Last Look at Naples

I slept well. It was nearly nine before I went down to b’fast, but to my surprise found I was the first one there. Helen went to the boat to see about steamer chairs and the stewardess while Florence and I went to White Star Line to try to change our stateroom and also to secure seats at the table which we did – first table. Then we went to Am. Consulate and registered and Florence asked how she should get the rest of her money that is in the state dep’t after she returns to America. Everyone seems to be sailing on the Canopic.* About 450 they said at the consul’s.

After lunch, had a nap. Florence and I were going to San Martino and invited Helen and Mrs. Addison to go but they declined so we started alone. It was too late to go to San Martino as it closes at 4, so we went to Posillipo Cape – in tram No. 2. It was a beautiful drive overlooking the water. We came back in the same car and went to the Galleria Umberto Primo where we sat and watched the people and Florence treated me to an ice. Then we had to come back.

At dinner Florence held the 5 months old German baby. It is bright and cunning. At 9.15 the chambermaid brought a big pitcher of hot water and I washed my hair and chatted with Mrs. Addison. It is nearly midnight and it isn’t dry yet.

I had a nice letter from Hazel – No. 14. In it she said their old car had been acting so that they had bought a Cadillac self starter.** I am so glad.

*When war broke out in August of 1914, many of the great opera personalities of the time were in Europe. By late autumn, getting out of Europe wasn’t so easy. But the steamship would become known as “Opera’s Noah’s Ark” when stars such as Enrico Caruso, Geraldine Farrar, Antonio Scotti, conductor Arturo Toscanini, and theater manager Giulio Gatti-Casazza, among others, made their way from various points on the continent to return to North America. The Canopic passage is represented in Act II, Scene I of Visi d'Arti. (from history of Visi d'Arti.)
**The “self-starter” was introduced on Cadillac as standard equipment in 1912.

Nativity of the Virgin

Slept pretty well. Mosquitoes bothered me. Soldiers are marching past. Did not have b’fast till nine o’clock so many little fussy things to do. I was the last one in the dining room. Then went to White Star Line and paid for the balance of the passage on Canopic for Florence, Helen and myself – and was pleased to know that it was 34 francs less than I thought. Met some people I knew at the Conte. Hunted up a place to have my corsets washed. Came home and sewed till lunch. Nothing I could eat at lunch so had two eggs. Then lay down for nearly three hours. I was so tired. Part of the time slept, part of the time Conan Doyle’s Round the Red Lamp. Went to the station to meet Florence, Helen, and Mrs. Addison. Found they had had a jolly time coming down. Florence and Helen went up in the carriage and I waited ¾ of an hour with Mrs. Addison for her trunk, but it had not come on the train so we had to leave without. Florence and Helen have front rooms – second floor.

We had a very poor dinner. Florence went out to see Mr. Muller about it - got no satisfaction. Said he was losing $60 a day – would soon close. There was a fiesta here tonight – the Nativity of the Virgin – and Helen and Mrs. Addison and I went to see it. We walked way up to the Toretta. It was principally observed by young men and boys blowing tin horns incessantly. Crowds were in the streets and there were multitudes of small stands where they sold everything ginger bread horses – all things of prepared food, first principally grapes and figs – tables with cactus fruit which must grow here very plentifully. – I saw a few pomegranates and quinces – horns of course – toys – dry goods and laces – everything exposed for sale. The crowd was good natured. There were the long curled up toys that straighten out when you blow and a young girl blew one twice at Helen and made her jump – which greatly amused them. Got the car home. It was 11.20 before we got in. I was so tired I slept – but I think the horns were going all night – as I could hear one once in a while.

More War News and More Shopping

A very busy day beginning at 5.45. The little milliner came at 8.45 with shapes for me to wear – also samples of velvet. Chose a shape and ordered the best black velvet – all at cost of 30 francs for the hat. It was brought this evening and is very pretty. Then I went out and bought some bread and cake for tomorrow’s lunch. Naomi sent back Marion’s lace, beautifully done. Mrs. Zupponi came and went to the bank with me and I drew $50 and deposited $200.

Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.

After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.

Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.

Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.

*Academia di Belle Arti

War News, Conclave, Errands, Getting Ready,

The Conclave for electing the new Pope begins today – and the Re’d Italia sails for America. I slept very well but am tired from my walk of yesterday.

Florence B. H. is very weak from her illness and has nearly fainted several times – nevertheless, she did a lot of packing. Mme. Zupponi came to see her this morning. I went to Am. Consul’s and found both the Sant Anna and Oceana had cancelled sailing – the latter I was told because they asked too much. No one knew whether the Canopia would sail so I did not send cable.

Went to tailor’s and watched Helen and F. get fitted while I read two Eng. papers I had bought. Then we chose a blue serge for me. F.B.H. said I looked cross and ugly and as if I could eat her up. I guess I did. She got on my nerves – came back to lunch and then I went out again with Helen and sent cable to Margaret – William Morse, Amherst, Massachusetts.
Together, safe – sail Canopic Hincks – 8 words cost $2.50. Then changed F’s dictionary for a better one. Left M’s* lace to be cleaned. Went to Italian chemist and got a prescription filled for F.B.H. went to Settipassi about lava cameo that John** gave me – and came home. Lay down and slept a while before dinner. Little girl came and brought two waists that Pia made – sleeves too short.
Germans within 80 kilometers of Paris. This war is terrible.
Had a letter from Mrs. Oudesluys from Cortina. She seems to have no idea of the situation and I haven’t much myself.

*Maybe a gift for her daughter Margaret or sister Marion.
**Probably John Howard Hincks, her late husband.

War News, Money Difficulties, Shopping,

Bought 8 postals and wrote to all the family saying we were to sail on White Star Line “Canopic” Sept. 10th and mailed them. Hope they will go out on the Re d’Italia Aug. 31st.

Did not leave house until 11.15, then with my feather over to the little milliner. Then met Mrs. [blank] on the Ponte Vecchio. We waited a while for Helen and while waiting she introduced me to an Italian who has a jewelry store in Boston. He hates the climate and wants to return. He says times are terribly hard in the U.S. on account of politics.

Then we went to see the lace. She said she would bring it to show Florence at one. Met Helen and went to the Pia sisters and looked at waists. Brought one back to show Florence – afterwards went back and ordered two for 12 fr. each. Mrs. [blank] came and I bought the collar and ordered cuffs to match. F.T.H. brought one home and letters from home. It was such a treat. She had one from Marion.* She had sent her $500.

Hazel and Percy had cabled me $250 – July 31st and I had never been notified. I went right around to French Lemon & Co. – the clerk said it had not been sent to them but to a bank and they had sent to F.L. and Co. for my address and it had been given in Milan – but I never heard of the money. He did not remember what bank it was in. Went to Banca Commerciale – They did not know of the money – said if I did not need it to let it alone and it would be returned to the sender. Helen got her steamer reservation and paid deposit. Saw Mrs. Addison – she has her bank and is all right for money.

Went to tailor’s for samples was measured for suit. Met Helen going back and I took F’s prescriptions over to the druggists. They cost $1.00 – went into 48 centime store. Coming back looked into Cook’s and saw Helen. Waited 15 minutes for her to come out. Florence felt so badly she did not go to dinner. Her face all swollen from the toothache.

After dinner sat with her till 10.30. She and Helen read the paper while I sewed on the boudoir cap. Mrs. Addison said she heard that perhaps neither the Canopic not the French boat – Sant’Anna – for the 14th would sail. They say the Germans have sown the ocean with fire mines. It is dangerous to go or stay. Bought 2 N.Y. Heralds.

There was a great ringing of the Duomo bell. The signora said it was on account of the Pope’s death. Big service tomorrow. Everything is very cheap and there are wonderful bargains but no money. Big demonstrations somewhere tonight. We were too tired to go. A note from Penelope. She goes home steerage.

Money, Shopping, and Tickets Home

Woke up at 6. Florence has adjoining room and we talked till time to dress. Went up to b’fast at 8. Then started off for Am. Consul’s to learn news – see if Am. Express checks were good and to buy my dress. Found that Bryan advised all Americans to return as soon as possible for fear of naval battles where the seas might not be safe. Looked up the Re d’Italia. She was such a small boat – did not like her. Am. Express checks are good.

We bought a lovely lace and net and emb. collar for 22 francs. Went to two stores, bought a cashmere silk for 11 fr. a yd., 2 extra yds. for alterations. Took my hat to have feathers extended and recurled and F. took a piece of silk there and they will dye them to match. Then we met Mrs. Zeppone and Helen and Mrs. Z. went to the bank with me and found I could get my S.F. check cashed for 823 fr. and 83 centimes which I received. Hurried home and found the little dressmaker here. Going up in the elevator saw Mr. McLaughlan of San Grinignane in the boat. Spoke to him and he thought I was Florence. I said she would be back soon as she had an appointment. She soon came in and I went down and had my dress fitted. She comes tomorrow to fit it. Went up to see the McLaughlans. Found they had come to offer Florence 2 berths in the Canopic given up by a lady who wishes to sail on the Fabre liner, the Sant’Anna.* We said we could go down at 4.30 to see her.

Lay down after lunch and got up at 3. Helen came in She came in and said she would do what we said but I said she much decide for herself. Went to Cook’s, found they expected more berths on Canopic. We put our names down, first choice. Then Mrs. McL. came in and the one who had two Canopic tickets to sell. She had half promised them to someone else and she was frantic when she found we had taken them. Got talking to her afterwards and found she was a Mrs. Addison who knew Alice Blaney when she was a little girl. She felt very bitterly, but was more reconciled when she found that Florence was really sick. Was talking to her at Am. Consuls when F. came alone. The Consul had sent for her. Someone had cabled her money, but the consulate was closed. We went home. I washed out some things and F. lay in my bed. Then dinner and we came downstairs again. F. and Helen very tired and went to bed.

The news in the papers is very bad. Germany is defeating the Allied armies. It is said she has taken the low countries.

*In 1914, the SS Sant’Anna was one of 11 ships, including eight liners owned by Fabre Line. It was commissioned for the transport of troops, and later torpedoed in 1918 near Bizerte (Tunisia) with 2,000 passengers.

Milan: Pope's Funeral. Last Minute Sightseeing, and Consula Notice

Helen and I went to the Duomo to the service in honor of the dead Pope. The church was draped in black – the music was fine. Cardinal [blank] was there and preached from a pulpit hung with red. There was a large crowd. We stood on chairs for over an hour then left while the cardinal was preaching.

Went to Thomas Cooks, found out about trains. We shall have to leave at 7 A.M. and go 2nd class as the next train does not start till 1.15 for change at Boulogne [Bologna] and do not get in till nearly or after midnight – so many trains have been taken off. We paid for the trunks Helen’s and Florence’s and ordered them sent to the station at S.P.W. Monday. Then it will cost us 29 + for 2nd class as against 19+ 3rd class. Went to White Star office. They offer Canopic at 475 lire first class four in an outside room. 52 pounds for two in a room.

We had our usual lunch and started out to find Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. It was beautiful. Then we looked around the cloisters and the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie* and walked to the Castello**. We did not go into it for it began to thunder and we hurried home and got in just as it began to pour.

Found in coming back a notice to Americans about transportation from Genoa. I got mad at Helen over it and jumped at her three times and stamped my foot and acted like a crazy fool and she behaved very well. I was tired and I think the succession of thunderstorms (one almost every day) got on my nerves. Made 3 copies of the consular notice and sent one to Mrs. Oudesluys in Cortina and one to Mrs. Tanner in Lauerine and one “express” to Florence in Florence to see if it might change her plans and asked her to telegraph answer. Helen and I went way to the post office to mail it.

*Famous church in Milan which is the location of the Last Supper.
**Castello Sforzesco - a Renaissance castle in Milan with large art holdings.

Death of Pope

The Pope is dead. Late in starting from the fact that I did not sleep well and I am tired. Helen had a poor night. I was in with her after midnight and fixed her peppermint and hot water. Finally got off about 11 and left the milk bottle. Saw some splendid peaches in the street. Thought Alfred would want me to have them so bought them and then our usual supplies of milk eggs and rolls and came back to the house.

Found a telegram from F.B.H. saying, “Consul advises sailing on Canopic* Sept. 10th - Am booking places.” Well I was struck off of a heap and felt old and discouraged and all my ambition gone. I don’t want to go back for I shall never come again. Read it to Helen. – She is half pleased to go. We went out together and went to the Scala Theatre and saw behind the scenes and to the Council Chamber in the Palazzo Marini. Mailed home letters. Went into Duomo - then home to lunch. Then I had Italian lesson, very good one and then I went out tram riding. Took the Circum?? at Porta Venezia and went all around then took car the wrong way and had another ride. Had a note from the Oudesluys. They are still at Cortina. Also a letter to Florence which I forwarded. It had been sent on from Amherst. We had a nice dinner here in the house – soup, roast beef, and stewed peaches – I read all the stories in the volume I have of Conon Doyle’s around the fire. Most of them are gruesome.

*S.S. Canopic of the White Star Line