Checking boats home and a good dinner

I slept very well and the pain in my back is better. I think it is sciatica. I found Helen feeling very poorly. She had had a bad night from heat and indigestion. She stayed in bed all the morning. Mr. Betham came in and I had another lesson on the paper. Then I wrote a note to Florence. – at one I started out to mail it. Stopped at Thomas Cook’s and found a postal card from Florence at Florence. She feels the heat very much. She is at the Crocini.

Went to the P.O. and then to the Am. Consul’s where I was told that the Carpathia* was to sail Aug. 31st and that probably normal conditions would ensue. Bought some supplies and came home. Tried to buy some felt roosters for my two babies, but they asked too much. We had lunch at 3 and cleared away the things. Then I slept an hour and a half. Then Helen and I got dressed and went down to the public gardens where we walked around and watched the children and then went to a restaurant in the park and had chicken, spinach and macaroni and very good too. Sat in the park till nearly 10 P.M. and came home and read two short stories by Conan Doyle. Helen feels better tonight. Poor ink.

*The Carpathia was a Cunard ship which had been involved in the rescue of the Titanic’s passengers in 1912. On September 5th, 1914, it was fined by the Italian government for transporting emigrants without a license.

Milan

I think I was too excited over my Italian lesson to sleep well. Made arrangements with Miss Betham for hot water to wash my hair and had a fuss with the two sisters over the towels as they said they never gave but two a week. However, they ended by giving me two clean ones. They brought the water in ¾ of an hour late so I could not go out this morning as I had planned. After washing my hair, I washed my nightdress and other things and mended my stockings and made a little pincushion and stuffed it with pieces of F.B.H.’s old cotton gloves. Helen went out to get milk and rolls and we had lunch and then we went to the Piazza Reale and went through the King’s apartments which were very fine. We went into the Duomo a few minutes where three frightened homesick Americans accosted us. I left Helen with them and went home to take my Italian lesson. Read several columnists in today’s paper.

Then Helen and I went out an took a nice car-ride – no. 26 – by the Giardino Pubblico, got back in time for dinner which was so-so. In the evening, we went to a moving picture show which was poor – got home about 10.40.

Bought some baume analgesique to run on my back which has ached ever since I was in Venice. Nice letter from Florence written in Oregon July 16 – Alfred, Mr. O’Conner, Julia and Laura Hainer were going into the High Sierras together.

There is no fresh news of the war. Italian papers are filled with German brutalities.

Sightseeing in Milan -- thinking about whether to leave

Slept very well. Had b’fast in bed and had a good time studying the Italian adverbs. It must be the reason they are so unstable, they have so many adverbs to slip around in – a great many mean the same thing.

Mended my white skirt where it reamed out. It was after eleven before I was ready to go out. We went to Cook’s. No letter – to Am. Express Co. – no letter – then back to Cook’s to see if there were a telegram; found a letter from F.B.H. saying she was all right and going to the Crochini.

Went to Am. Consul’s. No news. Saw an assistant who said don’t be frightened and don’t get into that horrid crowd of frightened Americans. If you have money, stay over and enjoy yourselves. We bought some peaches and came home and had lunch. Then lay down; I had a fine nap. Went to Cook’s and found that the trunks were all right, did not have to be opened.

Then we took a train ride to Sempione. We went by Napoleon’s arch and by a beautiful park. Got back in time for dinner. The brother was there. The two sisters and the brother drank two big bottles of red wine. The dinner was very nice – vegetable soup, string beans, chicken with browned potatotes – cheese and peaches – about two francs.

Then I took a lesson in reading the Italian papers. They do not seem like real news, but like reading a history. I hope the Germans and Austrians are thoroughly beaten. I detest them.

Sightseeing in Milan

I slept well and feel better, but my back still aches. Had b’fast in bed and then my bath. Studied Italian grammar hard for an hour. Helen went out and came back about one. She got 200 lire in her letter of credit at the Bianco Cos??? No letter at Thomas Cook and Sons from Florence. She went to the consul’s and had the error in the date of her registration certificate changed. He had written it to expire at once. Helen said it was posted in Am. consul’s office steerage passage to America $150.

She went out a second time to get milk and rolls and we had lunch in my room. It cost us each nine cents – milk, an egg, rolls, cake, no fruit. We have the greatest time over our money. We settle up every night before we go to bed and often two or three times a day – one pays for the other, or buys food re. – Lunch was not over till after three. Then we both lay down.

We went out about 5.30, went to the Piazza del Duomo and took a car no. 10 and rode to the end and back and then we were looking for a restaurant that Miss Betham told us about and lo! There was Dr. Giglioli, jolly, nice as ever – asked about Florence and admired our going to a cooler place – Said he thought Italy would remain neutral – Said he thought this war was all the fault of Germany – that England would beat Germany on the sea – that Germany would beat France on land and that Russia would eventually beat Germany and Austria for she was the only great nation that raised all her own food. –

Dr. G took us to a quiet restaurant where he goes and Helen and I sat out of doors and had a quiet dinner. Then we sat awhile and I tried to read an Italian newspaper. Then we walked about and at nine sat in front of the caffé Biffe and listened to the music for an hour and had an ice. Met the Misses Betham coming back – we chatted for a while upstairs. We are to have dinner with them tomorrow.

Verona to Milan

Got up at 6. Finished packing – had b’fast at 7.15. We got off at 7.40 and rode to station. We had seats by the window 3rd class. There were two sailors from the Lake of Garda near us. I got talking with them and one of them showed me his wife and babies’ pictures. I had a great time trying to tell them how we ate corn ??? in America.

We had several different traveling companions on our way to Milan which we reached about 12.20. Left our things in deposits and started in a tram for Cooks’ – no letters there, then went and got a simple lunch - 25 cts. a piece in a 3rd class place, but we have to be economical.

Then looked up the first pension given in Baedeker. Miss Betham Via Brera 5. They had closed their pension and were going away when the war broke out – now they don’t know what to do. At first they – two sisters – said they couldn’t take us, but finally said they could for 3 fr. 1 ½ apiece room and caffé latté in the morning – we didn’t decide to take them and went to the consul where Helen got a certificate of citizenship.

The consul had just arrived from America. He said not to be afraid and to get what pleasure you could and no need yet for people to go home. An Italian company is sending vessels back and asking $100 for steerage. A battleship has sailed from U.S. with $2,000,000 in gold for Americans.

Then we posted two postals to Florence in Firenze and went to Bella Venezia hotel where they wanted 11 frs. a day for pension –so then we came back to Via Brera 5, took the rooms and left our things there. Then went to station on tram and got our things and Helen rode back with them. She wanted me to, but I felt tired and cross and wouldn’t. Found Helen here when I got in. I was so dead tired and my back ached so I went right to bed. Helen came in and heated the milk and I had hot bread, milk for supper. Helen had malted milk, rolls and peaches. I slept very well indeed.

Visiting churches in Verona

Slept very well – did not wake up till 8.30. We were very lazy and had breakfast before we dressed – then dressed slowly. It was 11.30 before we started out.

We went to the P.O. first and got our last Daily Mail – July 31st. Then took a train to St. Zeno Piazza – we went into the church* which was closed but I lent the sacristan the morning paper and we glanced around the church. It was very interesting and I studied it out with Baedecker, but I’ve forgotten already what it looked like. The old doors with old bronze reliefs were most interesting and so were the two lions that supported the front pillars of the portico.

Then we went outside the city gate near by and saw the old fortifications and the dried up moat. Then we took a train and went to Piazza San Trino way the other end of the line. It was a beautiful ride and all for two cents. Then we came back as far as our street the “four ??” “Quattro spade” and got home about two.

Then Helen and I got lunch – eggs and peaches and hot milk for me and malted milk for Helen. Then we took a nap and at 5.30 started out again – we went to the Duomo and across the old Roman bridge Pietra and to see the remnants of the Roman theatre and to San Giorgio [in] Braida and then came back to the hotel where I saw the proprietors and paid our bill in full.

Then we had dinner at 8 P.M. and came up to pack our things.

I cannot find out much about the conditions of the war. It seems that one of the Vanderbilts is here and has chartered a steamer and takes back 440 Americans among them Pres. Buller [Butler] of Columbia Univ**. The boat sails the 12th.

*Basilica di San Zeno **Nicolas Murray Butler, President of Columbia University, 1901-1945.

Visit to opera and sightseeing in Verona. News that Lieges is taken

We all had b’fast in the large bedroom and at 9.30 Florence left for Florence. Helen went to the P.O., found a letter from Thos. Cook & Son, Milan saying the missing trunks were there so she took it right to the station to show Florence.

Then Helen and I went out to walk. We went to San Maggiore and around by the Duomo and by the Amphitheatre house. We had lunch in our own room – mine was hot-bread and milk. I did not feel at all well and I slipped on the polished tiling and fell.

We lay down and had a good rest and about five went out to walk again. We bought tickets for the opera tonight in the amphitheatre and took a car ride to Porta Santa Nuova and back. Dinner was late. Then we came upstairs and got our thick things.

I went to the opera.* Helen took her steamer rug and we sat on the broad stone seats and watched the opera. It was wonderful and I enjoyed it very much and would have more if I had not been so sleepy. The stage was so large it made a splendid setting and the moon rose and shone over all. There were a great many in the lire seats. There were a great many performers and the orchestra was good. It was over at 12.07 – we went home after waiting till the greater part of the crowd had gone.

It was 1.30 before we got to bed. I hear that Lieges is taken by the Germans.

*Carmen

Peaches in Verona and more war news

We had b’fast together. Helen boiled eggs and we had cut up peaches. Then we all went out to see something of the town.

We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.

She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.

F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.

Venice to Verona

Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.

It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.

A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.

They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.

Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.

We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.

Money from home; Senate sends ships for Americans

Got started late this morning for I stopped to write 3 postals. Rec’d a registered letter from Alfred, forward by registered mail from the mail clerk at French Lemon. Also a postal from Margaret saying that Duncan is better and a wild appeal from Florence Humphrey from Verona begging me to write to her re. and she never addressed it to me but only to French Lemon & Co. No wonder she loses mail.

Alfred sent me $165 – $50 from Aunt Marion, $45 – P.W. Co and $65 from him. Wrote F.T.H. telling her again where I was – to Alfred ach. {knowledging] money and to French Lemon ach. [knowledging] letter and the one addressed postal. Mailed them myself at branch P.O.

Then went to public library – saw some handsome illuminated books, bought a few Venetian beads. Then came home. After lunch about 8 [sic] I started out to go to Murano, walked from the Rialto bridge across the city to the water front. Those queer narrow streets and little squares were most interesting.

Took the boat to Murano – a short pretty ride. Went to two churches and the museum, but thought my trip was a failure. Walked back to the Rialto. Very tired. A lady came to see me who had seen Florence in Verona this a.m. Said F. had not heard and was afraid I had gone on to Munich without any money. They all went to the opera last night however.

War news seems to be quieting down. Consul wants every American to come for registration papers. Heard that the Senate had voted to send over ships for stranded Americans so perhaps I will have to go home willy nilly.

More war news and sightseeing

Feel very tired this morning as is very apt to be the case. Received postal from Florence. She was in the train to Bozen* with many soldiers. An Austrian officer advised her to go back to Italy at once, so she and Helen are going to Verona and want me to join them. I wrote a card to her and to Alfred and finished letter to Margaret and went to post office to mail them. They said mail was going to America – went over the central part of the Rialto bridge – very interesting.

Bought some of the cheap printed goods that the people wear. Tried to come home through the Merceria** but came somehow made a wrong turn and had to inquire and inquire, but finally reached S. Marco and then walked to the ferry and then home.

Bought two Italian papers and came home and tried to read the war news with my dictionary. Young Mr. Conte says that Austria is making war in Servia – that Russia has declared war against Germany and Germany against France – that England will be drawn into it as the ally of Russia and France but that Italy will remain neutral. Lay down and fell asleep.

Then studied Baedecker and decided to cross the ferry and walk over to the church of San Giovanni il Paolo.*** I did and enjoyed the walk immensely – enjoyed the church too – then came back by way of the Rialto bridge – going through all sorts of queer little narrow “calles” or streets and campo. Took the Vaporetto.****

12 new people came today. Everyone is talking about the war and everyone wants to get back to U.S. Listened to the talk awhile, then came up and tried to read some more of the Italian paper. Do not like this pension. It is second class.

*Before World War 1, Bozen was part of the Austro-Hungarian county of Tyrol. It was annexed by Italy at the end of the World War 1.
**Merceria is the main shopping street of Venice. It begins near the Rialto Bridge as a small square and goes to St Mark's Square.
***San Giovanni e Paolo
****Water-bus

Americans trying to get passage home

I went to the Museo Civico and spent a most interesting morning in looking over the collections. The guards are all old men and before I got back I had given something to a lot of them, not because they had done anything, but simply because they were old.

I was fifty minutes getting home, and so was very late, 1.40, when I sat down to lunch. Heard that the American consul had sent word to all pensions and hotels requesting all Americans to register – so two of us went around to do so - found the office full of frightened Americans – most of them people who had passage taken on some ship for this morning.

German ships have cancelled sailings and it is impossible to get to France or England to take passage from those countries. Consul advised us not to try to leave Italy as Italy was neutral and safe. Said I couldn’t get into Austria if I tried.

Came back to pension and went to Pension Gregori after mail. Said he had forwarded a postal to me. Then to Am. Exp. Co. - no letters.

Had an ice and listened to the music in the Piazzetta – came home. Found everyone wild with excitement. 500 Americans are trying to charter a steamer to take them home - $100 apiece. I listened to them reading war news. Read Cosmopolitan magazine to quiet my mind before going to bed. Some Italians in a wine shop near here argued so long and fiercely that I couldn’t get to sleep. They did the same thing last night.

Sightseeing and declaration of war by Germany

Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.

Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.

After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.

Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.

Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.

Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.

Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.

*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.

New lodgings in Venice

Had a profuse perspiration in the night and woke up without pain, but weak. Had breakfast in bed – got up about eleven and dressed – but did not go out. Intended to go to station with the Oudesluys – but all four were going in one gondola so I said goodbye at the house.

Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.

Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.

The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.

Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.

I am going to bed, tired but happy.

Fever and toothache -- resting in bed

I had another bad night and had indigestion beside so I had to get up and have a peppermint patty. Towards morning, the pain became less, but I have a big swelling on the side of the roof of my mouth – spent most of the morning dozing. I made up my mind I wouldn’t go tomorrow with the O’s but when I found my temp was 100 ½ (It dropped to 99 ½ this morning) decided I must get out of bed so I began to pick up my things.

The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.

*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."

Toothache, infection, and fever

I had a dreadful night – up and down all night, but I did get a few short naps. Had my meals in bed – principally soup or hot milk as my mouth is so sore I can’t chew and my throat is sore so I can hardly swallow.

The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.

I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.

Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.

Visiting San Marco; toothache

I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.

Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.

My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.

* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.

Art galleries, mail, and bath-houses

Could not sleep so got up at 3.30 and had a peppermint patty, and wrote a note to F.B. H. who has left Pellegrino and is on her way to Cortina to meet us. My letter is to catch her at Riva. I went to the Rialto to mail it and some postcards to Marion for bridge cards.

The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.

Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.

Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.

After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.

Post cards, errands, and Grand Canal tour by gondola

I wrote till after midnight before I finished my letter to Percy about the furniture. This morning I read it over and added another note and sent him some seeds – zucchini and blue morning glory. I also sent Percy’s letter to Margaret – so that she could understand the whole affair. It took me till nearly eleven before I could get my things ready to post.

Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.

Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.

I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.

I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.

I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.

Sunday services in Venice

Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.

Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.

Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.

After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.

It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.

Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.

We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.