The Palio

Got up earlier with my bath and was ready to start at 9.20. Miss Kinney, Helen and I went to 12 Via Corrier, bought a programme and then to the house and chapel of Santa Catherina and saw the frescoes and other things, her old room re re. Then we went into the chapel of the Oca and saw the little medals in the walls and then into the room where the contrada* meets and saw the banners they had won in previous races. Then we went to the church of San Domenico and looked at everything mentioned in the guide book. Miss K. got tired and went out and sat under a linden tree. It began to sprinkle on the way home. Dinner at one today.

A letter from F.B.H. She says it costs so much there, 10 lire a day, that she does not advise my going there. She has a room in the Hotel Thermes.

Miss Kinney came over at 2.45 and at 3 we started off for San Domenico** to see the horse blessings. We got chairs and sat there till 5 and then the horses did not come in but only to the door so we felt that it was a fraud.



Then Helen, Miss K and I took a carriage and drove to the Duomo to see all the different contrade come before the archbishop. Then we drove back and went and sat in one place and watched the Palio. The most interesting part of it all to my mind was the crowd - The horses all groomed, the course was draped with the colors.



The costumes were beautiful – the race short – the Istrice or Porcupine***– the horse from our district won.



We waited till most of the crowd had gone, then we walked home. Had a nice supper at 8 o’clock. Then we walked over with Miss K. and said goodbye to her as she leaves tomorrow. Then Helen and I walked down to the contrada room and saw their other banner, one going so far back as 1600. I sat in the park till 10.10 – then came back and wrote up my diary.

*The Contrades of Siena are different districts in which the city is divided into. Each contrade has a very rich history with emblems, banners, colours, official representatives etc. that all trace their lineage to medieval times.
**Church of San Domenico. The blessings are done at local churches before the race.
***one of the emblems for Terziere di Camollia, one of three districts of Siena in ancient times.

Checking out the Sights and Attending Horse Trials

Siena, Italy – Monday, June 29th, 1830-1914

Got up at 4:45 and read and studied for an hour. Then slept until 8 o’clock. Had b’fast about nine. Helen came in and said I might to go in to see the people so I hurried and was ready soon after ten. We went down to Via Parmi and met Mrs. Moore and Mrs. Wilde, the two ladies from the Crocini. Mrs. M. started on the 7:30 train, went to Pisa instead of changing at Empoli and did not get here till 5 P.M. Mrs. Wilde was in the same train and had a good laugh at her.

We met Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter and went with them to two churches, the San Bernardino and San Francesco and their cloisters. It was most interesting. Bought some postals in San Bernardino.

Came back to lunch and found Miss Kinney here. We had lunch together and then Helen and I came up and lay down and had a nap while Miss K. ate down in the parlor and read. Then we (Miss K. Mrs. O, Helen and I) all went to the Duomo and baptistery and then to the Campo where they let us get into our seats though we had left our tickets at home. We have very good seats in the top row where we can watch the race* and all its incidents and the crowd. There was an immense crowd there. It was intensely interesting, just like a kaleidoscope. We saw several horses race. One rider was thrown and his horse ran the course just the same and of course interfered with the others.

After dinner Miss K. went home while the O’s, Helen, and I walked around to the Fort and looked over the wall by moonlight. Then came back and had an ice and then home. Helen washed her waist** and I wrote this diary.

* The ancient annual horserace, the Palio, is on July 2nd, but from four days before the Palio, trials take place in the “Campo” square which is turned into a race track..
**blouse