Shopping in Florence

No letter from any of the children.

Had b’fast in bed and studied my Italian while doing so, washed my stockings and gloves re - Florence came in and pinned my black silk dress where it ought to be to hang straight. The English Type - the mother with a cap and her daughter, left this morning, also the German family - the woman who was so horrid to her little girl.

Florence and I went downtown. I carried down my plant and a lot of medicines to the Montebello to make it easier when I come to move. Then Helen and I went back to Munsterberg, the druggist, where we met Florence. She went back with me to the milliner’s but she did not have my feathers ready. She thinks she can fix my old one by turning the inside out which is not faded and facing the faded part with blue silk.

Then we went to the new market and bought some filel lace to go with the dress F. has given me and some Cluny* edging and insertions because it was cheap. Florence brought a trunk for $16.60 - a steamer trunk.

We did not go to look at the rooms. Helen seemed to be possessed to have me go to the Jennings Riccioli** instead of to the one where the Hubbells are. Florence was tired and had to go back while I went around to try to find a book from which Elena could learn English.

Then Helen saw a hat in the window and liked it. It was $4. Helen got her to take 3.60 and paid for it, and then suddenly remembered that other hat that she had ordered from the little milliner and wanted her money back which the other would not give. Helen got mad and threatened her with the American consul, but the girl would not give in. Finally she went off without the money or the hat either. I said I thought she would have trouble but she would not listen.

I spoke French for they could not understand each other, caught the 6:40 tram for the house. After dinner taught the Oudesluys to play Sequence. Miss Pete’s people are not going to leave so F. can’t go.

*Cluny lace-lace made from coarse thread used to edge household linens
**Jennings-Riccioli, nº 2 de Lungarno delle Grazie, was the model for the fictional Pensione Bertolini in Forester’s “A Room with a View.”

First Italian lesson, hats, and sightseeing in Florence

Woke up quite early, had my bath, and rang for breakfast by eight. The breakfast had not come so had to wait. Read my French book a while. Was dressed by ten and went into F’s room. She is feeling somewhat better. Helen called me up on the telephone and I said we were going down today.

Signorina Bianca Carli came before F. was dressed so I went down and talked to her in French and began my first lesson in Italian. Florence did not take. I read the words over and we talked a little until twelve o’clock.

Florence went right down to the doctor’s after lunch, but I was not ready. Missed a car so was late in meeting Helen at Dr. Dunn’s. There were six ahead so I did not wait.

Helen took me to her milliner’s. She is going to fix my feathers and perhaps my hat by trimming it so I can wear it this summer.

Then we went down to the Duomo and took No. 8 to the end of the line, Piazza Michelangelo. I was so tired I could not go to see the two churches so we sat there and rested there, looked at the statue of David by Michelangelo and at the wonderful view of Florence and then came back to the Duomo where I took the car for the Luné.


After dinner, Florence stewed cherries and taught me Italian while I knit. Then we played Sequence and F. beat me all to pieces. Florence likes Dr. Ginguioli. He wants her to go to the Pestellini* as soon as she can. He thinks he can help her very much.

* Nigel Nicolson in “A Portrait of a Marriage”, describes his mother, Vita’s stay there in 1908 on her first visit to Florence: “They stayed at the Villa Pestellini, an ochre-coloured house with loggias and terraces and a cottage in the garden, and descended each day to the city…” In 1912, she went with Rosamund to Florence and stayed in the cottage at the Villa Pestellini.

Going Hat Shopping and to the Dentist

Slept better.

Florence came into my room at 8:15, found me in bed and said she was going to have her lunch sent up and could get it cheaper if it came with Helen’s so she went down to see the manager about it. He said she wasn’t coming and then repeated what Helen has said and done.

Florence was furious and insisted upon bringing the manager into my room and having him tell [truth]. Then she called up Helen who hedged, said she thought it wasn’t right to come under the circumstances, appealed for advice and finally when Florence told her to do what she wanted to, decided to stay at the Montebello.* So Florence ordered her lunch to be brought up. I got up, washed out some h’chiefs, ripped the feathers off my hat.

We decided to go down town after lunch, buy our hats, go to the bank, see about letters re. hunt up a dentist. We had quite a little time about getting Alfred’s check for $306.94 - cashed but we did finally.

Then I left gloves to be cleaned and we did numerous small errands and then we hunted up Dr. Wm Dunn.** There were lots of patients in the waiting room and at first the girl said we would have to make an appointment, but when she heard it was an accident, she said she would take the plate and the broken tooth and show him and then she came back and said he would see me in an hour.

So F. and I walked down to the New Market to buy an outing hat. I picked out the one I wanted and then had to hurry back to the dentist who advised me to cut off those three roots level with the gum and have a plate made. Said he could give it to me by Saturday whereas if I had all my teeth out, it would take a month before the gums would heal enough to have teeth {adher}. So he ground down the 3 teeth and made an impression of the bite.

Found my way back alone. Florence came in soon after. She had brought 2 more veils and the two cheap hats. Florence’s feet hurt terribly all the afternoon and evening. It is the gout in them. After dinner sat in F’s room. Played solitaire awhile myself and got it finally.

*Via Curtatone 2
**Dr. Dunn, a dentist, is mentioned in the 1886 Baedecker as being on Piazza S. Maria Novella 24.

Hat shopping in Florence

Slept poorly. Think it is indigestion. Had bread and milk for breakfast.

Finished T. Teinbaum so Helen could take it. She came in before I was dressed. She can’t make up her mind whether to come up here and join us or not. Finally said she would - then went down and beat the price down to 7 frc. a day for a sunny room and then told him 7. Said she would not stay if she did not get her room at the same price and she made such a muddle of it, that she decided she would not come, but she did not tell us of her discussion and we were expecting her tomorrow.

We went down and had lunch and then Florence said, “Let’s go to Florence and buy our sun hats - it will do us good,” so we started off. It cost us a franc for car fares because we got into the right bus going in the wrong direction but we saw lots of the city. Hunted and hunted for a store where they sold old laces till we found it and then Florence bought 5 v. 2 3 ???. Mine cost $2.50.

One is for my hat trimming; an interesting old Italian and his son have the shop and they go all over Italy buying these things. These things were worn by contadini* women and thrown over babies for christening. They are most interesting. I shall use mine for a little shawl.

I also bought a little blue delft bottle for 50 cen. We stayed there till six and then had to get back for dinner. I ate only soup and bread and milk because I was so tired.


Played several hands of Sequence with Florence and beat her. Then I played solitaire alone till eleven like a fool. We looked at our purchases and divided them. I had final choice. We went out to walk right after lunch and got caught in a shower or at least it began to rain, but not heavily till we got into the house. No letters.

*peasant