Low Spirits

After I fell asleep, I slept pretty well. I was very tired when I woke up and I suppose I should have stayed in bed, but I got up and dressed, got talking with Florence about P.W., money - income re.re. Looked over my things and packed my trunk. Took me all the afternoon and I felt tired. I did not pack at all well. I mean to get as few things as possible.

Florence went down town and bought a very pretty little tea kettle.

They had a big dinner here for a club of 45 men. The table looked very pretty.

After dinner the Oudersluys came in and showed us some things they had bought and postals. Told us about Holland. I would like to go there. Then I played a game of Sequence with Florence. Beat her.

I feel millions of years old, tired and half sick and not very happy. My eyes are bothering me too and I supposed I ought not to use them. I was too old to come to Europe.

Military Review at the Caserne

Rained in the night. The Italians’ Fourth of July. I woke up at 6:10 and dressed and was ready before seven, went into F’s [Florence's] room and found her in bed. She was afraid to go after the rain. Went out, found Elina who said the rain was to be at 9 a.m. I ordered b’fast. F.B.H. had hers in my room in my bed. I got ready taking my medicine bag with me. And went to get Helen, found her dressed, left my bag there to take to the new place on Tuesday. She had paid and we started for the Caserne to see the Review which we heard was to be at 10.

Streets were filled with people with highly colored dresses and we saw companies of soldiers as we walked on in the Park finding all the fences along the race course turned into impromptu grandstands with benches or chairs on them to rent, but all were taken. Finally we walked up to the real grandstand where admittance was 2 L. I was going to pay when an Italian gentleman took us through on his ticket. I bought two Santa Croce pins for Helen and me. Then as the grandstand was filled, we found places by the procession front where we could look over the heads of those in front.

We saw a big green field filled with companies of infantry and cavalry, so many soldiers or officers on horseback in gorgeous uniforms, the Commanding General and his aides. He rode up and down five times and appeared to be inspecting the different companies and then something went on in the center that we couldn’t see but all the people who were standing went across the fields and stood near the general and his staff. After half an hour or so, we went over too and got a place in the second roof where we could see well. The General and his aides rode back and wheeled around, not far from us, 4 officers, one with gorgeous epaulets and 3 lieutenants - 2 I should judge-stood by the General who was on horseback and one private stood out about 10 ft.- and faced all the infantry review.

Then all the regiments passed in review, saluting and being saluted by the general infantry, Red Cross, bicycle, motor cycle cavalry. It was a brilliant spectacle.

We turned up the Park to take a tram and passed a field where there were lots of tents with the Red Cross on them. We went all through them and were intensely interested in them. Saw the men working. Just missed a car and had to wait 20 minutes. Just caught a Fiesole car. Terribly crowded.

Got back at 1:50 and had lunch. Came up and told F. all about it. Then went in to lie down. I slept an hour. We were to go to Fiesole but I was too tired to do it. So sat in her room and watched her pack the trunk she is to put in storage. She showed me lots of her pretty things. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter Hortense* came in and sat a long time.

Spent the evening talking together and watching the illumination of the Tower of Vecchio Palace. Tried to write to the family, but I was too sleepy.

*Hortense Oudesluys was born Dec. 1893 and died on Oct. 31, 1992 according to the US census. In the 1916 “Biological Bulletin” put out by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, MA., she is mentioned as a teacher at Western High School, Baltimore, Maryland.

Cinemattograph

It did rain about 9 so I gave up my trip to Florence where I was going to spend the day with Helen. I had breakfast in bed. However it cleared off at 10 so I made up my mind to go. Dressed and got to the Montebello to find Helen. Waited an hour reading the papers. Helen came in at one and we decided to have lunch there instead of going to that queer place under a palace.

Then we went to the Pension Crocini* and I engaged a room at 6 frs., 2 frs. extra for light, beginning next Tuesday. Then we went to a store to look at some dresses and didn’t like them and we wandered around the shops, finally ending at the Cinemattograph. It was called “La Tormenota” .We had to wait outside till the end of the act and then went in and saw the whole thing which took two hours. People leaving and entering every 10 minutes or so. It was a highly dramatic, sensational and emotional melo-drama, but I enjoyed it, the novelty of the situation immensely. Helen walked down to the car with me.

Got home before the first bell rang for dinner.

Played Sequence with Florence after dinner and beat her.

Had a very lengthy letter from Percy about that wretched old furniture situation enclosing exchange of letters between Florence, Hazel, and Percy. I am so sorry that there is this tensity of feeling between them.

*In the 1928 Baedeker, pg. 169, Pensione Crocini is at Lung Arno Guicciardini 9. As well it is listed in Artistic Guide to Florence (1910) on the Lung Arno Guicciardini.

Hat shopping, dentist, & Montebello

Did not get to bed till midnight, but slept better. Had breakfast in bed, also half a cup of cherry and apple that Florence cooked in her room. Studied Italian till 10. Dressed -finished my black dress - I always make my bed and pick up my room to help Elena. Got ready to go down town with Florence.

We did not start till 2:30 and missed a car, walked to San Gervasio. Went to bank and Florence lent me $20. Went to milliner to see the Pomeranian Pug. It looked very well indeed. Added a bunch of flowers on the side and paid $2.50. She turned the hat inside out and varnished it.

Went to Dr. Dunn's but I could not see him. It was too late.

Then went over to the Montebello and found Helen in. She looks badly and said she had a pain in her side. She had some delicious coffee and cream and bread and butter and cake. Then went down and got my hat, also cups for a maid, and a pair of gloves. Helen walked to car with me. Walked up from San Gervasio.

In the evening played Sequence and beat Florence. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter came in for a while. They showed us some of the pretty things they had bought. Florence is feeling better. Dr. G. wants her to go to San Pellegrino to the baths there.

Postal from Margaret. Our English paper has come!!!

Fiesole and San Girolamo Monastery

I did not sleep at all well last night. Finally at 5:45 I sat up and wrote a long letter to Uncle Hugh about ourselves and about his 3rd manuscript which we received about two weeks or more ago.

Finished my letter about 8 and took it into Florence's B.R. to read and then came back and slept for 3 good hours. Got up just in time for lunch. After lunch studied Italian awhile and got ready to go to Fiesole.

We got there at 4 and went into the straw shop to look around and then we went to the monastery of San Girolamo where the Blue Nuns live. I was just fascinated with the place. It was so beautiful and the acting Mother Superior, Mother Martha, said we could go all over the place and have tea and go into the chapel and see St. Florina, the Martyr who died when he was twelve years old.

We went all over and I was delighted with it. We had tea with thin slices of bread and butter and Sister G. took us over the house to see the cells they made into rooms for boarders.* We said we would stay to Benediction, the evening service at 6 o’clock.

While we were waiting who should come along but Helen with a Mrs. Fisher, a boarder at the Montebello who was very pleasant. They soon went in and we went into the service which was beautiful with the sweet voices of the sisters singing the chants.

We saw the waxen form of the martyr and after the service walked down a steep road to San Domenico** where we took the car for Le Lune. We had dinner out of doors. After dinner we had a game of Sequence and I beat.

It was a beautiful day. Florence paid all the expenses of the trip and gave me four beautiful postcards of the convent and a pamphlet about it with views of the walks re.

*The Blue Nuns until the 1980's ran a guest house at the monastery.
**The little hamlet of San Domenico di Fiesole (148m/486ft above sea level) is only about half a mile southwest of Fiesole and right on the boundary of Florence, with a panoramic view of the city. Its San Domenico Church (1406-1435; rebuilt in the 17th century) has a richly furnished interior, with a beautiful altarpiece by Fra Angelico (c. 1430) in the first chapel on the left.

Looking for new lodgings again

Went to bed last night about one, so slept over and did not wake up till 8:30. F. B. H. came in to my room, asked me if I would like to walk over to the Pestellini to see the manager and see when she could get in, so I hurried and had b’fast and dressed. Helen came in just as I was ready. She brought up her Italian grammar for me. Then we three walked over to the Pestellini. Said she would let F. come just as soon as she had a vacant room. I thought the place was a beautiful one. Helen did not go in, but went back to town. She said they sent the hat up and she took it. We walked back to the Le Lune.

After lunch F.B.H. lay down and I talked to her and finished knitting my blue slippers – one of those I did three times. And I had to rip out lots of places. At 3:45 we took our work and went out and sat under the trees. The Baltimore lady and her daughter sat with us. Mrs. Oudesluys read aloud from The Beauty of the Sting while the rest of us sewed. I put the ribbon on the bottom of my black silk dress and hemmed it where it had been let down. It took me four hours to do.

Miss Hannay lent us her London paper telling about the terrible disaster. It was so needless.

After dinner we came upstairs and Mrs. O. read the paper while I sewed and Florence ripped a flower out that she had made in the contadino veil she wants to send Mollie.

Yesterday I met one of the Princess Irene’s passengers, the one from Denver, Colorado who always wore a blue veil. They have been to Greece and Constantinople. She said they had had a delightful trip. They had met Miss Witt and Miss Peet a number of times since they had left the ship. A nice letter from Margaret. Read Uncle Hugh’s* manuscript over the second time. It is the third section.

*Hugh Young (b. 1830) was married to Anne Carolyn Thurston who was the younger sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Bowers Thurston. He was writing his autobiography.

Shopping in Florence

No letter from any of the children.

Had b’fast in bed and studied my Italian while doing so, washed my stockings and gloves re - Florence came in and pinned my black silk dress where it ought to be to hang straight. The English Type - the mother with a cap and her daughter, left this morning, also the German family - the woman who was so horrid to her little girl.

Florence and I went downtown. I carried down my plant and a lot of medicines to the Montebello to make it easier when I come to move. Then Helen and I went back to Munsterberg, the druggist, where we met Florence. She went back with me to the milliner’s but she did not have my feathers ready. She thinks she can fix my old one by turning the inside out which is not faded and facing the faded part with blue silk.

Then we went to the new market and bought some filel lace to go with the dress F. has given me and some Cluny* edging and insertions because it was cheap. Florence brought a trunk for $16.60 - a steamer trunk.

We did not go to look at the rooms. Helen seemed to be possessed to have me go to the Jennings Riccioli** instead of to the one where the Hubbells are. Florence was tired and had to go back while I went around to try to find a book from which Elena could learn English.

Then Helen saw a hat in the window and liked it. It was $4. Helen got her to take 3.60 and paid for it, and then suddenly remembered that other hat that she had ordered from the little milliner and wanted her money back which the other would not give. Helen got mad and threatened her with the American consul, but the girl would not give in. Finally she went off without the money or the hat either. I said I thought she would have trouble but she would not listen.

I spoke French for they could not understand each other, caught the 6:40 tram for the house. After dinner taught the Oudesluys to play Sequence. Miss Pete’s people are not going to leave so F. can’t go.

*Cluny lace-lace made from coarse thread used to edge household linens
**Jennings-Riccioli, nº 2 de Lungarno delle Grazie, was the model for the fictional Pensione Bertolini in Forester’s “A Room with a View.”

Trip to Fiesole (2)

Woke up at 7:45, but felt pretty tired so did not get right up. However, soon called for hot water, took my bath, and had breakfast with half a cup of F.’s stewed cherries. Before I was dressed, my Italian teacher came and I spent two hours working as hard as I could. Paid her 5 fr. for two double lessons and carfare.

After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.


First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.

Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.

Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.

They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.

The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.

After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.

* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.

Sunday service at the American Church

Was dressed before I rang for breakfast.

Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.

Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.

Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.

Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.

Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.

*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.

Trip to Fiesole

Woke up a little before eight. Breakfast in bed at nine. Studied the Italian grammar most diligently for an hour or more.

Washed some pieces. Mended stockings. Then went into F.’s room to work on my black silk dress. The skirt does not hang evenly. I tried it on. Florence changed it a little and I sewed it again.

Helen came up and we went to Fiesole, Florence, Helen and I. We went into the Cathedral and then into the Greek theater and the old baths. Florence took me in, a franc apiece. I saw the old Etruscan wall and we wandered all over the ruins.


The theatre has a wonderful situation looking out on the hills of Florence. We saw the ivory admission ticket that was given to the gladiator Euporus 62 B.C. after he had won 15 times, to admit him to a seat in the theatre. It was given to him by the Roman Consul. We spent a most interesting afternoon looking at the museum, theatre, etc. Helen had seen it several times and wouldn’t go in.

We met a Mrs. Hubbell w. her sister and daughter from California. It began to sprinkle so we came back to the Luné while Helen went home. The Directore told us of the dreadful news of the sinking of the Empress of Ireland yesterday morning and many people drowned. It was in the Italian paper. It positively makes me sick.*

It rained hard. Played Sequence with Florence and she beat me dreadfully.

*In the early morning hours of May 29, 1914, the Canadian Pacific ocean liner Empress of Ireland was cruising the St. Lawrence, headed for Liverpool. Travelling the opposite way was the Norwegian collier Storstad, weighed down by a full load of coal. Each ship had spotted the other, but a sudden fog obscured both. A collision sank the Empress of Ireland in just 14 minutes with more than 1000 passengers losing their lives.

First Italian lesson, hats, and sightseeing in Florence

Woke up quite early, had my bath, and rang for breakfast by eight. The breakfast had not come so had to wait. Read my French book a while. Was dressed by ten and went into F’s room. She is feeling somewhat better. Helen called me up on the telephone and I said we were going down today.

Signorina Bianca Carli came before F. was dressed so I went down and talked to her in French and began my first lesson in Italian. Florence did not take. I read the words over and we talked a little until twelve o’clock.

Florence went right down to the doctor’s after lunch, but I was not ready. Missed a car so was late in meeting Helen at Dr. Dunn’s. There were six ahead so I did not wait.

Helen took me to her milliner’s. She is going to fix my feathers and perhaps my hat by trimming it so I can wear it this summer.

Then we went down to the Duomo and took No. 8 to the end of the line, Piazza Michelangelo. I was so tired I could not go to see the two churches so we sat there and rested there, looked at the statue of David by Michelangelo and at the wonderful view of Florence and then came back to the Duomo where I took the car for the Luné.


After dinner, Florence stewed cherries and taught me Italian while I knit. Then we played Sequence and F. beat me all to pieces. Florence likes Dr. Ginguioli. He wants her to go to the Pestellini* as soon as she can. He thinks he can help her very much.

* Nigel Nicolson in “A Portrait of a Marriage”, describes his mother, Vita’s stay there in 1908 on her first visit to Florence: “They stayed at the Villa Pestellini, an ochre-coloured house with loggias and terraces and a cottage in the garden, and descended each day to the city…” In 1912, she went with Rosamund to Florence and stayed in the cottage at the Villa Pestellini.

Sewing, walking, and card games

Breakfast in bed. It rained a little in the morning and looked so cloudy at lunch that we decided to give up going to the city. Tried to call up Helen on the telephone and could not get the Montebello so wrote her a postal.

Had a nice letter from Hazel and a note from Percy, also four cunning pictures of John. Hazel said they were going to send me $40 next month but it is not owing me till August. She also said she was not satisfied with Percy’s condition.

Received also a nice letter from Alfred. Wrote a letter to Hazel about the money.

Florence made some hot tea and I went in and took my sewing. Then we went out and took a beautiful walk through the hanging vines along the Via Barbacane.


Stayed downstairs in the salon for a while after dinner then came up and played Sequence with Florence and she beat me.

Restful day in the Pensione in Florence

Weather has cleared off.

I had breakfast in bed and read my French a while and then I was sleepy and took a nap, so that Helen and Florence came in and found me.

Florence went down and called up Miss Petus and found she could not get in there till June 4th so she has decided to stay here and I shall stay as long as she does.

Helen is very far from well. She has also mucous colitis just as Florence says and I am trying to get her to go to see the doctor, but she wants to wait and consult an American woman doctor who is coming to Florence next month. She ought to have special food. I do not think she will go to the new pension with me as we had planned. She left when our lunch bell rang.

After lunch Florence and I took our sewing and went out into the garden to sit. Florence had the long chair which the invalid usually has. I did a lot of mending while Florence was working on one of her contadini* veils repairing it. Then I came upstairs and wrote a long letter to Percy and Hazel.

After dinner we sat in the salon a while then I came up to write my diary.

*peasant

Rainy day in the Pensione

It poured all day long without cessation.

Paid my bill. Wrote to Margaret and to Alfred. Sat with Florence in the afternoon and mended. She made some hot tea which tasted very good for it was hot and the weather is so cold and depressing.

We played Sequence in the evening. I beat a game of 100 and Florence one of 50. We sat up till eleven. After that I looked over that silly book, The Visits of Elizabeth* till after midnight.

Had a nice letter from Florence. She is going to Oregon with Tommy.** I am glad.

Told the Directore that we were going to leave.

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Morse, my twin.***

*Published in 1901 by Elinor Gwyn: “British author Elinor Glyn (1864-1943) wrote a number of novels, many featuring strong female characters in sexually charged situations. The most scandalous was Three Weeks, which nearly ended Glyn's career. Later in her career she was lured to Hollywood to write screenplays, one of which originated the idea of the "It Girl." She also directed two unsuccessful films.” Encyclopedia of World Biography
.**Referring to Jennie’s daughter, Florence, and husband, Tommy Sanford
***Mrs. Morse is her daughter Margeret’s mother-in-law.

Rainy day while looking for new lodgings

Rained all the afternoon. I did not sleep well, did not wake early, had no breakfast, took my bath, washed my hair and a few things.

I went in to see Florence and found her perfectly discouraged about herself. I advised her to see a different doctor and to try to get some help which I believed would be through diet and not through medicine. So she went down and got the manager to call up Dr. Toti who recommends a Dr. Giglioli near the Montebello.*

This afternoon right after lunch we went down to his office and he was most encouraging. He said they had found new remedies for this mucous colitis and that it was controlled by diet more than by medicine but he said she ought to go to some place where she would have just the right kind of cooking and he mentions the Montebello and a Miss Peters.

He also gave her tiny doses of castor oil and salol** to take every two hours and a dessert spoonful of Laxative Vaseline every night. I like the doctor very much and I am sure she is going to be better.

It rained and we took a carriage to the Montebello where we found Helen who made us some delicious coffee with cream, bread and butter and cake, very nice. We talked over places and I made up my mind to try to go to some place for 6 or 7 francs than to try to get into the Montebello for eight, so Helen and I went to a pension in the Arno and I looked at rooms, good for 6 fr., very good for 7, good cooking and all. I think we shall go there together but it depends on what Florence can do. We may go to Lausanne, later on.

It was raining hard so we took a cab back to the Montebello and then further to the Fiesole tram for F. and me. The rain came in the top of the car and I got wet. Changed all my things when I got back. Had dinner, cup of hot milk, an egg, soup, beans, dessert -strawberries with white white. Some new people have come here.

*Hotel Montebello, Via Curtatone 2.
**Phenyl salicylate, or salol, is a chemical substance, introduced in 1886 by Marceli Nencki of Basel. It can be created by heating salicylic acid with phenol. It has been used as an intestinal antiseptic based on the antibacterial activity upon hydrolysis in the small intestine.

American Church and visit with Helen

Very late about rising - as usual.

However, caught the 10:15 car and through the kindness of some people learned how to go to the American church* where I met Helen. The church is very pretty, the rector a fine man. He read the service in a slow impressive manner. The music was beautiful. Unfortunately there is a bad echo so one loses the words and so the connection of thought. The church was quite well filled. It took me one hour to return. Reached here at 1:30, an hour late to lunch, so had just bread and milk and an orange.

Helen came out about four, soon after Florence went down to see Pauline Altiocchi, so Helen and I were left alone. She asked me some pointed questions and I told her the truth about last winter, how Florence had become restive under the unnatural conditions in which she found herself, so that she actually felt she was doing wrong if she went alone either to walk or to make a call knowing Helen would feel hurt if left behind.

I told Helen that such a relation between people was unnatural and unpleasant. That Florence liked her very much but that she felt she must have more freedom of action and I told Helen that if she wanted to join us on the condition that we would all be free to live our own lives, we would be glad to have her. She did not answer, but evidently wishes to think it over.

Florence returned tired out, her feet hurting her. Helen left just before F. returned. F. had seen Pauline and her children and had invited them all here for tea on Tuesday, but I begged her to recall the invitation as she was so unwell. Sat up till after twelve writing to Alfred.

*Most likely St. James American Protestant Episcopal Church, Via Rucellai Bernardo 9, which is known as “the American Church” and was built 1908-1911.

Letters and new teeth

Slept very firmly. Got up at 6. Ate two oranges and wrote in this diary.

Florence came in about 7:30 as I was writing to Alfred and began to expatiate on the way Helen has been acting of late - which I must say I think has been very foolish.

Had caffe latte at 9.

Then the Directore sent in to ask if I wanted the other room and after talking it all over decided I did. So I dressed and began to move taking my smallest table and chairs. The room is two down from F’s, has sun in the afternoon and is a little larger and the bed is lower. The other bed was 34 inches from the floor. I was all in order by lunch time.

After lunch wrote a long letter to Alfred about addresses re. and told him things had been going on here with Helen and Florence, re. and then sent it to Margaret as she would understand the situation and told her to forward it to Alfred. Sent William the drawing of the sword of Damocles. Mailed them at the branch P.O. in the city.

Took the 4:45 car and got to Dr. Dunn’s office by 5:15. Waited some time and then he called me in and filled the teeth in. I think they do not bite quite right, but I am mighty glad to get them.

Went for my gloves but they are not ready. Got home at 7 as I walked up from San Gervasio.*

So delighted with my teeth that I showed them to several people. That nice Miss Hanney, the English lady, said she hoped my troubles were over. I hope so too. After supper we went outside and sat awhile and then came upstairs.

*Probably Via San Gervasio.

Shopping and doctors' visits in Florence

Read a little more Eugene Sue with my b’fast.

Florence came in to say that the Russian count who had the room next to hers was going and that the proprietor said I could have his room as the same price. I looked at it. It has light furniture. I did not like it so I am to have the next with dark furniture. I fussed around my room all the morning washing gloves and the 3 veils.

After lunch got ready to go up town or down town with Florence.

She went to the U.S. Consulate* and got two powers of attorney; had to pay $2 a piece for them. We also went to P.O. and sent off a money order for $2.50 to get our English daily paper.

Then we went to her ear doctor, Dr. Tito, and she asked for her bill. Then we went to several shops to get a parasol for me and I bought a gray one for $1.60 that will do but that I do not like. You cannot buy ready made things in Italy and I think it costs as much to live here as in the U.S.

Then Florence went home and I went to the dentist’s. I waited half an hour and saw him five minutes.

I have more doubts about these teeth being suitable or successful, but Dr. Dunn says they will give me better service than what I had.

Got back to the pension about 6. Found Florence here. Her foot troubles her greatly. We sat out on the terrace before dinner and in the salon afterwards.

Got talking to the two sisters and nurse of the woman with spine trouble. Then we came upstairs and played Sequence till eleven.

*Located at 9 Via Tornabuoni

Festival of the Cricket in Florence

Florence* was married a year ago today.

As usual lately I did not sleep well and therefore slept late. Florence came into my room at 8:15 o’clock to ask me if I did not want to go to the Park in Florence to the cricket festival.** She said it began at 4. She said she did not feel well enough to go but thought I would enjoy it, but as I was not dressed and it was late and I would have to go alone, I declined.

I had b’fast in bed and began to read Le [Lupine?] by Eugene Sue with the help of a dictionary. Then at 9:45 Helen called up and wanted me to go to the Festival and I said I could get dressed and start in half an hour which I did.

I got to the Duomo** a little ahead of Helen. We took a # 5 car and went out to the Park and walked up and down watching the people and the children and the people who sold things to eat, the men who sold toys and especially the ones who sold crickets.


There were thousands and thousands of poor crickets in boxes and pans? But especially in little cages of every hue and color. I bought one for 8 cents, also a flying machine and a clacker. We walked up and down several times there as the crowd rapidly thinned we sat down and talked about everything and everybody. Helen defends her conduct of last Tuesday, saying she acted in a conscientious manner. She apparently cannot see that she was mean and untruthful and deceiving. She said she felt ill and I begged her to put herself under the care of a good doctor, but she won’t. She seemed to have no discipline, no will power left. I tried to talk to her and advise her but it was of no use and I shall just try again. We stayed in the park until 3, then took a car back to town and then went to a tea room where I had ice cream and cake and Helen had caffe latte and cakes. I ate 5. We paid 1 fr. 20 cent. a piece as caffe latte costs more than ice cream.

Then Helen took me as guest [on a] most beautiful drive over the Viale de Colli. It was through a most beautiful country where you had a wonderful view of the city. Then we came down to the Duomo and I took the car home. The drive was Helen’s treat and cost a dollar. I brought the cricket home and let it out of the box.

Florence was here. I bought some “American molasses candy” which was rancid and awfully poor. I told her all about the day and the conversations. Some new people have come to the pension and 3 automobile loads came up and had dinner on the terrace.

I found a nice letter here from Alfred. Sat in F’s room after dinner playing solitaire and knitting.

The people on the terrace made such a noise I could not sleep till late.

*Her daughter, Florence Thurston Hincks, was married May 21, 1913 to Thomas Frederick Sanford, a professor of English at the University of California.
**the Duomo of Florence, also known as the Cathedral of Florence or Santa Maria del Fiore
**In late April or May, the annual cricket festival, Festa del Grillo, is held in the Cascine Park in Florence.**

Going Hat Shopping and to the Dentist

Slept better.

Florence came into my room at 8:15, found me in bed and said she was going to have her lunch sent up and could get it cheaper if it came with Helen’s so she went down to see the manager about it. He said she wasn’t coming and then repeated what Helen has said and done.

Florence was furious and insisted upon bringing the manager into my room and having him tell [truth]. Then she called up Helen who hedged, said she thought it wasn’t right to come under the circumstances, appealed for advice and finally when Florence told her to do what she wanted to, decided to stay at the Montebello.* So Florence ordered her lunch to be brought up. I got up, washed out some h’chiefs, ripped the feathers off my hat.

We decided to go down town after lunch, buy our hats, go to the bank, see about letters re. hunt up a dentist. We had quite a little time about getting Alfred’s check for $306.94 - cashed but we did finally.

Then I left gloves to be cleaned and we did numerous small errands and then we hunted up Dr. Wm Dunn.** There were lots of patients in the waiting room and at first the girl said we would have to make an appointment, but when she heard it was an accident, she said she would take the plate and the broken tooth and show him and then she came back and said he would see me in an hour.

So F. and I walked down to the New Market to buy an outing hat. I picked out the one I wanted and then had to hurry back to the dentist who advised me to cut off those three roots level with the gum and have a plate made. Said he could give it to me by Saturday whereas if I had all my teeth out, it would take a month before the gums would heal enough to have teeth {adher}. So he ground down the 3 teeth and made an impression of the bite.

Found my way back alone. Florence came in soon after. She had brought 2 more veils and the two cheap hats. Florence’s feet hurt terribly all the afternoon and evening. It is the gout in them. After dinner sat in F’s room. Played solitaire awhile myself and got it finally.

*Via Curtatone 2
**Dr. Dunn, a dentist, is mentioned in the 1886 Baedecker as being on Piazza S. Maria Novella 24.

Hat shopping in Florence

Slept poorly. Think it is indigestion. Had bread and milk for breakfast.

Finished T. Teinbaum so Helen could take it. She came in before I was dressed. She can’t make up her mind whether to come up here and join us or not. Finally said she would - then went down and beat the price down to 7 frc. a day for a sunny room and then told him 7. Said she would not stay if she did not get her room at the same price and she made such a muddle of it, that she decided she would not come, but she did not tell us of her discussion and we were expecting her tomorrow.

We went down and had lunch and then Florence said, “Let’s go to Florence and buy our sun hats - it will do us good,” so we started off. It cost us a franc for car fares because we got into the right bus going in the wrong direction but we saw lots of the city. Hunted and hunted for a store where they sold old laces till we found it and then Florence bought 5 v. 2 3 ???. Mine cost $2.50.

One is for my hat trimming; an interesting old Italian and his son have the shop and they go all over Italy buying these things. These things were worn by contadini* women and thrown over babies for christening. They are most interesting. I shall use mine for a little shawl.

I also bought a little blue delft bottle for 50 cen. We stayed there till six and then had to get back for dinner. I ate only soup and bread and milk because I was so tired.


Played several hands of Sequence with Florence and beat her. Then I played solitaire alone till eleven like a fool. We looked at our purchases and divided them. I had final choice. We went out to walk right after lunch and got caught in a shower or at least it began to rain, but not heavily till we got into the house. No letters.

*peasant

Still under the weather in Florence

Did not sleep well. Had breakfast at 9:45. Got up at 10 - dressed, washed out several things, mended a lot of clothes.

Unpacked most of my trunk, the things I would need.

Went to lunch - a good one.

Sat in Florence’s room most of the afternoon. I was sewing and she pressing down the lace collars to dry that she had washed this morning.

Finished a slipper. Afraid I bound it off too tight.

Showed Florence how to play Solitaire.

Went to dinner.

Taught Florence how to play Sequence.

The missionary nuns came with a lot of embroidery lace and leather ??? I did not buy because I felt too poor.

It rained all day.

Read T. Tanbaum till late.

Still sick...

Did not sleep very well and woke with a headache so I did not eat any breakfast except two oranges. Florence’s throat is so bad that she is going to the doctor’s after lunch.This pen is acting badly again and leaking all over my fingers.

Helen came and stayed to lunch and after lunch, Helen, Florence and I went into the doctor’s. Florence had forgotten it was Sunday and had not made an appointment so we found the doctor out. Nothing to do but wait so we went to a fashionable store and had some frozen custard and cakes and sat in the show windows and then Florence was tired and said she would go home so we walked to the car with her intending to come back and listen to the music.

We stopped at the Baptistery and looked in.It is where all the Catholic babies rich and poor have been baptized for years. Three were waiting there. It was cold and I did not dare to stay so we started for the music and it began to sprinkle so I said I was afraid of catching more cold and I would go home.


Looked in again in the Baptistery, more babies, came out and thought I would go and hear the music but it looked so like rain I turned back, so went into the Baptistery again. Four babies were being baptized and several more including one with a cloak embroidered with a crown and an M in gold were waiting. Florence said it must have been a child of a big ducal family. So cold I did not wait.Helen put me in the car. Told the manager Helen was coming Wednesday.

He was rather disagreeable about it; said he could not keep a room for her.

Went down to dinner. Sat with my back to the rest of the people.

Letter from Margaret saying Hazel was making trouble about the furniture. Wrote a nice letter to Florence.

Restful Saturday in Florence

Slept very well. Woke at 7:40. Had b’fast at 8:40 in bed.

My eyes are weak from reading so much I guess when I was sick, so I must be careful of them.

I wrote a long letter to Marion.

Was dressed about noon and went in to see Florence. Her throat is very sore and has white ulcers on it. Nevertheless she went to lunch and dinner as they were charging her a franc a day for service. They charge me half that so I had lunch and dinner alone in F.’s room.

After lunch we went out and sat in the cement platform waiting for Helen. We waited from two to four when she came. In the meantime, Florence was lying in one of those long reclining chairs when a woman came out and asked for it for someone who had spinal trouble so of course Florence gave it up. Florence went in at 4:30 and Helen and I went for a short walk.

Helen told me she was not well and was worried and did not know what to do, whether to stay over or go to Bellnos Falls [sic] or what to do. Said she was afraid she would be in the way here if she stayed next winter.

I talked to her very frankly and tried to show her that people needed freedom of action and times of being by themselves. She was very nice about it but I don’t think she understands by experience she is of such a dependent nature.

It rained hard when she left at 6:30. I had a very nice dinner. Read T Trusbaum until after eleven in my room. My cold has nearly gone.

Sitting with Florence

I read The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens until after eleven and then I dressed and went in to see Florence. Found her better, but still with a sore throat and feeling badly. It is a shame I should have given her this cold. I feel very badly about it.

I had lunch there with her and then sat and mended and talked for several hours. Then I read aloud a couple of Margaret’s letters and I finished Lis Doris.

Read last Sunday’s paper aloud - the big earthquake in Sicily last Saturday. We did not feel it here.



Florence lent me the money to pay my bill for $58.50 - charged me 6 francs for my trunk. Helen did not come out today. I had dinner with Florence and sat with her talking till eleven o’clock.

I am knitting my blue slippers with too heavy wool but it is the only wool that is of the right color. I have pulled it out twice because I didn’t like it but shall let it go this time.

Out of bed at last!

I got up about ten, but it was nearly noon before I was dressed, as I did some mending. Carried my sewing in to Florence’s room, put hooks and eyes into my new guimpe.

Used the pretty new grey bag with old rose lining that Mrs. Morse gave me Christmas.

After lunch I went out and walked an hour, going up to the next little town and back. It was the first time I had been dressed since May 5th.

I found Helen here when I came back. She brought out some calimel* and Florence and I each took half 12 tablets. I had lunch and dinner in Florence’s room.

I am reading The Price of Lis Doris and find it most interesting.

*Probably “calomel”, mercury chloride, used as a laxative and disinfectant until the 1940’s.

Resting in Florence VIII

Slept pretty well, but my chest is very sore from coughing.

Helen came up this morning but spent all her time in Florence’s room. She wanted one to advise her whether she ought to go home this summer, but I told her I couldn’t. She must do what she thought best.

The manager sent in his bill and asked me 8 frs. a day for this room instead of 7 and half a franc for service in sending meals up also, 6 francs for bringing up trunk. Florence made him take off the franc in the day. It is all right - I expect to be cheated and should be disappointed I suppose if I wasn’t.

Got up after lunch and sat in Florence’s room while mine was being cleaned. She read me letters from Mrs. Brown (whom she met in Carmel and who is in Japan) and from Mildred and I read her the one I received today from my Florence.

I don’t like the food here, detest it to be frank. I live principally on bread and milk. Have begun The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens.*



Knit a lot on my slipper. Didn’t like the shape and ripped it out.

Eighth day in bed.

**Published in 1909, this is the story of a Dutch peasant boy who becomes a famous painter, but whose fame is stolen from him by a wealthy amateur under whose protection his career has been successfully launched.

Resting in Florence VII

Poor Florence’s cold is so bad that she is going to stay in bed. I am so sorry. I went in to see her for a few minutes.

Read A Crimson Blind by Fred. A. White,* a piece of pure and poor trash.

I think my cold is better.

*Subtitle is “A Plucky Girl’s Detective Work”, published in 1905.

Resting in Florence VI

Another day in bed.

Began a letter to Alfred. Knit some in my blue slippers. My eyes and head ached so I did not read. My cough is very tight but I have no fever at all.

Helen came and brought me some tablets, Zymole* for which I paid her 1 fr. 80 cents. 36 cents for a 25 ct. article.


We had tea about five. I hate tea. Helen says she is coming out here next week. She is having a dress and a suit made, very nice ones.

Florence had a letter from Mollie and she is better. Also one from Marion. She says Edith** is a little better but too weak to leave the house. Little Marion has whooping cough.

*”Why wait for that hoarseness to ‘wear off,’ when Zymole Trokey will stop it so much quicker? Disagreeable coughs are often avoided by the use of "Zymole Trokeys.” This is from a 1908 advertisement.

**Edith is Marion's daughter (b. 1883) who married to John Graeff Kennedy. “Little Marion” is their daughter born in 1908.

Resting in Florence V

A gloomy day outside and another day in bed. Helen came up and stayed a while this morning.

She is going to Parsifal* this afternoon. It begins at 3, lasts till eight and she goes home for afternoon tea in the interim.


Florence stayed a little while but she is afraid of this cold. I don’t wonder. I cough and cough with no result. I am tired of it myself. Had a good nap this afternoon.

Read my March number of Current Literature.**

I had a nice letter from Margaret.

* Wagner’s Parsifal had its Italian premiere in 1914.
**A literary review that regularly ran much fiction, much of it reprinted from obscure sources for national circulation.

Resting in Florence IV

Another day in bed.

I get up before seven each morning, send for hot water, wash myself and everything else, dishes, h’chiefs, make my bed, pick up my room, and after I have everything in order, I send for a hot water bottle, and breakfast, and get into bed.

B’fast consists of a big cup of hot milk (a small pitcher full is the way it is brought), a small pot of coffee and two stale rolls cut up and toast and several curly cues of butter. I detest it.

Florence is afraid of my cold. Indeed she has had a slight cold herself with sore throat and she is raising phlegm while I cough and cough and can’t. So she spends but little time with me.

It rained hard so Helen did not come up. I had a letter from Margaret about my letters being carbonned and sent around. I didn’t think they are worth it.

Spent most of the day reading The Weaker Vessel by E.F. Benson.* Took a long nap in the afternoon.



*a novel published in 1913.

Resting in Florence III

My temp is normal and I am better. Florence went to town to do a lot of errands. She saw Helen who went to the opera last night.

I read Diana Mallory all day and finished it. Knit a very little. Played solitaire.

Florence was in my room but little as she is afraid of infection and tonight she has a slight temperature. I am very sorry.

I had a nice letter from Alfred with enclosure of $60. I wrote him a postal acknowledging it. I am afraid to write a letter for fear of infection.

Resting in Florence II

Slept better and feel better. Got up, bathed, washed out four h’chiefs, picked up my room.

Had the everlasting rolls and coffee “latte” with milk for breakfast.

Helen came up and brought me some antiphlogistine* for my throat, and some beautiful blue corn flowers and white-pinks.



Helen stayed to lunch - we had a nice long talk. Florence lay down, went out to walk, I talked so much I made my throat sore. Helen tried to get some more registered letters but she couldn’t do it. Also a letter was sent from the boarding house yesterday which has not arrived.

*a poultice for pains and swellings caused through colds, sore throat, rheumatism, bruises, sprains and muscular pains.

Resting in Florence

Did not sleep at all well. At 5:40 a black cat crawled up in the window sill and cried. I tried to send her off but she wouldn’t go. Then we had a thunderstorm and heavy rain and I let the cat in.

Florence and I talked all the morning about everything and in the afternoon, Helen came in and we talked a lot more and had afternoon tea. Didn’t have any dinner as I had a little fever (100). Fortunately I had carried the fever tablets that Dr. Cogswell had given me in Amherst, so I took those and I kept awake till eleven so as to get the three doses in.

I had a nice letter from Hazel containing two pictures of John and also one from Florence.

I finished Eleanor* by Mrs. Humphrey Ward. I am beginning Diana Mallory** by the same author. I think I have read it before. Manisty in Eleanor is just like Tommy,*** I think.


Helen brought me some delicious strawberries. I do not dare to write to the children for fear of giving them the infection.

*Eleanor published in 1900
**The Testing of Diana Mallory published in 1908, a strong anti-Suffrage book. Mrs. Humphry Ward (1851-1920) was the niece of Matthew Arnold and a popular late Victorian novelist who was brought up at Oxford and whose work was marked by religious conflict.
***Tommy Sanford is her son-in-law married to her daughter, Florence.

In Florence with Florence and Helen!

Was called before six - dressed, finished packing and was off before 7:30. Miss Shakspere Wood said she hoped I would return. They were kind and I was sorry to go.

Took twenty minutes and cost 8 fr. 20 to get any trunk billed through to Florence. Got a nice seat. 2nd class by the window. An Italian family of five came in. I felt headachy and half sick.

Watched the scenery which was interesting. Very primitive methods - hardly scratch the soil with their ploughs.

Italian family went to lunch. 3 English women came in. Thought they would come to blows.

Florence and Helen* both at station to meet me. It was raining. Had to wait half an hour for my trunk.



Drove out to Pension Le Lune which seems very pleasant. I am to have a small room and pay 7 frs. a day. Helen did not come up as she is staying at the Montebello, to have her clothes fixed.

We had tea in Florence’s room and in eating a piece of zweibach. I broke off my other tooth, so that means more money and more distress but it can’t be helped.

My cold is growing worse so I shall not go down but have my dinner in my room or rather Florence’s. Had soup and whipped cream and cake. Had a hot water bottle and went to bed.

Florence came in and we talked till eleven. My cold is so stuffy, I could not sleep. Had a nice letter from Margaret** forwarded from Rome.

*An old friend, Helen Chase.
**Her daughter, Margaret Morse who is living in Amherst, MA. at this time.

Wrapping up in Rome

Went to Pantheon and then to the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. It was dark in the church and I was too tired to look any way so I went to Cook’s to ask for letters.



Found none but my pretty hat was smashed out of recognition, had to pay 37 cents duty on it which made me mad. Left my address. Bought second class ticket to Florence. 27 francs 35 centimes.

Got home in time for lunch. Settled bill with Miss Wood for 11 days at 9 francs a day - came to 102 francs and 30 centimes. Miss Wood also wrote to Naples to try and get my letters that are missing.

Read Eleanor by Mrs. Humphrey Ward for a while, then partly packed my trunk and then went to the Boston Hotel to inquire about rooms for next winter. The cheapest were 10 francs a day, automatically raising to 12 in Jan. Felt a little blue and discouraged. Tired I guess. Besides I have a slight cold coming on.

Rode to terminus of No 8 tram, then took No. 1 as Miss Wood advised and rode around the whole circle. Walked home through the Corso.

Stopped in drawing room long enough to say goodbye to the people.

Letter from Florence Humphrey. *

*Her sister, who was in Florence, Italy at the time.

Mass in St. Peter's Basilica and Colosseum in Rome

A very busy day. I went to the 9:30 service in the chapel of Julia in St. Peters* at 9:40 today. I went so early I had a fine seat. The service was both beautiful, and interesting.

After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.

After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.


Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.

I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.

*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto

Visiting the first Montessori School in San Lorenzo

Had b’fast in my room as usual. Was ready at 8:45, but the others were not and it was after nine before we started to visit the Montessori School in a poor part of the city.*



Got there a little before ten and I spent the rest of the morning there. There were over 30 children all dressed alike in pink gingham and a head teacher with assistant, both Italian. Children came up and shook hands, wrote on slate in very legible writing, drew flowers, vases, balloons, backs, and worked with different parts of the apparatus. They talked freely, but were nevertheless under much discipline and the teachers scolded them in loud voices.



Miss Patterson and Miss. Hayward left at 11. I stayed till 12:20. After they left, other children came in and teachers till there were 126 children and 10 teachers. The chairs and tables were taken out and then they tried to teach them a motion play. The teachers were so slow and so cross and spoke so very loudly while the children were models of patience, endurance. Altogether I was much disappointed. The teacher told Miss Patterson that it was the first school of its kind in point of time.

Couldn’t get a tram so walked to the T. station where I got no. 14. Lay down after lunch - also finished a letter to Percy - then went with Miss Wood to an exhibition of the best of American artists in Rome.** It was very interesting and the school and grounds are charming. Met Dr. Edmiston and his wife in the car going out. Miss Wood was invited by Mr. Thomas, a young artist from Buffalo, N.Y.

A letter from Helen which I answered at once. She says Florence seems to have very little reserve strength.

*The school, La Casa dei Bambini, was located in the San Lorenzo district. It first opened in 1907.
**”International Exhibition of Futurism” in the Galleria Futurista took place in Rome in April and May, 1914 and included American artists, but this is not necessarily what she saw.
**Or it could be the American Academy in Rome, which has a School of Fine Arts and frequent exhibits

Walking in Rome on May Day: Doria Palace, Pincio and Borghese gardens

Today was cloudy and it was celebrated by no tram cars running and no taxis or carriages so you had to walk everywhere.

I went with Mrs. Haywood from Folkestone, Eng., a sweet faced woman to the Doria Palace to see the paintings there. We stopped at a church on the way and at the main post office (in an old monastery) on the way back. We must have walked three miles gone from 10-1.

Lay down after lunch and slept 1 1/4 hours, then got ready and went out with Mrs. Hayward, her friend Miss Patterson to walk in the Pincio and Borghese gardens* which were beautiful indeed. Saw magnolia, camphor, ilex, polonia, laburnum and lilac trees, locusts and acacias. It was very beautiful. Gone from 4 to 6:40. Very tired when I got back. Rested 15 minutes.



Went into the drawing room till 9:40. Finished my letter to Hazel and Percy.

*Villa Borghese is a large landscape garden in the naturalistic English manner in Rome, containing a number of buildings, museums and attractions. It is the second largest public park in Rome (80 hectares or 148 acres) after that of the Villa Doria Pamphili. The gardens were developed for the Villa Borghese Pinciana ("Borghese villa on the Pincian Hill").

The Pincio (the Pincian Hill of ancient Rome), in the south part of the park, offers one of the greatest views over Rome.

Rome: Montessori school and St. John Lateran Basilica

Felt quite tired so was late getting up and in dressing.

Decided to try to go to the Montessori Schools* so found out the direction to Via Poli where you have to go to get the ticket for admission. Got there but found the secretary was only in from 4-6. The young English girl to whom I gave the address got her card of entrance and went off without saying a word to me.

Then I looked at the shop windows, went to Pension Cargill and asked about rates for next winter, went to Cook’s and got a letter from Margaret and rode home in the no. 14 train. After lunch I asked Miss Wood what to do and she advised going to St. John L.*



I rested till 3 and started about 3:30, reached the church at end of train 16. Went all around the church and into the vault and to see the beautiful cloisters.



Then took the no. 8 car to Piazza Sylvestro [Piazza San Silvestro, A] and walked to Via Poli [B]. Saw the secretary, a pleasant man and am to get a permit for myself and two friends to visit “a poor school”, walked home up Via Corso Victor Emanuel [Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, C]. It was crowded so you had to walk in the street part of the time. Took me ¾ an hour to walk home.


View Larger Map

It rained this afternoon not very hard. Dressed for dinner and went into sitting room and read The Daily Graphic.

*Dr. Maria Montessori (1870-1952), the first female physician in Italy who was an Italian educator known for developing the Montessori method to teach young children. She introduced the method in Rome in 1907
**Probably St. John Lateran

Visiting the Roman Forum

Felt pretty tired after my trip of yesterday so had b’fast in bed and did not go down till 10. Then washed out my night dress and hung it out on the balcony to dry.

Had a talk with Miss Wood about rooms. It will cost from $55 to $60 a month here - two in a room - if we come here next winter - fully $60 with fire for you pay for your own fuel.

After lunch I started for the Forum to attend a lecture by Dr. Raymond. I was late in getting there so missed the lecture but wandered around the ruins for two hours and a half and with the aid of Baedeker understood the place fully well. A keeper showed me the new excavations for which I gave him four cents.



Was beguiled into buying two sets of Roman postcards for 85 cents.

Spent part of the evening in the living room talking to Miss Patterson.

Finished a silly old novel called Marriage by Miss Ferrier*, a distinct imitation of Evalina.

*Susan Edmonstone Ferrier, “Marriage,” 1818.

Sightseeing in Rome with AmEx

Got down to the American Exp. office before 9 a.m. Dr. Edmiston came soon after and the two others of the party - father and son named Mantz from the North Shore Drive, Chicago.

We drove first to St. Peters which I had studied by myself Sunday. We saw Peter’s grave and the gilt box above where the bishop’s robe is kept. Then to the Vatican where we saw what was best in the sculpture and in the Egyptian rooms and in the painting.


We went into the Borgia departments. The old man got pretty tired. I left them in the Piazza de Pietro and came back in No. 16 tram.

After lunch wrote to Florence and got ready and went to the Am. Ex. Office - where the carriage and the people soon appeared. We rode to the Coliseum but did not go in, passed the Baths of Caracalla, then along the Appian Way which is dusty and interesting.

We went down into the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, were there perhaps half an hour, very interesting to see the tiers of graves and the little chapels in the shape of a cross.


We carried candles in our hands and were a party of ten I guess. The old man did not go nor Dr. Edmiston. Coming back we stopped at St. Paul’s Outside the Walls which is a new and interesting church* with a beautiful old cloister.

Then we rode right back to the Am. Ex. Office. We did not go to the Doria picture gallery, nor to see the graves Keats and Shelley,** nor to the church of St. Sebastian, I suppose on account of the old man.

Met Mrs. Bell in the office and said goodbye to her again. I like my next neighbor at the table, Mrs. Haywood. The rest of the people are English and stiff. Had a letter from Florence*** which I answered at once about the apt. in Asolo. She says Helen has written to me twice in Naples. I did not receive either letter.

*Faithful reconstruction of 4th century basilica destroyed by fire in 1823.
**In Protestant cemetery, Cimitero Acattolico
***Florence Humphrey, her sister

Rome and Via Nomentana

Slept pretty well. Woke up early - dressed.

Had b’fast in my room and started off at 8:35 for the Am. Express Co. to go on the excursion if one was going. Got there before it opened.

Saw a Mrs. Carpenter who railed at the U.S. postal service. Said “It was rotten.”

Saw Mr. Edmiston, said no one had booked so far, but took my address and will send me word in case a party is formed. He gave me several addresses and showed me how to take no. 9 train to Via Nomentana.



Went to end of line. Sat down on the grass looking towards the mts. and wrote a postal to Margaret*. Came back and then went to Cook’s for letter from home - came back on No. 14.

Lay down before lunch. Finished The Princess Locked Book** by Mrs. Williamson. Then slept for two hours. Mended my clothes to change tomorrow. Ate a very hearty lunch. Not so much for dinner. At dinner had a pleasant chat with Mrs. Hayward who sat next to me. She invited me to go to the Doria gallery with her tomorrow and I shall be glad to if I don’t go with this Prof. Edmiston.

*Her daughter.
** “Princess Mary's Locked Book” by Mrs. C. N. Williamson published in 1912.

Rome and St. Peter's Basilica

Got up at 7:15. Had a bath in the saucer pan and breakfast alone in the dining room with my faithful Baedeker beside me. Coffee - hot milk - rolls and fresh butter - no more - no less.

Then went by myself to St. Peter’s, carried a camp-chair, went first of all to a German service and then to the regular High Mass. It was a beautiful service. Not knowing where it was to be held, I was late so stood all the way through.

Then went all around the church with the Baedeker and looked at everything, but it is impossible to take it all in at once or I should think at many visits. It is magnificent beyond words with its wealth of detail.




Left just before noon. Rode back for I was tired. Lay down till lunch. Miss Wood told me how to go to see Mrs. Bell.

Got there all right. Had a great time in getting word to Mrs. Bell after I got to the pension. It took me 25 minutes before I made them understand whom I wanted. There was an Italian woman who was very rude - told me to go to the station and take a no. 12 train. Then they said Mrs. Bell was out, was asleep, and finally she came down and I had a pleasant visit with her - told her what hard work I had had reaching her.

Her friend Mrs. Abbott came down and an Oakland woman, a Mrs. Watson came in and we had tea. Left just before six - cars were crowded - stood all the way home. Went into the drawing room a while. A Miss Patterson spoke to me-said she knew Florence well. Been to Capri with her.