Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.
Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.
After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.
Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.
Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.
Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.
Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.
*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.
Showing posts with label churches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label churches. Show all posts
Sunday, August 2
Wednesday, July 29
Visiting San Marco; toothache
I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.
Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.
My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.
* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.
Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.
My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.
* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.
Sunday, July 26
Sunday services in Venice
Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.
Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.
Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.
After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.
It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.
Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.
We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.
Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.
Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.
After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.
It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.
Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.
We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.
Sunday, June 14
Quiet Sunday with Church, Zwieback, and Letters
Maid brought the hot water at 8. Breakfast at 8:30. I woke up feeling very tired. Had breakfast in bed. Just managed to dress slowly and to the Presbyterian Ch. I was too tired to enjoy the service. Came right back. Had bouillon, toast and an egg for lunch.
I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.
Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.
We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?
I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.
I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.
I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.
Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.
We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?
I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.
I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.
Monday, June 1
Trip to Fiesole (2)
Woke up at 7:45, but felt pretty tired so did not get right up. However, soon called for hot water, took my bath, and had breakfast with half a cup of F.’s stewed cherries. Before I was dressed, my Italian teacher came and I spent two hours working as hard as I could. Paid her 5 fr. for two double lessons and carfare.
After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.
First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.
Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.
Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.
They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.
The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.
After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.
* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.
After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.
First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.
Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.
Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.
They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.
The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.
After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.
* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.
Sunday, May 31
Sunday service at the American Church
Was dressed before I rang for breakfast.
Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.
Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.
Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.
Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.
Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.
*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.
Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.
Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.
Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.
Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.
Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.
*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.
Sunday, May 24
American Church and visit with Helen
Very late about rising - as usual.
However, caught the 10:15 car and through the kindness of some people learned how to go to the American church* where I met Helen. The church is very pretty, the rector a fine man. He read the service in a slow impressive manner. The music was beautiful. Unfortunately there is a bad echo so one loses the words and so the connection of thought. The church was quite well filled. It took me one hour to return. Reached here at 1:30, an hour late to lunch, so had just bread and milk and an orange.
Helen came out about four, soon after Florence went down to see Pauline Altiocchi, so Helen and I were left alone. She asked me some pointed questions and I told her the truth about last winter, how Florence had become restive under the unnatural conditions in which she found herself, so that she actually felt she was doing wrong if she went alone either to walk or to make a call knowing Helen would feel hurt if left behind.
I told Helen that such a relation between people was unnatural and unpleasant. That Florence liked her very much but that she felt she must have more freedom of action and I told Helen that if she wanted to join us on the condition that we would all be free to live our own lives, we would be glad to have her. She did not answer, but evidently wishes to think it over.
Florence returned tired out, her feet hurting her. Helen left just before F. returned. F. had seen Pauline and her children and had invited them all here for tea on Tuesday, but I begged her to recall the invitation as she was so unwell. Sat up till after twelve writing to Alfred.
*Most likely St. James American Protestant Episcopal Church, Via Rucellai Bernardo 9, which is known as “the American Church” and was built 1908-1911.
Sunday, May 3
Mass in St. Peter's Basilica and Colosseum in Rome
A very busy day. I went to the 9:30 service in the chapel of Julia in St. Peters* at 9:40 today. I went so early I had a fine seat. The service was both beautiful, and interesting.
After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.
After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.
Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.
I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.
*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto
After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.
After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.
Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.
I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.
*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto
Tuesday, April 14
Visiting Capri
Got up before seven. My tooth pained me a good deal in the night. It has a great gum boil on it.
Had b’fast before eight with an egg. Got ready and started off with Miss W and Miss P before 8:35. Went in train No. 3 to San Lucia. On the way stopped to get tickets from Paglieri’s for Capri. Paid $3.15 for those.
Took small boat to steamer and met a pleasant Chicago woman who was traveling alone so took her with us. We had seats in the back and changed to the front of the boat. Stopped at Sorrento - then went on to Capri and to the Blue Grotto which is wonderful. Stayed there about three minutes.
Then to Capri where Miss Peet and I had difficulty in landing on account of the protestations of the boatmen. Got a carriage and drove to the top, then went into some shops where I bought a fan and two coins - the others postal cards. Then we were advised to take a walk to see the view.
We went between two high walls and could see nothing but the sights in the streets - walked and walked - finally road apparently ended in a house so we turned and came back, went into an old church very queer.
Got into a carriage, rode down passed the oldest church [Chiesa di S. Costanzo] in this part of the country. It is white with 4 white towers…back to boat. Sat in the boat looking at view. Finally got so cold we went to the stern.
Got in at 6:30 went to see agency about tickets for Amalfi drive. Will take us three for $27. We had our lunch on the steamer before getting off at Capri.
Found a letter from Florence. She has to leave her place and is at a doctor at Fiesole. She wants to take a house at Asolo near Venice for a week.
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