Money Difficulties, Shopping,

Bought 8 postals and wrote to all the family saying we were to sail on White Star Line “Canopic” Sept. 10th and mailed them. Hope they will go out on the Re d’Italia Aug. 31st.

Did not leave house until 11.15, then with my feather over to the little milliner. Then met Mrs. [blank] on the Ponte Vecchio. We waited a while for Helen and while waiting she introduced me to an Italian who has a jewelry store in Boston. He hates the climate and wants to return. He says times are terribly hard in the U.S. on account of politics.

Then we went to see the lace. She said she would bring it to show Florence at one. Met Helen and went to the Pia sisters and looked at waists. Brought one back to show Florence – afterwards went back and ordered two for 12 fr. each. Mrs. [blank] came and I bought the collar and ordered cuffs to match. F.T.H. brought one home and letters from home. It was such a treat. She had one from Marion.* She had sent her $500.

Hazel and Percy had cabled me $250 – July 31st and I had never been notified. I went right around to French Lemon & Co. – the clerk said it had not been sent to them but to a bank and they had sent to F.L. and Co. for my address and it had been given in Milan – but I never heard of the money. He did not remember what bank it was in. Went to Banca Commerciale – They did not know of the money – said if I did not need it to let it alone and it would be returned to the sender. Helen got her steamer reservation and paid deposit. Saw Mrs. Addison – she has her bank and is all right for money.

Went to tailor’s for samples was measured for suit. Met Helen going back and I took F’s prescriptions over to the druggists. They cost $1.00 – went into 48 centime store. Coming back looked into Cook’s and saw Helen. Waited 15 minutes for her to come out. Florence felt so badly she did not go to dinner. Her face all swollen from the toothache.

After dinner sat with her till 10.30. She and Helen read the paper while I sewed on the boudoir cap. Mrs. Addison said she heard that perhaps neither the Canopic not the French boat – Sant’Anna – for the 14th would sail. They say the Germans have sown the ocean with fire mines. It is dangerous to go or stay. Bought 2 N.Y. Heralds.

There was a great ringing of the Duomo bell. The signora said it was on account of the Pope’s death. Big service tomorrow. Everything is very cheap and there are wonderful bargains but no money. Big demonstrations somewhere tonight. We were too tired to go. A note from Penelope. She goes home steerage.

Money, Tickets Home, Dressmakers, and Visiting

Dr. Giglioli was coming at 8.30 to see Florence and Helen but he did not come. Florence had to leave as she had an engagement to meet the lady and get the tickets so she went – got the tickets which they found were an upper and lower in an inside state room on the 4th deck for which we pay $105 in gold. In the meantime the dressmaker had come with my dress and Dr. Giglioli came. He was thunder struck when he found we were going home. Florence came in in time to see him and also to see my dress. Then we went to Cateria’s* and Helen ordered a very striking suit. Then I bought the silk for my girdle – the same stuff exactly as we could not match the color. F.B.H. also bought the lace for my sleeves.

After lunch we lay down and then we got dressed and went to Mrs. Zupponi’s, the one who is going to let Florence have 300 lire and get her pay out of the money in the bank. We had a lovely tea party in the little apartment, delicious peaches and bread and butter and cake. It was very nice and pleasant. Helen had to go back about her ticket but F. and I stayed till 6 – looking at the postals of the different places where she had been – it was most interesting. We stopped at a couple of stores on the way back and looked at waists. An eccentric American, a Mrs. Echardt, came to call on Helen and stayed almost all the evening. She was very bright and very funny.

Poor Florence had an ulcerated back. I sat up till after twelve heating hot water for a bottle and reading aloud the news from an old American newspaper. Did not sleep well.

*Possibly spelled “Catana’s” or “Caterina’s”. See September 2nd.

Money, Shopping, and Tickets Home

Woke up at 6. Florence has adjoining room and we talked till time to dress. Went up to b’fast at 8. Then started off for Am. Consul’s to learn news – see if Am. Express checks were good and to buy my dress. Found that Bryan advised all Americans to return as soon as possible for fear of naval battles where the seas might not be safe. Looked up the Re d’Italia. She was such a small boat – did not like her. Am. Express checks are good.

We bought a lovely lace and net and emb. collar for 22 francs. Went to two stores, bought a cashmere silk for 11 fr. a yd., 2 extra yds. for alterations. Took my hat to have feathers extended and recurled and F. took a piece of silk there and they will dye them to match. Then we met Mrs. Zeppone and Helen and Mrs. Z. went to the bank with me and found I could get my S.F. check cashed for 823 fr. and 83 centimes which I received. Hurried home and found the little dressmaker here. Going up in the elevator saw Mr. McLaughlan of San Grinignane in the boat. Spoke to him and he thought I was Florence. I said she would be back soon as she had an appointment. She soon came in and I went down and had my dress fitted. She comes tomorrow to fit it. Went up to see the McLaughlans. Found they had come to offer Florence 2 berths in the Canopic given up by a lady who wishes to sail on the Fabre liner, the Sant’Anna.* We said we could go down at 4.30 to see her.

Lay down after lunch and got up at 3. Helen came in She came in and said she would do what we said but I said she much decide for herself. Went to Cook’s, found they expected more berths on Canopic. We put our names down, first choice. Then Mrs. McL. came in and the one who had two Canopic tickets to sell. She had half promised them to someone else and she was frantic when she found we had taken them. Got talking to her afterwards and found she was a Mrs. Addison who knew Alice Blaney when she was a little girl. She felt very bitterly, but was more reconciled when she found that Florence was really sick. Was talking to her at Am. Consuls when F. came alone. The Consul had sent for her. Someone had cabled her money, but the consulate was closed. We went home. I washed out some things and F. lay in my bed. Then dinner and we came downstairs again. F. and Helen very tired and went to bed.

The news in the papers is very bad. Germany is defeating the Allied armies. It is said she has taken the low countries.

*In 1914, the SS Sant’Anna was one of 11 ships, including eight liners owned by Fabre Line. It was commissioned for the transport of troops, and later torpedoed in 1918 near Bizerte (Tunisia) with 2,000 passengers.

Train Trip: Milan to Florence

Got up at 5.10, dressed, had b’fast and started off in the carriage for the station. Had the window seats, 2nd class and we had a most comfortable trip. The first part of the journey was through level agricultural land – most interesting. After Boulogna [sic] we went into the mountains and through many tunnels – 372 was told – what scenery we saw was beautiful. Reached Florence about two. The man wheeled the things home and we walked – cost a franc apiece. Found our porter – the house locked up and we had to ring. I have my old room and Helen the one above. Florence was at lunch and we took her by surprise. Then we sat and talked. Florence thinks we ought to sail on the Re d’Italian* [sic] on Aug. 31st – a ship of 7500 tons – a very small Italian boat. Everyone says go home, so I think we shall go. I felt terribly about it. I am afraid of the small boat. We went to Am. Consul – no satisfaction. Then to agent of boat who wants $110 for second class passage. Came back to think it over. Decided to get new silk dress so we went way over to Florence’s dressmaker and were late to dinner. She will make my dress and have it finished by Friday night. Had a nice dinner. Then talked and talked about it for hours afterwards.
The great battle is in between the French and English and Germans. It is feared the Germans will win.

*SS Re d'Italia was an Italian ocean liner for Lloyd Sabaudo named for the King of Italy (Italian: Re d'Italia). Launched in 1906, she sailed between Italy and New York and South America for most of her career. During World War I she was employed as a troopship carrying United States troops to France as part of the United States Navy Cruiser and Transport Force. She was scrapped in 1929.

Getting Ready to Leave Milan

Helen went off early to see Dr. Giglioli but missed him. Then she went to Am. Consul’s who advised her to go to America, said he would go tomorrow with his family if his duty did not require him to remain here. Said he thought Italy would go to war after the election of the Pope and that there would be riots re. Helen was there when the telegram was received which telegram I have copied on another page and then she went to the bank and drew some money.

I got started about 10.30 and went up on the roof of the Duomo. It was most wonderful. I did not go up to the highest part because it was not clear and I knew I could not see far off. I actually got lost wandering about the roofs. Saw the statues of Adam and Eve.

Came home and had lunch. Then Helen and I started right off for Cooks to get our tickets and to see about our trunks. On the way I stopped at the Bank Commerciale, but they would not cash my check. Said they would write to Florence and see if it were all right. So of course I wouldn’t leave. We bought 2nd class tickets - 29.75 almost $6. Went to the station and registered the trunks, then went to P.O. and sent them express to F.B.H. Went up to Duomo and I bought some fruit for tomorrow and some post-cards and a paper. The Germans are advancing on the French frontier. Came back and began to pack. It is 7.15 P.M. now. Bought a piece of water melon. FINE. Dr. Giglioli came while we were at dinner. He was very jolly and said it was being around with me that gave Helen hot flashes. Spent the evening packing. All packed before I went to bed.

Milan: Church, Sightseeing, and Ice Cream at Biffi's

I went to the English church where we had the lay service as we did last Sunday. It was a pleasant – helpful service. Coming home, I saw them throwing their dogs into the canal to wash them and to see them swim. Then I went into San Marco where the columns were covered with red brocade. Got twisted about direction and had to inquire.

Helen stayed at home to write letters. She went out and bought the materials for our simple lunch. Afterwards I lay down an hour or so and had a nap. Then Helen and I walked out to the Castello and walked through the courts re.- We were going to the church of San Ambrosio, but I wanted to go home.

About six we started out to go up on the roof – but it was too late, so then we took No. 10 car and went to the Arena and saw the Torres , but we could not go up because there was no one in charge. So we walked home which took us longer than we had expected so we were late to dinner, but they were very nice about it. We had a nice dinner. About 8.30 Helen and I went to the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle where we walked up and down and finally went to Biffi’s* where we had some ice cream. Came back about 10.30.

Received a telegram from Florence with the one word “come”. Also two postals today from her and one from F.T.S. who was just starting off with Tommy, Alfred and the Harris’ into the Cascade Mts. – and a postal from Margaret who was on a four day walking trip with Margie and Katherine, Will and Margaret and Billie Irins**. She said Baby Florence was all right and that Duncan’s arm was doing well.

*See entry for August 11th.
** F.T.S. – Florence Thurston Sanford, Jennie’s daughter; Tommy -Tommy Sanford; Alfred-her son; Margie and Katherine - sisters of Will [William Northrup Morse]; Florence and Duncan are Margaret and Will’s children, 1 and 4 years old.

Milan: Pope's Funeral. Last Minute Sightseeing, and Consula Notice

Helen and I went to the Duomo to the service in honor of the dead Pope. The church was draped in black – the music was fine. Cardinal [blank] was there and preached from a pulpit hung with red. There was a large crowd. We stood on chairs for over an hour then left while the cardinal was preaching.

Went to Thomas Cooks, found out about trains. We shall have to leave at 7 A.M. and go 2nd class as the next train does not start till 1.15 for change at Boulogne [Bologna] and do not get in till nearly or after midnight – so many trains have been taken off. We paid for the trunks Helen’s and Florence’s and ordered them sent to the station at S.P.W. Monday. Then it will cost us 29 + for 2nd class as against 19+ 3rd class. Went to White Star office. They offer Canopic at 475 lire first class four in an outside room. 52 pounds for two in a room.

We had our usual lunch and started out to find Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. It was beautiful. Then we looked around the cloisters and the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie* and walked to the Castello**. We did not go into it for it began to thunder and we hurried home and got in just as it began to pour.

Found in coming back a notice to Americans about transportation from Genoa. I got mad at Helen over it and jumped at her three times and stamped my foot and acted like a crazy fool and she behaved very well. I was tired and I think the succession of thunderstorms (one almost every day) got on my nerves. Made 3 copies of the consular notice and sent one to Mrs. Oudesluys in Cortina and one to Mrs. Tanner in Lauerine and one “express” to Florence in Florence to see if it might change her plans and asked her to telegraph answer. Helen and I went way to the post office to mail it.

*Famous church in Milan which is the location of the Last Supper.
**Castello Sforzesco - a Renaissance castle in Milan with large art holdings.

Milan: Consul's Advice and Making Plans

Miss Anna Horsey said she was going to Genoa and would personally mail my letters given to her in an America-going steamer so I wrote to both Margaret and Alfred telling them I expected to go back to America. Miss H. left at noon today.

Helen went out soon after nine and did not return till after one. I had a letter and two postals from Florence. She said the consul advised everyone to go to America and that she went to see what she could do. $110 was the cheapest rate and that means steerage so she had had the co. wire for berths. She herself does not want to sail for Boston but for New York. Her ear bothers her again and she is going to Rome next week. She is very undecided and does not like to take the responsibility of deciding for other people.

I went to the consul’s office after I read the letters. He said the bank ought to pay me the whole of any check since it must have been deposited after August 4th. He said the bank should have paid Florence 10 per cent instead of 5 - as it was the Royal Command. The consul said we had nothing to fear if we decided to remain on in Italy only prices would probably go up and it might be very hard to get money. On the whole his advice was to go back to America.

Got back to the house and Helen wasn’t here so started lunch. She soon came back and I read her the letters and we decided to go on to Florence so I wrote to F.B.H. and told her we would leave here Monday or Tuesday and to wait for us.

Lay down awhile then got ready and Helen and I went out on the top of a double decker car to Monza* – beautiful ride. Saw the chapel where the king was assassinated – the royal palace, then the cathedral which was most most interesting. Had a lovely ride home. Had our dinner in a café near the Porta di Venezia. The dinner was poor but the surroundings were most interesting.

*Monza is 15 km. from Milan. On the evening of 29 July 1900, King Umberto I of Italy was assassinated in Monza by the anarchist Gaetano Bresci.

Death of Pope

The Pope is dead. Late in starting from the fact that I did not sleep well and I am tired. Helen had a poor night. I was in with her after midnight and fixed her peppermint and hot water. Finally got off about 11 and left the milk bottle. Saw some splendid peaches in the street. Thought Alfred would want me to have them so bought them and then our usual supplies of milk eggs and rolls and came back to the house.

Found a telegram from F.B.H. saying, “Consul advises sailing on Canopic* Sept. 10th - Am booking places.” Well I was struck off of a heap and felt old and discouraged and all my ambition gone. I don’t want to go back for I shall never come again. Read it to Helen. – She is half pleased to go. We went out together and went to the Scala Theatre and saw behind the scenes and to the Council Chamber in the Palazzo Marini. Mailed home letters. Went into Duomo - then home to lunch. Then I had Italian lesson, very good one and then I went out tram riding. Took the Circum?? at Porta Venezia and went all around then took car the wrong way and had another ride. Had a note from the Oudesluys. They are still at Cortina. Also a letter to Florence which I forwarded. It had been sent on from Amherst. We had a nice dinner here in the house – soup, roast beef, and stewed peaches – I read all the stories in the volume I have of Conon Doyle’s around the fire. Most of them are gruesome.

*S.S. Canopic of the White Star Line

Boats to America

Did not get an early start – so I persuaded Helen to go off to the park while I stayed home and mended and wrote to Alfred to send him birthday greetings. Miss Horsey came in and I chatted with her awhile. She is a cousin of Chief Justice White* and a Catholic but very nice for all that.
Helen came in about one bringing the provisions and we had lunch. On the kitchen table I spied a postal for me from Florence saying two Italian boats were to sail from Naples. Aug. 22 and 25th and that Americans in Florence were advised to go by one of those – also that transports for 8000 were being sent over by the U.S. and wanting to know what I wanted to do. Miss Anna Horsey had a letter from Mr. Jones, the Am. Consul at Geneva, saying that the Am. Transports would be here in two weeks.
I don’t want to return to America, but I would prefer to go in a transport. I wrote to Florence at once telling her what Miss Horsey had told me. Then I had my Italian lesson. I feel I am improving. Then I went to Cook’s and met Helen and Miss H. and we took two nice trolley rides in new parts of the city and then went to the Orologia and had dinner and the waiter overcharged on everything and I made him take most of it off. Then we went into the Galleria and met Miss Horsey and we had ices and listened to the music. Came home at 10 – I found the outside door locked and had a time opening it.
Finished my letter to Alfred and wrote this. The paper tonight said the poor old pope** is dying.
*Edward Douglass White, Chief Justice, 1910-1921.
**Pope Pius X died on Aug. 20, 1914.

In Milan, Visit to the Brera & War Worries

Tried to read the Italian newspaper while I was eating b’fast, but there were too many words to look up that I couldn’t very well.
Helen went to the French Consul’s with a Miss Horsey, the new boarder, while I went to the Brera Gallery which I very much enjoyed, especially the fore-shortened Pieta by Andrea Mantegna, the most powerful picture I think I ever saw. I also especially liked the Dance of Cupids by Franc [Francesco] Albani. I was so impressed by the Pieta that before I left, I went back through all the rooms to see it again. I was there almost two hours and a half.
Came back and found Helen here. She said the French Consul said you could go into France all right, but he was not sure you could cross the Channel. We had a nice lunch, scrambled eggs in my little pans. It was late when we had the dishes washed – so I looked over my Italian paper till 4 when I took my lesson. I can see I improve even with so little study. Then Helen and Miss H. went to interview the Am. Consul, but I had a waist re. soaking in the washbowl – I washed them out – and intended to go in the train around the city, but I felt tired and stayed at home and mended instead.
We had dinner here – we were promised soup – which we had and roast-beef which turned out to be a pot-roast. Talked awhile after dinner. Then went into my room and went on with my sewing. Helen read me aloud a short story of Conan Doyle.
I had a letter from F.B.H. She says Dr. G. wants us all to go to the Mts. He thinks Italy will be drawn into the war and that conditions will soon improve. F. is having a new blue silk dress made. A nice letter from Hazel telling about little John and one from Hortense Oudesleys written Aug. 4 from Cortina. Said the war had broken out and advising me not to come. I hope they are all right.

Shopping and Eating

We went out about eleven and bought some little things we needed. I bought the materials for a boudoir cap and an aluminum pan to scramble eggs – and Helen bought blacking* and braid. We wandered around the streets gazing in the windows, and finally came back for lunch about one. Then the wood alcohol gave out and I started to find some and went to six stores before I got it. A man started to give me some thick brown stuff which proved to be varnish. We had a nice lunch – eggs, milk, rolls, and I had a melon and cake besides. Then I took my daily lesson in reading the newspaper from Mr. Betham. Then Helen and I went out and took a long walk in a new direction following Via Torino. It was very interesting. We went into several old churches – came back to the Cooperative Ristorante and had a good dinner for 2 francs a piece. Then we went home and found a new boarder, a Miss Horsey from Washington. She has an engagement Nov. 1st in Washington and she is crazy to get back on the first boat going. She is very pessimistic about the situation. I suppose I ought to be and perhaps don’t realize the danger, but I am entirely enjoying myself very well. I began a letter to Alfred this morning.
We had a curious dessert – a kind of egg nog whipped up with white wine – very good. It is called Zabalione. [zabaglione]
* shoe polish

English Church, and sight seeing,

I got so excited studying last night that I didn’t sleep last night very well, so it was late before I got started.

I went to the English church. There was no minister but they had a lay service and I liked it very much. It was slow and reverent. It was dark and began to rain before I got home. Then Helen came in; she had been to the Brera gallery.

I cleaned the spots of my white dress and Helen cleaned hers. Then we had our usual lunch of eggs, milk, rolls, and fruit and cake. I lay down and slept nearly two hours. It rained at intervals all day, and sometimes poured. About 6, we started to take the train that goes around the city. We went ¾ of the way around when it began to lighten and to rain hard so we got out of the car and went upon the Porta Venezia, and stayed there until the storm broke – then we took No. 26 train back to Via Brera – there we went to the Cooperative restaurant upstairs and found it crowded. No meat was left but roast veal so we left and went down stairs and had dinner in the restaurant below where we sat in the Vittorio Emmanuelle and watched the crowds.

Came back about 10 – Did not take a lesson today because it was Sunday. Read a column of the paper with difficulty.

Duomo Service, Jennie's View of Priests, and Visit to Orologio

Helen and I went to the Duomo to see the big service in honor of the ascension of the Virgin. The archbishop was there – a lot of priests re. – the organ and two choirs of men and boys and a large congregation filled the church. We had good seats in the choir. I enjoyed the music very much. The service itself seems tawdry and cheap and I cannot see how a self-respecting man can be a priest and go through such a farce. After the service was over, we wandered around a while and came home and had lunch - then lay down.
I got up and was dressed shortly after four to take my lesson in reading the Italian newpapers. Then I wrote a family letter to Margaret – telling her what we were doing and asked her to send it to Uncle Hugh and so on to Alfred. Mailed it on our way to dinner. We went to the Orologio* and had a rather poor dinner – enjoyed seeing the crowd of people.
I sat up and wrote off the ?? that I had gathered from the Italian papers and that Mr. Betham had translated for me. Wrote a note to Florence in the morning and mailed it when we went to the Duomo.
*An area of Milan

Checking boats home and a good dinner

I slept very well and the pain in my back is better. I think it is sciatica. I found Helen feeling very poorly. She had had a bad night from heat and indigestion. She stayed in bed all the morning. Mr. Betham came in and I had another lesson on the paper. Then I wrote a note to Florence. – at one I started out to mail it. Stopped at Thomas Cook’s and found a postal card from Florence at Florence. She feels the heat very much. She is at the Crocini.

Went to the P.O. and then to the Am. Consul’s where I was told that the Carpathia* was to sail Aug. 31st and that probably normal conditions would ensue. Bought some supplies and came home. Tried to buy some felt roosters for my two babies, but they asked too much. We had lunch at 3 and cleared away the things. Then I slept an hour and a half. Then Helen and I got dressed and went down to the public gardens where we walked around and watched the children and then went to a restaurant in the park and had chicken, spinach and macaroni and very good too. Sat in the park till nearly 10 P.M. and came home and read two short stories by Conan Doyle. Helen feels better tonight. Poor ink.

*The Carpathia was a Cunard ship which had been involved in the rescue of the Titanic’s passengers in 1912. On September 5th, 1914, it was fined by the Italian government for transporting emigrants without a license.

Milan

I think I was too excited over my Italian lesson to sleep well. Made arrangements with Miss Betham for hot water to wash my hair and had a fuss with the two sisters over the towels as they said they never gave but two a week. However, they ended by giving me two clean ones. They brought the water in ¾ of an hour late so I could not go out this morning as I had planned. After washing my hair, I washed my nightdress and other things and mended my stockings and made a little pincushion and stuffed it with pieces of F.B.H.’s old cotton gloves. Helen went out to get milk and rolls and we had lunch and then we went to the Piazza Reale and went through the King’s apartments which were very fine. We went into the Duomo a few minutes where three frightened homesick Americans accosted us. I left Helen with them and went home to take my Italian lesson. Read several columnists in today’s paper.

Then Helen and I went out an took a nice car-ride – no. 26 – by the Giardino Pubblico, got back in time for dinner which was so-so. In the evening, we went to a moving picture show which was poor – got home about 10.40.

Bought some baume analgesique to run on my back which has ached ever since I was in Venice. Nice letter from Florence written in Oregon July 16 – Alfred, Mr. O’Conner, Julia and Laura Hainer were going into the High Sierras together.

There is no fresh news of the war. Italian papers are filled with German brutalities.

Sightseeing in Milan -- thinking about whether to leave

Slept very well. Had b’fast in bed and had a good time studying the Italian adverbs. It must be the reason they are so unstable, they have so many adverbs to slip around in – a great many mean the same thing.

Mended my white skirt where it reamed out. It was after eleven before I was ready to go out. We went to Cook’s. No letter – to Am. Express Co. – no letter – then back to Cook’s to see if there were a telegram; found a letter from F.B.H. saying she was all right and going to the Crochini.

Went to Am. Consul’s. No news. Saw an assistant who said don’t be frightened and don’t get into that horrid crowd of frightened Americans. If you have money, stay over and enjoy yourselves. We bought some peaches and came home and had lunch. Then lay down; I had a fine nap. Went to Cook’s and found that the trunks were all right, did not have to be opened.

Then we took a train ride to Sempione. We went by Napoleon’s arch and by a beautiful park. Got back in time for dinner. The brother was there. The two sisters and the brother drank two big bottles of red wine. The dinner was very nice – vegetable soup, string beans, chicken with browned potatotes – cheese and peaches – about two francs.

Then I took a lesson in reading the Italian papers. They do not seem like real news, but like reading a history. I hope the Germans and Austrians are thoroughly beaten. I detest them.

Sightseeing in Milan

I slept well and feel better, but my back still aches. Had b’fast in bed and then my bath. Studied Italian grammar hard for an hour. Helen went out and came back about one. She got 200 lire in her letter of credit at the Bianco Cos??? No letter at Thomas Cook and Sons from Florence. She went to the consul’s and had the error in the date of her registration certificate changed. He had written it to expire at once. Helen said it was posted in Am. consul’s office steerage passage to America $150.

She went out a second time to get milk and rolls and we had lunch in my room. It cost us each nine cents – milk, an egg, rolls, cake, no fruit. We have the greatest time over our money. We settle up every night before we go to bed and often two or three times a day – one pays for the other, or buys food re. – Lunch was not over till after three. Then we both lay down.

We went out about 5.30, went to the Piazza del Duomo and took a car no. 10 and rode to the end and back and then we were looking for a restaurant that Miss Betham told us about and lo! There was Dr. Giglioli, jolly, nice as ever – asked about Florence and admired our going to a cooler place – Said he thought Italy would remain neutral – Said he thought this war was all the fault of Germany – that England would beat Germany on the sea – that Germany would beat France on land and that Russia would eventually beat Germany and Austria for she was the only great nation that raised all her own food. –

Dr. G took us to a quiet restaurant where he goes and Helen and I sat out of doors and had a quiet dinner. Then we sat awhile and I tried to read an Italian newspaper. Then we walked about and at nine sat in front of the caffé Biffe and listened to the music for an hour and had an ice. Met the Misses Betham coming back – we chatted for a while upstairs. We are to have dinner with them tomorrow.

Verona to Milan

Got up at 6. Finished packing – had b’fast at 7.15. We got off at 7.40 and rode to station. We had seats by the window 3rd class. There were two sailors from the Lake of Garda near us. I got talking with them and one of them showed me his wife and babies’ pictures. I had a great time trying to tell them how we ate corn ??? in America.

We had several different traveling companions on our way to Milan which we reached about 12.20. Left our things in deposits and started in a tram for Cooks’ – no letters there, then went and got a simple lunch - 25 cts. a piece in a 3rd class place, but we have to be economical.

Then looked up the first pension given in Baedeker. Miss Betham Via Brera 5. They had closed their pension and were going away when the war broke out – now they don’t know what to do. At first they – two sisters – said they couldn’t take us, but finally said they could for 3 fr. 1 ½ apiece room and caffé latté in the morning – we didn’t decide to take them and went to the consul where Helen got a certificate of citizenship.

The consul had just arrived from America. He said not to be afraid and to get what pleasure you could and no need yet for people to go home. An Italian company is sending vessels back and asking $100 for steerage. A battleship has sailed from U.S. with $2,000,000 in gold for Americans.

Then we posted two postals to Florence in Firenze and went to Bella Venezia hotel where they wanted 11 frs. a day for pension –so then we came back to Via Brera 5, took the rooms and left our things there. Then went to station on tram and got our things and Helen rode back with them. She wanted me to, but I felt tired and cross and wouldn’t. Found Helen here when I got in. I was so dead tired and my back ached so I went right to bed. Helen came in and heated the milk and I had hot bread, milk for supper. Helen had malted milk, rolls and peaches. I slept very well indeed.

Visiting churches in Verona

Slept very well – did not wake up till 8.30. We were very lazy and had breakfast before we dressed – then dressed slowly. It was 11.30 before we started out.

We went to the P.O. first and got our last Daily Mail – July 31st. Then took a train to St. Zeno Piazza – we went into the church* which was closed but I lent the sacristan the morning paper and we glanced around the church. It was very interesting and I studied it out with Baedecker, but I’ve forgotten already what it looked like. The old doors with old bronze reliefs were most interesting and so were the two lions that supported the front pillars of the portico.

Then we went outside the city gate near by and saw the old fortifications and the dried up moat. Then we took a train and went to Piazza San Trino way the other end of the line. It was a beautiful ride and all for two cents. Then we came back as far as our street the “four ??” “Quattro spade” and got home about two.

Then Helen and I got lunch – eggs and peaches and hot milk for me and malted milk for Helen. Then we took a nap and at 5.30 started out again – we went to the Duomo and across the old Roman bridge Pietra and to see the remnants of the Roman theatre and to San Giorgio [in] Braida and then came back to the hotel where I saw the proprietors and paid our bill in full.

Then we had dinner at 8 P.M. and came up to pack our things.

I cannot find out much about the conditions of the war. It seems that one of the Vanderbilts is here and has chartered a steamer and takes back 440 Americans among them Pres. Buller [Butler] of Columbia Univ**. The boat sails the 12th.

*Basilica di San Zeno **Nicolas Murray Butler, President of Columbia University, 1901-1945.

Visit to opera and sightseeing in Verona. News that Lieges is taken

We all had b’fast in the large bedroom and at 9.30 Florence left for Florence. Helen went to the P.O., found a letter from Thos. Cook & Son, Milan saying the missing trunks were there so she took it right to the station to show Florence.

Then Helen and I went out to walk. We went to San Maggiore and around by the Duomo and by the Amphitheatre house. We had lunch in our own room – mine was hot-bread and milk. I did not feel at all well and I slipped on the polished tiling and fell.

We lay down and had a good rest and about five went out to walk again. We bought tickets for the opera tonight in the amphitheatre and took a car ride to Porta Santa Nuova and back. Dinner was late. Then we came upstairs and got our thick things.

I went to the opera.* Helen took her steamer rug and we sat on the broad stone seats and watched the opera. It was wonderful and I enjoyed it very much and would have more if I had not been so sleepy. The stage was so large it made a splendid setting and the moon rose and shone over all. There were a great many in the lire seats. There were a great many performers and the orchestra was good. It was over at 12.07 – we went home after waiting till the greater part of the crowd had gone.

It was 1.30 before we got to bed. I hear that Lieges is taken by the Germans.

*Carmen

Peaches in Verona and more war news

We had b’fast together. Helen boiled eggs and we had cut up peaches. Then we all went out to see something of the town.

We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.

She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.

F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.

Venice to Verona

Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.

It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.

A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.

They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.

Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.

We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.

Money from home; Senate sends ships for Americans

Got started late this morning for I stopped to write 3 postals. Rec’d a registered letter from Alfred, forward by registered mail from the mail clerk at French Lemon. Also a postal from Margaret saying that Duncan is better and a wild appeal from Florence Humphrey from Verona begging me to write to her re. and she never addressed it to me but only to French Lemon & Co. No wonder she loses mail.

Alfred sent me $165 – $50 from Aunt Marion, $45 – P.W. Co and $65 from him. Wrote F.T.H. telling her again where I was – to Alfred ach. {knowledging] money and to French Lemon ach. [knowledging] letter and the one addressed postal. Mailed them myself at branch P.O.

Then went to public library – saw some handsome illuminated books, bought a few Venetian beads. Then came home. After lunch about 8 [sic] I started out to go to Murano, walked from the Rialto bridge across the city to the water front. Those queer narrow streets and little squares were most interesting.

Took the boat to Murano – a short pretty ride. Went to two churches and the museum, but thought my trip was a failure. Walked back to the Rialto. Very tired. A lady came to see me who had seen Florence in Verona this a.m. Said F. had not heard and was afraid I had gone on to Munich without any money. They all went to the opera last night however.

War news seems to be quieting down. Consul wants every American to come for registration papers. Heard that the Senate had voted to send over ships for stranded Americans so perhaps I will have to go home willy nilly.

More war news and sightseeing

Feel very tired this morning as is very apt to be the case. Received postal from Florence. She was in the train to Bozen* with many soldiers. An Austrian officer advised her to go back to Italy at once, so she and Helen are going to Verona and want me to join them. I wrote a card to her and to Alfred and finished letter to Margaret and went to post office to mail them. They said mail was going to America – went over the central part of the Rialto bridge – very interesting.

Bought some of the cheap printed goods that the people wear. Tried to come home through the Merceria** but came somehow made a wrong turn and had to inquire and inquire, but finally reached S. Marco and then walked to the ferry and then home.

Bought two Italian papers and came home and tried to read the war news with my dictionary. Young Mr. Conte says that Austria is making war in Servia – that Russia has declared war against Germany and Germany against France – that England will be drawn into it as the ally of Russia and France but that Italy will remain neutral. Lay down and fell asleep.

Then studied Baedecker and decided to cross the ferry and walk over to the church of San Giovanni il Paolo.*** I did and enjoyed the walk immensely – enjoyed the church too – then came back by way of the Rialto bridge – going through all sorts of queer little narrow “calles” or streets and campo. Took the Vaporetto.****

12 new people came today. Everyone is talking about the war and everyone wants to get back to U.S. Listened to the talk awhile, then came up and tried to read some more of the Italian paper. Do not like this pension. It is second class.

*Before World War 1, Bozen was part of the Austro-Hungarian county of Tyrol. It was annexed by Italy at the end of the World War 1.
**Merceria is the main shopping street of Venice. It begins near the Rialto Bridge as a small square and goes to St Mark's Square.
***San Giovanni e Paolo
****Water-bus

Americans trying to get passage home

I went to the Museo Civico and spent a most interesting morning in looking over the collections. The guards are all old men and before I got back I had given something to a lot of them, not because they had done anything, but simply because they were old.

I was fifty minutes getting home, and so was very late, 1.40, when I sat down to lunch. Heard that the American consul had sent word to all pensions and hotels requesting all Americans to register – so two of us went around to do so - found the office full of frightened Americans – most of them people who had passage taken on some ship for this morning.

German ships have cancelled sailings and it is impossible to get to France or England to take passage from those countries. Consul advised us not to try to leave Italy as Italy was neutral and safe. Said I couldn’t get into Austria if I tried.

Came back to pension and went to Pension Gregori after mail. Said he had forwarded a postal to me. Then to Am. Exp. Co. - no letters.

Had an ice and listened to the music in the Piazzetta – came home. Found everyone wild with excitement. 500 Americans are trying to charter a steamer to take them home - $100 apiece. I listened to them reading war news. Read Cosmopolitan magazine to quiet my mind before going to bed. Some Italians in a wine shop near here argued so long and fiercely that I couldn’t get to sleep. They did the same thing last night.

Sightseeing and declaration of war by Germany

Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.

Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.

After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.

Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.

Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.

Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.

Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.

*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.

New lodgings in Venice

Had a profuse perspiration in the night and woke up without pain, but weak. Had breakfast in bed – got up about eleven and dressed – but did not go out. Intended to go to station with the Oudesluys – but all four were going in one gondola so I said goodbye at the house.

Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.

Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.

The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.

Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.

I am going to bed, tired but happy.

Fever and toothache -- resting in bed

I had another bad night and had indigestion beside so I had to get up and have a peppermint patty. Towards morning, the pain became less, but I have a big swelling on the side of the roof of my mouth – spent most of the morning dozing. I made up my mind I wouldn’t go tomorrow with the O’s but when I found my temp was 100 ½ (It dropped to 99 ½ this morning) decided I must get out of bed so I began to pick up my things.

The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.

*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."

Toothache, infection, and fever

I had a dreadful night – up and down all night, but I did get a few short naps. Had my meals in bed – principally soup or hot milk as my mouth is so sore I can’t chew and my throat is sore so I can hardly swallow.

The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.

I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.

Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.

Visiting San Marco; toothache

I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.

Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.

My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.

* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.

Art galleries, mail, and bath-houses

Could not sleep so got up at 3.30 and had a peppermint patty, and wrote a note to F.B. H. who has left Pellegrino and is on her way to Cortina to meet us. My letter is to catch her at Riva. I went to the Rialto to mail it and some postcards to Marion for bridge cards.

The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.

Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.

Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.

After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.

Post cards, errands, and Grand Canal tour by gondola

I wrote till after midnight before I finished my letter to Percy about the furniture. This morning I read it over and added another note and sent him some seeds – zucchini and blue morning glory. I also sent Percy’s letter to Margaret – so that she could understand the whole affair. It took me till nearly eleven before I could get my things ready to post.

Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.

Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.

I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.

I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.

I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.

Sunday services in Venice

Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.

Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.

Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.

After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.

It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.

Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.

We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.

Art exposition: Venice Biennale

Slept pretty well, nevertheless, I was awfully tired when I got up. I had breakfast at 8:45 in the dining room with the O’s and a little before ten we were ready to go out.

We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.

The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.

Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.

We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.

After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.

I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.

*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.

First morning in Venice

It was the first morning in the pension and we had b’fast in our rooms, so we three had b’fast in Mrs. Oudesluy’s room.

Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.

We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.

After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.

Arrived at the Gregory in Venice

Got up at 6 and worked hard at my packing till 8 when Maria came in with my b’fast followed by Signora with my lunch and the bill. I had a great time in sorting out the things to take and the things to leave.

About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.

Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.

Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.

Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.

Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.

I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.

*porters

Errands in Florence before traveling to Venice

Got up at 7 – wrote to Uncle Hugh enclosing F.T.H.’s last two letters and to Helen, sending her two letters that came from America – also wrapped up packet of postal cards re re – Got off at 10 with Mrs. Tanner.

Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.

After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.

Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.

Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.

Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.

French lessons at the Dogana and at Palazzo Vecchio

Wrote on my letter to Florence S. till 8 o’clock when I had b’fast – did my usual little washing and a little mending and at a little [before/after] 10, started off for the dogana or Custom House. Went away down to the Duomo and took train no. 19 and had a pleasant ride around the city and finally come to the dogana and had a curious interview with the official. He opened the box – looked at the white suit that I bought in San Jose 4 years ago – declared positively that it was new – and that I had paid what was right in duties. I showed him the bottom of the skirt and protested that it was old, antiquated, ancient, – then he pulled it around – finally said it was old and that I would get my money back in October. All this was in French – ye gods and little fishes.

Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.

*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.

Riding on the Arno

Duncan’s birthday*. I wonder what he is doing! Got up early and wrote on my letter to F.T.S.** before breakfast. Then washed out a couple of pieces and wrote a note to Signorina Carli and one to Mrs. Oudesluys – tied up Baedeker to send to F.B.H.***– and the catalogue of Pitti palace to send Sig. Carli. Started out at 11 – went to P.O. and sent off books, catalogue, re. Then inquired about any packages. It is the box with my dresses – duty 6.32 Frs. And they are to send the box to the customhouse tomorrow and I am to go there to explain and probably they will remit the duty as the clothes have been used. Robas usatas. Bought my new Italian grammar and went to Am. Ex. Co. They will take my trunk to Munich for 12 Frs. $2.40.

After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.

*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.

Four Churches but No Service

Awoke before 7 – had breakfast at 7:20 so as to try to go somewhere before church. I went to the Museo of San Marco and found it beautiful and most interesting. I saw famous pictures and frescoes of the cell where Savonarola lived when he was preaching his famous sermons.

Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.

Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.

At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.

Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.

Back in Florence

Studied Italian as usual at breakfast-time. I find I am improving though I do not give much time to it. Washed out my two waists and arranged with Maria to wash the two pink woollies.
I went to the Pitti Palace and looked at the pictures and enjoyed doing so very much. The rooms were magnificent in themselves.

I was late to lunch.
Ate fruit afterwards – three apricots – crackers and jam – and had a nap of 1 ½ hours. Then I went to the store that Helen showed me and took my waist to have a new collar for which she is to charge me a lira – and ordered two crepe night dresses that I can wash myself.
Went afterwards into the Santa Croce Church.
Tried to write to Margaret but I was too tired
I received a notice that my dress is at the post office.
I love to hear the little pleasure boat go up and down the Arno with the lights, the song and the people.

Errands back in Florence

Woke at 4 – and got up at 5 – dressed and went upstairs and took Helen by surprise. Helped her get ready and went to the station and helped about her trunk. She was in an apartment for ladies and there were three who spoke English and she had the window seat. Saw the rain start – Walked home – Cooked my strawberries and had b’fast. Then had a grand wash of Harriet, Susan, June, and Rebecca. Also some small pieces and my waist. Mended a little, worked all the morning. After lunch, borrowed Mrs. Hubbell’s alcohol iron* and ironed my waist, then took a nap.

Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me to come up to tea to meet a Mr. Pecker from California, but I thought I wouldn’t. Dressed and went out after my ring and spoon that I left to be marked. Went to a tobacco shop where I bought stamps, soap, starch, matches and candy – all for a franc. Walked around by the flower market and came home.

Spent the evening in Mrs. Hubbell’s room, showing her my postals and my marble bowl and leather card case. I wrote postals to John, Baby Florence, Marjorie and Constance Nice and Duncan, also one to Alfred.**

*There was a German patent in 1897 for such an iron which had a small container of alcohol fitted on to it to fuel it.
**Her grandchildren are John [Hincks], Baby Florence [Morse], Duncan [Morse]. Marjorie and Constance Nice are Margaret Morse Nice’s children and Alfred [Morse], Jennie’s son.

Suffrage Convention in MA.

Slept pretty well. Put in an hour’s hard work on Italian “verbi.” Find it pays.

About 10 o’clock, went out to do errands with Helen. – She bought her ticket for San Pellegrino for tomorrow and did several errands for Florence. I went to Am. Ex. and found my dresses had not come and would probably not be here till August as it takes two months for packages to come through. Came home for lunch and had a nap. Then went out to do the last errands. Left my ring at Settipurse’s to have the claw fixed and my spoon to be marked. Bought some little strawberries which were half bad as I saw afterwards.
After dinner, sat in the drawing room with the Hubbells and heard Miss Ida sing. She has a very sweet voice – then read my letters –or parts of them to Helen while she packed. I had letters from Percy and Margaret and had to pay 10 centimes for a postal that she forgot to put an extra cent on. I was much amused to read that the Wm. Morse’s turned out en masse to inaugurate the new Suffrage Convention in Amherst. Margaret and Katherine rode on a float to represent two of the ten states that have given votes to women – Margey was to have gone with them, but couldn’t at the last moment. Will drove the auto with Mrs. Morse and three other ladies, also Duncan and Constance* all dressed in white with yellow trimmings, white parasols with yellow bows. Will wore white with yellow tie and hat band. FINE

Margaret feels very keenly about the unfortunate situation in California between the Percy Hincks and the Sanfords. The furniture trouble is only a symptom. I am going to do the best I can to bring them together again in harmony. The Sat. Eve. Posts came from Alfred and from Hazel. **

*Wm. Morse was the husband of her daughter, Margaret. Katherine Duncan Morse was William’s sister as was Margey, [Margaret Morse Nice], who was the mother of Constance. Duncan, age 5, was Margaret’s and Will’s son.
**The Sanfords are Florence, [Jennie's daughter], and husband, Thomas Sanford. Possibly the furniture business is about the disbursal of Jennie’s furniture.

Siena To San Gimignano to Florence, Italy

Awoke at 5 – up at 6 – breakfast at 7 – left the house at 7:20 and in train at 7:30. Signora came up to say goodbye –“as she had to go to market and couldn’t wait. “ I left house five minutes later.

Got out at Poggibonsi* and found automobile, also crowd of small boys – so waited in salon II classe until nearly time to start. Had front seat. We went like the wind and shaved the corners and the carts. It was a hair-raising ride – Country was beautiful and wild flowers also but not numerous. Automobile stopped at gate of San Gimignano so walked up to the Hotel Leon Blanco and asked for F.B.H’s friends, the McLaughlan. Found Mrs. MacL. had left but Il signne was there.

Went to the Duomo and saw the famous Chapel of Santa Fina and all the frescoes and then to the Museo in the old Palazzo Popolo. The guard was fine and took me everywhere and talked Italian so that I felt I had rec’d a lesson and tipped him a franc.

Then went to lunch of omelet and café latte and saw the Shaws there. The First Cousins - married pair, English people at the Flora – also saw in the distance Mr. MacL, asked to speak to him – I saw the little waitress tell him and saw him look at me as he passed and after lunch he sent out to know my name. Said I was sister of F.B.H. He came at once and was very nice. Took me to salon where he had coffee and a cigar and then the Shaws came in and I introduced them and we all talked an hour. Then he took me back to the Duomo where I went into La Capella di Santa Fina and saw the two curtained frescoes and thence to the church of Sant’Agostino where I saw everything.

Bought two lire of postal cards, went back to hotel, saw Mr. MacL who walked with me to the automobile. It was filled with men who gave me the inside middle seat. Got train all right and had to change at Empoli. Saw Mrs. Morse traveling 3rd class to Milan. Saw Helen on street with a big bunch of asters for me. Saw the Hubbells and Miss Hamm, all very pleasant. Sat in the parlor after dinner with the Hubbells and Helen and watched a young fellow from Buenos Aires do all manner of parlor magic tricks. He was very nice and a young Italian doctor was there. Talked to Helen afterwards and got to bed at midnight.

*Poggibonsi is an ancient town between Siena and Florence.