Resting in Florence II

Slept better and feel better. Got up, bathed, washed out four h’chiefs, picked up my room.

Had the everlasting rolls and coffee “latte” with milk for breakfast.

Helen came up and brought me some antiphlogistine* for my throat, and some beautiful blue corn flowers and white-pinks.



Helen stayed to lunch - we had a nice long talk. Florence lay down, went out to walk, I talked so much I made my throat sore. Helen tried to get some more registered letters but she couldn’t do it. Also a letter was sent from the boarding house yesterday which has not arrived.

*a poultice for pains and swellings caused through colds, sore throat, rheumatism, bruises, sprains and muscular pains.

Resting in Florence

Did not sleep at all well. At 5:40 a black cat crawled up in the window sill and cried. I tried to send her off but she wouldn’t go. Then we had a thunderstorm and heavy rain and I let the cat in.

Florence and I talked all the morning about everything and in the afternoon, Helen came in and we talked a lot more and had afternoon tea. Didn’t have any dinner as I had a little fever (100). Fortunately I had carried the fever tablets that Dr. Cogswell had given me in Amherst, so I took those and I kept awake till eleven so as to get the three doses in.

I had a nice letter from Hazel containing two pictures of John and also one from Florence.

I finished Eleanor* by Mrs. Humphrey Ward. I am beginning Diana Mallory** by the same author. I think I have read it before. Manisty in Eleanor is just like Tommy,*** I think.


Helen brought me some delicious strawberries. I do not dare to write to the children for fear of giving them the infection.

*Eleanor published in 1900
**The Testing of Diana Mallory published in 1908, a strong anti-Suffrage book. Mrs. Humphry Ward (1851-1920) was the niece of Matthew Arnold and a popular late Victorian novelist who was brought up at Oxford and whose work was marked by religious conflict.
***Tommy Sanford is her son-in-law married to her daughter, Florence.

In Florence with Florence and Helen!

Was called before six - dressed, finished packing and was off before 7:30. Miss Shakspere Wood said she hoped I would return. They were kind and I was sorry to go.

Took twenty minutes and cost 8 fr. 20 to get any trunk billed through to Florence. Got a nice seat. 2nd class by the window. An Italian family of five came in. I felt headachy and half sick.

Watched the scenery which was interesting. Very primitive methods - hardly scratch the soil with their ploughs.

Italian family went to lunch. 3 English women came in. Thought they would come to blows.

Florence and Helen* both at station to meet me. It was raining. Had to wait half an hour for my trunk.



Drove out to Pension Le Lune which seems very pleasant. I am to have a small room and pay 7 frs. a day. Helen did not come up as she is staying at the Montebello, to have her clothes fixed.

We had tea in Florence’s room and in eating a piece of zweibach. I broke off my other tooth, so that means more money and more distress but it can’t be helped.

My cold is growing worse so I shall not go down but have my dinner in my room or rather Florence’s. Had soup and whipped cream and cake. Had a hot water bottle and went to bed.

Florence came in and we talked till eleven. My cold is so stuffy, I could not sleep. Had a nice letter from Margaret** forwarded from Rome.

*An old friend, Helen Chase.
**Her daughter, Margaret Morse who is living in Amherst, MA. at this time.

Wrapping up in Rome

Went to Pantheon and then to the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. It was dark in the church and I was too tired to look any way so I went to Cook’s to ask for letters.



Found none but my pretty hat was smashed out of recognition, had to pay 37 cents duty on it which made me mad. Left my address. Bought second class ticket to Florence. 27 francs 35 centimes.

Got home in time for lunch. Settled bill with Miss Wood for 11 days at 9 francs a day - came to 102 francs and 30 centimes. Miss Wood also wrote to Naples to try and get my letters that are missing.

Read Eleanor by Mrs. Humphrey Ward for a while, then partly packed my trunk and then went to the Boston Hotel to inquire about rooms for next winter. The cheapest were 10 francs a day, automatically raising to 12 in Jan. Felt a little blue and discouraged. Tired I guess. Besides I have a slight cold coming on.

Rode to terminus of No 8 tram, then took No. 1 as Miss Wood advised and rode around the whole circle. Walked home through the Corso.

Stopped in drawing room long enough to say goodbye to the people.

Letter from Florence Humphrey. *

*Her sister, who was in Florence, Italy at the time.

Mass in St. Peter's Basilica and Colosseum in Rome

A very busy day. I went to the 9:30 service in the chapel of Julia in St. Peters* at 9:40 today. I went so early I had a fine seat. The service was both beautiful, and interesting.

After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.

After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.


Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.

I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.

*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto

Visiting the first Montessori School in San Lorenzo

Had b’fast in my room as usual. Was ready at 8:45, but the others were not and it was after nine before we started to visit the Montessori School in a poor part of the city.*



Got there a little before ten and I spent the rest of the morning there. There were over 30 children all dressed alike in pink gingham and a head teacher with assistant, both Italian. Children came up and shook hands, wrote on slate in very legible writing, drew flowers, vases, balloons, backs, and worked with different parts of the apparatus. They talked freely, but were nevertheless under much discipline and the teachers scolded them in loud voices.



Miss Patterson and Miss. Hayward left at 11. I stayed till 12:20. After they left, other children came in and teachers till there were 126 children and 10 teachers. The chairs and tables were taken out and then they tried to teach them a motion play. The teachers were so slow and so cross and spoke so very loudly while the children were models of patience, endurance. Altogether I was much disappointed. The teacher told Miss Patterson that it was the first school of its kind in point of time.

Couldn’t get a tram so walked to the T. station where I got no. 14. Lay down after lunch - also finished a letter to Percy - then went with Miss Wood to an exhibition of the best of American artists in Rome.** It was very interesting and the school and grounds are charming. Met Dr. Edmiston and his wife in the car going out. Miss Wood was invited by Mr. Thomas, a young artist from Buffalo, N.Y.

A letter from Helen which I answered at once. She says Florence seems to have very little reserve strength.

*The school, La Casa dei Bambini, was located in the San Lorenzo district. It first opened in 1907.
**”International Exhibition of Futurism” in the Galleria Futurista took place in Rome in April and May, 1914 and included American artists, but this is not necessarily what she saw.
**Or it could be the American Academy in Rome, which has a School of Fine Arts and frequent exhibits

Walking in Rome on May Day: Doria Palace, Pincio and Borghese gardens

Today was cloudy and it was celebrated by no tram cars running and no taxis or carriages so you had to walk everywhere.

I went with Mrs. Haywood from Folkestone, Eng., a sweet faced woman to the Doria Palace to see the paintings there. We stopped at a church on the way and at the main post office (in an old monastery) on the way back. We must have walked three miles gone from 10-1.

Lay down after lunch and slept 1 1/4 hours, then got ready and went out with Mrs. Hayward, her friend Miss Patterson to walk in the Pincio and Borghese gardens* which were beautiful indeed. Saw magnolia, camphor, ilex, polonia, laburnum and lilac trees, locusts and acacias. It was very beautiful. Gone from 4 to 6:40. Very tired when I got back. Rested 15 minutes.



Went into the drawing room till 9:40. Finished my letter to Hazel and Percy.

*Villa Borghese is a large landscape garden in the naturalistic English manner in Rome, containing a number of buildings, museums and attractions. It is the second largest public park in Rome (80 hectares or 148 acres) after that of the Villa Doria Pamphili. The gardens were developed for the Villa Borghese Pinciana ("Borghese villa on the Pincian Hill").

The Pincio (the Pincian Hill of ancient Rome), in the south part of the park, offers one of the greatest views over Rome.

Rome: Montessori school and St. John Lateran Basilica

Felt quite tired so was late getting up and in dressing.

Decided to try to go to the Montessori Schools* so found out the direction to Via Poli where you have to go to get the ticket for admission. Got there but found the secretary was only in from 4-6. The young English girl to whom I gave the address got her card of entrance and went off without saying a word to me.

Then I looked at the shop windows, went to Pension Cargill and asked about rates for next winter, went to Cook’s and got a letter from Margaret and rode home in the no. 14 train. After lunch I asked Miss Wood what to do and she advised going to St. John L.*



I rested till 3 and started about 3:30, reached the church at end of train 16. Went all around the church and into the vault and to see the beautiful cloisters.



Then took the no. 8 car to Piazza Sylvestro [Piazza San Silvestro, A] and walked to Via Poli [B]. Saw the secretary, a pleasant man and am to get a permit for myself and two friends to visit “a poor school”, walked home up Via Corso Victor Emanuel [Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, C]. It was crowded so you had to walk in the street part of the time. Took me ¾ an hour to walk home.


View Larger Map

It rained this afternoon not very hard. Dressed for dinner and went into sitting room and read The Daily Graphic.

*Dr. Maria Montessori (1870-1952), the first female physician in Italy who was an Italian educator known for developing the Montessori method to teach young children. She introduced the method in Rome in 1907
**Probably St. John Lateran

Visiting the Roman Forum

Felt pretty tired after my trip of yesterday so had b’fast in bed and did not go down till 10. Then washed out my night dress and hung it out on the balcony to dry.

Had a talk with Miss Wood about rooms. It will cost from $55 to $60 a month here - two in a room - if we come here next winter - fully $60 with fire for you pay for your own fuel.

After lunch I started for the Forum to attend a lecture by Dr. Raymond. I was late in getting there so missed the lecture but wandered around the ruins for two hours and a half and with the aid of Baedeker understood the place fully well. A keeper showed me the new excavations for which I gave him four cents.



Was beguiled into buying two sets of Roman postcards for 85 cents.

Spent part of the evening in the living room talking to Miss Patterson.

Finished a silly old novel called Marriage by Miss Ferrier*, a distinct imitation of Evalina.

*Susan Edmonstone Ferrier, “Marriage,” 1818.

Sightseeing in Rome with AmEx

Got down to the American Exp. office before 9 a.m. Dr. Edmiston came soon after and the two others of the party - father and son named Mantz from the North Shore Drive, Chicago.

We drove first to St. Peters which I had studied by myself Sunday. We saw Peter’s grave and the gilt box above where the bishop’s robe is kept. Then to the Vatican where we saw what was best in the sculpture and in the Egyptian rooms and in the painting.


We went into the Borgia departments. The old man got pretty tired. I left them in the Piazza de Pietro and came back in No. 16 tram.

After lunch wrote to Florence and got ready and went to the Am. Ex. Office - where the carriage and the people soon appeared. We rode to the Coliseum but did not go in, passed the Baths of Caracalla, then along the Appian Way which is dusty and interesting.

We went down into the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, were there perhaps half an hour, very interesting to see the tiers of graves and the little chapels in the shape of a cross.


We carried candles in our hands and were a party of ten I guess. The old man did not go nor Dr. Edmiston. Coming back we stopped at St. Paul’s Outside the Walls which is a new and interesting church* with a beautiful old cloister.

Then we rode right back to the Am. Ex. Office. We did not go to the Doria picture gallery, nor to see the graves Keats and Shelley,** nor to the church of St. Sebastian, I suppose on account of the old man.

Met Mrs. Bell in the office and said goodbye to her again. I like my next neighbor at the table, Mrs. Haywood. The rest of the people are English and stiff. Had a letter from Florence*** which I answered at once about the apt. in Asolo. She says Helen has written to me twice in Naples. I did not receive either letter.

*Faithful reconstruction of 4th century basilica destroyed by fire in 1823.
**In Protestant cemetery, Cimitero Acattolico
***Florence Humphrey, her sister

Rome and Via Nomentana

Slept pretty well. Woke up early - dressed.

Had b’fast in my room and started off at 8:35 for the Am. Express Co. to go on the excursion if one was going. Got there before it opened.

Saw a Mrs. Carpenter who railed at the U.S. postal service. Said “It was rotten.”

Saw Mr. Edmiston, said no one had booked so far, but took my address and will send me word in case a party is formed. He gave me several addresses and showed me how to take no. 9 train to Via Nomentana.



Went to end of line. Sat down on the grass looking towards the mts. and wrote a postal to Margaret*. Came back and then went to Cook’s for letter from home - came back on No. 14.

Lay down before lunch. Finished The Princess Locked Book** by Mrs. Williamson. Then slept for two hours. Mended my clothes to change tomorrow. Ate a very hearty lunch. Not so much for dinner. At dinner had a pleasant chat with Mrs. Hayward who sat next to me. She invited me to go to the Doria gallery with her tomorrow and I shall be glad to if I don’t go with this Prof. Edmiston.

*Her daughter.
** “Princess Mary's Locked Book” by Mrs. C. N. Williamson published in 1912.

Rome and St. Peter's Basilica

Got up at 7:15. Had a bath in the saucer pan and breakfast alone in the dining room with my faithful Baedeker beside me. Coffee - hot milk - rolls and fresh butter - no more - no less.

Then went by myself to St. Peter’s, carried a camp-chair, went first of all to a German service and then to the regular High Mass. It was a beautiful service. Not knowing where it was to be held, I was late so stood all the way through.

Then went all around the church with the Baedeker and looked at everything, but it is impossible to take it all in at once or I should think at many visits. It is magnificent beyond words with its wealth of detail.




Left just before noon. Rode back for I was tired. Lay down till lunch. Miss Wood told me how to go to see Mrs. Bell.

Got there all right. Had a great time in getting word to Mrs. Bell after I got to the pension. It took me 25 minutes before I made them understand whom I wanted. There was an Italian woman who was very rude - told me to go to the station and take a no. 12 train. Then they said Mrs. Bell was out, was asleep, and finally she came down and I had a pleasant visit with her - told her what hard work I had had reaching her.

Her friend Mrs. Abbott came down and an Oakland woman, a Mrs. Watson came in and we had tea. Left just before six - cars were crowded - stood all the way home. Went into the drawing room a while. A Miss Patterson spoke to me-said she knew Florence well. Been to Capri with her.

Rome: The Vatican and Piazza di Spagna

Bath in the big sauce pan 8 inches high at 7:30. Expected b’fast at 8 as I heard Miss Wood tell the maid, but I got interested in reading Baedeker* and it was 8:20 before I realized the time.

Rang for the maid and breakfast came about 8:30. Studied my Italian grammar book while eating. Started to dress and Miss Wood came and invited me to go with the school girls to the Vatican. I hurried and we started at 10 A.M.

Rode in the No. 16 train to St. Peter’s, then took a carriage and rode to the Vatican. Went to Sistine Chapel. Met Mrs. Bell and had a nice chat with her. She is on crutches as she slipped and sprained her foot.

Then we went to see Raphael’s Stanzas** but there was such a crowd - this being a free day that we could not see much - besides they wanted to get back to the pension as they leave this afternoon. I came with them. We took a carriage - cost me a franc. A letter from Florence Humphrey. She has moved back to Pension Le Lune*** and is feeling better.



About 3 P.M. I started for Piazza di Spagna to see about taking the sight seeing trip with Dr. Edmiston. Went in the 14 train. Found a 10 cm. piece in the street. Shall keep it for good luck. Got $10 changed. Found the excursions were given up for the present as no on had booked. Walked home following st. car line. Read London Daily Graphic about our war with Mexico.


*Travel guide published by Karl Baedeker
**Pope Julius II Dell a Rovere commissioned 25 year old Raphael Sanzio in 1508 to paint the frescos in his four room apartment on the top floor. Three of the rooms were of modest dimensions, while the fourth one was considerably larger; with the completion of the work, the rooms became known as "The Raphael Stanze" .
***In Florence.

Arrived in Rome

Got up at 6:45. Dressed and packed leisurely as I went along. All through by 8:20. Had b’fast but porter came and said I must leave so got off at 8:50. Took single carriage and porter went with me.

Saw my trunk weighed and registered. Train full, but new cars were put on and I got a seat by the window. Five men in the coach. All behaved well. Mrs. Dickens gave me a lunch which I solemnly ate at one o’clock.

Saw the remains of the aqueduct coming into Rome.

There were clouds in the sky and the ride along the Apennines was rarely beautiful, beautiful all the way from Naples to Rome.

Got a facchino* and got my things and started in a carriage to Miss Schnabe. Found she had gone on her vacation leaving a Miss Margaret Wood in charge. She gave me a pleasant double room with a balcony looking out in the garden. She sent tea in to my room and I unpacked some of my things.

Dinner at 7:30. Put on my black silk with blue collar and cuffs. Sat at Miss Wood’s table with four other women - all English I think. Met Miss __, the English teacher Florence knew with her four girls.

Went into the reception room after dinner and read The Daily Graphic** and learned from that Pres. Wilson has sent a force to Mexico to demand apology from Huerta for insults to our flag and people. Congress voted him $50,000.

Washed my hair-terrible job as the water is hard. Slept very well.

*porter
**The Daily Graphic was a daily London paper launched in 1880 and merged with another paper in 1926. It was the first illustrated paper.

Last Day in Naples

Tired so did not sleep well. Therefore did not get up till 7:30. Had late breakfast in my room and packed my trunk till 10 A.M. Miss Ferris came in for a few minutes.

Started out about 10:45 to go to museum by No. 6 car from Toretta. Went to wrong place-finally found it-got the car - had a beautiful ride and was carried away past to end of line. Had to come back in car - got there about noon. Spent all the time looking at the Pompeian exhibits.


Stayed till 1:45 - then left and went to corner - waited for car; none came - asked several persons. Some spoke neither English nor French - point to another corner - finally discovered that cars were not running.

Took a carriage to Am. Express. 1 franc. Bought 2nd class ticket to Rome.


Read in reading room that Congress had voted the President fifty millions for war preparations against Mexico. War ships ordered there on account of insult to flag. [US occupation of Veracruz]

Bought a string of coral beads for Marion Kennedy and a thimble. Also postal cards of Naples.

Walked home from American Ex. Co. - pretty tired. No lunch. Packed my trunk. Miss Ferris came in. After dinner finished the trunk. Paid Mrs. Dickens in full.

Last chance for Pompeii

I felt quite tired when I woke but I made up my mind I would go to Pompeii as it would be my last chance. Caught the 10:30 train but could not get a seat by the window. Sat down outside the entrance gate & read Baedeker.



Made up my mind to ride in a chair which I did. The men stopped every few minutes so the distance I covered in two hours was not great. Went through the street of Tombs and also into the house of Diomedes which is a wonderful one and saw the reservoir.


The hour was up but I took then another hour and went into the new part and saw three houses. - Saw the pot over the fire and the five skeletons lying as they were found. Vesuvius is so far away that it seems as if it were impossible for it to have caused this disaster. Paid the men 1.80.


Then walked to the last house, ate my lunch at 2 P.M. Train left at 3:30 so walked to station. Train was late, did not get to Naples till 5 P.M. Then walked for an hour along the street to see the shops and people. Finally took No. 3 train and came home.

Found a letter from Florence Humphrey. She has moved again to Pension Le Lune. I lay down till dinner. A brother and sister from Canada are here. Four languages are heard at the table-French, English, German Italian. Very tired. Mrs. Dickens does not move till Saturday.

Reading "The Last Days of Pompeii" in Naples

I spent the morning looking over my trunk re.tearing up papers. In the afternoon, I was going at 3:30 with Miss Ferris to ride to Posillipo, but she had to wait for a dress maker and for afternoon tea, so it was 5 pm before we started.

We rode a short distance which proved to be the end of the car line. Then we got out and walked a few steps, but Miss Ferris didn’t like it so we got into the car again, this time in the closed part and were soon back at the pension. There we took a short walk to Toretta to do an errand and walked back.

Major and Mrs. Rogers left today for their home in Malta. They turned out very pleasant people after all and we exchanged addresses. I gave Mrs. Rogers the new buffalo nickel and the new Lincoln penny.

Came to my room soon after dinner and read The Last Days of Pompeii [1834].

War began in Mexico. Vera Cruz taken.

Naples Aquarium and Shopping (no Vesuvius)

I planned to go up Mt. Vesuvius today but Dr. S who is here and knows Naples thoroughly told me he did not think I would see the crater at all as there has been so much smoke. [Previous major eruption in 1906]. He did not believe the guard would let anyone approach near the edge. So I gave up the trip.



Miss Ferris and I went out. I went to the aquarium and spent almost two hours there. Very interesting.


Lay down after lunch. About 4, Miss Ferris and I started for the Cinematograph, but after we got there Miss Ferris did not like the advertised subject so we did not go in, went to Cook’s American Express Co. and to lots of stores. Bought a little blue pin for 4 francs as a souvenir.

Walked home alone through the Park. Miss Ferris rode.

Spent the evening in the drawing room with Major and Mrs. Rogers who go back to Malta tomorrow. Miss Claire Ferris was there too.

Letter from Miss Wilt - she has lost her fountain pen. She is well and at a nice pension.

Naples and Villa Nazionale

Had Breakfast in bed - got up late – went to the English church with Miss Ferris. The acoustics are so poor that I could not hear well.

We walked home through the Villa Nazionale.



After dinner rested in my chair by finishing my letter. Then went out with Miss Ferris.

We were going to the aquarium*, but instead we sat in the upper verandah of the café and had an ice while we listened to the band and watched the crowd. We walked home.


Wrote to Alfred after dinner. Dinner was a very good one.

Had a postal from Miss Schwabe. She expects me there Friday, the 24th.

Ultimatum sent to Huerta to salute the US flag by G.P.M. on invasion. [The Tampico Affair]
(Fact learned from Daily Graphic at Miss Schwabe’s in Rome.)

*The Naples Aquarium, founded in 1873, was the first aquarium opened to the public.

Day off in Naples, shopping

Was tired so took my sponge bath and had breakfast in bed. Got dressed about ten. Washed out 7 h’chiefs.

Expected to go to Mrs. Dicken’s new house with her, but she had asthma so badly that she could not leave the house. Miss Ferris came in and invited me to go down town with her which I did.

She went to the Cunard office and then we wandered among the shops and came back to lunch. Sat by my window and wrote to the dear family.

Miss Ferris invited me to walk into Park and go to the shops which I did. We had a pleasant walk, stopped to hear the band play a selection and watch the people. Paid 2 cents for a chaise. Went into a couple of shops and gazed into many shop windows.



Bought some antiphlogistine* for Mrs. Dickens and later put some on her. It was hot and she said it felt good. Did not go into the drawing room but wrote a long letter home.

*Antiphlogistine: Medicated Poultice is a time-proven Kaolin clay poultice that provides temporary relief from muscle strain, sprains, etc.

Naples and Capodimonte Museum

I had a good night’s rest. My tooth is better. I still have no watch so Amelia called me. Miss Wilt came in before I was dressed, I gave her all the change I had - 20 liras. They left for Rome and I went to the carriage to see them off.

Had b’fast with the English doctor. I came into my room and I am writing this up and doing various odds and ends. Had a nice letter from Peggy* and one from Alfred* - my first letters from the children.

Puttered all the morning-went out into the office and found Mrs. Dickens there. She was suffering badly from asthma. Miss Ferris came in and we had a long talk.

After lunch, came in and wrote to Florence Humphrey - then went out with Miss Ferris. We went to Capodimonte.**



Coming back, met the English doctor. The table was full tonight at dinner. I sat next to the young English fellow who came yesterday and we talked fishes almost all the time. Spent the evening in the drawing room. Got my watch back.

* Peggy (Margaret) and Alfred, two of her children.
**The Palace and Museum of Capodimonte is a grand Bourbon palazzo in Naples, Italy, formerly the summer residence of the kings of the Two Sicily’s. It houses the main museum and art gallery of the city.

Back to Naples from Amalfi

Miss Wilt, Miss Peet got up before six, I a little later. Dressed and went out again on the top. Saw the big kitchen and watched them prepare vegetables, butter. Looked into the cloister. went out on another roof and looked at the terraces with oranges and lemons. Then went in the big grand colonnade, the long walk cut out of the rock and covered with grapes, roses, lemons and with quantities of beautiful flowers everywhere. You get a beautiful view of the sea. It was absolutely charming.



Had b’fast in the refectory at 7:15, bread toast and coffee brought in little pots with separate pitchers of hot milk and honey. I had a boiled egg. 5 cents. Then we went into the chapel and saw a crèche which was certainly peculiar and not wonderful with all its little figures all dressed in clothes. Went into the cloister, in fact, walked everywhere I could to see what the old monastery was like. Saw the little tiny rooms-was certainly enchanted with it. Saw Mrs. Sangster and Mrs.Coffin there, 2 of the Princess Irene passengers on the way to Istanbul.

Started at 9 for Sorrento, a hot and interesting drive, but not beautiful as the sea was grayish and there was no wonderful coloring. Got to Sorrento at one. Driver tried to make us pay 4 francs to see Miriam Crawford’s place* but we wouldn’t; reduced it to 2 francs but we wouldn’t.

Went to Hotel Tramontano** which is a beautiful place. We were all tired but a cup of tea and toast, some bouillon and stewed fruit made us all right. Had to pay 7 ½ francs for that but as Miss Wilt said it was worth it to see the hotel where sixteen Kings, Queens, Emperors and Empresses had stayed. The gardens were beautiful. Saw a bed of Baby Blue Eyes, Nemophila, California wildflowers.



Went up to the shops where I bought some inlaid boxes. Had a lot of fun over buying a box for Miss Peet who got her cheek cut looking for Miss Wilt’s handbag so Miss W. and I said we would get her a tip. She picked out a little box which I wanted to give Miss W. a little stamp box-then they gave me one, a franc a piece. I shall always keep mine. Then I bought a blue silk sweater, cheap one. 3.60 but it will do.

Went down the lift and found the sea rough. Got into a small boat and the boatman rowed us out to meet the boat from Capri. The sea was so rough that Miss W. was dreadfully frightened. Finally got in boat and had a beautiful sail into Naples. Got into another small boat and had another row with the boatman over what I don’t know. Two other men passengers, Germans got mad and there were great curses...

We [arrived?] on land and went off as fast as we could. Got in car and had to stand up all the way and had a good time getting the conductor to know just where we wanted to go. Had a very nice dinner. The English people gone. Ten new ones here. Went into the drawing room and showed Miss Ferris and the English mother and daughter my purchases in Sorrento. Miss Wilt, Miss Peet came in and I showed them my things also little John’s pictures.***

*Francis Marion Crawford (1854-1909) Italian-born American prolific author and historian wrote the Saracinesca Trilogy: Saracinesca, (1887) Sant' Ilario, (1889) and Don Orsino. (1892)
**Imperial Hotel Tramontano in Sorrento
***John Hincks, her first grandchild, son of Percy and Hazel.

Drive from Naples to Amalfi Coast

View Larger Map

It was not very clear so I wanted to postpone the trip. but although the English people at the table were going tomorrow and had an extra seat, they would not ask me so decided to go with Miss Wilt and Miss Peet.

We met at breakfast and they went off early for time to shop and do errands. Wrote a note to Miss Schwabe - telling her I would like to come the 24th if I could go around with the guests of her pension but did not wish to go sightseeing alone. Got started by 11.15 but no train in sight. Sent for a carriage. Didn’t come.

Miss Ferris, a nice American girl from Stratford came along, said “Go by train” so I got into the #2 didn’t go to the station, got out, saw my carriage, ran after it, got in in front of Mrs. Dickens and rode to the station, 2 ½ francs per person-a franc too much. I got there at 12:05.

No Miss Wilt – stood waiting - no seats - asked if this were the right station - “si si” finally two minutes before train time they came and we all rushed to the train, got in helped by an old man who had to have tip, ate lunch on train, changed cars, got on a local, went to La Cava.

Cook’s man met us, put us in carriage, two horses and we started. Rode into an alley where driver’s relations came out and helped him get ready, got him a whip, a coat, a hat. At the next turn, he had a great parley – loud voices and we had to get into another carriage.


We drove to Ravello and then to Amalfi. The drive was beautiful with the sea on the left and the interesting country on our right. The mountains are all terraced and the terraces held in place by stone walls usually lots of bollins of solid cement or cement covered with panels filled in with loose or fitted rocks.

These terraces connected by stone steps usually …planted with lemon trees which were covered by matting supported by long poles or else there were oranges or olives everywhere but the mountains were steep and rocky. A number of interesting wild flowers most of which I knew at least by family.

Interesting old relics, old towers and other ruins - queer houses of the peasants, children begging everywhere holding out itching palms. We would not give. As Miss Wilt said, “It goes against my principles.”

Beautiful views and colorings in sea and land. Beautiful drive winding up the valley to Ravello.



Up there we went into the Cathedral and saw the pulpit on six lions-“3 lions and 3 lionesses” also opposite Jonah being swallowed by a whale which looks like a dragon on one side. Jonah going down head first, in the other coming out head first so he must have turned around in the whale as Miss Wilt said.



We walked to a garden and they wanted 60 cents to see it. And we wouldn’t, besides we wanted to get to Amalfi by daylight. Decided to go to the Capuchin Hotel. Drove there, found it was full, but they said they would put us in the reading room so we went up and then went out in the dome and explored around.


Had a very nice dinner and then went up stairs and walked on the magnificent terrace where we could see the lights of Amalfi in the distance. Brought some postal cards as I am keeping these for souvenirs. Finally went to bed about eleven. Our beds made of 3 lounges-four chairs for each bed. They were most comfortable-Too tired to sleep well.

Visiting Capri

Got up before seven. My tooth pained me a good deal in the night. It has a great gum boil on it.

Had b’fast before eight with an egg. Got ready and started off with Miss W and Miss P before 8:35. Went in train No. 3 to San Lucia. On the way stopped to get tickets from Paglieri’s for Capri. Paid $3.15 for those.

Took small boat to steamer and met a pleasant Chicago woman who was traveling alone so took her with us. We had seats in the back and changed to the front of the boat. Stopped at Sorrento - then went on to Capri and to the Blue Grotto which is wonderful. Stayed there about three minutes.


Then to Capri where Miss Peet and I had difficulty in landing on account of the protestations of the boatmen. Got a carriage and drove to the top, then went into some shops where I bought a fan and two coins - the others postal cards. Then we were advised to take a walk to see the view.

We went between two high walls and could see nothing but the sights in the streets - walked and walked - finally road apparently ended in a house so we turned and came back, went into an old church very queer.

Got into a carriage, rode down passed the oldest church [Chiesa di S. Costanzo] in this part of the country. It is white with 4 white towers…back to boat. Sat in the boat looking at view. Finally got so cold we went to the stern.

Got in at 6:30 went to see agency about tickets for Amalfi drive. Will take us three for $27. We had our lunch on the steamer before getting off at Capri.

Found a letter from Florence. She has to leave her place and is at a doctor at Fiesole. She wants to take a house at Asolo near Venice for a week.

Travel Planning and Naples Museum

Got up in time to have b’fast with Miss Wilt and Miss Peet. I hate these English b’fasts and I am to have an egg after this.

Went with them to American Express Office which was closed and then to Cooks where I cashed $10 check and then they inquired about the Amalfi trip. We met the Maims and the Torchkiss at Cook. We went to the Museum and had a guide who showed us the bronzes from the Mediterranean and Pompeii.



Then I took a train back and got here at 1.20, had lunch and talked an hour or so with a Miss Ferris who used to live in Stamford, Conn.*, a guest in the house.

Then I took a book by Anna K. Green, The Woman in the Alcove, and lay down and fell asleep.

Mrs. Dickens came in to tell me that Mrs. Hodgen and her daughter and Pen were there so I had a pleasant chat with them. They go to Rome tomorrow. At dinner we had a funny time but we did get along all right. Miss Wilt did not come to dinner but Miss Peet did and I went down to see her afterwards. Pen had been on the Amalfi drive and told us about it - expensive. We decided to go to Capri tomorrow if the weather is good.

No letters.

*Jennie’s father, Richard Thurston was minister in Stamford and died there in 1895.

Posillipo and Hotel Bertolini*, Naples

Easter Sunday

I could not tell the time so I did not know when to get up but I decided to have my breakfast in bed. I stole out and put a note under Miss Wilt’s cup and ask her to come and see me. It was then 5.40. Took a sponge bath - waited for the maid - rang and she brought it in at 8.20 - coffee, rolls, marmalade and I had a big apple too.

Then Miss Wilt and Miss Peet came in and we had a talk over plans. They are going sightseeing but I can’t - too tired. Dressed and started for San Pasquale**, the street of the English church. The conductor carried me beyond but I walked back and was a little late in that account.

Big bunches of calla lilies and white fleur de lis. The acoustic properties are not good and I sat in the rear so I lost a good deal. Walked home through the Park. Found letter from Pen and one from Mrs. Hodgen apologizing for hurrying away from the pier. They went to Pompeii Friday afternoon and then took the Sorrento drive. Reach Naples tomorrow AM and leave for Rome in the PM, asked me to go but can’t. Wrote Mrs. Hodgen to that effect.

At 3.40 Miss. Wilt, Miss Peet and I went out to drive. We went to Posillipo, Vomero, Via Tasso to Bertolini’s.* Beautiful views of the bay and surrounding country and of Vesuvius.

Then to Bertolini’s*. We went up in the lift and had tea on the broad piazza. It certainly was a wonderful view. Finest in the world, Florence B.*** says. The trains do not run today because it is Easter so we kept our carriage and rode home reaching there at 6.40.


Put on my black silk for dinner. Sat next to a man who has been twice in America. We had a nice family party at supper and talked about everything. Very nice dinner. I only ate a little. Miss Peet did not come to dinner so after dinner I went to see her. Trip cost 1.24 each.

*Bertolini’s Palace Hotel in Naples, no longer in existence as such. Here is its current incarnation
** Christ Church, Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 15b
***Her sister