Day off in Naples, shopping

Was tired so took my sponge bath and had breakfast in bed. Got dressed about ten. Washed out 7 h’chiefs.

Expected to go to Mrs. Dicken’s new house with her, but she had asthma so badly that she could not leave the house. Miss Ferris came in and invited me to go down town with her which I did.

She went to the Cunard office and then we wandered among the shops and came back to lunch. Sat by my window and wrote to the dear family.

Miss Ferris invited me to walk into Park and go to the shops which I did. We had a pleasant walk, stopped to hear the band play a selection and watch the people. Paid 2 cents for a chaise. Went into a couple of shops and gazed into many shop windows.



Bought some antiphlogistine* for Mrs. Dickens and later put some on her. It was hot and she said it felt good. Did not go into the drawing room but wrote a long letter home.

*Antiphlogistine: Medicated Poultice is a time-proven Kaolin clay poultice that provides temporary relief from muscle strain, sprains, etc.

Naples and Capodimonte Museum

I had a good night’s rest. My tooth is better. I still have no watch so Amelia called me. Miss Wilt came in before I was dressed, I gave her all the change I had - 20 liras. They left for Rome and I went to the carriage to see them off.

Had b’fast with the English doctor. I came into my room and I am writing this up and doing various odds and ends. Had a nice letter from Peggy* and one from Alfred* - my first letters from the children.

Puttered all the morning-went out into the office and found Mrs. Dickens there. She was suffering badly from asthma. Miss Ferris came in and we had a long talk.

After lunch, came in and wrote to Florence Humphrey - then went out with Miss Ferris. We went to Capodimonte.**



Coming back, met the English doctor. The table was full tonight at dinner. I sat next to the young English fellow who came yesterday and we talked fishes almost all the time. Spent the evening in the drawing room. Got my watch back.

* Peggy (Margaret) and Alfred, two of her children.
**The Palace and Museum of Capodimonte is a grand Bourbon palazzo in Naples, Italy, formerly the summer residence of the kings of the Two Sicily’s. It houses the main museum and art gallery of the city.

Back to Naples from Amalfi

Miss Wilt, Miss Peet got up before six, I a little later. Dressed and went out again on the top. Saw the big kitchen and watched them prepare vegetables, butter. Looked into the cloister. went out on another roof and looked at the terraces with oranges and lemons. Then went in the big grand colonnade, the long walk cut out of the rock and covered with grapes, roses, lemons and with quantities of beautiful flowers everywhere. You get a beautiful view of the sea. It was absolutely charming.



Had b’fast in the refectory at 7:15, bread toast and coffee brought in little pots with separate pitchers of hot milk and honey. I had a boiled egg. 5 cents. Then we went into the chapel and saw a crèche which was certainly peculiar and not wonderful with all its little figures all dressed in clothes. Went into the cloister, in fact, walked everywhere I could to see what the old monastery was like. Saw the little tiny rooms-was certainly enchanted with it. Saw Mrs. Sangster and Mrs.Coffin there, 2 of the Princess Irene passengers on the way to Istanbul.

Started at 9 for Sorrento, a hot and interesting drive, but not beautiful as the sea was grayish and there was no wonderful coloring. Got to Sorrento at one. Driver tried to make us pay 4 francs to see Miriam Crawford’s place* but we wouldn’t; reduced it to 2 francs but we wouldn’t.

Went to Hotel Tramontano** which is a beautiful place. We were all tired but a cup of tea and toast, some bouillon and stewed fruit made us all right. Had to pay 7 ½ francs for that but as Miss Wilt said it was worth it to see the hotel where sixteen Kings, Queens, Emperors and Empresses had stayed. The gardens were beautiful. Saw a bed of Baby Blue Eyes, Nemophila, California wildflowers.



Went up to the shops where I bought some inlaid boxes. Had a lot of fun over buying a box for Miss Peet who got her cheek cut looking for Miss Wilt’s handbag so Miss W. and I said we would get her a tip. She picked out a little box which I wanted to give Miss W. a little stamp box-then they gave me one, a franc a piece. I shall always keep mine. Then I bought a blue silk sweater, cheap one. 3.60 but it will do.

Went down the lift and found the sea rough. Got into a small boat and the boatman rowed us out to meet the boat from Capri. The sea was so rough that Miss W. was dreadfully frightened. Finally got in boat and had a beautiful sail into Naples. Got into another small boat and had another row with the boatman over what I don’t know. Two other men passengers, Germans got mad and there were great curses...

We [arrived?] on land and went off as fast as we could. Got in car and had to stand up all the way and had a good time getting the conductor to know just where we wanted to go. Had a very nice dinner. The English people gone. Ten new ones here. Went into the drawing room and showed Miss Ferris and the English mother and daughter my purchases in Sorrento. Miss Wilt, Miss Peet came in and I showed them my things also little John’s pictures.***

*Francis Marion Crawford (1854-1909) Italian-born American prolific author and historian wrote the Saracinesca Trilogy: Saracinesca, (1887) Sant' Ilario, (1889) and Don Orsino. (1892)
**Imperial Hotel Tramontano in Sorrento
***John Hincks, her first grandchild, son of Percy and Hazel.

Drive from Naples to Amalfi Coast

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It was not very clear so I wanted to postpone the trip. but although the English people at the table were going tomorrow and had an extra seat, they would not ask me so decided to go with Miss Wilt and Miss Peet.

We met at breakfast and they went off early for time to shop and do errands. Wrote a note to Miss Schwabe - telling her I would like to come the 24th if I could go around with the guests of her pension but did not wish to go sightseeing alone. Got started by 11.15 but no train in sight. Sent for a carriage. Didn’t come.

Miss Ferris, a nice American girl from Stratford came along, said “Go by train” so I got into the #2 didn’t go to the station, got out, saw my carriage, ran after it, got in in front of Mrs. Dickens and rode to the station, 2 ½ francs per person-a franc too much. I got there at 12:05.

No Miss Wilt – stood waiting - no seats - asked if this were the right station - “si si” finally two minutes before train time they came and we all rushed to the train, got in helped by an old man who had to have tip, ate lunch on train, changed cars, got on a local, went to La Cava.

Cook’s man met us, put us in carriage, two horses and we started. Rode into an alley where driver’s relations came out and helped him get ready, got him a whip, a coat, a hat. At the next turn, he had a great parley – loud voices and we had to get into another carriage.


We drove to Ravello and then to Amalfi. The drive was beautiful with the sea on the left and the interesting country on our right. The mountains are all terraced and the terraces held in place by stone walls usually lots of bollins of solid cement or cement covered with panels filled in with loose or fitted rocks.

These terraces connected by stone steps usually …planted with lemon trees which were covered by matting supported by long poles or else there were oranges or olives everywhere but the mountains were steep and rocky. A number of interesting wild flowers most of which I knew at least by family.

Interesting old relics, old towers and other ruins - queer houses of the peasants, children begging everywhere holding out itching palms. We would not give. As Miss Wilt said, “It goes against my principles.”

Beautiful views and colorings in sea and land. Beautiful drive winding up the valley to Ravello.



Up there we went into the Cathedral and saw the pulpit on six lions-“3 lions and 3 lionesses” also opposite Jonah being swallowed by a whale which looks like a dragon on one side. Jonah going down head first, in the other coming out head first so he must have turned around in the whale as Miss Wilt said.



We walked to a garden and they wanted 60 cents to see it. And we wouldn’t, besides we wanted to get to Amalfi by daylight. Decided to go to the Capuchin Hotel. Drove there, found it was full, but they said they would put us in the reading room so we went up and then went out in the dome and explored around.


Had a very nice dinner and then went up stairs and walked on the magnificent terrace where we could see the lights of Amalfi in the distance. Brought some postal cards as I am keeping these for souvenirs. Finally went to bed about eleven. Our beds made of 3 lounges-four chairs for each bed. They were most comfortable-Too tired to sleep well.

Visiting Capri

Got up before seven. My tooth pained me a good deal in the night. It has a great gum boil on it.

Had b’fast before eight with an egg. Got ready and started off with Miss W and Miss P before 8:35. Went in train No. 3 to San Lucia. On the way stopped to get tickets from Paglieri’s for Capri. Paid $3.15 for those.

Took small boat to steamer and met a pleasant Chicago woman who was traveling alone so took her with us. We had seats in the back and changed to the front of the boat. Stopped at Sorrento - then went on to Capri and to the Blue Grotto which is wonderful. Stayed there about three minutes.


Then to Capri where Miss Peet and I had difficulty in landing on account of the protestations of the boatmen. Got a carriage and drove to the top, then went into some shops where I bought a fan and two coins - the others postal cards. Then we were advised to take a walk to see the view.

We went between two high walls and could see nothing but the sights in the streets - walked and walked - finally road apparently ended in a house so we turned and came back, went into an old church very queer.

Got into a carriage, rode down passed the oldest church [Chiesa di S. Costanzo] in this part of the country. It is white with 4 white towers…back to boat. Sat in the boat looking at view. Finally got so cold we went to the stern.

Got in at 6:30 went to see agency about tickets for Amalfi drive. Will take us three for $27. We had our lunch on the steamer before getting off at Capri.

Found a letter from Florence. She has to leave her place and is at a doctor at Fiesole. She wants to take a house at Asolo near Venice for a week.

Travel Planning and Naples Museum

Got up in time to have b’fast with Miss Wilt and Miss Peet. I hate these English b’fasts and I am to have an egg after this.

Went with them to American Express Office which was closed and then to Cooks where I cashed $10 check and then they inquired about the Amalfi trip. We met the Maims and the Torchkiss at Cook. We went to the Museum and had a guide who showed us the bronzes from the Mediterranean and Pompeii.



Then I took a train back and got here at 1.20, had lunch and talked an hour or so with a Miss Ferris who used to live in Stamford, Conn.*, a guest in the house.

Then I took a book by Anna K. Green, The Woman in the Alcove, and lay down and fell asleep.

Mrs. Dickens came in to tell me that Mrs. Hodgen and her daughter and Pen were there so I had a pleasant chat with them. They go to Rome tomorrow. At dinner we had a funny time but we did get along all right. Miss Wilt did not come to dinner but Miss Peet did and I went down to see her afterwards. Pen had been on the Amalfi drive and told us about it - expensive. We decided to go to Capri tomorrow if the weather is good.

No letters.

*Jennie’s father, Richard Thurston was minister in Stamford and died there in 1895.

Posillipo and Hotel Bertolini*, Naples

Easter Sunday

I could not tell the time so I did not know when to get up but I decided to have my breakfast in bed. I stole out and put a note under Miss Wilt’s cup and ask her to come and see me. It was then 5.40. Took a sponge bath - waited for the maid - rang and she brought it in at 8.20 - coffee, rolls, marmalade and I had a big apple too.

Then Miss Wilt and Miss Peet came in and we had a talk over plans. They are going sightseeing but I can’t - too tired. Dressed and started for San Pasquale**, the street of the English church. The conductor carried me beyond but I walked back and was a little late in that account.

Big bunches of calla lilies and white fleur de lis. The acoustic properties are not good and I sat in the rear so I lost a good deal. Walked home through the Park. Found letter from Pen and one from Mrs. Hodgen apologizing for hurrying away from the pier. They went to Pompeii Friday afternoon and then took the Sorrento drive. Reach Naples tomorrow AM and leave for Rome in the PM, asked me to go but can’t. Wrote Mrs. Hodgen to that effect.

At 3.40 Miss. Wilt, Miss Peet and I went out to drive. We went to Posillipo, Vomero, Via Tasso to Bertolini’s.* Beautiful views of the bay and surrounding country and of Vesuvius.

Then to Bertolini’s*. We went up in the lift and had tea on the broad piazza. It certainly was a wonderful view. Finest in the world, Florence B.*** says. The trains do not run today because it is Easter so we kept our carriage and rode home reaching there at 6.40.


Put on my black silk for dinner. Sat next to a man who has been twice in America. We had a nice family party at supper and talked about everything. Very nice dinner. I only ate a little. Miss Peet did not come to dinner so after dinner I went to see her. Trip cost 1.24 each.

*Bertolini’s Palace Hotel in Naples, no longer in existence as such. Here is its current incarnation
** Christ Church, Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 15b
***Her sister