Visit to opera and sightseeing in Verona. News that Lieges is taken

We all had b’fast in the large bedroom and at 9.30 Florence left for Florence. Helen went to the P.O., found a letter from Thos. Cook & Son, Milan saying the missing trunks were there so she took it right to the station to show Florence.

Then Helen and I went out to walk. We went to San Maggiore and around by the Duomo and by the Amphitheatre house. We had lunch in our own room – mine was hot-bread and milk. I did not feel at all well and I slipped on the polished tiling and fell.

We lay down and had a good rest and about five went out to walk again. We bought tickets for the opera tonight in the amphitheatre and took a car ride to Porta Santa Nuova and back. Dinner was late. Then we came upstairs and got our thick things.

I went to the opera.* Helen took her steamer rug and we sat on the broad stone seats and watched the opera. It was wonderful and I enjoyed it very much and would have more if I had not been so sleepy. The stage was so large it made a splendid setting and the moon rose and shone over all. There were a great many in the lire seats. There were a great many performers and the orchestra was good. It was over at 12.07 – we went home after waiting till the greater part of the crowd had gone.

It was 1.30 before we got to bed. I hear that Lieges is taken by the Germans.

*Carmen

Peaches in Verona and more war news

We had b’fast together. Helen boiled eggs and we had cut up peaches. Then we all went out to see something of the town.

We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.

She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.

F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.

Venice to Verona

Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.

It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.

A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.

They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.

Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.

We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.

Money from home; Senate sends ships for Americans

Got started late this morning for I stopped to write 3 postals. Rec’d a registered letter from Alfred, forward by registered mail from the mail clerk at French Lemon. Also a postal from Margaret saying that Duncan is better and a wild appeal from Florence Humphrey from Verona begging me to write to her re. and she never addressed it to me but only to French Lemon & Co. No wonder she loses mail.

Alfred sent me $165 – $50 from Aunt Marion, $45 – P.W. Co and $65 from him. Wrote F.T.H. telling her again where I was – to Alfred ach. {knowledging] money and to French Lemon ach. [knowledging] letter and the one addressed postal. Mailed them myself at branch P.O.

Then went to public library – saw some handsome illuminated books, bought a few Venetian beads. Then came home. After lunch about 8 [sic] I started out to go to Murano, walked from the Rialto bridge across the city to the water front. Those queer narrow streets and little squares were most interesting.

Took the boat to Murano – a short pretty ride. Went to two churches and the museum, but thought my trip was a failure. Walked back to the Rialto. Very tired. A lady came to see me who had seen Florence in Verona this a.m. Said F. had not heard and was afraid I had gone on to Munich without any money. They all went to the opera last night however.

War news seems to be quieting down. Consul wants every American to come for registration papers. Heard that the Senate had voted to send over ships for stranded Americans so perhaps I will have to go home willy nilly.

More war news and sightseeing

Feel very tired this morning as is very apt to be the case. Received postal from Florence. She was in the train to Bozen* with many soldiers. An Austrian officer advised her to go back to Italy at once, so she and Helen are going to Verona and want me to join them. I wrote a card to her and to Alfred and finished letter to Margaret and went to post office to mail them. They said mail was going to America – went over the central part of the Rialto bridge – very interesting.

Bought some of the cheap printed goods that the people wear. Tried to come home through the Merceria** but came somehow made a wrong turn and had to inquire and inquire, but finally reached S. Marco and then walked to the ferry and then home.

Bought two Italian papers and came home and tried to read the war news with my dictionary. Young Mr. Conte says that Austria is making war in Servia – that Russia has declared war against Germany and Germany against France – that England will be drawn into it as the ally of Russia and France but that Italy will remain neutral. Lay down and fell asleep.

Then studied Baedecker and decided to cross the ferry and walk over to the church of San Giovanni il Paolo.*** I did and enjoyed the walk immensely – enjoyed the church too – then came back by way of the Rialto bridge – going through all sorts of queer little narrow “calles” or streets and campo. Took the Vaporetto.****

12 new people came today. Everyone is talking about the war and everyone wants to get back to U.S. Listened to the talk awhile, then came up and tried to read some more of the Italian paper. Do not like this pension. It is second class.

*Before World War 1, Bozen was part of the Austro-Hungarian county of Tyrol. It was annexed by Italy at the end of the World War 1.
**Merceria is the main shopping street of Venice. It begins near the Rialto Bridge as a small square and goes to St Mark's Square.
***San Giovanni e Paolo
****Water-bus

Americans trying to get passage home

I went to the Museo Civico and spent a most interesting morning in looking over the collections. The guards are all old men and before I got back I had given something to a lot of them, not because they had done anything, but simply because they were old.

I was fifty minutes getting home, and so was very late, 1.40, when I sat down to lunch. Heard that the American consul had sent word to all pensions and hotels requesting all Americans to register – so two of us went around to do so - found the office full of frightened Americans – most of them people who had passage taken on some ship for this morning.

German ships have cancelled sailings and it is impossible to get to France or England to take passage from those countries. Consul advised us not to try to leave Italy as Italy was neutral and safe. Said I couldn’t get into Austria if I tried.

Came back to pension and went to Pension Gregori after mail. Said he had forwarded a postal to me. Then to Am. Exp. Co. - no letters.

Had an ice and listened to the music in the Piazzetta – came home. Found everyone wild with excitement. 500 Americans are trying to charter a steamer to take them home - $100 apiece. I listened to them reading war news. Read Cosmopolitan magazine to quiet my mind before going to bed. Some Italians in a wine shop near here argued so long and fiercely that I couldn’t get to sleep. They did the same thing last night.

Sightseeing and declaration of war by Germany

Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.

Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.

After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.

Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.

Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.

Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.

Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.

*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.