New lodgings in Venice

Had a profuse perspiration in the night and woke up without pain, but weak. Had breakfast in bed – got up about eleven and dressed – but did not go out. Intended to go to station with the Oudesluys – but all four were going in one gondola so I said goodbye at the house.

Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.

Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.

The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.

Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.

I am going to bed, tired but happy.

Fever and toothache -- resting in bed

I had another bad night and had indigestion beside so I had to get up and have a peppermint patty. Towards morning, the pain became less, but I have a big swelling on the side of the roof of my mouth – spent most of the morning dozing. I made up my mind I wouldn’t go tomorrow with the O’s but when I found my temp was 100 ½ (It dropped to 99 ½ this morning) decided I must get out of bed so I began to pick up my things.

The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.

*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."

Toothache, infection, and fever

I had a dreadful night – up and down all night, but I did get a few short naps. Had my meals in bed – principally soup or hot milk as my mouth is so sore I can’t chew and my throat is sore so I can hardly swallow.

The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.

I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.

Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.

Visiting San Marco; toothache

I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.

Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.

My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.

* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.

Art galleries, mail, and bath-houses

Could not sleep so got up at 3.30 and had a peppermint patty, and wrote a note to F.B. H. who has left Pellegrino and is on her way to Cortina to meet us. My letter is to catch her at Riva. I went to the Rialto to mail it and some postcards to Marion for bridge cards.

The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.

Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.

Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.

After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.

Post cards, errands, and Grand Canal tour by gondola

I wrote till after midnight before I finished my letter to Percy about the furniture. This morning I read it over and added another note and sent him some seeds – zucchini and blue morning glory. I also sent Percy’s letter to Margaret – so that she could understand the whole affair. It took me till nearly eleven before I could get my things ready to post.

Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.

Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.

I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.

I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.

I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.

Sunday services in Venice

Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.

Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.

Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.

After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.

It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.

Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.

We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.