Helen came down to my room at 5 but I was so tired I asked her to wait till 5.30. Dressed. Helen did up my steamer rug roll - and Florence my hats. Left about 6.40. Found Mrs. Zupponi at station. Went 3rd class – not very pleasant to Rome, but all right afterwards. Got into a corridor carriage. Ticket agent forgot to stamp date of departure from Florence and I had a great fuss with the conductor from Rome which half-spoiled my ride. He wanted me to pay 7 lire more and I wouldn’t. He got someone who looked like a Russian Jew to explain and I hunted up an Italian gentleman who spoke English. Finally they let the ticket pass by writing the necessary date re. It formed the chief topic of conversation in the compartment. A father and know-all son, nice young man, young Italian girl with 2 year old baby were the other occupants. Lost my hat pin.
Met a young woman at station in Naples and rode up to the Hotel Muller** with her. Her name is Miss Florence Wolff and she has been over 4 years next November and not only wears a chip on her shoulder, but they stick out all over her. We had a quarrel about the cab fare with the hotel clerk and she nearly fought with me over my share of that expense. Had dinner at 7.30 – only six people – a baby and a dog besides my self – a good room and a small glimpse of the sea. Very tired. Went to bed before ten.
*Alfred Winslow Hincks, her son, born September 5, 1880.
**Today there is a Hotel Muller at Via Sant'alessio 16 in Naples.
Saturday, September 5
Friday, September 4
More War News and More Shopping
A very busy day beginning at 5.45. The little milliner came at 8.45 with shapes for me to wear – also samples of velvet. Chose a shape and ordered the best black velvet – all at cost of 30 francs for the hat. It was brought this evening and is very pretty. Then I went out and bought some bread and cake for tomorrow’s lunch. Naomi sent back Marion’s lace, beautifully done. Mrs. Zupponi came and went to the bank with me and I drew $50 and deposited $200.
Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.
After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.
Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.
Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.
*Academia di Belle Arti
Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.
After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.
Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.
Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.
*Academia di Belle Arti
Thursday, September 3
New Pope, Packing, Lace Shopping, and Sailing on the Arno
Spent the entire morning packing my trunk. I am going down on Saturday with the four trunks and Florence and Helen will remain here to see Mr. Smith settled here. Mrs. Addison called this morning.
After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.
After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.
A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.
After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.
After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.
A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.
Wednesday, September 2
Money Found, Shopping and Helping Starving Artist
Mrs. Zupponi came this morning and said she knew where my money was, that it was in the Credito Italiano – that she had been there the day before and they admitted it was there, but would do nothing till they had seen me. That it had been sent to Milano thinking I was there and it was not to be returned to Florence before I could get it or I could have it sent back to America. From there I went to Bargello and took a guide who explained everything to me and I spent 1 ¾ hours there most usefully and pleasantly.
After lunch lay down awhile and tried to find the store where my night gowns were made at 10 Via de’ Benci. They had not reopened. Then we went over to the Fallon’s and had my suit tried on – it fits well. Florence came in to have her clothes tried on and Helen and I left. We were going to the Femminile to try to get lace cuffs to match collar – went into store to see about dictionary when I ran into Mr. Smith, the artist who lived at Mrs. Grassini’s. He was looking pale and thin and said he was going to Rome. I told him Florence knew a nice pension which was cheap and we started out to Carelia’s the tailor’s to find her. She had left and we chased her to the library. She invited him to dinner, but had to go back to the tailor’s, so I took him along with me. He is having a hard time. His money has not come and he has not paid at Fiesole for 4 weeks. They do not give them enough to eat, so he is always buying some extra to eat. He owned up he only had a lira in his pocket book. It seemed that the doctor* had a check of more than enough to pay the board – so that could be cancelled.
We went into the showrooms of the Signa factory and wandered through them admiring everything. Then we came home and Mr. Smith played on the piano while I smoothed my hair re. When Florence came, I consulted her about lending him some money. It was decided to do it, but he wouldn’t take it. We had a jolly dinner with the Braggs and C. Then we were going to the Piazza Emmanuelle to see the crowds, but we got talking downstairs. We forced 150 francs on him and made him promise to come to the Crocini to live. He is coming Sunday and we are to wait for him. He left about 10. I hope he will come for I feel worried about him.
The war news is terrible. Germany seems to be winning on every side.
*Dr. Sterling Barrows. Mrs. Addison’s cousin.
After lunch lay down awhile and tried to find the store where my night gowns were made at 10 Via de’ Benci. They had not reopened. Then we went over to the Fallon’s and had my suit tried on – it fits well. Florence came in to have her clothes tried on and Helen and I left. We were going to the Femminile to try to get lace cuffs to match collar – went into store to see about dictionary when I ran into Mr. Smith, the artist who lived at Mrs. Grassini’s. He was looking pale and thin and said he was going to Rome. I told him Florence knew a nice pension which was cheap and we started out to Carelia’s the tailor’s to find her. She had left and we chased her to the library. She invited him to dinner, but had to go back to the tailor’s, so I took him along with me. He is having a hard time. His money has not come and he has not paid at Fiesole for 4 weeks. They do not give them enough to eat, so he is always buying some extra to eat. He owned up he only had a lira in his pocket book. It seemed that the doctor* had a check of more than enough to pay the board – so that could be cancelled.
We went into the showrooms of the Signa factory and wandered through them admiring everything. Then we came home and Mr. Smith played on the piano while I smoothed my hair re. When Florence came, I consulted her about lending him some money. It was decided to do it, but he wouldn’t take it. We had a jolly dinner with the Braggs and C. Then we were going to the Piazza Emmanuelle to see the crowds, but we got talking downstairs. We forced 150 francs on him and made him promise to come to the Crocini to live. He is coming Sunday and we are to wait for him. He left about 10. I hope he will come for I feel worried about him.
The war news is terrible. Germany seems to be winning on every side.
*Dr. Sterling Barrows. Mrs. Addison’s cousin.
Tuesday, September 1
Shopping and Searching for Money
Something I ate disagreed with me and I have felt badly all day. The dressmaker came and tried on my dress. It is very pretty and I like it very much. Gave her the stuff to make a cover for my rug. F.B.H. thought she had left her keys at the Montebello so she went there – later found them under her bed. Mrs. Zupponi came and we went to French, Lemon & Co. Could get no satisfaction about my check – they said they knew nothing about it. No news at the Consul’s. Then met F.B.H. at Cook’s and went to bank Credito Italiano where it was arranged to pay tailor and Dr. Giglioli and the balance sent to North America later on. Then we went through the showrooms of the Signa terracotta.* It is wonderful what they can do. We went to Banca d’Italia and Florence drew out 500 lire – her money from Washington – but no trace of my money. Mrs. Zupponi is coming here tomorrow to take tea.
Florence fortunately remembered the name of the manager of French Lemon and Co. – a Mr. Ayres. She used to know him as he and his wife were friends of Rose Clark. I went to F.L. & Co. but Mr. A. was out, so went home and came again at 3. He said he knew nothing about it and could find no trace of it – said it was safe and the money would be returned to Percy where he mailed it. It is in Italy but they had no word from any bank. Came back at 5. F.B.H. And I went to tailor’s to have suits tried on. They were all right – went around to see about a waist for Florence to go with her new suit. Then to Settipasse’s where I am to have my lava head set for $7 – then on to Pia’s house where they tried on my two waists and can alter them all right. Then home. Florence found she had left her purse at Pia’s with 17 francs in it. I had toast and milk for lunch – soup and toast for supper – felt better.
The Germans are not in Paris yet. They are acting like savages.
*Manifattura Di Signa produced copies of antiquities and renaissance models in terracotta from the late 19th Century. The company had outlets in Florence, Rome and Turin and catered for wealthy patrons doing the Grand Tour of Italy.
Florence fortunately remembered the name of the manager of French Lemon and Co. – a Mr. Ayres. She used to know him as he and his wife were friends of Rose Clark. I went to F.L. & Co. but Mr. A. was out, so went home and came again at 3. He said he knew nothing about it and could find no trace of it – said it was safe and the money would be returned to Percy where he mailed it. It is in Italy but they had no word from any bank. Came back at 5. F.B.H. And I went to tailor’s to have suits tried on. They were all right – went around to see about a waist for Florence to go with her new suit. Then to Settipasse’s where I am to have my lava head set for $7 – then on to Pia’s house where they tried on my two waists and can alter them all right. Then home. Florence found she had left her purse at Pia’s with 17 francs in it. I had toast and milk for lunch – soup and toast for supper – felt better.
The Germans are not in Paris yet. They are acting like savages.
*Manifattura Di Signa produced copies of antiquities and renaissance models in terracotta from the late 19th Century. The company had outlets in Florence, Rome and Turin and catered for wealthy patrons doing the Grand Tour of Italy.
Monday, August 31
War News, Conclave, Errands, Getting Ready,
The Conclave for electing the new Pope begins today – and the Re’d Italia sails for America. I slept very well but am tired from my walk of yesterday.
Florence B. H. is very weak from her illness and has nearly fainted several times – nevertheless, she did a lot of packing. Mme. Zupponi came to see her this morning. I went to Am. Consul’s and found both the Sant Anna and Oceana had cancelled sailing – the latter I was told because they asked too much. No one knew whether the Canopia would sail so I did not send cable.
Went to tailor’s and watched Helen and F. get fitted while I read two Eng. papers I had bought. Then we chose a blue serge for me. F.B.H. said I looked cross and ugly and as if I could eat her up. I guess I did. She got on my nerves – came back to lunch and then I went out again with Helen and sent cable to Margaret – William Morse, Amherst, Massachusetts.
Together, safe – sail Canopic Hincks – 8 words cost $2.50. Then changed F’s dictionary for a better one. Left M’s* lace to be cleaned. Went to Italian chemist and got a prescription filled for F.B.H. went to Settipassi about lava cameo that John** gave me – and came home. Lay down and slept a while before dinner. Little girl came and brought two waists that Pia made – sleeves too short.
Germans within 80 kilometers of Paris. This war is terrible.
Had a letter from Mrs. Oudesluys from Cortina. She seems to have no idea of the situation and I haven’t much myself.
*Maybe a gift for her daughter Margaret or sister Marion.
**Probably John Howard Hincks, her late husband.
Florence B. H. is very weak from her illness and has nearly fainted several times – nevertheless, she did a lot of packing. Mme. Zupponi came to see her this morning. I went to Am. Consul’s and found both the Sant Anna and Oceana had cancelled sailing – the latter I was told because they asked too much. No one knew whether the Canopia would sail so I did not send cable.
Went to tailor’s and watched Helen and F. get fitted while I read two Eng. papers I had bought. Then we chose a blue serge for me. F.B.H. said I looked cross and ugly and as if I could eat her up. I guess I did. She got on my nerves – came back to lunch and then I went out again with Helen and sent cable to Margaret – William Morse, Amherst, Massachusetts.
Together, safe – sail Canopic Hincks – 8 words cost $2.50. Then changed F’s dictionary for a better one. Left M’s* lace to be cleaned. Went to Italian chemist and got a prescription filled for F.B.H. went to Settipassi about lava cameo that John** gave me – and came home. Lay down and slept a while before dinner. Little girl came and brought two waists that Pia made – sleeves too short.
Germans within 80 kilometers of Paris. This war is terrible.
Had a letter from Mrs. Oudesluys from Cortina. She seems to have no idea of the situation and I haven’t much myself.
*Maybe a gift for her daughter Margaret or sister Marion.
**Probably John Howard Hincks, her late husband.
Sunday, August 30
Tram Ride in Florence, War News,
I slept very badly – so did not get up until 8.45 and had b’fast in my room. F.B.H. is much better. Syringed out both ears with Helen’s help. Wrote card to Penelope. Tired and very lazy – hooked over letters re.
Helen and I went out about four. We went to the end of the No. 13 tram that goes to Poggio Reale, past the Piazza Michel Angelo and then walked all the way home – a beautiful walk. We stopped at the Piazza Michel Angelo and had some ice cream – which Helen paid for. I bought some flowers for Florence off a little boy.
We spent the evening chatting and comparing the merits of California and of Italy.
It is said that England has sunk their cruisers and a torpedo boat destroyer off Heligoland.* I am tremendously sorry for the men, but I hope Germany will be beaten and that William will lose his crown – Old Wretch.
It sprinkled and threatened rain all day.
*Heligoland is located 70 km (44 miles) off the German coastline and consists of two islands:
Helen and I went out about four. We went to the end of the No. 13 tram that goes to Poggio Reale, past the Piazza Michel Angelo and then walked all the way home – a beautiful walk. We stopped at the Piazza Michel Angelo and had some ice cream – which Helen paid for. I bought some flowers for Florence off a little boy.
We spent the evening chatting and comparing the merits of California and of Italy.
It is said that England has sunk their cruisers and a torpedo boat destroyer off Heligoland.* I am tremendously sorry for the men, but I hope Germany will be beaten and that William will lose his crown – Old Wretch.
It sprinkled and threatened rain all day.
*Heligoland is located 70 km (44 miles) off the German coastline and consists of two islands:
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