Visit to opera and sightseeing in Verona. News that Lieges is taken

We all had b’fast in the large bedroom and at 9.30 Florence left for Florence. Helen went to the P.O., found a letter from Thos. Cook & Son, Milan saying the missing trunks were there so she took it right to the station to show Florence.

Then Helen and I went out to walk. We went to San Maggiore and around by the Duomo and by the Amphitheatre house. We had lunch in our own room – mine was hot-bread and milk. I did not feel at all well and I slipped on the polished tiling and fell.

We lay down and had a good rest and about five went out to walk again. We bought tickets for the opera tonight in the amphitheatre and took a car ride to Porta Santa Nuova and back. Dinner was late. Then we came upstairs and got our thick things.

I went to the opera.* Helen took her steamer rug and we sat on the broad stone seats and watched the opera. It was wonderful and I enjoyed it very much and would have more if I had not been so sleepy. The stage was so large it made a splendid setting and the moon rose and shone over all. There were a great many in the lire seats. There were a great many performers and the orchestra was good. It was over at 12.07 – we went home after waiting till the greater part of the crowd had gone.

It was 1.30 before we got to bed. I hear that Lieges is taken by the Germans.

*Carmen

Peaches in Verona and more war news

We had b’fast together. Helen boiled eggs and we had cut up peaches. Then we all went out to see something of the town.

We saw the tombs of the Scaligere and the church of Santa Anastasia. Florence spoke to an Italian and he said only 2% of money was being issued of the money one had on deposit in a bank and advised F. to go to Florence where her money is to see about it so she was for starting off at once to Florence.

She went back to hotel while I went to look at the Arena or ancient Roman theatre. Paid a franc to see it, but it was so hot and so many of the passages were closed that it was not very satisfactory – came back.

F. was having lunch and Helen and I had malted milk, cut up peaches, and crackers. We are to wait here for three days then go to Milan to look up trunks. F.H. had their trunks sent to Milan when they started for Cortina. F. was going this afternoon but was too tired to start. I lay down and read two old newspapers, July 25 and July 30, about the war situation. Then wrote up this diary. We did not go anywhere in the evening for Florence was packing. Helen and I went out to get peaches re., but were not gone long.

Venice to Verona

Got up at 7.30 but it was 9 before I had b’fast. Mrs. Fahs of Omaha was there at the table and we arranged to go to the consul’s together. Rec’d two postals from Florence urging me to come to Verona so I gave up my room and went to the consul’s with Mrs. Fahs.

It was pouring heavily and I got myself wet – except for my new rubbers. The Pomeranian dog was drabbled and looked much the worse for wear. There was a great crowd at the consul’s so they began giving out numbers and I was so fortunate as to get No. 1, but I had a great time to get to the place to get my registration paper made out.

A big man who had a Cook’s party of 28 insisted on having them come in a body first of all – finally the leader let me in because I had No. 1 and “was not young” – and I said I must leave in the afternoon to join my sister who was ill in Verona. I got the paper – went in the rain to Am. Ex. Co. No letters – left address for letters, came back to pension – packed – had lunch – paid bill but refused to tip.

They called a gondola, but I had only 35 minutes to catch the train when I left, but I managed to catch it and feed the gondolier well. Got into 3rd class carriage – there was a priest there that was very pleasant. He got out and some roistering lower class Italians got in. They were full of fun and life but not offensive.

Got out at Verona “Porta Vescova” and rode to the Albergo Nero where Florence and Helen are staying. They were so surprised to see me coming along the corridor. They have been writing an express letter and telegraphing me to remain at Venice but I had left before the letter came. I think it is better we should be together.

We had a nice dinner. Then we went out to get to the principal outdoor caffé and had an ice and watched the crowd. We would have gone on to hear the opera in the arena, but it had been raining. The consul in Venice says not to spend any money and to remain in the big cities. There are 20,000 Americans in Genoa.

Money from home; Senate sends ships for Americans

Got started late this morning for I stopped to write 3 postals. Rec’d a registered letter from Alfred, forward by registered mail from the mail clerk at French Lemon. Also a postal from Margaret saying that Duncan is better and a wild appeal from Florence Humphrey from Verona begging me to write to her re. and she never addressed it to me but only to French Lemon & Co. No wonder she loses mail.

Alfred sent me $165 – $50 from Aunt Marion, $45 – P.W. Co and $65 from him. Wrote F.T.H. telling her again where I was – to Alfred ach. {knowledging] money and to French Lemon ach. [knowledging] letter and the one addressed postal. Mailed them myself at branch P.O.

Then went to public library – saw some handsome illuminated books, bought a few Venetian beads. Then came home. After lunch about 8 [sic] I started out to go to Murano, walked from the Rialto bridge across the city to the water front. Those queer narrow streets and little squares were most interesting.

Took the boat to Murano – a short pretty ride. Went to two churches and the museum, but thought my trip was a failure. Walked back to the Rialto. Very tired. A lady came to see me who had seen Florence in Verona this a.m. Said F. had not heard and was afraid I had gone on to Munich without any money. They all went to the opera last night however.

War news seems to be quieting down. Consul wants every American to come for registration papers. Heard that the Senate had voted to send over ships for stranded Americans so perhaps I will have to go home willy nilly.

More war news and sightseeing

Feel very tired this morning as is very apt to be the case. Received postal from Florence. She was in the train to Bozen* with many soldiers. An Austrian officer advised her to go back to Italy at once, so she and Helen are going to Verona and want me to join them. I wrote a card to her and to Alfred and finished letter to Margaret and went to post office to mail them. They said mail was going to America – went over the central part of the Rialto bridge – very interesting.

Bought some of the cheap printed goods that the people wear. Tried to come home through the Merceria** but came somehow made a wrong turn and had to inquire and inquire, but finally reached S. Marco and then walked to the ferry and then home.

Bought two Italian papers and came home and tried to read the war news with my dictionary. Young Mr. Conte says that Austria is making war in Servia – that Russia has declared war against Germany and Germany against France – that England will be drawn into it as the ally of Russia and France but that Italy will remain neutral. Lay down and fell asleep.

Then studied Baedecker and decided to cross the ferry and walk over to the church of San Giovanni il Paolo.*** I did and enjoyed the walk immensely – enjoyed the church too – then came back by way of the Rialto bridge – going through all sorts of queer little narrow “calles” or streets and campo. Took the Vaporetto.****

12 new people came today. Everyone is talking about the war and everyone wants to get back to U.S. Listened to the talk awhile, then came up and tried to read some more of the Italian paper. Do not like this pension. It is second class.

*Before World War 1, Bozen was part of the Austro-Hungarian county of Tyrol. It was annexed by Italy at the end of the World War 1.
**Merceria is the main shopping street of Venice. It begins near the Rialto Bridge as a small square and goes to St Mark's Square.
***San Giovanni e Paolo
****Water-bus

Americans trying to get passage home

I went to the Museo Civico and spent a most interesting morning in looking over the collections. The guards are all old men and before I got back I had given something to a lot of them, not because they had done anything, but simply because they were old.

I was fifty minutes getting home, and so was very late, 1.40, when I sat down to lunch. Heard that the American consul had sent word to all pensions and hotels requesting all Americans to register – so two of us went around to do so - found the office full of frightened Americans – most of them people who had passage taken on some ship for this morning.

German ships have cancelled sailings and it is impossible to get to France or England to take passage from those countries. Consul advised us not to try to leave Italy as Italy was neutral and safe. Said I couldn’t get into Austria if I tried.

Came back to pension and went to Pension Gregori after mail. Said he had forwarded a postal to me. Then to Am. Exp. Co. - no letters.

Had an ice and listened to the music in the Piazzetta – came home. Found everyone wild with excitement. 500 Americans are trying to charter a steamer to take them home - $100 apiece. I listened to them reading war news. Read Cosmopolitan magazine to quiet my mind before going to bed. Some Italians in a wine shop near here argued so long and fiercely that I couldn’t get to sleep. They did the same thing last night.

Sightseeing and declaration of war by Germany

Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.

Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.

After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.

Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.

Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.

Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.

Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.

*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.

New lodgings in Venice

Had a profuse perspiration in the night and woke up without pain, but weak. Had breakfast in bed – got up about eleven and dressed – but did not go out. Intended to go to station with the Oudesluys – but all four were going in one gondola so I said goodbye at the house.

Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.

Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.

The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.

Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.

I am going to bed, tired but happy.

Fever and toothache -- resting in bed

I had another bad night and had indigestion beside so I had to get up and have a peppermint patty. Towards morning, the pain became less, but I have a big swelling on the side of the roof of my mouth – spent most of the morning dozing. I made up my mind I wouldn’t go tomorrow with the O’s but when I found my temp was 100 ½ (It dropped to 99 ½ this morning) decided I must get out of bed so I began to pick up my things.

The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.

*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."

Toothache, infection, and fever

I had a dreadful night – up and down all night, but I did get a few short naps. Had my meals in bed – principally soup or hot milk as my mouth is so sore I can’t chew and my throat is sore so I can hardly swallow.

The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.

I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.

Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.

Visiting San Marco; toothache

I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.

Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.

My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.

* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.

Art galleries, mail, and bath-houses

Could not sleep so got up at 3.30 and had a peppermint patty, and wrote a note to F.B. H. who has left Pellegrino and is on her way to Cortina to meet us. My letter is to catch her at Riva. I went to the Rialto to mail it and some postcards to Marion for bridge cards.

The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.

Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.

Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.

After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.

Post cards, errands, and Grand Canal tour by gondola

I wrote till after midnight before I finished my letter to Percy about the furniture. This morning I read it over and added another note and sent him some seeds – zucchini and blue morning glory. I also sent Percy’s letter to Margaret – so that she could understand the whole affair. It took me till nearly eleven before I could get my things ready to post.

Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.

Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.

I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.

I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.

I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.

Sunday services in Venice

Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.

Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.

Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.

After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.

It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.

Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.

We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.

Art exposition: Venice Biennale

Slept pretty well, nevertheless, I was awfully tired when I got up. I had breakfast at 8:45 in the dining room with the O’s and a little before ten we were ready to go out.

We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.

The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.

Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.

We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.

After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.

I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.

*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.

First morning in Venice

It was the first morning in the pension and we had b’fast in our rooms, so we three had b’fast in Mrs. Oudesluy’s room.

Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.

We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.

After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.

Arrived at the Gregory in Venice

Got up at 6 and worked hard at my packing till 8 when Maria came in with my b’fast followed by Signora with my lunch and the bill. I had a great time in sorting out the things to take and the things to leave.

About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.

Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.

Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.

Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.

Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.

I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.

*porters

Errands in Florence before traveling to Venice

Got up at 7 – wrote to Uncle Hugh enclosing F.T.H.’s last two letters and to Helen, sending her two letters that came from America – also wrapped up packet of postal cards re re – Got off at 10 with Mrs. Tanner.

Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.

After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.

Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.

Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.

Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.

French lessons at the Dogana and at Palazzo Vecchio

Wrote on my letter to Florence S. till 8 o’clock when I had b’fast – did my usual little washing and a little mending and at a little [before/after] 10, started off for the dogana or Custom House. Went away down to the Duomo and took train no. 19 and had a pleasant ride around the city and finally come to the dogana and had a curious interview with the official. He opened the box – looked at the white suit that I bought in San Jose 4 years ago – declared positively that it was new – and that I had paid what was right in duties. I showed him the bottom of the skirt and protested that it was old, antiquated, ancient, – then he pulled it around – finally said it was old and that I would get my money back in October. All this was in French – ye gods and little fishes.

Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.

*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.

Riding on the Arno

Duncan’s birthday*. I wonder what he is doing! Got up early and wrote on my letter to F.T.S.** before breakfast. Then washed out a couple of pieces and wrote a note to Signorina Carli and one to Mrs. Oudesluys – tied up Baedeker to send to F.B.H.***– and the catalogue of Pitti palace to send Sig. Carli. Started out at 11 – went to P.O. and sent off books, catalogue, re. Then inquired about any packages. It is the box with my dresses – duty 6.32 Frs. And they are to send the box to the customhouse tomorrow and I am to go there to explain and probably they will remit the duty as the clothes have been used. Robas usatas. Bought my new Italian grammar and went to Am. Ex. Co. They will take my trunk to Munich for 12 Frs. $2.40.

After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.

*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.