Italian lesson, Doctors' Visits, and San Lorenzo

I read Margaret's dear letter over before breakfast and then studied the Italian as usual. It seems as if I could never get the pronunciation.

I went in to assure Helen that I was ready when the doctor came – then came back to pick up my room. At eleven I went in with the new sack that Helen had given me to crochet – that was half-finished and waited until he came. He gave her a thorough examination and said there was nothing organically wrong but that she needed building up and rest and gave a tonic re and Sanotogen.*

Helen came to lunch. Afterwards we went to Dr. Giglioli’s** where I met Florence. There were several ahead of her – finally we walked to the Bargello and were amazed to be told that there were only ten minutes before the closing hour – so we went to San Lorenzo and saw the tombs of the Medici. The inlaid arms of the different cities of Tuscany in marble mosaic were wonderfully beautiful.



We stayed in the chapels and church till nearly six and then went down to the Duomo – where Florence caught the car for Le Lune. I walked back and bought some blue cornflowers for Helen and myself.

I wrote a note to the new pension Flora in Siena***wishing to go there next Friday at 6 frs. And posted it before dinner. Mr. Agnew – a young architect from Duluth – came and stayed an hour in Helen’s room chatting. He is very nice. I told him about Dr. Grazzini’s place. I went to my room to write, but came in and I was tired and just read a paper and went to bed.

*Sanotogen was made as a tonic wine or a protein supplement.
**The 1913 Baedecker mentions a Dr. Giglioli in Florence, Via Ferruccio 5 (speaks English);
***Probably located at Passeggio della Lizza 5

Counselling Helen, Going to the Movies and Italian Lesson

I had an egg and honey for breakfast and felt better all day. Had some little trouble about getting my hot water but finally got dressed by ten.

Helen came in, and she looked blue and depressed. I was going to finish a letter I had begun to Percy, but I invited her in to my room – and we talked and talked and talked. She really wants to stay abroad, but she said she was afraid of being a burden and of being of a party and not in it re re which shows really a disturbed state of mind. We talked until lunch. She has decided to see Dr. Giglioli and will not go home until autumn. That much is settled. The doctor is coming tomorrow at eleven.

After lunch we sat in the parlor talking to the two English ladies when Mlle. Bianca Carli came in. I had a lesson in la pronunzia and after that Mrs. Moore took one – Helen was too upset to take a lesson.

We went to the Duomo and walked around but it was too late to see much – so we went into the Edison moving picture show* and saw a thriller and came back in time for dinner.

Then went and made a call on Miss Kinney in her room. She is very nice indeed and is a great friend of Miss Post and of Miss McFadden. Meant to stay half an hour and stayed two.

I found a delightful letter from Margaret on my table. She has sent my dresses.

I went for the print from the film Pen took of me in the steamer and found it was very good so I ordered 6 more. Gave that one to Helen.

*In the city center, in piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the first cinema in Florence -- and perhaps even in Italy -- had been active since 1901: Cinema Edison, opened by Filoteo Alberini. source

Visiting Fiesole, the Benedictine Abbey, and the Church of San Alessandro

A beautiful day. Had b’fast in bed. Helen went on a picnic to see a tree 400 years old with the two English ladies, Mrs. Wilde and Mrs. Moore.

I left the house at 9:50 and walked to the Duomo and took the 10:20 car for Fiesole - Florence got on the same car - and we went way to the end. Then we took a ride around for 45 minutes to see the views and walked up to the stone seat – real - looking at the view until time to go to Dr Grazzini’s. We got there at 12:30 but did not have lunch till almost two. Sgna. Grazzini is very sweet and pretty and the Dr. is very nice, a very pretty daughter of 19 and a son of 21 - then two boarders- two young artists. Mr. Smidl – an American is very jolly – I tried my French on them and we had a nice time. They are very charming people. They showed us all around the house and garden.

Then we went to the monastery [Convent of San Francesco] and a monk showed us the church – the garden and the cells – very small. St. Benedict lived in one of them.


Then we went into the church of San Alessandro* – an old Roman temple. Then we sat on the stone bench a long time and talked and finally came down the hill and took the car – Florence got out at Le Lune and I at the Duomo and walked home. Florence paid for the drive and all the fees – I talked over plans with her and I told her about Alfred, [Alfred wants Jennie to travel more] – I am going to Siena next week with Helen to the Pallis – to be gone two weeks.

After dinner tonight the two English ladies to play Sequence. They caught on very quickly. Went into see Mrs. Hubbell a few minutes. Waited up to ask Herbert Houghton the name of the pension where he stayed in Rome.

I had a nice letter from Alfred. Florence and Tommy have rented their house and have gone to Oregon. Graeff Kennedy** has the whooping cough and the Morse children,*** the measles. Letter from Hazel – Percy is thin and not feeling well. Worries too much. He is taking a vacation. John is all right.

Inscriptions on stone seal at Fiesole. Ai sitor fratelli viaggiatori di tatti I paesi un Inglise. A.D. 1872.


*The Church of Sant'Alessandro, probably founded as early as the third century. It is on the site of an old Etruscan temple which was later replaced by a Roman temple of Bacchus. At the beginning of the sixth century Theodoric the Great is said to have converted the building into a Christian church making it the oldest Christian church in Tuscany.
**Graef Kennedy was married to Edith Kennedy, Jennie’s niece. Also Graef Kennedy Jr. was Edith’s son (b. 1913).
*** Duncan (b. 1909) and Florence (b. 1913) were Margaret’s children and Jennie’s grandchildren.

Sightseeing at Santa Croce and Church of San Miniato

A pleasant clear day. I had breakfast in bed with an egg and a little honey. Studied Italian. I was dressed by 10 and went into Helen's room – decided to go to Santa Croce. Invited the English woman, Mrs. Moore, to go with us and she brought her friend Mrs. Wilde, so it was after eleven before we got there. We separated and went around alone.



Went to Munsterman’s on the way back and bought Florence's medicines. After lunch, laid down an hour and then Helen and I walked down to the Duomo and took No. 13 tram to the church of San Miniato. It is a beautiful old church.

I had my opera glasses and Helen read the descriptions of the frescoes while I looked at them – an ideal way to do sight seeing – Saw the sacristy and talked a little Italian to the monk in charge who was very pleasant. We gave him a franc for the tour. We spent a long time looking at the church and then went into the cemetery which I found very wonderful. We admired many of the monuments which were works of art.


Stopped to admire the front of the church and bought some postals. We had to wait a long time for a car and then it was jammed, but we got a seat. We rode to the Duomo and had to wait again for No. 14 to take us to the house. Got there at 8. Had dinner – Mme. Crocini waited on us as her nephew was out. – She gave me two eggs “from the country.”

Spoke to Miss Kinney. – She said she had seen me in San Jose. Found Helen tired and going to bed. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room and the girls played some pieces on the piano Stayed till nearly ten o’clock.

Visit to Certosa

Breakfast in bed – studied the grammar as usual. – Finished family letter and sent it to Margaret. – Went with Helen to Or San Michele – then to do some errands and home.

Expected Mlle. Bianca Carli to come at 2:30 to give me an Italian lesson but she didn’t come, so came up and read in Helen’s book on Florence for awhile and then we started off for Certosa, the old monastery. Saw a very interesting old monk in a white habit who took us through the chapels – and into the monastery gardens and into one of the cells where the monks lived alone with a little garden near them. We saw the dining room where they eat in silence – a beautiful restful spot, beautiful views.



Bought postal cards – liqueur, honey and a vase with liqueur inside – Helen and I came back to Florence and then hunted around for a green vase to hold the sweet peas I bought this morning, also to get some eggs. Got home just in time for dinner.

After dinner had a pleasant chat with ??? Mr. Houghton. He had been to the Dananzati Palace and was most enthusiastic. Told of his visit to a palace owned by a Mr. Holshover – an artist from Detroit – who has bought this old palace which had been turned into a contadino house and restored it taking out petitions. I was going out with Mrs. Tanner to a cinematograph, forgot it talking to Mr. Houghton – came down to apologize and stayed there talking and laughing until nearly eleven.

Met Mrs. Oudesleys and her daughter on the tram. She says there are very few left at Le Lune. A Miss Kinney from San Jose came today.

Santa Trinita Church and Drugstore

Tired as usual. I am so tired of being tired. Had b’fast in bed, for my b’fast appeared when I rang for hot water. Helen came in about half past nine all dressed to go out, to do some errands and she said she would come back at 10:30 for me which she did and we went to Church of San Trinita and looked at the frescoes and paintings.



Then we went to Munsterman’s* and I left Florence’s bottle to be refilled and bought some essence of peppermint. The man weighed me and said it came to 64.5 kilos - a kilo is 2 1/20 lb. so that I was 141.5 but that does not figure out but 134 2/5 and I know I weigh much more than that. The other clerk said 143.5 the other day. Came home and lay down before lunch. After lunch had a nice little chat with Herbert Houghton and Helen Chase. He is over for three months and his wife and children are at Stamford, Conn.

Then I wrote a long letter to Margaret and enclosed one from Marion about Edith. Also a note to Mlle Bianca Carli to tell her that Helen and I want to begin our Italian lessons.

I was going out to walk but it rained so I did some mending and then basted the hem in the black and white striped dress Florence game me. Helen saw me working on it and offered to hem it, which will be a great help.

After dinner went into the drawing room a little while. They pressed me to play bridge but I escaped. Went into Helen’s room and found Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Tanner there. We had a nice visit with them.

*Probably The English and American Pharmacy, F. Munsterman, in Piazzetta Goldoni.

Quiet Sunday with Church, Zwieback, and Letters

Maid brought the hot water at 8. Breakfast at 8:30. I woke up feeling very tired. Had breakfast in bed. Just managed to dress slowly and to the Presbyterian Ch. I was too tired to enjoy the service. Came right back. Had bouillon, toast and an egg for lunch.

I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.

Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.


We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?

I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.

I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.