Readying to Leave Siena

I was late in starting out having finished letter to Margaret inc. letter from Alfred and my answer, also 3 Kodak prints of myself and other letters re.

Went to Museo of Duomo – chapel of San Giovanni and Piccolomini Library.* Got there a few minutes before twelve, not knowing it closed at twelve. Guard said we must leave and to come back in afternoon or tomorrow, so went back at 2:30. Saw all the frescoes and bought over 4 francs worth of postals of Siena and a marble bowl from the Museo. Some of these postals I bought on the Via Carmi (sp?). Took a book out of library about San Gimignano, bought seeds and wafers off a peddler to try them.

Came home and settled bill with Signora. She is not friendly, I suppose because I would not pay for my breakfasts served in my room. Then too I thought it was 18 when it was 19 - paid 116.50. Paid 6.50 for having shoes repaired, a very high price. Signorina Orlandi came, but she was distraite and I was tired so the lesson was not a success. Paid her 9 lire. After dinner, packed my bag and hold all, also read about San Gimignano and wrote in this diary. I am glad I am going to leave this pension.

* Both the Piccolomini Library and St. John the Baptist Chapel are located in the Duomo di Siena.

Duomo and Strawberries

Sat up so late last night writing to Alfred that I was tired this morning. Had strawberries for b’fast. Had a letter from Helen. Dr. Giglioli wants her to go to the San Pellegrino* if only for 10 days so she is going.

Went to the Duomo for a while this morning and was much impressed with it. Brought some strawberries on the way home. Tried to buy six centessimi - 1 1/5 cents – worth instead of six soldi** – 6 cents.

Lay down after lunch – then went down to see the cobbler about my shoes. Then studied Italian till Signorina Orlandi came. Also studied this morning and this noon. We had a funny conversation tonight with the so-called count – think he is just an ordinary teacher – in Italian, French, and German. Wrote a note to Helen to say, I wanted to go to San Gimignano*** and would not reach Florence till 7 P.M. Also wrote to French Lemon to ask them to send my letters to Pension Crocini.

*Probably San Pellegrino Terme in Lombardy
**”Soldi” are old Italian coins worth 5 centesimi.

Medical Mishap Averted

I had a dreadful fright this morning. The maid who brought my hot water gave me a small bottle ½ full of liquid and partly by words and partly by gestures explained that she had broken my bottle in dusting, but had brought me another of the same medicine. I thought she meant that she had passed what was left of the cascara into another bottle, but in handing the bottle found it left a yellow stain in my hand and it proved to be tincture of iodine.

What would have become of me if I had taken 40 drops of tincture of iodine? I don’t know. I went right down to the Signora and she called the maids up and talked to them well, but I don’t think it made much impression and indeed I think she helped them get the medicine. Was much shaken up over it. Went to church and gave 5 lire for a thanks offering. Wrote to Florence to tell her about what had happened to me and to tell her of father’s 3 accidents to prove to her that she couldn’t have his disease.

Began a letter to Alfred. Took a nap – then went over to get some gelato – ice-cream – a German woman came up and sat with me and we talked a while in four languages. She was alone and lonely and her only son is in America. Came home and sat in my window to listen to the band playing in the Lizza.

Walked in the Lizza with the Oudesluys after dinner. Sat up till after midnight writing to Alfred about the disposition of the furniture in California.

Letters, Letters

Helen came into my room soon after six all dressed and ready to go, and even then she had not fully decided to go, but the maid called her and she left to get her b’fast and then came back and said good-by and started for Florence with Mrs. Clement and Miss Jeannerett.

Had b’fast and studied Italian. Then the maid came in with the mail for me from French Lemon & Co., two letters from Percy, one from Alfred enclosing $60, in money, one from Margaret, one from Florence S., one from F.B.H. and one from Uncle Hugh with his fifth manuscript, 2 to Helen from Hotel des Thermes. I wrote a note to Helen and addressed it to the Riccioli* and enclosed her two letters and the one I rec’d from F.B.H. and sent it, also sent one to Crocini for fear she might have gone there. Also forwarded to F. B. H. a note that Florence S. had sent her in my care and wrote her a little note.

Talked about Venice and the Dolomite trip with Mrs. O. and found out how much they were expected to cost. Wrote to F. B. about them. Mailed the letters about 3, went up town to Mosca’s to hunt for Nellie’s card case. “Not found,” the clerk said. Came back and studied hard an hour and a half on my Italian before Signorina Orlandi came. Had a good lesson. The Italian was at dinner and we had a polyglot conversation again. Left the table to look at the soldiers returning from Africa. Sat on the porch. Miss Gamble and her friend came over. Miss G. had taken the Dolomite trip and told us a lot about it. Mrs. O. and I walked around the Lizza** and came in. I am tired and going to bed.

Alfred’s landlady, Mrs. Johnstone, died very suddenly. I am sorry. She was a nice woman. He is well. He wrote me about the furniture. Could not find my cascara,*** but just pieces of the bottle. It must have been broken.

*Probably Riccioli, Via dei Tintori, mentioned in Italy Handbook for Travellers, by Karl Baedeker, 1906
** City park, La Lizza.
***Cascara-medicinal bark taken for constipation.

Sightseeing in Old Siena

Dressed somewhat earlier so as to go with Helen and Miss Jeannerett. We went through the oldest part of Siena – Via Castel Vecchio re to the Porta San Marco. We visited three churches en route – The Oratory of St. Mary of the Snow – and the Convento del Carmine and I do not remember the other – nothing of especial interest. We saw an old woman making twine out of flax. – We watched her a few minutes and then I gave her two cents – Lay down a few minutes before lunch. Slept 1 ½ hours after lunch – then changed my dress and started in to study. Wrote two exercises when Helen came in from her call on Miss Haskell and we talked over plans. She hates to go to Florence, but I want her to go to see Dr. Giglioli for I think he can help her and she needs help.

I had an interesting lesson with Signorina Orlandi – and I am learning with her.
At dinner I talked to the gentleman who sat next to me – in school girl French and worse Italian and convulsed the English speaking crowd. I heard afterwards that he was a count. He speaks French and German, of course Italian, understands English, but cannot speak it. After dinner Mrs. Clement, Miss Jeannerett, Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I sat in the parlor chatting. Mrs. Clement and her daughter go tomorrow. Helen is packed but does not know whether to go or not. She wants to see Florence’s letter. She dreads going alone – but it is only a two hour ride.

Churches and Italian Studies

Went with Mrs. Oudesluys, Mrs. Clement, Helen, Miss Jeannerette and Flora Davis to the church of Santo Spirito on the Via Ricasoli – then with Helen and Miss Jeannerette to the Porta Romana. It was a most interesting morning and we saw interesting old houses and queer old streets. I stopped at the church coming back and got my card case and it is a beauty.



Lay down an hour after lunch – then studied Italian till five when I went out with Mrs. O and Helen to the church of Santa Maria di Fontegiusta. It is the most beautiful church I have ever seen with the most beautiful altar, nothing tawdry about it.

I came back to take my lesson and Helen and Mrs. O went in the Cusurelli* farm. They reached there so late that they stayed to dinner and did not get back till nearly nine.

I had a very nice lesson with Signoria Orlandi. She will make me learn if anyone can.

After dinner went upstairs to sit with Hortense O. who has been in bed all day. We were speculating as to what had happened to her mother and Helen when they came in and told us of their adventures.

I wrote to the Pension Crocini and to French Lemon & Co. to send me my mail.

*Possibly Lucarelli, a town outside of Tuscany, which has a farm house which has had guests since the 1880’s.

Siena Duomo

Slept pretty well. After breakfast, moved my things into the front room, no. 8 that Miss Herron had. I like it very much. Then Helen and I went out to the Duomo for an hour and I looked at the pavement and the upper rose window of the Last Supper.


Meant to have laid down but I got reading The New York Times that Mrs. Clement lent me. I did take a nap in my chair. Oh by the way – I have a rocking chair.

My teacher, Signorina Vittoria Orlandi, came by at 5 and I like her very much indeed. After she left, I studied till time to get ready for dinner. After dinner chatted awhile with Mrs. Clement, Mrs. and Miss O. and Helen. Then we four went out into the park and took a walk.

Studied Italian awhile after I came in.

Palazzo dei Diavoli

Woke up soon after 5 and could not go to sleep. Got up a little after six and wrote a letter to Uncle Hugh enclosing Florence’s letter from San Pellegrino.

Washed out some gloves, h’chiefs re – did some sewing – went out with Helen to take a tram ride but the tram was so late in starting that we thought we should not have time before lunch – so started home – Met the English woman from the Crocini, Mrs. Moore. She said Mrs. Wylde was going to the Dolomites tomorrow.

Did not lie down after lunch but mended my clothes instead. Expected the Italian teacher at four – but she came at five and said she could not give me a lesson today, but would tomorrow at 5.

Then Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I went out and got into a train that went to the Piazza Diavoli*. It was a pleasant ride. We walked back going into a church on the way – near the house. I came into the house and rested while the others sat in the park.

After dinner, sat with Helen, Mrs. Clement and her daughter, Miss Jeanerette. They told lots of funny stories, Miss. J. especially of the quaint things her Italian pupils in New York had said. It is cold tonight.

*Probably the Palazzo dei Diavoli, sometimes called the Palazzo del Turco, and located outside the Porta Camillia.

Cimitero della Misericordia (Cemetery of Mercy) Siena

Slept till 8:30. Had b’fast – afterwards went out with Helen to the market and bought some wild strawberries and was dreadfully cheated by the woman. I came back and stewed them for breakfast – tomorrow.

Helen said that I did not need to go back to Florence with her but that I could stay on here and come up later and she would go and consult the doctor and do what he said – but she would try to persuade him to let her go into Switzerland with me. The Signora will give me the room Miss Herron has. She leaves tomorrow.

Talked with the Clements awhile before lunch. Lay down after lunch and had a good sleep of 1 ½ hours – finished my family letter and mailed it.

Helen and I walked out to the cemetery of the Misericordia and saw the monuments there – the beautiful Pieta* re and walked back.



After dinner, we talked to Miss H. and Mrs. Cl., then I wrote a note to Florence and to the Italian teacher Miss H. recommended and Signora sent the maids out to mail them.

*probably the Pieta created by Giovanni Dupré in 1863 for the family tomb of the Marchese Bichi-Ruspoli in the cemetery of the Misericordia, Siena.

Siena on a Sunday: "A band went past at midnight playing lustily"

After I got home last night I had a peppermint patty and read a two weeks old Sunday home paper so I was 1.40 A.M. before I got to bed. I did not get up till 9.30 and had only a cup of caffe latte for b’fast. I went to the Eng. Epis. church with Mrs. and Miss O. [Oudesluy] and heard a very good sermon by a Rev. Mr. Read about giving and going to the communion.

After lunch lay down for 1 ½ hours – then began a family letter about the play we went to last night. Finished it at 12.30 this Monday morning.

Went to 6 o’clock even song at the English church and spoke to the pastor, Rev. Mr. Read. We had a pleasant talk together about his morning sermon and about the fact that many in his audience were probably members of other denominations and so did not respond to his invitation to take the communion. He said that people traveling should not feel so but were welcome as guests at the Lord’s Table.

Coming home I sat in the park awhile listening to the music and watching the people. After dinner Helen and I walked with the two sisters from Detroit, the Misses Gamble to see the Duomo by moonlight. We talked of California and of Egypt and had a most pleasant walk. Coming home I went upstairs and finished my family letter and wrote this diary. A band went past at midnight playing lustily.

Celebrating the 4th at the Lizza

Siena, Italy, Saturday July 4th, 1914 [Visit to Church of Osservanza and play at Teatro della Lizza]
As usual had breakfast in bed and studied Italian – the only time I find to give to it. Then Helen came in and asked me if I wanted to go to the leather shops with the O’s [Oudesluys] and herself so I went while they bargained for lessons. I ordered myself a pretty card case for 9 lire.

Then Helen and I wandered around the queer old streets till lunch time. Brought 3 kinds of soap. Did not lie down after lunch as I should have done but wrote a number of the contrade post-cards to send off.

At five o’clock we went out to the church of Osservanza, outside the gates. We had two carriages – going. Helen, Hortense O., and I had one and Mrs. O., Mrs. Clement and Mrs. Geuneret had the other. Coming back Mrs. G. took Helen’s place. It was a beautiful ride with lovely wild flowers. Saw the large and small St. John’s wort and the wild scabiosa. The church was interesting and we went into the sacristy and into the vaults where Hortense ?? on two rings when the monk was out of sight. The Della Robbia was really beautiful. The only one I have enjoyed and so were some of the old illuminated pages in the old parchment books.

At dinner the O’s, Helen and I decided to go to the Teatro della Lizza* to celebrate the 4th – An Englishman at the table said he was going to celebrate the 4th and we told him it was good of him and had lots of fun over it. We went over at 8.40 and bought seats – “Posti distiniti” – for 60 centimes each – Entrance being 1 lira. We had a great time getting in for we went the wrong way and the few people there were in the theatre, talked and pointed – and we finally understood we had to go out and around a corridor. Our seats were just chairs fastened to a long board to hold them in place. 2 rows in front were separate cushioned chairs 2 lira each where the English people were. A boy came around and we hired cushions at 10 centimes each. The play was “The Dollar Princess” – but we did not discover who the heroine was. It didn’t begin until 9.20 and was in 3 sets with long waits between, so it was 12.15 before it was over. We were stiff from sitting so long on our hard chairs – though we stood up a couple of times between the acts. We enjoyed our outing but decided we didn’t want to go any more.

*existed 1859-1942.

Slow Rainy Day

I was awfully tired so I stayed in bed and had breakfast and studied the grammar there. Did not get dressed till 10. Helen came up to say that they were around with the banners and the winning horse and wanted money to help about the dinner so Helen and I gave 5 francs between us.
I washed out several pieces and had nice hot water for it.
Helen in the meantime moved into the front room. She cares so much about the room she has that I like her to have the best on for it makes her happier.

Lay down and slept after lunch – then went in with my letter to Jeannie Hincks,* telling her about prices re in regard to coming abroad next winter. Helen came in and invited me to go to walk and I got all dressed but it looked so dark that I did not go. I forgot to say that we had a thunderstorm after lunch. Went into Mrs. Oudesluy’s room with my sewing and told them the story of Margaret’s wedding which amused them very much.

After dinner played part of a game of Sequence with Mrs. Oudesluys and then Helen, Mrs. O and I went out and walked to the end of the Lizza and back – her daughter and Miss Flora, Signora’s daughter went too. – Came in at ten and came upstairs and finished letter to Jeannie Hincks.

*This may have been the daughter of her grandfather’s sister, Jeannie Hincks

The Palio

Got up earlier with my bath and was ready to start at 9.20. Miss Kinney, Helen and I went to 12 Via Corrier, bought a programme and then to the house and chapel of Santa Catherina and saw the frescoes and other things, her old room re re. Then we went into the chapel of the Oca and saw the little medals in the walls and then into the room where the contrada* meets and saw the banners they had won in previous races. Then we went to the church of San Domenico and looked at everything mentioned in the guide book. Miss K. got tired and went out and sat under a linden tree. It began to sprinkle on the way home. Dinner at one today.

A letter from F.B.H. She says it costs so much there, 10 lire a day, that she does not advise my going there. She has a room in the Hotel Thermes.

Miss Kinney came over at 2.45 and at 3 we started off for San Domenico** to see the horse blessings. We got chairs and sat there till 5 and then the horses did not come in but only to the door so we felt that it was a fraud.



Then Helen, Miss K and I took a carriage and drove to the Duomo to see all the different contrade come before the archbishop. Then we drove back and went and sat in one place and watched the Palio. The most interesting part of it all to my mind was the crowd - The horses all groomed, the course was draped with the colors.



The costumes were beautiful – the race short – the Istrice or Porcupine***– the horse from our district won.



We waited till most of the crowd had gone, then we walked home. Had a nice supper at 8 o’clock. Then we walked over with Miss K. and said goodbye to her as she leaves tomorrow. Then Helen and I walked down to the contrada room and saw their other banner, one going so far back as 1600. I sat in the park till 10.10 – then came back and wrote up my diary.

*The Contrades of Siena are different districts in which the city is divided into. Each contrade has a very rich history with emblems, banners, colours, official representatives etc. that all trace their lineage to medieval times.
**Church of San Domenico. The blessings are done at local churches before the race.
***one of the emblems for Terziere di Camollia, one of three districts of Siena in ancient times.

Siena Sightseeing

Miss K, Helen and I went over to the Campo and went through the Palazzo Communale. Helen went through Sunday so she would not go. It cost 50 centimes. I have a remembrance of large rooms with half faded frescoes. One room had large tapestries in it and one room had modern frescoes of the dead king, Victor Emmanuel. I liked those very much. Then I went up to the Loggia and looked at the market and at the view which was so hazy you could not distinguish anything distinctly and at the rondels for different public buildings in Siena.

Lay down after lunch and had a good nap – Then finished “Where Love Is” by Wm. J. Locke.* Then I went out and met Helen and the Ouderluys and we went to the Campo. Found the gate closed so a very pleasant soldier showed us how to go around and underneath the seats to our own places. The race was short but the crowd was interesting as usual.

After dinner, Miss K., the O’s, and Helen and I went over and sat in the Lizza** and then Helen and Mrs. O took a walk while I sat chatting with Miss O. Then we decided to have some ice cream (which only costs five cents with the tip) so we went to the café outside the Teatro della Lizza and ordered our creams and an orangeade for Mrs. O. When the doors of the theatre opened, I should think two or three hundred men poured out and sat down at the tables for beer, almost all of them smoking. Only two or three women were among them. Looking up we saw a lot of women on top of the roof of a sort of piazza. We hurried up and finished our cream and paid the waiter and left. Came back and chatted a while with the people in the piazza and them went to bed. I slept very well. A nice letter from Margaret.

*written in 1903
**Teatro della Lizza: 1859-1942

Locked in the Museum of Medieval Pictures

Miss Kinney, Helen and I started out to go to the Museum of Medieval Pictures. We went way past the place and had to be directed back to it, as it was distinguished from other door [ways] by just the band Galleria over the door. It was a most interesting collection for any one who likes that kind of a thing from the paintings of the early centuries to those of the XVth – XVI cen. We were pleased to notice that the infant Jesus in one picture was playing with a rosary – while the Virgin at her [breast} wore a necklace with a coral chain against the evil eye hanging from it. Miss Kinney said she also saw a bracelet on the baby’s arm. I did not stay as long as I would have liked, but I was getting tired and left. We found ourselves locked in when we came to leave as the custodian must have been at lunch, but we rang a bell and he came and released us.



Lay down after lunch. Sewed a good while afterwards. We started out to find an exhibition of cross stitch work, but we couldn’t find it so we went and took our seats and watched the race. There was no flag throwing nor procession. Walked in the Park in the evening. It is beautiful over in the park and there are crowds of people.

Checking out the Sights and Attending Horse Trials

Siena, Italy – Monday, June 29th, 1830-1914

Got up at 4:45 and read and studied for an hour. Then slept until 8 o’clock. Had b’fast about nine. Helen came in and said I might to go in to see the people so I hurried and was ready soon after ten. We went down to Via Parmi and met Mrs. Moore and Mrs. Wilde, the two ladies from the Crocini. Mrs. M. started on the 7:30 train, went to Pisa instead of changing at Empoli and did not get here till 5 P.M. Mrs. Wilde was in the same train and had a good laugh at her.

We met Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter and went with them to two churches, the San Bernardino and San Francesco and their cloisters. It was most interesting. Bought some postals in San Bernardino.

Came back to lunch and found Miss Kinney here. We had lunch together and then Helen and I came up and lay down and had a nap while Miss K. ate down in the parlor and read. Then we (Miss K. Mrs. O, Helen and I) all went to the Duomo and baptistery and then to the Campo where they let us get into our seats though we had left our tickets at home. We have very good seats in the top row where we can watch the race* and all its incidents and the crowd. There was an immense crowd there. It was intensely interesting, just like a kaleidoscope. We saw several horses race. One rider was thrown and his horse ran the course just the same and of course interfered with the others.

After dinner Miss K. went home while the O’s, Helen, and I walked around to the Fort and looked over the wall by moonlight. Then came back and had an ice and then home. Helen washed her waist** and I wrote this diary.

* The ancient annual horserace, the Palio, is on July 2nd, but from four days before the Palio, trials take place in the “Campo” square which is turned into a race track..
**blouse

Quiet Day in Siena

Father’s birthday today.*

I did not eat any breakfast. Mrs. Clements came in to see me. She was very kind, bright and pleasant. Helen went out for a while. I read the Outlook for April 25th.

I had soup, two eggs, and sieved pears for lunch. Afterwards Helen and I had a good nap. I got up after four. It was 5:10 before we went out. We carried my books with us and found a shady seat where we sat and waited for the band concert which was scheduled to begin at 6 but was over half an hour late. I enjoyed seeing the crowds of children prettily dressed and also the older people.

We had to come in, as it was dinnertime. After dinner we sat in the salon talking with Mrs. Clements and her daughter and with Mrs. And Miss. O. Came upstairs about ten and wrote up this diary.

*Richard Bowers Thurston, born June 28, 1819 in Charlestown, Massachusetts.

Siena Ring Train

I decided to have breakfast in bed and studied the Italian grammar as usual. Then I dressed and went out into the Park, wrote to F.B.H. at Le Lune and sent some postals to the nieces, and Baby-John.

Helen lay down after lunch but I did not. I ripped off, mended and put to soak the lace from my gray silk waist.* Afterwards Helen washed it for me. I felt very tired and went to walk with Helen to get some wood alcohol. Then we rode in the funny overhead ring train from one end of the route to the other. Then as I was very tired, I came home and went to bed and had bread and milk for dinner. Helen went to the cinematograph with Miss Hortense Oudesluys. About eleven, I was so sick that I threw up all my supper which made me feel easier and I slept pretty well.

*blouse

Florence to Siena

Did not sleep well, there were so many noises in our alley. Got up at 6:30, wrote a note to F.T. H. and sent her Marion’s letter.

Dressed and finished packing – had breakfast and started in a carriage for the train. Saw Mrs. Moore and Miss Kinney to say goodbye. We got to the station before the train was made up – 55 minutes before it left. Of course we had the window seats. We had a pleasant ride down, to my surprise reached Siena at 11:50. I accidentally saw the name or we would have gone on. As it was, I asked 3 people before I could be convinced.



Rode up to Pension Flora and were given a back room with 2 beds – everything else in the house was taken. Arranged for Miss Kinney to have a room outside and to take her meals here. Had a nice lunch. Then we lay down for two hours. Mrs. Moore’s friend, Miss Nunes, came to see about the ticket. She was very nice and kind and we went with her and exchanged the tickets she bought for us for five others for the Oudesleys, Miss Kinney and ourselves. Then we went to see her room in a pension in a palace. It has a beautiful view.



Then we went to the Church of [Santa Maria di] Provenzano where we stayed for Benediction.
Miss Nunes is a Catholic. Then she brought us up the hill – till we could see our own pension. – Mrs. and Miss Oudesley are here and came out to welcome us when we came. They have a very pleasant room. We had a nice dinner and then we went out for a stroll about the neighborhood. Coming back I wrote notes to Miss Kinney and Mrs. Moore and mailed them. “I spiek English! Goodnight! Goodbye!!”

Packing and Feeding the Fish

I was tired and had b’fast in bed as I always do – studied my Italian – Then washed my hair – As it was drying, Helen sent word that Dr. Giglioli was here, so I put it up as well as I could, put on my wrapper and went up to H’s room. He said he thought Helen was better and would be all right in a month.

I went down and looked over my things and divided those I wanted to leave in my trunk from those I wanted to take. Worked till almost 5 – them went to Munsterman’s, the druggist’s, and met Helen and we went around and did a lot of errands.

I bought gloves and a silver spoon as I had lost my old one. Left new address at Am. Exp. Co. and found 4 letters there from Percy, Alfred, Florence Sanford and Marion. Edith is better – I am so glad.

Carried out two packages of stale bread to feed the fishes in the Boboli Gardens, but it took us so long to do our errands that the gardens were closed. I was determined not to carry the bread home so I dropped one package in the Lungarno under the arches – first looking to see that no one saw me and gave the other to an old woman with 20 centimes and I know she thought I was crazy – got lost and wandered all over everywhere trying to find the Via Tornabuoni.

Bought the Fanciulla and sent it to Duncan for his birthday. Came back tired out. Made Miss Kinney and Helen laugh till they cried over the adventure of the old woman and “il pane vecchio.”

After dinner paid my bill and then Mrs. Hubbell, Mrs. Turner, Miss Kinney and I all went into Helen’s room and had a jolly time.

??? is going to have a baby Christmas.

A Fete Day

Did not feel as tired as I expected so went with Helen and Mrs. Moore to the Duomo to see the service. We could not get very near but it was gorgeous with the archbishop and all his riches. I thought it was the adoration of the archbishop. We hung over the choir railing and I saw them go out. Then we went around and waited to see the time strike a circle on a brass plate in the left transept.* I think it passed above it.

Came back. After lunch had a good sleep for over an hour. Florence Humphrey came and we went out. Did a few errands and when we went to Piazza Victor Emmanuele and saw Helen and Miss Kinney there and we sat down and had ice cream and cafes and Florence fed four children and an old man. I walked almost back with Florence when she said she must go and so she went back to the Duomo. I wanted her to go to the Pension Crocini and look at the rooms for next winter.



Signora Crocini said the Duomo would be illuminated at 9 – the only day in the year it is done and said we could see it here. We waited till 9.30 and then Mrs. Moore, Miss Kinney and I started. We got to Piazza V.E. and the Duomo with red lights and fireworks on it so then we tried to walk there, but we got into an awful jam so we came back, listened to two pieces of music and came back in the cars. Mrs. Moore and Miss Kinney came back about 15 minutes before us.

Went to Mrs. Hubbell’s room and got telling stories, laughing and it was 11.40 before I left and one o’clock before I got to bed.

*Probably the huge mechanical clock decorated by Paolo Uccello

Florence to Pisa and Return

Was up before seven. Helen had breakfast with me in my room. Started at 8:30 for train with field glass, opera glass, parasol, Baedeker, phrase book, coat – and lunch. Helen went with us but left at the entrance when she found she had left her watch under her pillow. Went in, found that Cook’s man had made a mistake and that the train went at 8:45, not at 9:30. We were ten minutes too late – another train went at 12:00. We went to Cook’s but they denied they had made a mistake. We went home and I wrote 4 postals. We took No. 4 train when we went back – got outside seats by the window – a young Italian girl was on the train. I tried to talk with her. Met a young English woman on the train and asked her if she would like to ride up in carriage with us and share experiences. She stayed with us all the afternoon. She was very pleasant. We ate lunch on the train.



Went first to Duomo – then Battisterio*, then Campo Santa and then the Leaning Tower. We saw two babies being christened. There was an old crenulated wall running along aside the Battisterio with a lion at the corner. A tower in one part of the wall. The buildings stood in a great deal of green grass which made a beautiful background. The Campo Santo was most interesting. The frescoes on the wall of Death Triumphant, the Last Judgment and Hell were powerful – crude and most interesting. We looked at the tombs and monuments, then to the Tower. We climbed to the place where the bells were and the English lady went to the top. I am sorry I didn’t. Came down and went into the Battisterio and the guard gave a number of notes that awoke a marvelous echo. He did it several times – it sounded like the chords struck on an organ. Bought some postcards.

Got down in good time for the train – a young soldier was opposite us and I tried to get him to tell me about the line solders at the review but I couldn’t make him understand. It was a beautiful ride home. Got back at 8:40. Had dinner. Gave Maria a franc between us. Helen was moved to a quieter room upstairs.

* The Baptistry of St. John

Shopping and Fiesole Visit

Slept well. Breakfast in bed as usual. I was ready for Signorina Carli when she came and we spent our time in talking. She says I have improved and I know I have.

Then I went to Am. Express and cashed my draft for $110 and got my Kodak prints of the film Pen gave me – and went to a secondhand book store for an Italian dictionary, but they did not have any, so I came back to Via Torna Buoni and bought one - the Tauchnitz*.

After lunch lay down awhile and fell asleep – dressed and went to Fiesole, got there at 4:40. Found Mme. Grazzini going there and her daughter and Mr. Schmidt and a Mr. Hahn, nice fellows, both artists. We had a pretty table with ice cream and cake, very nice. I talked villainous French with Signora Grazzini and we had a jolly time. Did not leave till after seven. On the tram, we discovered that we had left Mrs. Moore’s address book so we telephoned to Florence about it which made us very late to dinner. Mme. Crocini waited on us herself. I like Maria, the older woman who waits on the table, but not the others.

Came down to my room right after dinner. I had letters from Florence, Alfred, Katharine** and Percy today. Also a note from the pension [Flora} at Siena saying they could take us.

Did not sleep well owing to the chocolate cake I ate. Was up at two drinking peppermint tea and studying Italian.

*The name of a very old esteemed German publishing house which specialized in dictionaries. Bibles and Greek and Roman classics.
**Probably Katharine Duncan Morse, Margaret's sister-in-law whom Jennie would have known from her stay in Amherst.

Presbyterian Church, Boboli Gardens, and Church of San Felice

Helen and I had breakfast in her room together – eggs and honey and a good time. Then we got dressed and went to Pres.[byterian] Church and stayed to Communion. Came home and arranged to have Miss Kinney sit at our table. She was glad to come and she is so nice we were glad to have her. Helen lay down and I finished my letter to Margaret.

Then Helen, Miss Kinney and I walked up to the Boboli gardens. We found them closed except the lower part where we found a fete going on in aid of some school. We paid 20 centimes a piece to get in and walked around the beautiful walks between hedges 20 ft. high. We saw the pretty pond full of gold fish. We sat and talked a long time.



On the way we passed a church of San Felice. We looked in and saw they were to have a procession around the church and a Te Deum and religious service at 6:30 so we stopped here on the way back and saw them light the candles on the altars and in the candelabra and saw the children standing in rows down the center each with a candle in its tiny hand. The service went on at the altar and the preparations went in the church but I had to leave to get back to dinner in time. I was very sorry because it is such a pretty sight to have the children march with their lighted candles. Helen was tired but she wouldn’t go home. She is frail but has tremendous will power.

After dinner we went into the Hubbell’s room for a few minutes and then into Miss Kinney’s to see her scarabs – the beads she bought in Egypt.

Italian lesson, Doctors' Visits, and San Lorenzo

I read Margaret's dear letter over before breakfast and then studied the Italian as usual. It seems as if I could never get the pronunciation.

I went in to assure Helen that I was ready when the doctor came – then came back to pick up my room. At eleven I went in with the new sack that Helen had given me to crochet – that was half-finished and waited until he came. He gave her a thorough examination and said there was nothing organically wrong but that she needed building up and rest and gave a tonic re and Sanotogen.*

Helen came to lunch. Afterwards we went to Dr. Giglioli’s** where I met Florence. There were several ahead of her – finally we walked to the Bargello and were amazed to be told that there were only ten minutes before the closing hour – so we went to San Lorenzo and saw the tombs of the Medici. The inlaid arms of the different cities of Tuscany in marble mosaic were wonderfully beautiful.



We stayed in the chapels and church till nearly six and then went down to the Duomo – where Florence caught the car for Le Lune. I walked back and bought some blue cornflowers for Helen and myself.

I wrote a note to the new pension Flora in Siena***wishing to go there next Friday at 6 frs. And posted it before dinner. Mr. Agnew – a young architect from Duluth – came and stayed an hour in Helen’s room chatting. He is very nice. I told him about Dr. Grazzini’s place. I went to my room to write, but came in and I was tired and just read a paper and went to bed.

*Sanotogen was made as a tonic wine or a protein supplement.
**The 1913 Baedecker mentions a Dr. Giglioli in Florence, Via Ferruccio 5 (speaks English);
***Probably located at Passeggio della Lizza 5

Counselling Helen, Going to the Movies and Italian Lesson

I had an egg and honey for breakfast and felt better all day. Had some little trouble about getting my hot water but finally got dressed by ten.

Helen came in, and she looked blue and depressed. I was going to finish a letter I had begun to Percy, but I invited her in to my room – and we talked and talked and talked. She really wants to stay abroad, but she said she was afraid of being a burden and of being of a party and not in it re re which shows really a disturbed state of mind. We talked until lunch. She has decided to see Dr. Giglioli and will not go home until autumn. That much is settled. The doctor is coming tomorrow at eleven.

After lunch we sat in the parlor talking to the two English ladies when Mlle. Bianca Carli came in. I had a lesson in la pronunzia and after that Mrs. Moore took one – Helen was too upset to take a lesson.

We went to the Duomo and walked around but it was too late to see much – so we went into the Edison moving picture show* and saw a thriller and came back in time for dinner.

Then went and made a call on Miss Kinney in her room. She is very nice indeed and is a great friend of Miss Post and of Miss McFadden. Meant to stay half an hour and stayed two.

I found a delightful letter from Margaret on my table. She has sent my dresses.

I went for the print from the film Pen took of me in the steamer and found it was very good so I ordered 6 more. Gave that one to Helen.

*In the city center, in piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the first cinema in Florence -- and perhaps even in Italy -- had been active since 1901: Cinema Edison, opened by Filoteo Alberini. source

Visiting Fiesole, the Benedictine Abbey, and the Church of San Alessandro

A beautiful day. Had b’fast in bed. Helen went on a picnic to see a tree 400 years old with the two English ladies, Mrs. Wilde and Mrs. Moore.

I left the house at 9:50 and walked to the Duomo and took the 10:20 car for Fiesole - Florence got on the same car - and we went way to the end. Then we took a ride around for 45 minutes to see the views and walked up to the stone seat – real - looking at the view until time to go to Dr Grazzini’s. We got there at 12:30 but did not have lunch till almost two. Sgna. Grazzini is very sweet and pretty and the Dr. is very nice, a very pretty daughter of 19 and a son of 21 - then two boarders- two young artists. Mr. Smidl – an American is very jolly – I tried my French on them and we had a nice time. They are very charming people. They showed us all around the house and garden.

Then we went to the monastery [Convent of San Francesco] and a monk showed us the church – the garden and the cells – very small. St. Benedict lived in one of them.


Then we went into the church of San Alessandro* – an old Roman temple. Then we sat on the stone bench a long time and talked and finally came down the hill and took the car – Florence got out at Le Lune and I at the Duomo and walked home. Florence paid for the drive and all the fees – I talked over plans with her and I told her about Alfred, [Alfred wants Jennie to travel more] – I am going to Siena next week with Helen to the Pallis – to be gone two weeks.

After dinner tonight the two English ladies to play Sequence. They caught on very quickly. Went into see Mrs. Hubbell a few minutes. Waited up to ask Herbert Houghton the name of the pension where he stayed in Rome.

I had a nice letter from Alfred. Florence and Tommy have rented their house and have gone to Oregon. Graeff Kennedy** has the whooping cough and the Morse children,*** the measles. Letter from Hazel – Percy is thin and not feeling well. Worries too much. He is taking a vacation. John is all right.

Inscriptions on stone seal at Fiesole. Ai sitor fratelli viaggiatori di tatti I paesi un Inglise. A.D. 1872.


*The Church of Sant'Alessandro, probably founded as early as the third century. It is on the site of an old Etruscan temple which was later replaced by a Roman temple of Bacchus. At the beginning of the sixth century Theodoric the Great is said to have converted the building into a Christian church making it the oldest Christian church in Tuscany.
**Graef Kennedy was married to Edith Kennedy, Jennie’s niece. Also Graef Kennedy Jr. was Edith’s son (b. 1913).
*** Duncan (b. 1909) and Florence (b. 1913) were Margaret’s children and Jennie’s grandchildren.

Sightseeing at Santa Croce and Church of San Miniato

A pleasant clear day. I had breakfast in bed with an egg and a little honey. Studied Italian. I was dressed by 10 and went into Helen's room – decided to go to Santa Croce. Invited the English woman, Mrs. Moore, to go with us and she brought her friend Mrs. Wilde, so it was after eleven before we got there. We separated and went around alone.



Went to Munsterman’s on the way back and bought Florence's medicines. After lunch, laid down an hour and then Helen and I walked down to the Duomo and took No. 13 tram to the church of San Miniato. It is a beautiful old church.

I had my opera glasses and Helen read the descriptions of the frescoes while I looked at them – an ideal way to do sight seeing – Saw the sacristy and talked a little Italian to the monk in charge who was very pleasant. We gave him a franc for the tour. We spent a long time looking at the church and then went into the cemetery which I found very wonderful. We admired many of the monuments which were works of art.


Stopped to admire the front of the church and bought some postals. We had to wait a long time for a car and then it was jammed, but we got a seat. We rode to the Duomo and had to wait again for No. 14 to take us to the house. Got there at 8. Had dinner – Mme. Crocini waited on us as her nephew was out. – She gave me two eggs “from the country.”

Spoke to Miss Kinney. – She said she had seen me in San Jose. Found Helen tired and going to bed. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room and the girls played some pieces on the piano Stayed till nearly ten o’clock.

Visit to Certosa

Breakfast in bed – studied the grammar as usual. – Finished family letter and sent it to Margaret. – Went with Helen to Or San Michele – then to do some errands and home.

Expected Mlle. Bianca Carli to come at 2:30 to give me an Italian lesson but she didn’t come, so came up and read in Helen’s book on Florence for awhile and then we started off for Certosa, the old monastery. Saw a very interesting old monk in a white habit who took us through the chapels – and into the monastery gardens and into one of the cells where the monks lived alone with a little garden near them. We saw the dining room where they eat in silence – a beautiful restful spot, beautiful views.



Bought postal cards – liqueur, honey and a vase with liqueur inside – Helen and I came back to Florence and then hunted around for a green vase to hold the sweet peas I bought this morning, also to get some eggs. Got home just in time for dinner.

After dinner had a pleasant chat with ??? Mr. Houghton. He had been to the Dananzati Palace and was most enthusiastic. Told of his visit to a palace owned by a Mr. Holshover – an artist from Detroit – who has bought this old palace which had been turned into a contadino house and restored it taking out petitions. I was going out with Mrs. Tanner to a cinematograph, forgot it talking to Mr. Houghton – came down to apologize and stayed there talking and laughing until nearly eleven.

Met Mrs. Oudesleys and her daughter on the tram. She says there are very few left at Le Lune. A Miss Kinney from San Jose came today.

Santa Trinita Church and Drugstore

Tired as usual. I am so tired of being tired. Had b’fast in bed, for my b’fast appeared when I rang for hot water. Helen came in about half past nine all dressed to go out, to do some errands and she said she would come back at 10:30 for me which she did and we went to Church of San Trinita and looked at the frescoes and paintings.



Then we went to Munsterman’s* and I left Florence’s bottle to be refilled and bought some essence of peppermint. The man weighed me and said it came to 64.5 kilos - a kilo is 2 1/20 lb. so that I was 141.5 but that does not figure out but 134 2/5 and I know I weigh much more than that. The other clerk said 143.5 the other day. Came home and lay down before lunch. After lunch had a nice little chat with Herbert Houghton and Helen Chase. He is over for three months and his wife and children are at Stamford, Conn.

Then I wrote a long letter to Margaret and enclosed one from Marion about Edith. Also a note to Mlle Bianca Carli to tell her that Helen and I want to begin our Italian lessons.

I was going out to walk but it rained so I did some mending and then basted the hem in the black and white striped dress Florence game me. Helen saw me working on it and offered to hem it, which will be a great help.

After dinner went into the drawing room a little while. They pressed me to play bridge but I escaped. Went into Helen’s room and found Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Tanner there. We had a nice visit with them.

*Probably The English and American Pharmacy, F. Munsterman, in Piazzetta Goldoni.

Quiet Sunday with Church, Zwieback, and Letters

Maid brought the hot water at 8. Breakfast at 8:30. I woke up feeling very tired. Had breakfast in bed. Just managed to dress slowly and to the Presbyterian Ch. I was too tired to enjoy the service. Came right back. Had bouillon, toast and an egg for lunch.

I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.

Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.


We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?

I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.

I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.

Davanzati Palace, San Croce Church

I rang for breakfast at 8 and hot water at 9 or so. Mme. Crocini came in herself and was very pleasant. Studied my Italian and did not get dressed until late.

After lunch Helen took me to meet Florence at the Palace Davanzati. As we entered the elevator, Herbert Houghton stepped out. Said he was traveling with his friends and would stay a week. We were late meeting Florence and she was quite annoyed, but we went into the palace, Florence paying all expenses. Helen wouldn’t go, had been twice before. I think it is one of the most wonderful places I have seen. It is an old Florentine Palace fitted up in the manner in which they used to live in the 13th, 14th, & 15th centuries and all the furniture, tapestries, vases, dishes and ornaments are of those periods. The first floor belonged to the parents, then the second to the oldest son, the third floor to the second and each became simpler and plainer as you went up. I spent over two hours looking with the greatest interest and only left because the time for closing had arrived.

Then Florence took me down and we had ice-cream. She had invited the Bertolinis and the Gragginis to tea tomorrow so we went around and bought cakes re. Then she went back, but I went into the church of San Croce to see the procession of children. There were many in the church. I got a seat at the side but not in front of the altar.



I watched them light up the big chandeliers, holding 3 or 4 dozen candles. 37 of them. The church finally filled and the interesting procession began. A few hundred horsemen and a priest of fairly high rank, 4 very tall candlesticks, some little boys in white with red sashes, some little girls in white with red sashes and white veils and then multitudes of children holding a lighted candle or a spray of Easter lilies or both together with the parents leading out - holding their tiny infants sometimes. It was most interesting. They marched all the way around the church and then returned to the altar in the center of the church where the service went on and then the people began to go out and Helen and I left. We didn’t get home till after 8, could only eat soup and toast and milk, ought not to have eaten at all, as I was very, very tired.

Found letters from Margaret and Alfred. Alfred sent me $110, $50 being gift from Marion. He wants me to travel and will send me $100 more for that purpose. I wrote to them thanking them for his great kindness. Did not finish it. Had dyspepsia badly. Margaret is not at all well. She has been overworking. Had a request for back dues for Pacific Grove Museum*.

*Near Monterey, CA.

Noise, Shopping, Sightseeing in the Rain

There was so much noise on the street that I did not sleep after 4:30. Finally at 6:30 I sat up and wrote a letter to Marion asking about Edith. Got dressed and went up to breakfast with Helen. Afterwards Helen went out and I unpacked my trunk. Lay down for a while after lunch and fell asleep. Finished my letter to Marion. Helen and I went out and did a lot of errands.

Paid Dr. Dunn 80 francs but did not see him, gave my new address at French Lemon & Co., bought the English self–taught book for Elena* and went to the 48 centime store to see what it was like and bought some writing paper. Afterwards bought some better at another shop.

Helen and I went to see the house that Dante was born in.



Then we walked along through the queer narrow streets to the Palazzo Vecchio and I went through the underground part.



It looked so like rain that we hurried along, but it began to rain and we were caught and had to take refuge near the arched Lungarno. The rain slackened after a while and we walked home. I lay down half and hour before dinner. After dinner, Helen came into my room and talked and read while I sewed the blue slipper tops I knit into the soles. Helen made me some malted milk.

It is just pouring this very minute.

*See entry for June 5

Changing Pensions and Inspecting Riot Damage

Had breakfast in bed as usual. Heard the trains running.

Finished The Return of Sherlock Holmes.



Tried on my dress, the black and while dress that Florence gave me and that I am altering. Florence pinned the hem the right length and I basted the place.

Florence spoke to the directore and he said he would send the trunks down at 1.30 so finished packing my trunk and suitcase before going down to lunch. I said goodbye to all the people I knew and wrote an “approbation” in the Le Lune book. Paid my bill and left about 2 P.M. Helen came up about eleven to see if I were coming down. She then decided to come to the Pensione Crocini herself.

Florence came with me and on the way we stopped at Marmies’s and saw the wonderful ceiling. Also the windows the mob broke yesterday, also the street lights everywhere that they had smashed. We stopped and had ice cream and cake - cost 14 cents apiece.

Then went to the Crocini and found my trunk had arrived. Looked at several rooms and picked out the largest. Then Helen arrived, bag and baggage. She brought over some of the things I had left with her. We all went in to see Mrs. Hubbell. Then went to the Montebello for my plant and some things we had left there. Helen left a lot of things she did not want. We brought over flowers, books, magazines, etc. Florence packed my black winter hat in her trunk also my steamer hat, new pair of shoes, rubbers and heavy winter dress. Then I went back to Le Lune and we came to the Crocini. I unpacked lots of things. We had a good dinner. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room a few minutes. Worked over my room till nearly eleven. Ordered a can of hot water. I like the Hubbell family very much.

More Demonstrations and Rioting

Florence Wednesday June 10th, 1914

It rained a great deal today. Not a train was running nor carriage moving so I could not go to the Pensione Crocini where I was going yesterday*. Spent almost all day altering the dress from Florence - she would pin and I would sew. About four I was so sleepy I lay down and had a long nap. Spent part of the evening in the drawing room talking to Mrs. Rolland, to Mrs. Cochran. Miss French lent us Conan Doyle’s Return of Sherlock Holmes and I read a lot of the stories before and I lent to all.

All this day there was rioting in Florence, window smashing and light breaking., stone throwing. No trains nor trams running. No mail delivery. We heard all sorts of rumors that Marmie’s had had his place injured $20,000, but it was not so. The windows were broken but no lace stolen. We heard 41 officers were killed and a lot of people but that turned out to be grossly exaggerated. Soldiers were injured but none killed.

*Part of socialist demonstrations and riots in June 1914, prompted partly by resistance to conscription. See June 9th footnote.

Strike and Rain

Rained all night. I slept pretty well but woke up with a feeling of distress. Went in to see Florence and sat with her while she ate her breakfast. Then came back and had mine and ate some stewed cherries. Ate macaroni and bread and milk for lunch and bread and milk for supper. Had some distress all day from the caramels and cake I ate yesterday. A foolish thing to do.

The directore sent up word to know if I was going and F. and I went down to see him. He said there was a strike against the government and no trains were running and you could not hire any carriage and the horse belonging to the house was sick so he could not send me down.* As it was raining and I felt punk I did not care.

Tried on the black and white dress that Florence gave me and she pinned the lace on for a collar and I sewed it on and began to crochet a little finishing edge on the strips that go down the front. She also pinned the back seam so as to take away the fullness and it looks much better. I worked on it all the afternoon while Florence put new corners into the contadino veil.

I did not go down to dinner. Had bread and milk in F’s room.

I read Uncle Hugh’s fourth installment aloud while she was fixing her ears. Then we played a game of Sequence and she beat. Played till after eleven. Then I brought her alcohol lamp into my room and heated some hot water to drink and some for a hot water bottle. Had a nice note from Uncle Hugh and his fourth installment of his story and I find it most interesting.

Had a letter from Percy enclosing $40 till Dec. 1. Also telling me about the furniture and offering to store it in his garage and also that he was not feeling well for which I am most sorry. A nice letter from Hazel telling about the new house and the furniture. She sent it to Margaret first.

*During this week there was a lot of social unrest in Italy as radicals of all kinds were extremely vocal, resisting taxation, demanding wage increases, and opposing militarism. On June 7, 1914, popular uprisings ("Red Week") began in the Marches and Romagna, with rebellious landless laborers confronting strike breakers hired by local landowners.

Low Spirits

After I fell asleep, I slept pretty well. I was very tired when I woke up and I suppose I should have stayed in bed, but I got up and dressed, got talking with Florence about P.W., money - income re.re. Looked over my things and packed my trunk. Took me all the afternoon and I felt tired. I did not pack at all well. I mean to get as few things as possible.

Florence went down town and bought a very pretty little tea kettle.

They had a big dinner here for a club of 45 men. The table looked very pretty.

After dinner the Oudersluys came in and showed us some things they had bought and postals. Told us about Holland. I would like to go there. Then I played a game of Sequence with Florence. Beat her.

I feel millions of years old, tired and half sick and not very happy. My eyes are bothering me too and I supposed I ought not to use them. I was too old to come to Europe.

Military Review at the Caserne

Rained in the night. The Italians’ Fourth of July. I woke up at 6:10 and dressed and was ready before seven, went into F’s [Florence's] room and found her in bed. She was afraid to go after the rain. Went out, found Elina who said the rain was to be at 9 a.m. I ordered b’fast. F.B.H. had hers in my room in my bed. I got ready taking my medicine bag with me. And went to get Helen, found her dressed, left my bag there to take to the new place on Tuesday. She had paid and we started for the Caserne to see the Review which we heard was to be at 10.

Streets were filled with people with highly colored dresses and we saw companies of soldiers as we walked on in the Park finding all the fences along the race course turned into impromptu grandstands with benches or chairs on them to rent, but all were taken. Finally we walked up to the real grandstand where admittance was 2 L. I was going to pay when an Italian gentleman took us through on his ticket. I bought two Santa Croce pins for Helen and me. Then as the grandstand was filled, we found places by the procession front where we could look over the heads of those in front.

We saw a big green field filled with companies of infantry and cavalry, so many soldiers or officers on horseback in gorgeous uniforms, the Commanding General and his aides. He rode up and down five times and appeared to be inspecting the different companies and then something went on in the center that we couldn’t see but all the people who were standing went across the fields and stood near the general and his staff. After half an hour or so, we went over too and got a place in the second roof where we could see well. The General and his aides rode back and wheeled around, not far from us, 4 officers, one with gorgeous epaulets and 3 lieutenants - 2 I should judge-stood by the General who was on horseback and one private stood out about 10 ft.- and faced all the infantry review.

Then all the regiments passed in review, saluting and being saluted by the general infantry, Red Cross, bicycle, motor cycle cavalry. It was a brilliant spectacle.

We turned up the Park to take a tram and passed a field where there were lots of tents with the Red Cross on them. We went all through them and were intensely interested in them. Saw the men working. Just missed a car and had to wait 20 minutes. Just caught a Fiesole car. Terribly crowded.

Got back at 1:50 and had lunch. Came up and told F. all about it. Then went in to lie down. I slept an hour. We were to go to Fiesole but I was too tired to do it. So sat in her room and watched her pack the trunk she is to put in storage. She showed me lots of her pretty things. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter Hortense* came in and sat a long time.

Spent the evening talking together and watching the illumination of the Tower of Vecchio Palace. Tried to write to the family, but I was too sleepy.

*Hortense Oudesluys was born Dec. 1893 and died on Oct. 31, 1992 according to the US census. In the 1916 “Biological Bulletin” put out by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, MA., she is mentioned as a teacher at Western High School, Baltimore, Maryland.

Cinemattograph

It did rain about 9 so I gave up my trip to Florence where I was going to spend the day with Helen. I had breakfast in bed. However it cleared off at 10 so I made up my mind to go. Dressed and got to the Montebello to find Helen. Waited an hour reading the papers. Helen came in at one and we decided to have lunch there instead of going to that queer place under a palace.

Then we went to the Pension Crocini* and I engaged a room at 6 frs., 2 frs. extra for light, beginning next Tuesday. Then we went to a store to look at some dresses and didn’t like them and we wandered around the shops, finally ending at the Cinemattograph. It was called “La Tormenota” .We had to wait outside till the end of the act and then went in and saw the whole thing which took two hours. People leaving and entering every 10 minutes or so. It was a highly dramatic, sensational and emotional melo-drama, but I enjoyed it, the novelty of the situation immensely. Helen walked down to the car with me.

Got home before the first bell rang for dinner.

Played Sequence with Florence after dinner and beat her.

Had a very lengthy letter from Percy about that wretched old furniture situation enclosing exchange of letters between Florence, Hazel, and Percy. I am so sorry that there is this tensity of feeling between them.

*In the 1928 Baedeker, pg. 169, Pensione Crocini is at Lung Arno Guicciardini 9. As well it is listed in Artistic Guide to Florence (1910) on the Lung Arno Guicciardini.

Hat shopping, dentist, & Montebello

Did not get to bed till midnight, but slept better. Had breakfast in bed, also half a cup of cherry and apple that Florence cooked in her room. Studied Italian till 10. Dressed -finished my black dress - I always make my bed and pick up my room to help Elena. Got ready to go down town with Florence.

We did not start till 2:30 and missed a car, walked to San Gervasio. Went to bank and Florence lent me $20. Went to milliner to see the Pomeranian Pug. It looked very well indeed. Added a bunch of flowers on the side and paid $2.50. She turned the hat inside out and varnished it.

Went to Dr. Dunn's but I could not see him. It was too late.

Then went over to the Montebello and found Helen in. She looks badly and said she had a pain in her side. She had some delicious coffee and cream and bread and butter and cake. Then went down and got my hat, also cups for a maid, and a pair of gloves. Helen walked to car with me. Walked up from San Gervasio.

In the evening played Sequence and beat Florence. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter came in for a while. They showed us some of the pretty things they had bought. Florence is feeling better. Dr. G. wants her to go to San Pellegrino to the baths there.

Postal from Margaret. Our English paper has come!!!

Fiesole and San Girolamo Monastery

I did not sleep at all well last night. Finally at 5:45 I sat up and wrote a long letter to Uncle Hugh about ourselves and about his 3rd manuscript which we received about two weeks or more ago.

Finished my letter about 8 and took it into Florence's B.R. to read and then came back and slept for 3 good hours. Got up just in time for lunch. After lunch studied Italian awhile and got ready to go to Fiesole.

We got there at 4 and went into the straw shop to look around and then we went to the monastery of San Girolamo where the Blue Nuns live. I was just fascinated with the place. It was so beautiful and the acting Mother Superior, Mother Martha, said we could go all over the place and have tea and go into the chapel and see St. Florina, the Martyr who died when he was twelve years old.

We went all over and I was delighted with it. We had tea with thin slices of bread and butter and Sister G. took us over the house to see the cells they made into rooms for boarders.* We said we would stay to Benediction, the evening service at 6 o’clock.

While we were waiting who should come along but Helen with a Mrs. Fisher, a boarder at the Montebello who was very pleasant. They soon went in and we went into the service which was beautiful with the sweet voices of the sisters singing the chants.

We saw the waxen form of the martyr and after the service walked down a steep road to San Domenico** where we took the car for Le Lune. We had dinner out of doors. After dinner we had a game of Sequence and I beat.

It was a beautiful day. Florence paid all the expenses of the trip and gave me four beautiful postcards of the convent and a pamphlet about it with views of the walks re.

*The Blue Nuns until the 1980's ran a guest house at the monastery.
**The little hamlet of San Domenico di Fiesole (148m/486ft above sea level) is only about half a mile southwest of Fiesole and right on the boundary of Florence, with a panoramic view of the city. Its San Domenico Church (1406-1435; rebuilt in the 17th century) has a richly furnished interior, with a beautiful altarpiece by Fra Angelico (c. 1430) in the first chapel on the left.

Looking for new lodgings again

Went to bed last night about one, so slept over and did not wake up till 8:30. F. B. H. came in to my room, asked me if I would like to walk over to the Pestellini to see the manager and see when she could get in, so I hurried and had b’fast and dressed. Helen came in just as I was ready. She brought up her Italian grammar for me. Then we three walked over to the Pestellini. Said she would let F. come just as soon as she had a vacant room. I thought the place was a beautiful one. Helen did not go in, but went back to town. She said they sent the hat up and she took it. We walked back to the Le Lune.

After lunch F.B.H. lay down and I talked to her and finished knitting my blue slippers – one of those I did three times. And I had to rip out lots of places. At 3:45 we took our work and went out and sat under the trees. The Baltimore lady and her daughter sat with us. Mrs. Oudesluys read aloud from The Beauty of the Sting while the rest of us sewed. I put the ribbon on the bottom of my black silk dress and hemmed it where it had been let down. It took me four hours to do.

Miss Hannay lent us her London paper telling about the terrible disaster. It was so needless.

After dinner we came upstairs and Mrs. O. read the paper while I sewed and Florence ripped a flower out that she had made in the contadino veil she wants to send Mollie.

Yesterday I met one of the Princess Irene’s passengers, the one from Denver, Colorado who always wore a blue veil. They have been to Greece and Constantinople. She said they had had a delightful trip. They had met Miss Witt and Miss Peet a number of times since they had left the ship. A nice letter from Margaret. Read Uncle Hugh’s* manuscript over the second time. It is the third section.

*Hugh Young (b. 1830) was married to Anne Carolyn Thurston who was the younger sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Bowers Thurston. He was writing his autobiography.

Shopping in Florence

No letter from any of the children.

Had b’fast in bed and studied my Italian while doing so, washed my stockings and gloves re - Florence came in and pinned my black silk dress where it ought to be to hang straight. The English Type - the mother with a cap and her daughter, left this morning, also the German family - the woman who was so horrid to her little girl.

Florence and I went downtown. I carried down my plant and a lot of medicines to the Montebello to make it easier when I come to move. Then Helen and I went back to Munsterberg, the druggist, where we met Florence. She went back with me to the milliner’s but she did not have my feathers ready. She thinks she can fix my old one by turning the inside out which is not faded and facing the faded part with blue silk.

Then we went to the new market and bought some filel lace to go with the dress F. has given me and some Cluny* edging and insertions because it was cheap. Florence brought a trunk for $16.60 - a steamer trunk.

We did not go to look at the rooms. Helen seemed to be possessed to have me go to the Jennings Riccioli** instead of to the one where the Hubbells are. Florence was tired and had to go back while I went around to try to find a book from which Elena could learn English.

Then Helen saw a hat in the window and liked it. It was $4. Helen got her to take 3.60 and paid for it, and then suddenly remembered that other hat that she had ordered from the little milliner and wanted her money back which the other would not give. Helen got mad and threatened her with the American consul, but the girl would not give in. Finally she went off without the money or the hat either. I said I thought she would have trouble but she would not listen.

I spoke French for they could not understand each other, caught the 6:40 tram for the house. After dinner taught the Oudesluys to play Sequence. Miss Pete’s people are not going to leave so F. can’t go.

*Cluny lace-lace made from coarse thread used to edge household linens
**Jennings-Riccioli, nº 2 de Lungarno delle Grazie, was the model for the fictional Pensione Bertolini in Forester’s “A Room with a View.”

Trip to Fiesole (2)

Woke up at 7:45, but felt pretty tired so did not get right up. However, soon called for hot water, took my bath, and had breakfast with half a cup of F.’s stewed cherries. Before I was dressed, my Italian teacher came and I spent two hours working as hard as I could. Paid her 5 fr. for two double lessons and carfare.

After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.


First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.

Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.

Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.

They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.

The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.

After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.

* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.

Sunday service at the American Church

Was dressed before I rang for breakfast.

Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.

Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.

Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.

Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.

Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.

*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.