Last chance for Pompeii

I felt quite tired when I woke but I made up my mind I would go to Pompeii as it would be my last chance. Caught the 10:30 train but could not get a seat by the window. Sat down outside the entrance gate & read Baedeker.



Made up my mind to ride in a chair which I did. The men stopped every few minutes so the distance I covered in two hours was not great. Went through the street of Tombs and also into the house of Diomedes which is a wonderful one and saw the reservoir.


The hour was up but I took then another hour and went into the new part and saw three houses. - Saw the pot over the fire and the five skeletons lying as they were found. Vesuvius is so far away that it seems as if it were impossible for it to have caused this disaster. Paid the men 1.80.


Then walked to the last house, ate my lunch at 2 P.M. Train left at 3:30 so walked to station. Train was late, did not get to Naples till 5 P.M. Then walked for an hour along the street to see the shops and people. Finally took No. 3 train and came home.

Found a letter from Florence Humphrey. She has moved again to Pension Le Lune. I lay down till dinner. A brother and sister from Canada are here. Four languages are heard at the table-French, English, German Italian. Very tired. Mrs. Dickens does not move till Saturday.

Posillipo and Hotel Bertolini*, Naples

Easter Sunday

I could not tell the time so I did not know when to get up but I decided to have my breakfast in bed. I stole out and put a note under Miss Wilt’s cup and ask her to come and see me. It was then 5.40. Took a sponge bath - waited for the maid - rang and she brought it in at 8.20 - coffee, rolls, marmalade and I had a big apple too.

Then Miss Wilt and Miss Peet came in and we had a talk over plans. They are going sightseeing but I can’t - too tired. Dressed and started for San Pasquale**, the street of the English church. The conductor carried me beyond but I walked back and was a little late in that account.

Big bunches of calla lilies and white fleur de lis. The acoustic properties are not good and I sat in the rear so I lost a good deal. Walked home through the Park. Found letter from Pen and one from Mrs. Hodgen apologizing for hurrying away from the pier. They went to Pompeii Friday afternoon and then took the Sorrento drive. Reach Naples tomorrow AM and leave for Rome in the PM, asked me to go but can’t. Wrote Mrs. Hodgen to that effect.

At 3.40 Miss. Wilt, Miss Peet and I went out to drive. We went to Posillipo, Vomero, Via Tasso to Bertolini’s.* Beautiful views of the bay and surrounding country and of Vesuvius.

Then to Bertolini’s*. We went up in the lift and had tea on the broad piazza. It certainly was a wonderful view. Finest in the world, Florence B.*** says. The trains do not run today because it is Easter so we kept our carriage and rode home reaching there at 6.40.


Put on my black silk for dinner. Sat next to a man who has been twice in America. We had a nice family party at supper and talked about everything. Very nice dinner. I only ate a little. Miss Peet did not come to dinner so after dinner I went to see her. Trip cost 1.24 each.

*Bertolini’s Palace Hotel in Naples, no longer in existence as such. Here is its current incarnation
** Christ Church, Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 15b
***Her sister

Arrive at Naples

Slept pretty well - but woke up before seven. - Had my hot salt-water bath - dressed, finished packing - paid my fees and bills, said goodbye to everyone I knew. Gave the two baskets of fruit to a girl in the steerage - watched Ischia and the shores of the bay and Mt. Vesuvius and then the city of Naples until we came into the dock.

Pen saw her friends and went off with them. We could not find the porter with Alexandra Hotel in his cap and I asked another man who said he was his brother, but I wouldn’t go with him and we had a great time. Cook’s man got mixed up in it and the Metropole man and the Alexandra man who was very small and spoke French. He said they could take Miss Wilt and Miss Peet and Mrs. Merrill.

They took us through the customs - they never examined a thing - and we got into a carriage and drove it seemed for hours till we came to Via Margellina and the Alexandra House.* On the third floor we found Mrs. Dickens who was very nice, stout, short-hair elaborately done up. She said she could take Miss Wilt and Miss Peet, but not Mrs. M. but said she could send her to a nice pension near by.

I have the same room Florence** had - a double window, huge wardrobe with mirror door, two beds, light stand, huge bureau, washstand for two oblong tables, easy chair, two small ordinary chairs and two electric lights. Very comfortable. We had lunch, a very good one and then we went to see Miss Wilt’s room. It is on first floor and seemed damp, double bed in it, wardrobe, washstand. There is a porter at the door who sits in the place and there are broad marble stairs, an elevator which they charge 10 cts. to use.

Went to see where Mrs. M. is, block from here, very nice. Then they sent to Cook’s for mail and I came back and lay down till six when I got up, unpacked some of my things, changed for dinner. Felt much better and less homesick. Had a nice dinner, six courses. After dinner Mrs. Dickens gave us a paper to fill out for the police. We talked a while. Mrs. Merrill’s friends had come from Constantinople. I had a letter from Florence. She is at another pension. Tells me to take my time which I will do.

*Probably Alexandra House, 37 Via Mergellina, Naples. English Pension.
**This is her older sister, Florence Humphries, with whom she eventually meets up.


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