Visiting the Roman Forum

Felt pretty tired after my trip of yesterday so had b’fast in bed and did not go down till 10. Then washed out my night dress and hung it out on the balcony to dry.

Had a talk with Miss Wood about rooms. It will cost from $55 to $60 a month here - two in a room - if we come here next winter - fully $60 with fire for you pay for your own fuel.

After lunch I started for the Forum to attend a lecture by Dr. Raymond. I was late in getting there so missed the lecture but wandered around the ruins for two hours and a half and with the aid of Baedeker understood the place fully well. A keeper showed me the new excavations for which I gave him four cents.



Was beguiled into buying two sets of Roman postcards for 85 cents.

Spent part of the evening in the living room talking to Miss Patterson.

Finished a silly old novel called Marriage by Miss Ferrier*, a distinct imitation of Evalina.

*Susan Edmonstone Ferrier, “Marriage,” 1818.

Sightseeing in Rome with AmEx

Got down to the American Exp. office before 9 a.m. Dr. Edmiston came soon after and the two others of the party - father and son named Mantz from the North Shore Drive, Chicago.

We drove first to St. Peters which I had studied by myself Sunday. We saw Peter’s grave and the gilt box above where the bishop’s robe is kept. Then to the Vatican where we saw what was best in the sculpture and in the Egyptian rooms and in the painting.


We went into the Borgia departments. The old man got pretty tired. I left them in the Piazza de Pietro and came back in No. 16 tram.

After lunch wrote to Florence and got ready and went to the Am. Ex. Office - where the carriage and the people soon appeared. We rode to the Coliseum but did not go in, passed the Baths of Caracalla, then along the Appian Way which is dusty and interesting.

We went down into the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, were there perhaps half an hour, very interesting to see the tiers of graves and the little chapels in the shape of a cross.


We carried candles in our hands and were a party of ten I guess. The old man did not go nor Dr. Edmiston. Coming back we stopped at St. Paul’s Outside the Walls which is a new and interesting church* with a beautiful old cloister.

Then we rode right back to the Am. Ex. Office. We did not go to the Doria picture gallery, nor to see the graves Keats and Shelley,** nor to the church of St. Sebastian, I suppose on account of the old man.

Met Mrs. Bell in the office and said goodbye to her again. I like my next neighbor at the table, Mrs. Haywood. The rest of the people are English and stiff. Had a letter from Florence*** which I answered at once about the apt. in Asolo. She says Helen has written to me twice in Naples. I did not receive either letter.

*Faithful reconstruction of 4th century basilica destroyed by fire in 1823.
**In Protestant cemetery, Cimitero Acattolico
***Florence Humphrey, her sister

Rome and Via Nomentana

Slept pretty well. Woke up early - dressed.

Had b’fast in my room and started off at 8:35 for the Am. Express Co. to go on the excursion if one was going. Got there before it opened.

Saw a Mrs. Carpenter who railed at the U.S. postal service. Said “It was rotten.”

Saw Mr. Edmiston, said no one had booked so far, but took my address and will send me word in case a party is formed. He gave me several addresses and showed me how to take no. 9 train to Via Nomentana.



Went to end of line. Sat down on the grass looking towards the mts. and wrote a postal to Margaret*. Came back and then went to Cook’s for letter from home - came back on No. 14.

Lay down before lunch. Finished The Princess Locked Book** by Mrs. Williamson. Then slept for two hours. Mended my clothes to change tomorrow. Ate a very hearty lunch. Not so much for dinner. At dinner had a pleasant chat with Mrs. Hayward who sat next to me. She invited me to go to the Doria gallery with her tomorrow and I shall be glad to if I don’t go with this Prof. Edmiston.

*Her daughter.
** “Princess Mary's Locked Book” by Mrs. C. N. Williamson published in 1912.

Rome and St. Peter's Basilica

Got up at 7:15. Had a bath in the saucer pan and breakfast alone in the dining room with my faithful Baedeker beside me. Coffee - hot milk - rolls and fresh butter - no more - no less.

Then went by myself to St. Peter’s, carried a camp-chair, went first of all to a German service and then to the regular High Mass. It was a beautiful service. Not knowing where it was to be held, I was late so stood all the way through.

Then went all around the church with the Baedeker and looked at everything, but it is impossible to take it all in at once or I should think at many visits. It is magnificent beyond words with its wealth of detail.




Left just before noon. Rode back for I was tired. Lay down till lunch. Miss Wood told me how to go to see Mrs. Bell.

Got there all right. Had a great time in getting word to Mrs. Bell after I got to the pension. It took me 25 minutes before I made them understand whom I wanted. There was an Italian woman who was very rude - told me to go to the station and take a no. 12 train. Then they said Mrs. Bell was out, was asleep, and finally she came down and I had a pleasant visit with her - told her what hard work I had had reaching her.

Her friend Mrs. Abbott came down and an Oakland woman, a Mrs. Watson came in and we had tea. Left just before six - cars were crowded - stood all the way home. Went into the drawing room a while. A Miss Patterson spoke to me-said she knew Florence well. Been to Capri with her.

Rome: The Vatican and Piazza di Spagna

Bath in the big sauce pan 8 inches high at 7:30. Expected b’fast at 8 as I heard Miss Wood tell the maid, but I got interested in reading Baedeker* and it was 8:20 before I realized the time.

Rang for the maid and breakfast came about 8:30. Studied my Italian grammar book while eating. Started to dress and Miss Wood came and invited me to go with the school girls to the Vatican. I hurried and we started at 10 A.M.

Rode in the No. 16 train to St. Peter’s, then took a carriage and rode to the Vatican. Went to Sistine Chapel. Met Mrs. Bell and had a nice chat with her. She is on crutches as she slipped and sprained her foot.

Then we went to see Raphael’s Stanzas** but there was such a crowd - this being a free day that we could not see much - besides they wanted to get back to the pension as they leave this afternoon. I came with them. We took a carriage - cost me a franc. A letter from Florence Humphrey. She has moved back to Pension Le Lune*** and is feeling better.



About 3 P.M. I started for Piazza di Spagna to see about taking the sight seeing trip with Dr. Edmiston. Went in the 14 train. Found a 10 cm. piece in the street. Shall keep it for good luck. Got $10 changed. Found the excursions were given up for the present as no on had booked. Walked home following st. car line. Read London Daily Graphic about our war with Mexico.


*Travel guide published by Karl Baedeker
**Pope Julius II Dell a Rovere commissioned 25 year old Raphael Sanzio in 1508 to paint the frescos in his four room apartment on the top floor. Three of the rooms were of modest dimensions, while the fourth one was considerably larger; with the completion of the work, the rooms became known as "The Raphael Stanze" .
***In Florence.

Arrived in Rome

Got up at 6:45. Dressed and packed leisurely as I went along. All through by 8:20. Had b’fast but porter came and said I must leave so got off at 8:50. Took single carriage and porter went with me.

Saw my trunk weighed and registered. Train full, but new cars were put on and I got a seat by the window. Five men in the coach. All behaved well. Mrs. Dickens gave me a lunch which I solemnly ate at one o’clock.

Saw the remains of the aqueduct coming into Rome.

There were clouds in the sky and the ride along the Apennines was rarely beautiful, beautiful all the way from Naples to Rome.

Got a facchino* and got my things and started in a carriage to Miss Schnabe. Found she had gone on her vacation leaving a Miss Margaret Wood in charge. She gave me a pleasant double room with a balcony looking out in the garden. She sent tea in to my room and I unpacked some of my things.

Dinner at 7:30. Put on my black silk with blue collar and cuffs. Sat at Miss Wood’s table with four other women - all English I think. Met Miss __, the English teacher Florence knew with her four girls.

Went into the reception room after dinner and read The Daily Graphic** and learned from that Pres. Wilson has sent a force to Mexico to demand apology from Huerta for insults to our flag and people. Congress voted him $50,000.

Washed my hair-terrible job as the water is hard. Slept very well.

*porter
**The Daily Graphic was a daily London paper launched in 1880 and merged with another paper in 1926. It was the first illustrated paper.