Slept very well – did not wake up till 8.30. We were very lazy and had breakfast before we dressed – then dressed slowly. It was 11.30 before we started out.
We went to the P.O. first and got our last Daily Mail – July 31st. Then took a train to St. Zeno Piazza – we went into the church* which was closed but I lent the sacristan the morning paper and we glanced around the church. It was very interesting and I studied it out with Baedecker, but I’ve forgotten already what it looked like. The old doors with old bronze reliefs were most interesting and so were the two lions that supported the front pillars of the portico.
Then we went outside the city gate near by and saw the old fortifications and the dried up moat. Then we took a train and went to Piazza San Trino way the other end of the line. It was a beautiful ride and all for two cents. Then we came back as far as our street the “four ??” “Quattro spade” and got home about two.
Then Helen and I got lunch – eggs and peaches and hot milk for me and malted milk for Helen. Then we took a nap and at 5.30 started out again – we went to the Duomo and across the old Roman bridge Pietra and to see the remnants of the Roman theatre and to San Giorgio [in] Braida and then came back to the hotel where I saw the proprietors and paid our bill in full.
Then we had dinner at 8 P.M. and came up to pack our things.
I cannot find out much about the conditions of the war. It seems that one of the Vanderbilts is here and has chartered a steamer and takes back 440 Americans among them Pres. Buller [Butler] of Columbia Univ**. The boat sails the 12th.
*Basilica di San Zeno **Nicolas Murray Butler, President of Columbia University, 1901-1945.
Showing posts with label Verona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Verona. Show all posts
Sunday, August 9
Saturday, August 8
Visit to opera and sightseeing in Verona. News that Lieges is taken
We all had b’fast in the large bedroom and at 9.30 Florence left for Florence. Helen went to the P.O., found a letter from Thos. Cook & Son, Milan saying the missing trunks were there so she took it right to the station to show Florence.
Then Helen and I went out to walk. We went to San Maggiore and around by the Duomo and by the Amphitheatre house. We had lunch in our own room – mine was hot-bread and milk. I did not feel at all well and I slipped on the polished tiling and fell.
We lay down and had a good rest and about five went out to walk again. We bought tickets for the opera tonight in the amphitheatre and took a car ride to Porta Santa Nuova and back. Dinner was late. Then we came upstairs and got our thick things.
I went to the opera.* Helen took her steamer rug and we sat on the broad stone seats and watched the opera. It was wonderful and I enjoyed it very much and would have more if I had not been so sleepy. The stage was so large it made a splendid setting and the moon rose and shone over all. There were a great many in the lire seats. There were a great many performers and the orchestra was good. It was over at 12.07 – we went home after waiting till the greater part of the crowd had gone.
It was 1.30 before we got to bed. I hear that Lieges is taken by the Germans.
*Carmen
Friday, August 7
Peaches in Verona and more war news
We had b’fast together. Helen boiled eggs and we had cut up peaches. Then we all went out to see something of the town.
We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.
She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.
F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.
We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.
She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.
F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.
Thursday, August 6
Venice to Verona
Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.
It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.
A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.
They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.
Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.
We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.
It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.
A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.
They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.
Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.
We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.
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