Letters, Letters

Helen came into my room soon after six all dressed and ready to go, and even then she had not fully decided to go, but the maid called her and she left to get her b’fast and then came back and said good-by and started for Florence with Mrs. Clement and Miss Jeannerett.

Had b’fast and studied Italian. Then the maid came in with the mail for me from French Lemon & Co., two letters from Percy, one from Alfred enclosing $60, in money, one from Margaret, one from Florence S., one from F.B.H. and one from Uncle Hugh with his fifth manuscript, 2 to Helen from Hotel des Thermes. I wrote a note to Helen and addressed it to the Riccioli* and enclosed her two letters and the one I rec’d from F.B.H. and sent it, also sent one to Crocini for fear she might have gone there. Also forwarded to F. B. H. a note that Florence S. had sent her in my care and wrote her a little note.

Talked about Venice and the Dolomite trip with Mrs. O. and found out how much they were expected to cost. Wrote to F. B. about them. Mailed the letters about 3, went up town to Mosca’s to hunt for Nellie’s card case. “Not found,” the clerk said. Came back and studied hard an hour and a half on my Italian before Signorina Orlandi came. Had a good lesson. The Italian was at dinner and we had a polyglot conversation again. Left the table to look at the soldiers returning from Africa. Sat on the porch. Miss Gamble and her friend came over. Miss G. had taken the Dolomite trip and told us a lot about it. Mrs. O. and I walked around the Lizza** and came in. I am tired and going to bed.

Alfred’s landlady, Mrs. Johnstone, died very suddenly. I am sorry. She was a nice woman. He is well. He wrote me about the furniture. Could not find my cascara,*** but just pieces of the bottle. It must have been broken.

*Probably Riccioli, Via dei Tintori, mentioned in Italy Handbook for Travellers, by Karl Baedeker, 1906
** City park, La Lizza.
***Cascara-medicinal bark taken for constipation.

Sightseeing in Old Siena

Dressed somewhat earlier so as to go with Helen and Miss Jeannerett. We went through the oldest part of Siena – Via Castel Vecchio re to the Porta San Marco. We visited three churches en route – The Oratory of St. Mary of the Snow – and the Convento del Carmine and I do not remember the other – nothing of especial interest. We saw an old woman making twine out of flax. – We watched her a few minutes and then I gave her two cents – Lay down a few minutes before lunch. Slept 1 ½ hours after lunch – then changed my dress and started in to study. Wrote two exercises when Helen came in from her call on Miss Haskell and we talked over plans. She hates to go to Florence, but I want her to go to see Dr. Giglioli for I think he can help her and she needs help.

I had an interesting lesson with Signorina Orlandi – and I am learning with her.
At dinner I talked to the gentleman who sat next to me – in school girl French and worse Italian and convulsed the English speaking crowd. I heard afterwards that he was a count. He speaks French and German, of course Italian, understands English, but cannot speak it. After dinner Mrs. Clement, Miss Jeannerett, Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I sat in the parlor chatting. Mrs. Clement and her daughter go tomorrow. Helen is packed but does not know whether to go or not. She wants to see Florence’s letter. She dreads going alone – but it is only a two hour ride.

Churches and Italian Studies

Went with Mrs. Oudesluys, Mrs. Clement, Helen, Miss Jeannerette and Flora Davis to the church of Santo Spirito on the Via Ricasoli – then with Helen and Miss Jeannerette to the Porta Romana. It was a most interesting morning and we saw interesting old houses and queer old streets. I stopped at the church coming back and got my card case and it is a beauty.



Lay down an hour after lunch – then studied Italian till five when I went out with Mrs. O and Helen to the church of Santa Maria di Fontegiusta. It is the most beautiful church I have ever seen with the most beautiful altar, nothing tawdry about it.

I came back to take my lesson and Helen and Mrs. O went in the Cusurelli* farm. They reached there so late that they stayed to dinner and did not get back till nearly nine.

I had a very nice lesson with Signoria Orlandi. She will make me learn if anyone can.

After dinner went upstairs to sit with Hortense O. who has been in bed all day. We were speculating as to what had happened to her mother and Helen when they came in and told us of their adventures.

I wrote to the Pension Crocini and to French Lemon & Co. to send me my mail.

*Possibly Lucarelli, a town outside of Tuscany, which has a farm house which has had guests since the 1880’s.

Siena Duomo

Slept pretty well. After breakfast, moved my things into the front room, no. 8 that Miss Herron had. I like it very much. Then Helen and I went out to the Duomo for an hour and I looked at the pavement and the upper rose window of the Last Supper.


Meant to have laid down but I got reading The New York Times that Mrs. Clement lent me. I did take a nap in my chair. Oh by the way – I have a rocking chair.

My teacher, Signorina Vittoria Orlandi, came by at 5 and I like her very much indeed. After she left, I studied till time to get ready for dinner. After dinner chatted awhile with Mrs. Clement, Mrs. and Miss O. and Helen. Then we four went out into the park and took a walk.

Studied Italian awhile after I came in.

Palazzo dei Diavoli

Woke up soon after 5 and could not go to sleep. Got up a little after six and wrote a letter to Uncle Hugh enclosing Florence’s letter from San Pellegrino.

Washed out some gloves, h’chiefs re – did some sewing – went out with Helen to take a tram ride but the tram was so late in starting that we thought we should not have time before lunch – so started home – Met the English woman from the Crocini, Mrs. Moore. She said Mrs. Wylde was going to the Dolomites tomorrow.

Did not lie down after lunch but mended my clothes instead. Expected the Italian teacher at four – but she came at five and said she could not give me a lesson today, but would tomorrow at 5.

Then Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I went out and got into a train that went to the Piazza Diavoli*. It was a pleasant ride. We walked back going into a church on the way – near the house. I came into the house and rested while the others sat in the park.

After dinner, sat with Helen, Mrs. Clement and her daughter, Miss Jeanerette. They told lots of funny stories, Miss. J. especially of the quaint things her Italian pupils in New York had said. It is cold tonight.

*Probably the Palazzo dei Diavoli, sometimes called the Palazzo del Turco, and located outside the Porta Camillia.

Cimitero della Misericordia (Cemetery of Mercy) Siena

Slept till 8:30. Had b’fast – afterwards went out with Helen to the market and bought some wild strawberries and was dreadfully cheated by the woman. I came back and stewed them for breakfast – tomorrow.

Helen said that I did not need to go back to Florence with her but that I could stay on here and come up later and she would go and consult the doctor and do what he said – but she would try to persuade him to let her go into Switzerland with me. The Signora will give me the room Miss Herron has. She leaves tomorrow.

Talked with the Clements awhile before lunch. Lay down after lunch and had a good sleep of 1 ½ hours – finished my family letter and mailed it.

Helen and I walked out to the cemetery of the Misericordia and saw the monuments there – the beautiful Pieta* re and walked back.



After dinner, we talked to Miss H. and Mrs. Cl., then I wrote a note to Florence and to the Italian teacher Miss H. recommended and Signora sent the maids out to mail them.

*probably the Pieta created by Giovanni Dupré in 1863 for the family tomb of the Marchese Bichi-Ruspoli in the cemetery of the Misericordia, Siena.

Siena on a Sunday: "A band went past at midnight playing lustily"

After I got home last night I had a peppermint patty and read a two weeks old Sunday home paper so I was 1.40 A.M. before I got to bed. I did not get up till 9.30 and had only a cup of caffe latte for b’fast. I went to the Eng. Epis. church with Mrs. and Miss O. [Oudesluy] and heard a very good sermon by a Rev. Mr. Read about giving and going to the communion.

After lunch lay down for 1 ½ hours – then began a family letter about the play we went to last night. Finished it at 12.30 this Monday morning.

Went to 6 o’clock even song at the English church and spoke to the pastor, Rev. Mr. Read. We had a pleasant talk together about his morning sermon and about the fact that many in his audience were probably members of other denominations and so did not respond to his invitation to take the communion. He said that people traveling should not feel so but were welcome as guests at the Lord’s Table.

Coming home I sat in the park awhile listening to the music and watching the people. After dinner Helen and I walked with the two sisters from Detroit, the Misses Gamble to see the Duomo by moonlight. We talked of California and of Egypt and had a most pleasant walk. Coming home I went upstairs and finished my family letter and wrote this diary. A band went past at midnight playing lustily.