Nativity of the Virgin

Slept pretty well. Mosquitoes bothered me. Soldiers are marching past. Did not have b’fast till nine o’clock so many little fussy things to do. I was the last one in the dining room. Then went to White Star Line and paid for the balance of the passage on Canopic for Florence, Helen and myself – and was pleased to know that it was 34 francs less than I thought. Met some people I knew at the Conte. Hunted up a place to have my corsets washed. Came home and sewed till lunch. Nothing I could eat at lunch so had two eggs. Then lay down for nearly three hours. I was so tired. Part of the time slept, part of the time Conan Doyle’s Round the Red Lamp. Went to the station to meet Florence, Helen, and Mrs. Addison. Found they had had a jolly time coming down. Florence and Helen went up in the carriage and I waited ¾ of an hour with Mrs. Addison for her trunk, but it had not come on the train so we had to leave without. Florence and Helen have front rooms – second floor.

We had a very poor dinner. Florence went out to see Mr. Muller about it - got no satisfaction. Said he was losing $60 a day – would soon close. There was a fiesta here tonight – the Nativity of the Virgin – and Helen and Mrs. Addison and I went to see it. We walked way up to the Toretta. It was principally observed by young men and boys blowing tin horns incessantly. Crowds were in the streets and there were multitudes of small stands where they sold everything ginger bread horses – all things of prepared food, first principally grapes and figs – tables with cactus fruit which must grow here very plentifully. – I saw a few pomegranates and quinces – horns of course – toys – dry goods and laces – everything exposed for sale. The crowd was good natured. There were the long curled up toys that straighten out when you blow and a young girl blew one twice at Helen and made her jump – which greatly amused them. Got the car home. It was 11.20 before we got in. I was so tired I slept – but I think the horns were going all night – as I could hear one once in a while.

Sunday in Naples

I slept well, but am still tired. This precious hotel does not furnish hot water. Miss Wolff tried to quarrel with me over the war, but I wouldn’t argue. Honey for breakfast!!

At 10.20 started out to telegraph Florence and to go to the English church which I knew was near. Sent F. this telegram. “Come third. 20 minutes at Rome. Take corridor car. Be sure ticket has date stamped in lower corner.” Then started for church. Turned too soon and had to inquire and finally was escorted by a very nice Italian woman to a closed church where French and German services were held not to be opened until Oct. 1. Then I went back to the main street running along the park and found a girl who told me where the church was. I was 20 minutes late but I like to go to church. It does me good. Walked home going into a church on the way.

Took a nap after lunch. Then went out and took a long tram ride that the hotel clerk recommended – No. 6 – over the hill and along the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and returned the same way. Walked back from the Toretta along the water. It was beautiful.

After dinner wrote part of a letter to Percy and read some of an Italian paper by means of a dictionary, but was so tired I had to give up and go to bed.