Sightseeing in Milan

I slept well and feel better, but my back still aches. Had b’fast in bed and then my bath. Studied Italian grammar hard for an hour. Helen went out and came back about one. She got 200 lire in her letter of credit at the Bianco Cos??? No letter at Thomas Cook and Sons from Florence. She went to the consul’s and had the error in the date of her registration certificate changed. He had written it to expire at once. Helen said it was posted in Am. consul’s office steerage passage to America $150.

She went out a second time to get milk and rolls and we had lunch in my room. It cost us each nine cents – milk, an egg, rolls, cake, no fruit. We have the greatest time over our money. We settle up every night before we go to bed and often two or three times a day – one pays for the other, or buys food re. – Lunch was not over till after three. Then we both lay down.

We went out about 5.30, went to the Piazza del Duomo and took a car no. 10 and rode to the end and back and then we were looking for a restaurant that Miss Betham told us about and lo! There was Dr. Giglioli, jolly, nice as ever – asked about Florence and admired our going to a cooler place – Said he thought Italy would remain neutral – Said he thought this war was all the fault of Germany – that England would beat Germany on the sea – that Germany would beat France on land and that Russia would eventually beat Germany and Austria for she was the only great nation that raised all her own food. –

Dr. G took us to a quiet restaurant where he goes and Helen and I sat out of doors and had a quiet dinner. Then we sat awhile and I tried to read an Italian newspaper. Then we walked about and at nine sat in front of the caffé Biffe and listened to the music for an hour and had an ice. Met the Misses Betham coming back – we chatted for a while upstairs. We are to have dinner with them tomorrow.

A Fete Day

Did not feel as tired as I expected so went with Helen and Mrs. Moore to the Duomo to see the service. We could not get very near but it was gorgeous with the archbishop and all his riches. I thought it was the adoration of the archbishop. We hung over the choir railing and I saw them go out. Then we went around and waited to see the time strike a circle on a brass plate in the left transept.* I think it passed above it.

Came back. After lunch had a good sleep for over an hour. Florence Humphrey came and we went out. Did a few errands and when we went to Piazza Victor Emmanuele and saw Helen and Miss Kinney there and we sat down and had ice cream and cafes and Florence fed four children and an old man. I walked almost back with Florence when she said she must go and so she went back to the Duomo. I wanted her to go to the Pension Crocini and look at the rooms for next winter.



Signora Crocini said the Duomo would be illuminated at 9 – the only day in the year it is done and said we could see it here. We waited till 9.30 and then Mrs. Moore, Miss Kinney and I started. We got to Piazza V.E. and the Duomo with red lights and fireworks on it so then we tried to walk there, but we got into an awful jam so we came back, listened to two pieces of music and came back in the cars. Mrs. Moore and Miss Kinney came back about 15 minutes before us.

Went to Mrs. Hubbell’s room and got telling stories, laughing and it was 11.40 before I left and one o’clock before I got to bed.

*Probably the huge mechanical clock decorated by Paolo Uccello

Festival of the Cricket in Florence

Florence* was married a year ago today.

As usual lately I did not sleep well and therefore slept late. Florence came into my room at 8:15 o’clock to ask me if I did not want to go to the Park in Florence to the cricket festival.** She said it began at 4. She said she did not feel well enough to go but thought I would enjoy it, but as I was not dressed and it was late and I would have to go alone, I declined.

I had b’fast in bed and began to read Le [Lupine?] by Eugene Sue with the help of a dictionary. Then at 9:45 Helen called up and wanted me to go to the Festival and I said I could get dressed and start in half an hour which I did.

I got to the Duomo** a little ahead of Helen. We took a # 5 car and went out to the Park and walked up and down watching the people and the children and the people who sold things to eat, the men who sold toys and especially the ones who sold crickets.


There were thousands and thousands of poor crickets in boxes and pans? But especially in little cages of every hue and color. I bought one for 8 cents, also a flying machine and a clacker. We walked up and down several times there as the crowd rapidly thinned we sat down and talked about everything and everybody. Helen defends her conduct of last Tuesday, saying she acted in a conscientious manner. She apparently cannot see that she was mean and untruthful and deceiving. She said she felt ill and I begged her to put herself under the care of a good doctor, but she won’t. She seemed to have no discipline, no will power left. I tried to talk to her and advise her but it was of no use and I shall just try again. We stayed in the park until 3, then took a car back to town and then went to a tea room where I had ice cream and cake and Helen had caffe latte and cakes. I ate 5. We paid 1 fr. 20 cent. a piece as caffe latte costs more than ice cream.

Then Helen took me as guest [on a] most beautiful drive over the Viale de Colli. It was through a most beautiful country where you had a wonderful view of the city. Then we came down to the Duomo and I took the car home. The drive was Helen’s treat and cost a dollar. I brought the cricket home and let it out of the box.

Florence was here. I bought some “American molasses candy” which was rancid and awfully poor. I told her all about the day and the conversations. Some new people have come to the pension and 3 automobile loads came up and had dinner on the terrace.

I found a nice letter here from Alfred. Sat in F’s room after dinner playing solitaire and knitting.

The people on the terrace made such a noise I could not sleep till late.

*Her daughter, Florence Thurston Hincks, was married May 21, 1913 to Thomas Frederick Sanford, a professor of English at the University of California.
**the Duomo of Florence, also known as the Cathedral of Florence or Santa Maria del Fiore
**In late April or May, the annual cricket festival, Festa del Grillo, is held in the Cascine Park in Florence.**