Last Look at Naples

I slept well. It was nearly nine before I went down to b’fast, but to my surprise found I was the first one there. Helen went to the boat to see about steamer chairs and the stewardess while Florence and I went to White Star Line to try to change our stateroom and also to secure seats at the table which we did – first table. Then we went to Am. Consulate and registered and Florence asked how she should get the rest of her money that is in the state dep’t after she returns to America. Everyone seems to be sailing on the Canopic.* About 450 they said at the consul’s.

After lunch, had a nap. Florence and I were going to San Martino and invited Helen and Mrs. Addison to go but they declined so we started alone. It was too late to go to San Martino as it closes at 4, so we went to Posillipo Cape – in tram No. 2. It was a beautiful drive overlooking the water. We came back in the same car and went to the Galleria Umberto Primo where we sat and watched the people and Florence treated me to an ice. Then we had to come back.

At dinner Florence held the 5 months old German baby. It is bright and cunning. At 9.15 the chambermaid brought a big pitcher of hot water and I washed my hair and chatted with Mrs. Addison. It is nearly midnight and it isn’t dry yet.

I had a nice letter from Hazel – No. 14. In it she said their old car had been acting so that they had bought a Cadillac self starter.** I am so glad.

*When war broke out in August of 1914, many of the great opera personalities of the time were in Europe. By late autumn, getting out of Europe wasn’t so easy. But the steamship would become known as “Opera’s Noah’s Ark” when stars such as Enrico Caruso, Geraldine Farrar, Antonio Scotti, conductor Arturo Toscanini, and theater manager Giulio Gatti-Casazza, among others, made their way from various points on the continent to return to North America. The Canopic passage is represented in Act II, Scene I of Visi d'Arti. (from history of Visi d'Arti.)
**The “self-starter” was introduced on Cadillac as standard equipment in 1912.

Posillipo and Hotel Bertolini*, Naples

Easter Sunday

I could not tell the time so I did not know when to get up but I decided to have my breakfast in bed. I stole out and put a note under Miss Wilt’s cup and ask her to come and see me. It was then 5.40. Took a sponge bath - waited for the maid - rang and she brought it in at 8.20 - coffee, rolls, marmalade and I had a big apple too.

Then Miss Wilt and Miss Peet came in and we had a talk over plans. They are going sightseeing but I can’t - too tired. Dressed and started for San Pasquale**, the street of the English church. The conductor carried me beyond but I walked back and was a little late in that account.

Big bunches of calla lilies and white fleur de lis. The acoustic properties are not good and I sat in the rear so I lost a good deal. Walked home through the Park. Found letter from Pen and one from Mrs. Hodgen apologizing for hurrying away from the pier. They went to Pompeii Friday afternoon and then took the Sorrento drive. Reach Naples tomorrow AM and leave for Rome in the PM, asked me to go but can’t. Wrote Mrs. Hodgen to that effect.

At 3.40 Miss. Wilt, Miss Peet and I went out to drive. We went to Posillipo, Vomero, Via Tasso to Bertolini’s.* Beautiful views of the bay and surrounding country and of Vesuvius.

Then to Bertolini’s*. We went up in the lift and had tea on the broad piazza. It certainly was a wonderful view. Finest in the world, Florence B.*** says. The trains do not run today because it is Easter so we kept our carriage and rode home reaching there at 6.40.


Put on my black silk for dinner. Sat next to a man who has been twice in America. We had a nice family party at supper and talked about everything. Very nice dinner. I only ate a little. Miss Peet did not come to dinner so after dinner I went to see her. Trip cost 1.24 each.

*Bertolini’s Palace Hotel in Naples, no longer in existence as such. Here is its current incarnation
** Christ Church, Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 15b
***Her sister