Slept pretty well, nevertheless, I was awfully tired when I got up. I had breakfast at 8:45 in the dining room with the O’s and a little before ten we were ready to go out.
We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.
The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.
Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.
We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.
After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.
I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.
*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.
Saturday, July 25
Friday, July 24
First morning in Venice
It was the first morning in the pension and we had b’fast in our rooms, so we three had b’fast in Mrs. Oudesluy’s room.
Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.
We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.
After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.
Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.
We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.
After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.
Thursday, July 23
Arrived at the Gregory in Venice
Got up at 6 and worked hard at my packing till 8 when Maria came in with my b’fast followed by Signora with my lunch and the bill. I had a great time in sorting out the things to take and the things to leave.
About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.
Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.
Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.
Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.
Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.
I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.
*porters
About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.
Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.
Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.
Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.
Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.
I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.
*porters
Wednesday, July 22
Errands in Florence before traveling to Venice
Got up at 7 – wrote to Uncle Hugh enclosing F.T.H.’s last two letters and to Helen, sending her two letters that came from America – also wrapped up packet of postal cards re re – Got off at 10 with Mrs. Tanner.
Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.
After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.
Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.
Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.
Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.
After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.
Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.
Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.
Tuesday, July 21
French lessons at the Dogana and at Palazzo Vecchio
Wrote on my letter to Florence S. till 8 o’clock when I had b’fast – did my usual little washing and a little mending and at a little [before/after] 10, started off for the dogana or Custom House. Went away down to the Duomo and took train no. 19 and had a pleasant ride around the city and finally come to the dogana and had a curious interview with the official. He opened the box – looked at the white suit that I bought in San Jose 4 years ago – declared positively that it was new – and that I had paid what was right in duties. I showed him the bottom of the skirt and protested that it was old, antiquated, ancient, – then he pulled it around – finally said it was old and that I would get my money back in October. All this was in French – ye gods and little fishes.
Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.
*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.
Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.
*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.
Monday, July 20
Riding on the Arno
Duncan’s birthday*. I wonder what he is doing! Got up early and wrote on my letter to F.T.S.** before breakfast. Then washed out a couple of pieces and wrote a note to Signorina Carli and one to Mrs. Oudesluys – tied up Baedeker to send to F.B.H.***– and the catalogue of Pitti palace to send Sig. Carli. Started out at 11 – went to P.O. and sent off books, catalogue, re. Then inquired about any packages. It is the box with my dresses – duty 6.32 Frs. And they are to send the box to the customhouse tomorrow and I am to go there to explain and probably they will remit the duty as the clothes have been used. Robas usatas. Bought my new Italian grammar and went to Am. Ex. Co. They will take my trunk to Munich for 12 Frs. $2.40.
After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.
*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.
After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.
*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.
Sunday, July 19
Four Churches but No Service
Awoke before 7 – had breakfast at 7:20 so as to try to go somewhere before church. I went to the Museo of San Marco and found it beautiful and most interesting. I saw famous pictures and frescoes of the cell where Savonarola lived when he was preaching his famous sermons.
Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.
Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.
At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.
Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.
Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.
Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.
At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.
Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.
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