Sightseeing at Santa Croce and Church of San Miniato

A pleasant clear day. I had breakfast in bed with an egg and a little honey. Studied Italian. I was dressed by 10 and went into Helen's room – decided to go to Santa Croce. Invited the English woman, Mrs. Moore, to go with us and she brought her friend Mrs. Wilde, so it was after eleven before we got there. We separated and went around alone.



Went to Munsterman’s on the way back and bought Florence's medicines. After lunch, laid down an hour and then Helen and I walked down to the Duomo and took No. 13 tram to the church of San Miniato. It is a beautiful old church.

I had my opera glasses and Helen read the descriptions of the frescoes while I looked at them – an ideal way to do sight seeing – Saw the sacristy and talked a little Italian to the monk in charge who was very pleasant. We gave him a franc for the tour. We spent a long time looking at the church and then went into the cemetery which I found very wonderful. We admired many of the monuments which were works of art.


Stopped to admire the front of the church and bought some postals. We had to wait a long time for a car and then it was jammed, but we got a seat. We rode to the Duomo and had to wait again for No. 14 to take us to the house. Got there at 8. Had dinner – Mme. Crocini waited on us as her nephew was out. – She gave me two eggs “from the country.”

Spoke to Miss Kinney. – She said she had seen me in San Jose. Found Helen tired and going to bed. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room and the girls played some pieces on the piano Stayed till nearly ten o’clock.

Visit to Certosa

Breakfast in bed – studied the grammar as usual. – Finished family letter and sent it to Margaret. – Went with Helen to Or San Michele – then to do some errands and home.

Expected Mlle. Bianca Carli to come at 2:30 to give me an Italian lesson but she didn’t come, so came up and read in Helen’s book on Florence for awhile and then we started off for Certosa, the old monastery. Saw a very interesting old monk in a white habit who took us through the chapels – and into the monastery gardens and into one of the cells where the monks lived alone with a little garden near them. We saw the dining room where they eat in silence – a beautiful restful spot, beautiful views.



Bought postal cards – liqueur, honey and a vase with liqueur inside – Helen and I came back to Florence and then hunted around for a green vase to hold the sweet peas I bought this morning, also to get some eggs. Got home just in time for dinner.

After dinner had a pleasant chat with ??? Mr. Houghton. He had been to the Dananzati Palace and was most enthusiastic. Told of his visit to a palace owned by a Mr. Holshover – an artist from Detroit – who has bought this old palace which had been turned into a contadino house and restored it taking out petitions. I was going out with Mrs. Tanner to a cinematograph, forgot it talking to Mr. Houghton – came down to apologize and stayed there talking and laughing until nearly eleven.

Met Mrs. Oudesleys and her daughter on the tram. She says there are very few left at Le Lune. A Miss Kinney from San Jose came today.

Santa Trinita Church and Drugstore

Tired as usual. I am so tired of being tired. Had b’fast in bed, for my b’fast appeared when I rang for hot water. Helen came in about half past nine all dressed to go out, to do some errands and she said she would come back at 10:30 for me which she did and we went to Church of San Trinita and looked at the frescoes and paintings.



Then we went to Munsterman’s* and I left Florence’s bottle to be refilled and bought some essence of peppermint. The man weighed me and said it came to 64.5 kilos - a kilo is 2 1/20 lb. so that I was 141.5 but that does not figure out but 134 2/5 and I know I weigh much more than that. The other clerk said 143.5 the other day. Came home and lay down before lunch. After lunch had a nice little chat with Herbert Houghton and Helen Chase. He is over for three months and his wife and children are at Stamford, Conn.

Then I wrote a long letter to Margaret and enclosed one from Marion about Edith. Also a note to Mlle Bianca Carli to tell her that Helen and I want to begin our Italian lessons.

I was going out to walk but it rained so I did some mending and then basted the hem in the black and white striped dress Florence game me. Helen saw me working on it and offered to hem it, which will be a great help.

After dinner went into the drawing room a little while. They pressed me to play bridge but I escaped. Went into Helen’s room and found Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Tanner there. We had a nice visit with them.

*Probably The English and American Pharmacy, F. Munsterman, in Piazzetta Goldoni.

Quiet Sunday with Church, Zwieback, and Letters

Maid brought the hot water at 8. Breakfast at 8:30. I woke up feeling very tired. Had breakfast in bed. Just managed to dress slowly and to the Presbyterian Ch. I was too tired to enjoy the service. Came right back. Had bouillon, toast and an egg for lunch.

I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.

Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.


We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?

I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.

I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.

Davanzati Palace, San Croce Church

I rang for breakfast at 8 and hot water at 9 or so. Mme. Crocini came in herself and was very pleasant. Studied my Italian and did not get dressed until late.

After lunch Helen took me to meet Florence at the Palace Davanzati. As we entered the elevator, Herbert Houghton stepped out. Said he was traveling with his friends and would stay a week. We were late meeting Florence and she was quite annoyed, but we went into the palace, Florence paying all expenses. Helen wouldn’t go, had been twice before. I think it is one of the most wonderful places I have seen. It is an old Florentine Palace fitted up in the manner in which they used to live in the 13th, 14th, & 15th centuries and all the furniture, tapestries, vases, dishes and ornaments are of those periods. The first floor belonged to the parents, then the second to the oldest son, the third floor to the second and each became simpler and plainer as you went up. I spent over two hours looking with the greatest interest and only left because the time for closing had arrived.

Then Florence took me down and we had ice-cream. She had invited the Bertolinis and the Gragginis to tea tomorrow so we went around and bought cakes re. Then she went back, but I went into the church of San Croce to see the procession of children. There were many in the church. I got a seat at the side but not in front of the altar.



I watched them light up the big chandeliers, holding 3 or 4 dozen candles. 37 of them. The church finally filled and the interesting procession began. A few hundred horsemen and a priest of fairly high rank, 4 very tall candlesticks, some little boys in white with red sashes, some little girls in white with red sashes and white veils and then multitudes of children holding a lighted candle or a spray of Easter lilies or both together with the parents leading out - holding their tiny infants sometimes. It was most interesting. They marched all the way around the church and then returned to the altar in the center of the church where the service went on and then the people began to go out and Helen and I left. We didn’t get home till after 8, could only eat soup and toast and milk, ought not to have eaten at all, as I was very, very tired.

Found letters from Margaret and Alfred. Alfred sent me $110, $50 being gift from Marion. He wants me to travel and will send me $100 more for that purpose. I wrote to them thanking them for his great kindness. Did not finish it. Had dyspepsia badly. Margaret is not at all well. She has been overworking. Had a request for back dues for Pacific Grove Museum*.

*Near Monterey, CA.

Noise, Shopping, Sightseeing in the Rain

There was so much noise on the street that I did not sleep after 4:30. Finally at 6:30 I sat up and wrote a letter to Marion asking about Edith. Got dressed and went up to breakfast with Helen. Afterwards Helen went out and I unpacked my trunk. Lay down for a while after lunch and fell asleep. Finished my letter to Marion. Helen and I went out and did a lot of errands.

Paid Dr. Dunn 80 francs but did not see him, gave my new address at French Lemon & Co., bought the English self–taught book for Elena* and went to the 48 centime store to see what it was like and bought some writing paper. Afterwards bought some better at another shop.

Helen and I went to see the house that Dante was born in.



Then we walked along through the queer narrow streets to the Palazzo Vecchio and I went through the underground part.



It looked so like rain that we hurried along, but it began to rain and we were caught and had to take refuge near the arched Lungarno. The rain slackened after a while and we walked home. I lay down half and hour before dinner. After dinner, Helen came into my room and talked and read while I sewed the blue slipper tops I knit into the soles. Helen made me some malted milk.

It is just pouring this very minute.

*See entry for June 5

Changing Pensions and Inspecting Riot Damage

Had breakfast in bed as usual. Heard the trains running.

Finished The Return of Sherlock Holmes.



Tried on my dress, the black and while dress that Florence gave me and that I am altering. Florence pinned the hem the right length and I basted the place.

Florence spoke to the directore and he said he would send the trunks down at 1.30 so finished packing my trunk and suitcase before going down to lunch. I said goodbye to all the people I knew and wrote an “approbation” in the Le Lune book. Paid my bill and left about 2 P.M. Helen came up about eleven to see if I were coming down. She then decided to come to the Pensione Crocini herself.

Florence came with me and on the way we stopped at Marmies’s and saw the wonderful ceiling. Also the windows the mob broke yesterday, also the street lights everywhere that they had smashed. We stopped and had ice cream and cake - cost 14 cents apiece.

Then went to the Crocini and found my trunk had arrived. Looked at several rooms and picked out the largest. Then Helen arrived, bag and baggage. She brought over some of the things I had left with her. We all went in to see Mrs. Hubbell. Then went to the Montebello for my plant and some things we had left there. Helen left a lot of things she did not want. We brought over flowers, books, magazines, etc. Florence packed my black winter hat in her trunk also my steamer hat, new pair of shoes, rubbers and heavy winter dress. Then I went back to Le Lune and we came to the Crocini. I unpacked lots of things. We had a good dinner. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room a few minutes. Worked over my room till nearly eleven. Ordered a can of hot water. I like the Hubbell family very much.

More Demonstrations and Rioting

Florence Wednesday June 10th, 1914

It rained a great deal today. Not a train was running nor carriage moving so I could not go to the Pensione Crocini where I was going yesterday*. Spent almost all day altering the dress from Florence - she would pin and I would sew. About four I was so sleepy I lay down and had a long nap. Spent part of the evening in the drawing room talking to Mrs. Rolland, to Mrs. Cochran. Miss French lent us Conan Doyle’s Return of Sherlock Holmes and I read a lot of the stories before and I lent to all.

All this day there was rioting in Florence, window smashing and light breaking., stone throwing. No trains nor trams running. No mail delivery. We heard all sorts of rumors that Marmie’s had had his place injured $20,000, but it was not so. The windows were broken but no lace stolen. We heard 41 officers were killed and a lot of people but that turned out to be grossly exaggerated. Soldiers were injured but none killed.

*Part of socialist demonstrations and riots in June 1914, prompted partly by resistance to conscription. See June 9th footnote.

Strike and Rain

Rained all night. I slept pretty well but woke up with a feeling of distress. Went in to see Florence and sat with her while she ate her breakfast. Then came back and had mine and ate some stewed cherries. Ate macaroni and bread and milk for lunch and bread and milk for supper. Had some distress all day from the caramels and cake I ate yesterday. A foolish thing to do.

The directore sent up word to know if I was going and F. and I went down to see him. He said there was a strike against the government and no trains were running and you could not hire any carriage and the horse belonging to the house was sick so he could not send me down.* As it was raining and I felt punk I did not care.

Tried on the black and white dress that Florence gave me and she pinned the lace on for a collar and I sewed it on and began to crochet a little finishing edge on the strips that go down the front. She also pinned the back seam so as to take away the fullness and it looks much better. I worked on it all the afternoon while Florence put new corners into the contadino veil.

I did not go down to dinner. Had bread and milk in F’s room.

I read Uncle Hugh’s fourth installment aloud while she was fixing her ears. Then we played a game of Sequence and she beat. Played till after eleven. Then I brought her alcohol lamp into my room and heated some hot water to drink and some for a hot water bottle. Had a nice note from Uncle Hugh and his fourth installment of his story and I find it most interesting.

Had a letter from Percy enclosing $40 till Dec. 1. Also telling me about the furniture and offering to store it in his garage and also that he was not feeling well for which I am most sorry. A nice letter from Hazel telling about the new house and the furniture. She sent it to Margaret first.

*During this week there was a lot of social unrest in Italy as radicals of all kinds were extremely vocal, resisting taxation, demanding wage increases, and opposing militarism. On June 7, 1914, popular uprisings ("Red Week") began in the Marches and Romagna, with rebellious landless laborers confronting strike breakers hired by local landowners.

Low Spirits

After I fell asleep, I slept pretty well. I was very tired when I woke up and I suppose I should have stayed in bed, but I got up and dressed, got talking with Florence about P.W., money - income re.re. Looked over my things and packed my trunk. Took me all the afternoon and I felt tired. I did not pack at all well. I mean to get as few things as possible.

Florence went down town and bought a very pretty little tea kettle.

They had a big dinner here for a club of 45 men. The table looked very pretty.

After dinner the Oudersluys came in and showed us some things they had bought and postals. Told us about Holland. I would like to go there. Then I played a game of Sequence with Florence. Beat her.

I feel millions of years old, tired and half sick and not very happy. My eyes are bothering me too and I supposed I ought not to use them. I was too old to come to Europe.

Military Review at the Caserne

Rained in the night. The Italians’ Fourth of July. I woke up at 6:10 and dressed and was ready before seven, went into F’s [Florence's] room and found her in bed. She was afraid to go after the rain. Went out, found Elina who said the rain was to be at 9 a.m. I ordered b’fast. F.B.H. had hers in my room in my bed. I got ready taking my medicine bag with me. And went to get Helen, found her dressed, left my bag there to take to the new place on Tuesday. She had paid and we started for the Caserne to see the Review which we heard was to be at 10.

Streets were filled with people with highly colored dresses and we saw companies of soldiers as we walked on in the Park finding all the fences along the race course turned into impromptu grandstands with benches or chairs on them to rent, but all were taken. Finally we walked up to the real grandstand where admittance was 2 L. I was going to pay when an Italian gentleman took us through on his ticket. I bought two Santa Croce pins for Helen and me. Then as the grandstand was filled, we found places by the procession front where we could look over the heads of those in front.

We saw a big green field filled with companies of infantry and cavalry, so many soldiers or officers on horseback in gorgeous uniforms, the Commanding General and his aides. He rode up and down five times and appeared to be inspecting the different companies and then something went on in the center that we couldn’t see but all the people who were standing went across the fields and stood near the general and his staff. After half an hour or so, we went over too and got a place in the second roof where we could see well. The General and his aides rode back and wheeled around, not far from us, 4 officers, one with gorgeous epaulets and 3 lieutenants - 2 I should judge-stood by the General who was on horseback and one private stood out about 10 ft.- and faced all the infantry review.

Then all the regiments passed in review, saluting and being saluted by the general infantry, Red Cross, bicycle, motor cycle cavalry. It was a brilliant spectacle.

We turned up the Park to take a tram and passed a field where there were lots of tents with the Red Cross on them. We went all through them and were intensely interested in them. Saw the men working. Just missed a car and had to wait 20 minutes. Just caught a Fiesole car. Terribly crowded.

Got back at 1:50 and had lunch. Came up and told F. all about it. Then went in to lie down. I slept an hour. We were to go to Fiesole but I was too tired to do it. So sat in her room and watched her pack the trunk she is to put in storage. She showed me lots of her pretty things. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter Hortense* came in and sat a long time.

Spent the evening talking together and watching the illumination of the Tower of Vecchio Palace. Tried to write to the family, but I was too sleepy.

*Hortense Oudesluys was born Dec. 1893 and died on Oct. 31, 1992 according to the US census. In the 1916 “Biological Bulletin” put out by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, MA., she is mentioned as a teacher at Western High School, Baltimore, Maryland.

Cinemattograph

It did rain about 9 so I gave up my trip to Florence where I was going to spend the day with Helen. I had breakfast in bed. However it cleared off at 10 so I made up my mind to go. Dressed and got to the Montebello to find Helen. Waited an hour reading the papers. Helen came in at one and we decided to have lunch there instead of going to that queer place under a palace.

Then we went to the Pension Crocini* and I engaged a room at 6 frs., 2 frs. extra for light, beginning next Tuesday. Then we went to a store to look at some dresses and didn’t like them and we wandered around the shops, finally ending at the Cinemattograph. It was called “La Tormenota” .We had to wait outside till the end of the act and then went in and saw the whole thing which took two hours. People leaving and entering every 10 minutes or so. It was a highly dramatic, sensational and emotional melo-drama, but I enjoyed it, the novelty of the situation immensely. Helen walked down to the car with me.

Got home before the first bell rang for dinner.

Played Sequence with Florence after dinner and beat her.

Had a very lengthy letter from Percy about that wretched old furniture situation enclosing exchange of letters between Florence, Hazel, and Percy. I am so sorry that there is this tensity of feeling between them.

*In the 1928 Baedeker, pg. 169, Pensione Crocini is at Lung Arno Guicciardini 9. As well it is listed in Artistic Guide to Florence (1910) on the Lung Arno Guicciardini.

Hat shopping, dentist, & Montebello

Did not get to bed till midnight, but slept better. Had breakfast in bed, also half a cup of cherry and apple that Florence cooked in her room. Studied Italian till 10. Dressed -finished my black dress - I always make my bed and pick up my room to help Elena. Got ready to go down town with Florence.

We did not start till 2:30 and missed a car, walked to San Gervasio. Went to bank and Florence lent me $20. Went to milliner to see the Pomeranian Pug. It looked very well indeed. Added a bunch of flowers on the side and paid $2.50. She turned the hat inside out and varnished it.

Went to Dr. Dunn's but I could not see him. It was too late.

Then went over to the Montebello and found Helen in. She looks badly and said she had a pain in her side. She had some delicious coffee and cream and bread and butter and cake. Then went down and got my hat, also cups for a maid, and a pair of gloves. Helen walked to car with me. Walked up from San Gervasio.

In the evening played Sequence and beat Florence. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter came in for a while. They showed us some of the pretty things they had bought. Florence is feeling better. Dr. G. wants her to go to San Pellegrino to the baths there.

Postal from Margaret. Our English paper has come!!!

Fiesole and San Girolamo Monastery

I did not sleep at all well last night. Finally at 5:45 I sat up and wrote a long letter to Uncle Hugh about ourselves and about his 3rd manuscript which we received about two weeks or more ago.

Finished my letter about 8 and took it into Florence's B.R. to read and then came back and slept for 3 good hours. Got up just in time for lunch. After lunch studied Italian awhile and got ready to go to Fiesole.

We got there at 4 and went into the straw shop to look around and then we went to the monastery of San Girolamo where the Blue Nuns live. I was just fascinated with the place. It was so beautiful and the acting Mother Superior, Mother Martha, said we could go all over the place and have tea and go into the chapel and see St. Florina, the Martyr who died when he was twelve years old.

We went all over and I was delighted with it. We had tea with thin slices of bread and butter and Sister G. took us over the house to see the cells they made into rooms for boarders.* We said we would stay to Benediction, the evening service at 6 o’clock.

While we were waiting who should come along but Helen with a Mrs. Fisher, a boarder at the Montebello who was very pleasant. They soon went in and we went into the service which was beautiful with the sweet voices of the sisters singing the chants.

We saw the waxen form of the martyr and after the service walked down a steep road to San Domenico** where we took the car for Le Lune. We had dinner out of doors. After dinner we had a game of Sequence and I beat.

It was a beautiful day. Florence paid all the expenses of the trip and gave me four beautiful postcards of the convent and a pamphlet about it with views of the walks re.

*The Blue Nuns until the 1980's ran a guest house at the monastery.
**The little hamlet of San Domenico di Fiesole (148m/486ft above sea level) is only about half a mile southwest of Fiesole and right on the boundary of Florence, with a panoramic view of the city. Its San Domenico Church (1406-1435; rebuilt in the 17th century) has a richly furnished interior, with a beautiful altarpiece by Fra Angelico (c. 1430) in the first chapel on the left.

Looking for new lodgings again

Went to bed last night about one, so slept over and did not wake up till 8:30. F. B. H. came in to my room, asked me if I would like to walk over to the Pestellini to see the manager and see when she could get in, so I hurried and had b’fast and dressed. Helen came in just as I was ready. She brought up her Italian grammar for me. Then we three walked over to the Pestellini. Said she would let F. come just as soon as she had a vacant room. I thought the place was a beautiful one. Helen did not go in, but went back to town. She said they sent the hat up and she took it. We walked back to the Le Lune.

After lunch F.B.H. lay down and I talked to her and finished knitting my blue slippers – one of those I did three times. And I had to rip out lots of places. At 3:45 we took our work and went out and sat under the trees. The Baltimore lady and her daughter sat with us. Mrs. Oudesluys read aloud from The Beauty of the Sting while the rest of us sewed. I put the ribbon on the bottom of my black silk dress and hemmed it where it had been let down. It took me four hours to do.

Miss Hannay lent us her London paper telling about the terrible disaster. It was so needless.

After dinner we came upstairs and Mrs. O. read the paper while I sewed and Florence ripped a flower out that she had made in the contadino veil she wants to send Mollie.

Yesterday I met one of the Princess Irene’s passengers, the one from Denver, Colorado who always wore a blue veil. They have been to Greece and Constantinople. She said they had had a delightful trip. They had met Miss Witt and Miss Peet a number of times since they had left the ship. A nice letter from Margaret. Read Uncle Hugh’s* manuscript over the second time. It is the third section.

*Hugh Young (b. 1830) was married to Anne Carolyn Thurston who was the younger sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Bowers Thurston. He was writing his autobiography.

Shopping in Florence

No letter from any of the children.

Had b’fast in bed and studied my Italian while doing so, washed my stockings and gloves re - Florence came in and pinned my black silk dress where it ought to be to hang straight. The English Type - the mother with a cap and her daughter, left this morning, also the German family - the woman who was so horrid to her little girl.

Florence and I went downtown. I carried down my plant and a lot of medicines to the Montebello to make it easier when I come to move. Then Helen and I went back to Munsterberg, the druggist, where we met Florence. She went back with me to the milliner’s but she did not have my feathers ready. She thinks she can fix my old one by turning the inside out which is not faded and facing the faded part with blue silk.

Then we went to the new market and bought some filel lace to go with the dress F. has given me and some Cluny* edging and insertions because it was cheap. Florence brought a trunk for $16.60 - a steamer trunk.

We did not go to look at the rooms. Helen seemed to be possessed to have me go to the Jennings Riccioli** instead of to the one where the Hubbells are. Florence was tired and had to go back while I went around to try to find a book from which Elena could learn English.

Then Helen saw a hat in the window and liked it. It was $4. Helen got her to take 3.60 and paid for it, and then suddenly remembered that other hat that she had ordered from the little milliner and wanted her money back which the other would not give. Helen got mad and threatened her with the American consul, but the girl would not give in. Finally she went off without the money or the hat either. I said I thought she would have trouble but she would not listen.

I spoke French for they could not understand each other, caught the 6:40 tram for the house. After dinner taught the Oudesluys to play Sequence. Miss Pete’s people are not going to leave so F. can’t go.

*Cluny lace-lace made from coarse thread used to edge household linens
**Jennings-Riccioli, nº 2 de Lungarno delle Grazie, was the model for the fictional Pensione Bertolini in Forester’s “A Room with a View.”

Trip to Fiesole (2)

Woke up at 7:45, but felt pretty tired so did not get right up. However, soon called for hot water, took my bath, and had breakfast with half a cup of F.’s stewed cherries. Before I was dressed, my Italian teacher came and I spent two hours working as hard as I could. Paid her 5 fr. for two double lessons and carfare.

After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.


First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.

Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.

Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.

They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.

The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.

After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.

* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.

Sunday service at the American Church

Was dressed before I rang for breakfast.

Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.

Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.

Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.

Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.

Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.

*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.

Trip to Fiesole

Woke up a little before eight. Breakfast in bed at nine. Studied the Italian grammar most diligently for an hour or more.

Washed some pieces. Mended stockings. Then went into F.’s room to work on my black silk dress. The skirt does not hang evenly. I tried it on. Florence changed it a little and I sewed it again.

Helen came up and we went to Fiesole, Florence, Helen and I. We went into the Cathedral and then into the Greek theater and the old baths. Florence took me in, a franc apiece. I saw the old Etruscan wall and we wandered all over the ruins.


The theatre has a wonderful situation looking out on the hills of Florence. We saw the ivory admission ticket that was given to the gladiator Euporus 62 B.C. after he had won 15 times, to admit him to a seat in the theatre. It was given to him by the Roman Consul. We spent a most interesting afternoon looking at the museum, theatre, etc. Helen had seen it several times and wouldn’t go in.

We met a Mrs. Hubbell w. her sister and daughter from California. It began to sprinkle so we came back to the Luné while Helen went home. The Directore told us of the dreadful news of the sinking of the Empress of Ireland yesterday morning and many people drowned. It was in the Italian paper. It positively makes me sick.*

It rained hard. Played Sequence with Florence and she beat me dreadfully.

*In the early morning hours of May 29, 1914, the Canadian Pacific ocean liner Empress of Ireland was cruising the St. Lawrence, headed for Liverpool. Travelling the opposite way was the Norwegian collier Storstad, weighed down by a full load of coal. Each ship had spotted the other, but a sudden fog obscured both. A collision sank the Empress of Ireland in just 14 minutes with more than 1000 passengers losing their lives.

First Italian lesson, hats, and sightseeing in Florence

Woke up quite early, had my bath, and rang for breakfast by eight. The breakfast had not come so had to wait. Read my French book a while. Was dressed by ten and went into F’s room. She is feeling somewhat better. Helen called me up on the telephone and I said we were going down today.

Signorina Bianca Carli came before F. was dressed so I went down and talked to her in French and began my first lesson in Italian. Florence did not take. I read the words over and we talked a little until twelve o’clock.

Florence went right down to the doctor’s after lunch, but I was not ready. Missed a car so was late in meeting Helen at Dr. Dunn’s. There were six ahead so I did not wait.

Helen took me to her milliner’s. She is going to fix my feathers and perhaps my hat by trimming it so I can wear it this summer.

Then we went down to the Duomo and took No. 8 to the end of the line, Piazza Michelangelo. I was so tired I could not go to see the two churches so we sat there and rested there, looked at the statue of David by Michelangelo and at the wonderful view of Florence and then came back to the Duomo where I took the car for the Luné.


After dinner, Florence stewed cherries and taught me Italian while I knit. Then we played Sequence and F. beat me all to pieces. Florence likes Dr. Ginguioli. He wants her to go to the Pestellini* as soon as she can. He thinks he can help her very much.

* Nigel Nicolson in “A Portrait of a Marriage”, describes his mother, Vita’s stay there in 1908 on her first visit to Florence: “They stayed at the Villa Pestellini, an ochre-coloured house with loggias and terraces and a cottage in the garden, and descended each day to the city…” In 1912, she went with Rosamund to Florence and stayed in the cottage at the Villa Pestellini.

Sewing, walking, and card games

Breakfast in bed. It rained a little in the morning and looked so cloudy at lunch that we decided to give up going to the city. Tried to call up Helen on the telephone and could not get the Montebello so wrote her a postal.

Had a nice letter from Hazel and a note from Percy, also four cunning pictures of John. Hazel said they were going to send me $40 next month but it is not owing me till August. She also said she was not satisfied with Percy’s condition.

Received also a nice letter from Alfred. Wrote a letter to Hazel about the money.

Florence made some hot tea and I went in and took my sewing. Then we went out and took a beautiful walk through the hanging vines along the Via Barbacane.


Stayed downstairs in the salon for a while after dinner then came up and played Sequence with Florence and she beat me.

Restful day in the Pensione in Florence

Weather has cleared off.

I had breakfast in bed and read my French a while and then I was sleepy and took a nap, so that Helen and Florence came in and found me.

Florence went down and called up Miss Petus and found she could not get in there till June 4th so she has decided to stay here and I shall stay as long as she does.

Helen is very far from well. She has also mucous colitis just as Florence says and I am trying to get her to go to see the doctor, but she wants to wait and consult an American woman doctor who is coming to Florence next month. She ought to have special food. I do not think she will go to the new pension with me as we had planned. She left when our lunch bell rang.

After lunch Florence and I took our sewing and went out into the garden to sit. Florence had the long chair which the invalid usually has. I did a lot of mending while Florence was working on one of her contadini* veils repairing it. Then I came upstairs and wrote a long letter to Percy and Hazel.

After dinner we sat in the salon a while then I came up to write my diary.

*peasant

Rainy day in the Pensione

It poured all day long without cessation.

Paid my bill. Wrote to Margaret and to Alfred. Sat with Florence in the afternoon and mended. She made some hot tea which tasted very good for it was hot and the weather is so cold and depressing.

We played Sequence in the evening. I beat a game of 100 and Florence one of 50. We sat up till eleven. After that I looked over that silly book, The Visits of Elizabeth* till after midnight.

Had a nice letter from Florence. She is going to Oregon with Tommy.** I am glad.

Told the Directore that we were going to leave.

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Morse, my twin.***

*Published in 1901 by Elinor Gwyn: “British author Elinor Glyn (1864-1943) wrote a number of novels, many featuring strong female characters in sexually charged situations. The most scandalous was Three Weeks, which nearly ended Glyn's career. Later in her career she was lured to Hollywood to write screenplays, one of which originated the idea of the "It Girl." She also directed two unsuccessful films.” Encyclopedia of World Biography
.**Referring to Jennie’s daughter, Florence, and husband, Tommy Sanford
***Mrs. Morse is her daughter Margeret’s mother-in-law.

Rainy day while looking for new lodgings

Rained all the afternoon. I did not sleep well, did not wake early, had no breakfast, took my bath, washed my hair and a few things.

I went in to see Florence and found her perfectly discouraged about herself. I advised her to see a different doctor and to try to get some help which I believed would be through diet and not through medicine. So she went down and got the manager to call up Dr. Toti who recommends a Dr. Giglioli near the Montebello.*

This afternoon right after lunch we went down to his office and he was most encouraging. He said they had found new remedies for this mucous colitis and that it was controlled by diet more than by medicine but he said she ought to go to some place where she would have just the right kind of cooking and he mentions the Montebello and a Miss Peters.

He also gave her tiny doses of castor oil and salol** to take every two hours and a dessert spoonful of Laxative Vaseline every night. I like the doctor very much and I am sure she is going to be better.

It rained and we took a carriage to the Montebello where we found Helen who made us some delicious coffee with cream, bread and butter and cake, very nice. We talked over places and I made up my mind to try to go to some place for 6 or 7 francs than to try to get into the Montebello for eight, so Helen and I went to a pension in the Arno and I looked at rooms, good for 6 fr., very good for 7, good cooking and all. I think we shall go there together but it depends on what Florence can do. We may go to Lausanne, later on.

It was raining hard so we took a cab back to the Montebello and then further to the Fiesole tram for F. and me. The rain came in the top of the car and I got wet. Changed all my things when I got back. Had dinner, cup of hot milk, an egg, soup, beans, dessert -strawberries with white white. Some new people have come here.

*Hotel Montebello, Via Curtatone 2.
**Phenyl salicylate, or salol, is a chemical substance, introduced in 1886 by Marceli Nencki of Basel. It can be created by heating salicylic acid with phenol. It has been used as an intestinal antiseptic based on the antibacterial activity upon hydrolysis in the small intestine.

American Church and visit with Helen

Very late about rising - as usual.

However, caught the 10:15 car and through the kindness of some people learned how to go to the American church* where I met Helen. The church is very pretty, the rector a fine man. He read the service in a slow impressive manner. The music was beautiful. Unfortunately there is a bad echo so one loses the words and so the connection of thought. The church was quite well filled. It took me one hour to return. Reached here at 1:30, an hour late to lunch, so had just bread and milk and an orange.

Helen came out about four, soon after Florence went down to see Pauline Altiocchi, so Helen and I were left alone. She asked me some pointed questions and I told her the truth about last winter, how Florence had become restive under the unnatural conditions in which she found herself, so that she actually felt she was doing wrong if she went alone either to walk or to make a call knowing Helen would feel hurt if left behind.

I told Helen that such a relation between people was unnatural and unpleasant. That Florence liked her very much but that she felt she must have more freedom of action and I told Helen that if she wanted to join us on the condition that we would all be free to live our own lives, we would be glad to have her. She did not answer, but evidently wishes to think it over.

Florence returned tired out, her feet hurting her. Helen left just before F. returned. F. had seen Pauline and her children and had invited them all here for tea on Tuesday, but I begged her to recall the invitation as she was so unwell. Sat up till after twelve writing to Alfred.

*Most likely St. James American Protestant Episcopal Church, Via Rucellai Bernardo 9, which is known as “the American Church” and was built 1908-1911.

Letters and new teeth

Slept very firmly. Got up at 6. Ate two oranges and wrote in this diary.

Florence came in about 7:30 as I was writing to Alfred and began to expatiate on the way Helen has been acting of late - which I must say I think has been very foolish.

Had caffe latte at 9.

Then the Directore sent in to ask if I wanted the other room and after talking it all over decided I did. So I dressed and began to move taking my smallest table and chairs. The room is two down from F’s, has sun in the afternoon and is a little larger and the bed is lower. The other bed was 34 inches from the floor. I was all in order by lunch time.

After lunch wrote a long letter to Alfred about addresses re. and told him things had been going on here with Helen and Florence, re. and then sent it to Margaret as she would understand the situation and told her to forward it to Alfred. Sent William the drawing of the sword of Damocles. Mailed them at the branch P.O. in the city.

Took the 4:45 car and got to Dr. Dunn’s office by 5:15. Waited some time and then he called me in and filled the teeth in. I think they do not bite quite right, but I am mighty glad to get them.

Went for my gloves but they are not ready. Got home at 7 as I walked up from San Gervasio.*

So delighted with my teeth that I showed them to several people. That nice Miss Hanney, the English lady, said she hoped my troubles were over. I hope so too. After supper we went outside and sat awhile and then came upstairs.

*Probably Via San Gervasio.

Shopping and doctors' visits in Florence

Read a little more Eugene Sue with my b’fast.

Florence came in to say that the Russian count who had the room next to hers was going and that the proprietor said I could have his room as the same price. I looked at it. It has light furniture. I did not like it so I am to have the next with dark furniture. I fussed around my room all the morning washing gloves and the 3 veils.

After lunch got ready to go up town or down town with Florence.

She went to the U.S. Consulate* and got two powers of attorney; had to pay $2 a piece for them. We also went to P.O. and sent off a money order for $2.50 to get our English daily paper.

Then we went to her ear doctor, Dr. Tito, and she asked for her bill. Then we went to several shops to get a parasol for me and I bought a gray one for $1.60 that will do but that I do not like. You cannot buy ready made things in Italy and I think it costs as much to live here as in the U.S.

Then Florence went home and I went to the dentist’s. I waited half an hour and saw him five minutes.

I have more doubts about these teeth being suitable or successful, but Dr. Dunn says they will give me better service than what I had.

Got back to the pension about 6. Found Florence here. Her foot troubles her greatly. We sat out on the terrace before dinner and in the salon afterwards.

Got talking to the two sisters and nurse of the woman with spine trouble. Then we came upstairs and played Sequence till eleven.

*Located at 9 Via Tornabuoni

Festival of the Cricket in Florence

Florence* was married a year ago today.

As usual lately I did not sleep well and therefore slept late. Florence came into my room at 8:15 o’clock to ask me if I did not want to go to the Park in Florence to the cricket festival.** She said it began at 4. She said she did not feel well enough to go but thought I would enjoy it, but as I was not dressed and it was late and I would have to go alone, I declined.

I had b’fast in bed and began to read Le [Lupine?] by Eugene Sue with the help of a dictionary. Then at 9:45 Helen called up and wanted me to go to the Festival and I said I could get dressed and start in half an hour which I did.

I got to the Duomo** a little ahead of Helen. We took a # 5 car and went out to the Park and walked up and down watching the people and the children and the people who sold things to eat, the men who sold toys and especially the ones who sold crickets.


There were thousands and thousands of poor crickets in boxes and pans? But especially in little cages of every hue and color. I bought one for 8 cents, also a flying machine and a clacker. We walked up and down several times there as the crowd rapidly thinned we sat down and talked about everything and everybody. Helen defends her conduct of last Tuesday, saying she acted in a conscientious manner. She apparently cannot see that she was mean and untruthful and deceiving. She said she felt ill and I begged her to put herself under the care of a good doctor, but she won’t. She seemed to have no discipline, no will power left. I tried to talk to her and advise her but it was of no use and I shall just try again. We stayed in the park until 3, then took a car back to town and then went to a tea room where I had ice cream and cake and Helen had caffe latte and cakes. I ate 5. We paid 1 fr. 20 cent. a piece as caffe latte costs more than ice cream.

Then Helen took me as guest [on a] most beautiful drive over the Viale de Colli. It was through a most beautiful country where you had a wonderful view of the city. Then we came down to the Duomo and I took the car home. The drive was Helen’s treat and cost a dollar. I brought the cricket home and let it out of the box.

Florence was here. I bought some “American molasses candy” which was rancid and awfully poor. I told her all about the day and the conversations. Some new people have come to the pension and 3 automobile loads came up and had dinner on the terrace.

I found a nice letter here from Alfred. Sat in F’s room after dinner playing solitaire and knitting.

The people on the terrace made such a noise I could not sleep till late.

*Her daughter, Florence Thurston Hincks, was married May 21, 1913 to Thomas Frederick Sanford, a professor of English at the University of California.
**the Duomo of Florence, also known as the Cathedral of Florence or Santa Maria del Fiore
**In late April or May, the annual cricket festival, Festa del Grillo, is held in the Cascine Park in Florence.**

Going Hat Shopping and to the Dentist

Slept better.

Florence came into my room at 8:15, found me in bed and said she was going to have her lunch sent up and could get it cheaper if it came with Helen’s so she went down to see the manager about it. He said she wasn’t coming and then repeated what Helen has said and done.

Florence was furious and insisted upon bringing the manager into my room and having him tell [truth]. Then she called up Helen who hedged, said she thought it wasn’t right to come under the circumstances, appealed for advice and finally when Florence told her to do what she wanted to, decided to stay at the Montebello.* So Florence ordered her lunch to be brought up. I got up, washed out some h’chiefs, ripped the feathers off my hat.

We decided to go down town after lunch, buy our hats, go to the bank, see about letters re. hunt up a dentist. We had quite a little time about getting Alfred’s check for $306.94 - cashed but we did finally.

Then I left gloves to be cleaned and we did numerous small errands and then we hunted up Dr. Wm Dunn.** There were lots of patients in the waiting room and at first the girl said we would have to make an appointment, but when she heard it was an accident, she said she would take the plate and the broken tooth and show him and then she came back and said he would see me in an hour.

So F. and I walked down to the New Market to buy an outing hat. I picked out the one I wanted and then had to hurry back to the dentist who advised me to cut off those three roots level with the gum and have a plate made. Said he could give it to me by Saturday whereas if I had all my teeth out, it would take a month before the gums would heal enough to have teeth {adher}. So he ground down the 3 teeth and made an impression of the bite.

Found my way back alone. Florence came in soon after. She had brought 2 more veils and the two cheap hats. Florence’s feet hurt terribly all the afternoon and evening. It is the gout in them. After dinner sat in F’s room. Played solitaire awhile myself and got it finally.

*Via Curtatone 2
**Dr. Dunn, a dentist, is mentioned in the 1886 Baedecker as being on Piazza S. Maria Novella 24.

Hat shopping in Florence

Slept poorly. Think it is indigestion. Had bread and milk for breakfast.

Finished T. Teinbaum so Helen could take it. She came in before I was dressed. She can’t make up her mind whether to come up here and join us or not. Finally said she would - then went down and beat the price down to 7 frc. a day for a sunny room and then told him 7. Said she would not stay if she did not get her room at the same price and she made such a muddle of it, that she decided she would not come, but she did not tell us of her discussion and we were expecting her tomorrow.

We went down and had lunch and then Florence said, “Let’s go to Florence and buy our sun hats - it will do us good,” so we started off. It cost us a franc for car fares because we got into the right bus going in the wrong direction but we saw lots of the city. Hunted and hunted for a store where they sold old laces till we found it and then Florence bought 5 v. 2 3 ???. Mine cost $2.50.

One is for my hat trimming; an interesting old Italian and his son have the shop and they go all over Italy buying these things. These things were worn by contadini* women and thrown over babies for christening. They are most interesting. I shall use mine for a little shawl.

I also bought a little blue delft bottle for 50 cen. We stayed there till six and then had to get back for dinner. I ate only soup and bread and milk because I was so tired.


Played several hands of Sequence with Florence and beat her. Then I played solitaire alone till eleven like a fool. We looked at our purchases and divided them. I had final choice. We went out to walk right after lunch and got caught in a shower or at least it began to rain, but not heavily till we got into the house. No letters.

*peasant

Still under the weather in Florence

Did not sleep well. Had breakfast at 9:45. Got up at 10 - dressed, washed out several things, mended a lot of clothes.

Unpacked most of my trunk, the things I would need.

Went to lunch - a good one.

Sat in Florence’s room most of the afternoon. I was sewing and she pressing down the lace collars to dry that she had washed this morning.

Finished a slipper. Afraid I bound it off too tight.

Showed Florence how to play Solitaire.

Went to dinner.

Taught Florence how to play Sequence.

The missionary nuns came with a lot of embroidery lace and leather ??? I did not buy because I felt too poor.

It rained all day.

Read T. Tanbaum till late.

Still sick...

Did not sleep very well and woke with a headache so I did not eat any breakfast except two oranges. Florence’s throat is so bad that she is going to the doctor’s after lunch.This pen is acting badly again and leaking all over my fingers.

Helen came and stayed to lunch and after lunch, Helen, Florence and I went into the doctor’s. Florence had forgotten it was Sunday and had not made an appointment so we found the doctor out. Nothing to do but wait so we went to a fashionable store and had some frozen custard and cakes and sat in the show windows and then Florence was tired and said she would go home so we walked to the car with her intending to come back and listen to the music.

We stopped at the Baptistery and looked in.It is where all the Catholic babies rich and poor have been baptized for years. Three were waiting there. It was cold and I did not dare to stay so we started for the music and it began to sprinkle so I said I was afraid of catching more cold and I would go home.


Looked in again in the Baptistery, more babies, came out and thought I would go and hear the music but it looked so like rain I turned back, so went into the Baptistery again. Four babies were being baptized and several more including one with a cloak embroidered with a crown and an M in gold were waiting. Florence said it must have been a child of a big ducal family. So cold I did not wait.Helen put me in the car. Told the manager Helen was coming Wednesday.

He was rather disagreeable about it; said he could not keep a room for her.

Went down to dinner. Sat with my back to the rest of the people.

Letter from Margaret saying Hazel was making trouble about the furniture. Wrote a nice letter to Florence.

Restful Saturday in Florence

Slept very well. Woke at 7:40. Had b’fast at 8:40 in bed.

My eyes are weak from reading so much I guess when I was sick, so I must be careful of them.

I wrote a long letter to Marion.

Was dressed about noon and went in to see Florence. Her throat is very sore and has white ulcers on it. Nevertheless she went to lunch and dinner as they were charging her a franc a day for service. They charge me half that so I had lunch and dinner alone in F.’s room.

After lunch we went out and sat in the cement platform waiting for Helen. We waited from two to four when she came. In the meantime, Florence was lying in one of those long reclining chairs when a woman came out and asked for it for someone who had spinal trouble so of course Florence gave it up. Florence went in at 4:30 and Helen and I went for a short walk.

Helen told me she was not well and was worried and did not know what to do, whether to stay over or go to Bellnos Falls [sic] or what to do. Said she was afraid she would be in the way here if she stayed next winter.

I talked to her very frankly and tried to show her that people needed freedom of action and times of being by themselves. She was very nice about it but I don’t think she understands by experience she is of such a dependent nature.

It rained hard when she left at 6:30. I had a very nice dinner. Read T Trusbaum until after eleven in my room. My cold has nearly gone.

Sitting with Florence

I read The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens until after eleven and then I dressed and went in to see Florence. Found her better, but still with a sore throat and feeling badly. It is a shame I should have given her this cold. I feel very badly about it.

I had lunch there with her and then sat and mended and talked for several hours. Then I read aloud a couple of Margaret’s letters and I finished Lis Doris.

Read last Sunday’s paper aloud - the big earthquake in Sicily last Saturday. We did not feel it here.



Florence lent me the money to pay my bill for $58.50 - charged me 6 francs for my trunk. Helen did not come out today. I had dinner with Florence and sat with her talking till eleven o’clock.

I am knitting my blue slippers with too heavy wool but it is the only wool that is of the right color. I have pulled it out twice because I didn’t like it but shall let it go this time.

Out of bed at last!

I got up about ten, but it was nearly noon before I was dressed, as I did some mending. Carried my sewing in to Florence’s room, put hooks and eyes into my new guimpe.

Used the pretty new grey bag with old rose lining that Mrs. Morse gave me Christmas.

After lunch I went out and walked an hour, going up to the next little town and back. It was the first time I had been dressed since May 5th.

I found Helen here when I came back. She brought out some calimel* and Florence and I each took half 12 tablets. I had lunch and dinner in Florence’s room.

I am reading The Price of Lis Doris and find it most interesting.

*Probably “calomel”, mercury chloride, used as a laxative and disinfectant until the 1940’s.

Resting in Florence VIII

Slept pretty well, but my chest is very sore from coughing.

Helen came up this morning but spent all her time in Florence’s room. She wanted one to advise her whether she ought to go home this summer, but I told her I couldn’t. She must do what she thought best.

The manager sent in his bill and asked me 8 frs. a day for this room instead of 7 and half a franc for service in sending meals up also, 6 francs for bringing up trunk. Florence made him take off the franc in the day. It is all right - I expect to be cheated and should be disappointed I suppose if I wasn’t.

Got up after lunch and sat in Florence’s room while mine was being cleaned. She read me letters from Mrs. Brown (whom she met in Carmel and who is in Japan) and from Mildred and I read her the one I received today from my Florence.

I don’t like the food here, detest it to be frank. I live principally on bread and milk. Have begun The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens.*



Knit a lot on my slipper. Didn’t like the shape and ripped it out.

Eighth day in bed.

**Published in 1909, this is the story of a Dutch peasant boy who becomes a famous painter, but whose fame is stolen from him by a wealthy amateur under whose protection his career has been successfully launched.

Resting in Florence VII

Poor Florence’s cold is so bad that she is going to stay in bed. I am so sorry. I went in to see her for a few minutes.

Read A Crimson Blind by Fred. A. White,* a piece of pure and poor trash.

I think my cold is better.

*Subtitle is “A Plucky Girl’s Detective Work”, published in 1905.

Resting in Florence VI

Another day in bed.

Began a letter to Alfred. Knit some in my blue slippers. My eyes and head ached so I did not read. My cough is very tight but I have no fever at all.

Helen came and brought me some tablets, Zymole* for which I paid her 1 fr. 80 cents. 36 cents for a 25 ct. article.


We had tea about five. I hate tea. Helen says she is coming out here next week. She is having a dress and a suit made, very nice ones.

Florence had a letter from Mollie and she is better. Also one from Marion. She says Edith** is a little better but too weak to leave the house. Little Marion has whooping cough.

*”Why wait for that hoarseness to ‘wear off,’ when Zymole Trokey will stop it so much quicker? Disagreeable coughs are often avoided by the use of "Zymole Trokeys.” This is from a 1908 advertisement.

**Edith is Marion's daughter (b. 1883) who married to John Graeff Kennedy. “Little Marion” is their daughter born in 1908.

Resting in Florence V

A gloomy day outside and another day in bed. Helen came up and stayed a while this morning.

She is going to Parsifal* this afternoon. It begins at 3, lasts till eight and she goes home for afternoon tea in the interim.


Florence stayed a little while but she is afraid of this cold. I don’t wonder. I cough and cough with no result. I am tired of it myself. Had a good nap this afternoon.

Read my March number of Current Literature.**

I had a nice letter from Margaret.

* Wagner’s Parsifal had its Italian premiere in 1914.
**A literary review that regularly ran much fiction, much of it reprinted from obscure sources for national circulation.

Resting in Florence IV

Another day in bed.

I get up before seven each morning, send for hot water, wash myself and everything else, dishes, h’chiefs, make my bed, pick up my room, and after I have everything in order, I send for a hot water bottle, and breakfast, and get into bed.

B’fast consists of a big cup of hot milk (a small pitcher full is the way it is brought), a small pot of coffee and two stale rolls cut up and toast and several curly cues of butter. I detest it.

Florence is afraid of my cold. Indeed she has had a slight cold herself with sore throat and she is raising phlegm while I cough and cough and can’t. So she spends but little time with me.

It rained hard so Helen did not come up. I had a letter from Margaret about my letters being carbonned and sent around. I didn’t think they are worth it.

Spent most of the day reading The Weaker Vessel by E.F. Benson.* Took a long nap in the afternoon.



*a novel published in 1913.

Resting in Florence III

My temp is normal and I am better. Florence went to town to do a lot of errands. She saw Helen who went to the opera last night.

I read Diana Mallory all day and finished it. Knit a very little. Played solitaire.

Florence was in my room but little as she is afraid of infection and tonight she has a slight temperature. I am very sorry.

I had a nice letter from Alfred with enclosure of $60. I wrote him a postal acknowledging it. I am afraid to write a letter for fear of infection.

Resting in Florence II

Slept better and feel better. Got up, bathed, washed out four h’chiefs, picked up my room.

Had the everlasting rolls and coffee “latte” with milk for breakfast.

Helen came up and brought me some antiphlogistine* for my throat, and some beautiful blue corn flowers and white-pinks.



Helen stayed to lunch - we had a nice long talk. Florence lay down, went out to walk, I talked so much I made my throat sore. Helen tried to get some more registered letters but she couldn’t do it. Also a letter was sent from the boarding house yesterday which has not arrived.

*a poultice for pains and swellings caused through colds, sore throat, rheumatism, bruises, sprains and muscular pains.

Resting in Florence

Did not sleep at all well. At 5:40 a black cat crawled up in the window sill and cried. I tried to send her off but she wouldn’t go. Then we had a thunderstorm and heavy rain and I let the cat in.

Florence and I talked all the morning about everything and in the afternoon, Helen came in and we talked a lot more and had afternoon tea. Didn’t have any dinner as I had a little fever (100). Fortunately I had carried the fever tablets that Dr. Cogswell had given me in Amherst, so I took those and I kept awake till eleven so as to get the three doses in.

I had a nice letter from Hazel containing two pictures of John and also one from Florence.

I finished Eleanor* by Mrs. Humphrey Ward. I am beginning Diana Mallory** by the same author. I think I have read it before. Manisty in Eleanor is just like Tommy,*** I think.


Helen brought me some delicious strawberries. I do not dare to write to the children for fear of giving them the infection.

*Eleanor published in 1900
**The Testing of Diana Mallory published in 1908, a strong anti-Suffrage book. Mrs. Humphry Ward (1851-1920) was the niece of Matthew Arnold and a popular late Victorian novelist who was brought up at Oxford and whose work was marked by religious conflict.
***Tommy Sanford is her son-in-law married to her daughter, Florence.

In Florence with Florence and Helen!

Was called before six - dressed, finished packing and was off before 7:30. Miss Shakspere Wood said she hoped I would return. They were kind and I was sorry to go.

Took twenty minutes and cost 8 fr. 20 to get any trunk billed through to Florence. Got a nice seat. 2nd class by the window. An Italian family of five came in. I felt headachy and half sick.

Watched the scenery which was interesting. Very primitive methods - hardly scratch the soil with their ploughs.

Italian family went to lunch. 3 English women came in. Thought they would come to blows.

Florence and Helen* both at station to meet me. It was raining. Had to wait half an hour for my trunk.



Drove out to Pension Le Lune which seems very pleasant. I am to have a small room and pay 7 frs. a day. Helen did not come up as she is staying at the Montebello, to have her clothes fixed.

We had tea in Florence’s room and in eating a piece of zweibach. I broke off my other tooth, so that means more money and more distress but it can’t be helped.

My cold is growing worse so I shall not go down but have my dinner in my room or rather Florence’s. Had soup and whipped cream and cake. Had a hot water bottle and went to bed.

Florence came in and we talked till eleven. My cold is so stuffy, I could not sleep. Had a nice letter from Margaret** forwarded from Rome.

*An old friend, Helen Chase.
**Her daughter, Margaret Morse who is living in Amherst, MA. at this time.

Wrapping up in Rome

Went to Pantheon and then to the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. It was dark in the church and I was too tired to look any way so I went to Cook’s to ask for letters.



Found none but my pretty hat was smashed out of recognition, had to pay 37 cents duty on it which made me mad. Left my address. Bought second class ticket to Florence. 27 francs 35 centimes.

Got home in time for lunch. Settled bill with Miss Wood for 11 days at 9 francs a day - came to 102 francs and 30 centimes. Miss Wood also wrote to Naples to try and get my letters that are missing.

Read Eleanor by Mrs. Humphrey Ward for a while, then partly packed my trunk and then went to the Boston Hotel to inquire about rooms for next winter. The cheapest were 10 francs a day, automatically raising to 12 in Jan. Felt a little blue and discouraged. Tired I guess. Besides I have a slight cold coming on.

Rode to terminus of No 8 tram, then took No. 1 as Miss Wood advised and rode around the whole circle. Walked home through the Corso.

Stopped in drawing room long enough to say goodbye to the people.

Letter from Florence Humphrey. *

*Her sister, who was in Florence, Italy at the time.

Mass in St. Peter's Basilica and Colosseum in Rome

A very busy day. I went to the 9:30 service in the chapel of Julia in St. Peters* at 9:40 today. I went so early I had a fine seat. The service was both beautiful, and interesting.

After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.

After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.


Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.

I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.

*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto