Verona to Milan

Got up at 6. Finished packing – had b’fast at 7.15. We got off at 7.40 and rode to station. We had seats by the window 3rd class. There were two sailors from the Lake of Garda near us. I got talking with them and one of them showed me his wife and babies’ pictures. I had a great time trying to tell them how we ate corn ??? in America.

We had several different traveling companions on our way to Milan which we reached about 12.20. Left our things in deposits and started in a tram for Cooks’ – no letters there, then went and got a simple lunch - 25 cts. a piece in a 3rd class place, but we have to be economical.

Then looked up the first pension given in Baedeker. Miss Betham Via Brera 5. They had closed their pension and were going away when the war broke out – now they don’t know what to do. At first they – two sisters – said they couldn’t take us, but finally said they could for 3 fr. 1 ½ apiece room and caffé latté in the morning – we didn’t decide to take them and went to the consul where Helen got a certificate of citizenship.

The consul had just arrived from America. He said not to be afraid and to get what pleasure you could and no need yet for people to go home. An Italian company is sending vessels back and asking $100 for steerage. A battleship has sailed from U.S. with $2,000,000 in gold for Americans.

Then we posted two postals to Florence in Firenze and went to Bella Venezia hotel where they wanted 11 frs. a day for pension –so then we came back to Via Brera 5, took the rooms and left our things there. Then went to station on tram and got our things and Helen rode back with them. She wanted me to, but I felt tired and cross and wouldn’t. Found Helen here when I got in. I was so dead tired and my back ached so I went right to bed. Helen came in and heated the milk and I had hot bread, milk for supper. Helen had malted milk, rolls and peaches. I slept very well indeed.

Venice to Verona

Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.

It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.

A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.

They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.

Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.

We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.

In Florence with Florence and Helen!

Was called before six - dressed, finished packing and was off before 7:30. Miss Shakspere Wood said she hoped I would return. They were kind and I was sorry to go.

Took twenty minutes and cost 8 fr. 20 to get any trunk billed through to Florence. Got a nice seat. 2nd class by the window. An Italian family of five came in. I felt headachy and half sick.

Watched the scenery which was interesting. Very primitive methods - hardly scratch the soil with their ploughs.

Italian family went to lunch. 3 English women came in. Thought they would come to blows.

Florence and Helen* both at station to meet me. It was raining. Had to wait half an hour for my trunk.



Drove out to Pension Le Lune which seems very pleasant. I am to have a small room and pay 7 frs. a day. Helen did not come up as she is staying at the Montebello, to have her clothes fixed.

We had tea in Florence’s room and in eating a piece of zweibach. I broke off my other tooth, so that means more money and more distress but it can’t be helped.

My cold is growing worse so I shall not go down but have my dinner in my room or rather Florence’s. Had soup and whipped cream and cake. Had a hot water bottle and went to bed.

Florence came in and we talked till eleven. My cold is so stuffy, I could not sleep. Had a nice letter from Margaret** forwarded from Rome.

*An old friend, Helen Chase.
**Her daughter, Margaret Morse who is living in Amherst, MA. at this time.

Arrived in Rome

Got up at 6:45. Dressed and packed leisurely as I went along. All through by 8:20. Had b’fast but porter came and said I must leave so got off at 8:50. Took single carriage and porter went with me.

Saw my trunk weighed and registered. Train full, but new cars were put on and I got a seat by the window. Five men in the coach. All behaved well. Mrs. Dickens gave me a lunch which I solemnly ate at one o’clock.

Saw the remains of the aqueduct coming into Rome.

There were clouds in the sky and the ride along the Apennines was rarely beautiful, beautiful all the way from Naples to Rome.

Got a facchino* and got my things and started in a carriage to Miss Schnabe. Found she had gone on her vacation leaving a Miss Margaret Wood in charge. She gave me a pleasant double room with a balcony looking out in the garden. She sent tea in to my room and I unpacked some of my things.

Dinner at 7:30. Put on my black silk with blue collar and cuffs. Sat at Miss Wood’s table with four other women - all English I think. Met Miss __, the English teacher Florence knew with her four girls.

Went into the reception room after dinner and read The Daily Graphic** and learned from that Pres. Wilson has sent a force to Mexico to demand apology from Huerta for insults to our flag and people. Congress voted him $50,000.

Washed my hair-terrible job as the water is hard. Slept very well.

*porter
**The Daily Graphic was a daily London paper launched in 1880 and merged with another paper in 1926. It was the first illustrated paper.