Restful Saturday in Florence

Slept very well. Woke at 7:40. Had b’fast at 8:40 in bed.

My eyes are weak from reading so much I guess when I was sick, so I must be careful of them.

I wrote a long letter to Marion.

Was dressed about noon and went in to see Florence. Her throat is very sore and has white ulcers on it. Nevertheless she went to lunch and dinner as they were charging her a franc a day for service. They charge me half that so I had lunch and dinner alone in F.’s room.

After lunch we went out and sat in the cement platform waiting for Helen. We waited from two to four when she came. In the meantime, Florence was lying in one of those long reclining chairs when a woman came out and asked for it for someone who had spinal trouble so of course Florence gave it up. Florence went in at 4:30 and Helen and I went for a short walk.

Helen told me she was not well and was worried and did not know what to do, whether to stay over or go to Bellnos Falls [sic] or what to do. Said she was afraid she would be in the way here if she stayed next winter.

I talked to her very frankly and tried to show her that people needed freedom of action and times of being by themselves. She was very nice about it but I don’t think she understands by experience she is of such a dependent nature.

It rained hard when she left at 6:30. I had a very nice dinner. Read T Trusbaum until after eleven in my room. My cold has nearly gone.

Sitting with Florence

I read The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens until after eleven and then I dressed and went in to see Florence. Found her better, but still with a sore throat and feeling badly. It is a shame I should have given her this cold. I feel very badly about it.

I had lunch there with her and then sat and mended and talked for several hours. Then I read aloud a couple of Margaret’s letters and I finished Lis Doris.

Read last Sunday’s paper aloud - the big earthquake in Sicily last Saturday. We did not feel it here.



Florence lent me the money to pay my bill for $58.50 - charged me 6 francs for my trunk. Helen did not come out today. I had dinner with Florence and sat with her talking till eleven o’clock.

I am knitting my blue slippers with too heavy wool but it is the only wool that is of the right color. I have pulled it out twice because I didn’t like it but shall let it go this time.

Out of bed at last!

I got up about ten, but it was nearly noon before I was dressed, as I did some mending. Carried my sewing in to Florence’s room, put hooks and eyes into my new guimpe.

Used the pretty new grey bag with old rose lining that Mrs. Morse gave me Christmas.

After lunch I went out and walked an hour, going up to the next little town and back. It was the first time I had been dressed since May 5th.

I found Helen here when I came back. She brought out some calimel* and Florence and I each took half 12 tablets. I had lunch and dinner in Florence’s room.

I am reading The Price of Lis Doris and find it most interesting.

*Probably “calomel”, mercury chloride, used as a laxative and disinfectant until the 1940’s.

Resting in Florence VIII

Slept pretty well, but my chest is very sore from coughing.

Helen came up this morning but spent all her time in Florence’s room. She wanted one to advise her whether she ought to go home this summer, but I told her I couldn’t. She must do what she thought best.

The manager sent in his bill and asked me 8 frs. a day for this room instead of 7 and half a franc for service in sending meals up also, 6 francs for bringing up trunk. Florence made him take off the franc in the day. It is all right - I expect to be cheated and should be disappointed I suppose if I wasn’t.

Got up after lunch and sat in Florence’s room while mine was being cleaned. She read me letters from Mrs. Brown (whom she met in Carmel and who is in Japan) and from Mildred and I read her the one I received today from my Florence.

I don’t like the food here, detest it to be frank. I live principally on bread and milk. Have begun The Price of Lis Doris by Maarten Maartens.*



Knit a lot on my slipper. Didn’t like the shape and ripped it out.

Eighth day in bed.

**Published in 1909, this is the story of a Dutch peasant boy who becomes a famous painter, but whose fame is stolen from him by a wealthy amateur under whose protection his career has been successfully launched.

Resting in Florence VII

Poor Florence’s cold is so bad that she is going to stay in bed. I am so sorry. I went in to see her for a few minutes.

Read A Crimson Blind by Fred. A. White,* a piece of pure and poor trash.

I think my cold is better.

*Subtitle is “A Plucky Girl’s Detective Work”, published in 1905.

Resting in Florence VI

Another day in bed.

Began a letter to Alfred. Knit some in my blue slippers. My eyes and head ached so I did not read. My cough is very tight but I have no fever at all.

Helen came and brought me some tablets, Zymole* for which I paid her 1 fr. 80 cents. 36 cents for a 25 ct. article.


We had tea about five. I hate tea. Helen says she is coming out here next week. She is having a dress and a suit made, very nice ones.

Florence had a letter from Mollie and she is better. Also one from Marion. She says Edith** is a little better but too weak to leave the house. Little Marion has whooping cough.

*”Why wait for that hoarseness to ‘wear off,’ when Zymole Trokey will stop it so much quicker? Disagreeable coughs are often avoided by the use of "Zymole Trokeys.” This is from a 1908 advertisement.

**Edith is Marion's daughter (b. 1883) who married to John Graeff Kennedy. “Little Marion” is their daughter born in 1908.

Resting in Florence V

A gloomy day outside and another day in bed. Helen came up and stayed a while this morning.

She is going to Parsifal* this afternoon. It begins at 3, lasts till eight and she goes home for afternoon tea in the interim.


Florence stayed a little while but she is afraid of this cold. I don’t wonder. I cough and cough with no result. I am tired of it myself. Had a good nap this afternoon.

Read my March number of Current Literature.**

I had a nice letter from Margaret.

* Wagner’s Parsifal had its Italian premiere in 1914.
**A literary review that regularly ran much fiction, much of it reprinted from obscure sources for national circulation.

Resting in Florence IV

Another day in bed.

I get up before seven each morning, send for hot water, wash myself and everything else, dishes, h’chiefs, make my bed, pick up my room, and after I have everything in order, I send for a hot water bottle, and breakfast, and get into bed.

B’fast consists of a big cup of hot milk (a small pitcher full is the way it is brought), a small pot of coffee and two stale rolls cut up and toast and several curly cues of butter. I detest it.

Florence is afraid of my cold. Indeed she has had a slight cold herself with sore throat and she is raising phlegm while I cough and cough and can’t. So she spends but little time with me.

It rained hard so Helen did not come up. I had a letter from Margaret about my letters being carbonned and sent around. I didn’t think they are worth it.

Spent most of the day reading The Weaker Vessel by E.F. Benson.* Took a long nap in the afternoon.



*a novel published in 1913.

Resting in Florence III

My temp is normal and I am better. Florence went to town to do a lot of errands. She saw Helen who went to the opera last night.

I read Diana Mallory all day and finished it. Knit a very little. Played solitaire.

Florence was in my room but little as she is afraid of infection and tonight she has a slight temperature. I am very sorry.

I had a nice letter from Alfred with enclosure of $60. I wrote him a postal acknowledging it. I am afraid to write a letter for fear of infection.

Resting in Florence II

Slept better and feel better. Got up, bathed, washed out four h’chiefs, picked up my room.

Had the everlasting rolls and coffee “latte” with milk for breakfast.

Helen came up and brought me some antiphlogistine* for my throat, and some beautiful blue corn flowers and white-pinks.



Helen stayed to lunch - we had a nice long talk. Florence lay down, went out to walk, I talked so much I made my throat sore. Helen tried to get some more registered letters but she couldn’t do it. Also a letter was sent from the boarding house yesterday which has not arrived.

*a poultice for pains and swellings caused through colds, sore throat, rheumatism, bruises, sprains and muscular pains.

Resting in Florence

Did not sleep at all well. At 5:40 a black cat crawled up in the window sill and cried. I tried to send her off but she wouldn’t go. Then we had a thunderstorm and heavy rain and I let the cat in.

Florence and I talked all the morning about everything and in the afternoon, Helen came in and we talked a lot more and had afternoon tea. Didn’t have any dinner as I had a little fever (100). Fortunately I had carried the fever tablets that Dr. Cogswell had given me in Amherst, so I took those and I kept awake till eleven so as to get the three doses in.

I had a nice letter from Hazel containing two pictures of John and also one from Florence.

I finished Eleanor* by Mrs. Humphrey Ward. I am beginning Diana Mallory** by the same author. I think I have read it before. Manisty in Eleanor is just like Tommy,*** I think.


Helen brought me some delicious strawberries. I do not dare to write to the children for fear of giving them the infection.

*Eleanor published in 1900
**The Testing of Diana Mallory published in 1908, a strong anti-Suffrage book. Mrs. Humphry Ward (1851-1920) was the niece of Matthew Arnold and a popular late Victorian novelist who was brought up at Oxford and whose work was marked by religious conflict.
***Tommy Sanford is her son-in-law married to her daughter, Florence.

In Florence with Florence and Helen!

Was called before six - dressed, finished packing and was off before 7:30. Miss Shakspere Wood said she hoped I would return. They were kind and I was sorry to go.

Took twenty minutes and cost 8 fr. 20 to get any trunk billed through to Florence. Got a nice seat. 2nd class by the window. An Italian family of five came in. I felt headachy and half sick.

Watched the scenery which was interesting. Very primitive methods - hardly scratch the soil with their ploughs.

Italian family went to lunch. 3 English women came in. Thought they would come to blows.

Florence and Helen* both at station to meet me. It was raining. Had to wait half an hour for my trunk.



Drove out to Pension Le Lune which seems very pleasant. I am to have a small room and pay 7 frs. a day. Helen did not come up as she is staying at the Montebello, to have her clothes fixed.

We had tea in Florence’s room and in eating a piece of zweibach. I broke off my other tooth, so that means more money and more distress but it can’t be helped.

My cold is growing worse so I shall not go down but have my dinner in my room or rather Florence’s. Had soup and whipped cream and cake. Had a hot water bottle and went to bed.

Florence came in and we talked till eleven. My cold is so stuffy, I could not sleep. Had a nice letter from Margaret** forwarded from Rome.

*An old friend, Helen Chase.
**Her daughter, Margaret Morse who is living in Amherst, MA. at this time.

Wrapping up in Rome

Went to Pantheon and then to the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. It was dark in the church and I was too tired to look any way so I went to Cook’s to ask for letters.



Found none but my pretty hat was smashed out of recognition, had to pay 37 cents duty on it which made me mad. Left my address. Bought second class ticket to Florence. 27 francs 35 centimes.

Got home in time for lunch. Settled bill with Miss Wood for 11 days at 9 francs a day - came to 102 francs and 30 centimes. Miss Wood also wrote to Naples to try and get my letters that are missing.

Read Eleanor by Mrs. Humphrey Ward for a while, then partly packed my trunk and then went to the Boston Hotel to inquire about rooms for next winter. The cheapest were 10 francs a day, automatically raising to 12 in Jan. Felt a little blue and discouraged. Tired I guess. Besides I have a slight cold coming on.

Rode to terminus of No 8 tram, then took No. 1 as Miss Wood advised and rode around the whole circle. Walked home through the Corso.

Stopped in drawing room long enough to say goodbye to the people.

Letter from Florence Humphrey. *

*Her sister, who was in Florence, Italy at the time.

Mass in St. Peter's Basilica and Colosseum in Rome

A very busy day. I went to the 9:30 service in the chapel of Julia in St. Peters* at 9:40 today. I went so early I had a fine seat. The service was both beautiful, and interesting.

After it was over, I took, after waiting a long time, tram no. 16 and went to the English church at which I arrived twenty minutes late. Took a seat by the door. It was a very interesting church. I stayed after service to look at the church.

After lunch I talked to Miss Patterson about ruins. At 3:15 I started for the Coliseum and I went all over it climbing up to the very top to get a fine view.


Walked leisurely through the Forum and thought I should come back near tram 16 but I didn’t. I came out at Piazza Venezia and I had to consult my map had to walk quite a long time before I could get the car but I did finally.

I had planned to go to hear the Benediction sung by the nuns in Santa Maria di Monte** but I was both tired and late. I came right home. Stayed in drawing room a few minutes.

*Probably the Julian Chapel that was built by Pope Sixtus IV and now known as the Chapel of the Choir
**Probably Santa Maria di Montesanto

Visiting the first Montessori School in San Lorenzo

Had b’fast in my room as usual. Was ready at 8:45, but the others were not and it was after nine before we started to visit the Montessori School in a poor part of the city.*



Got there a little before ten and I spent the rest of the morning there. There were over 30 children all dressed alike in pink gingham and a head teacher with assistant, both Italian. Children came up and shook hands, wrote on slate in very legible writing, drew flowers, vases, balloons, backs, and worked with different parts of the apparatus. They talked freely, but were nevertheless under much discipline and the teachers scolded them in loud voices.



Miss Patterson and Miss. Hayward left at 11. I stayed till 12:20. After they left, other children came in and teachers till there were 126 children and 10 teachers. The chairs and tables were taken out and then they tried to teach them a motion play. The teachers were so slow and so cross and spoke so very loudly while the children were models of patience, endurance. Altogether I was much disappointed. The teacher told Miss Patterson that it was the first school of its kind in point of time.

Couldn’t get a tram so walked to the T. station where I got no. 14. Lay down after lunch - also finished a letter to Percy - then went with Miss Wood to an exhibition of the best of American artists in Rome.** It was very interesting and the school and grounds are charming. Met Dr. Edmiston and his wife in the car going out. Miss Wood was invited by Mr. Thomas, a young artist from Buffalo, N.Y.

A letter from Helen which I answered at once. She says Florence seems to have very little reserve strength.

*The school, La Casa dei Bambini, was located in the San Lorenzo district. It first opened in 1907.
**”International Exhibition of Futurism” in the Galleria Futurista took place in Rome in April and May, 1914 and included American artists, but this is not necessarily what she saw.
**Or it could be the American Academy in Rome, which has a School of Fine Arts and frequent exhibits

Walking in Rome on May Day: Doria Palace, Pincio and Borghese gardens

Today was cloudy and it was celebrated by no tram cars running and no taxis or carriages so you had to walk everywhere.

I went with Mrs. Haywood from Folkestone, Eng., a sweet faced woman to the Doria Palace to see the paintings there. We stopped at a church on the way and at the main post office (in an old monastery) on the way back. We must have walked three miles gone from 10-1.

Lay down after lunch and slept 1 1/4 hours, then got ready and went out with Mrs. Hayward, her friend Miss Patterson to walk in the Pincio and Borghese gardens* which were beautiful indeed. Saw magnolia, camphor, ilex, polonia, laburnum and lilac trees, locusts and acacias. It was very beautiful. Gone from 4 to 6:40. Very tired when I got back. Rested 15 minutes.



Went into the drawing room till 9:40. Finished my letter to Hazel and Percy.

*Villa Borghese is a large landscape garden in the naturalistic English manner in Rome, containing a number of buildings, museums and attractions. It is the second largest public park in Rome (80 hectares or 148 acres) after that of the Villa Doria Pamphili. The gardens were developed for the Villa Borghese Pinciana ("Borghese villa on the Pincian Hill").

The Pincio (the Pincian Hill of ancient Rome), in the south part of the park, offers one of the greatest views over Rome.

Rome: Montessori school and St. John Lateran Basilica

Felt quite tired so was late getting up and in dressing.

Decided to try to go to the Montessori Schools* so found out the direction to Via Poli where you have to go to get the ticket for admission. Got there but found the secretary was only in from 4-6. The young English girl to whom I gave the address got her card of entrance and went off without saying a word to me.

Then I looked at the shop windows, went to Pension Cargill and asked about rates for next winter, went to Cook’s and got a letter from Margaret and rode home in the no. 14 train. After lunch I asked Miss Wood what to do and she advised going to St. John L.*



I rested till 3 and started about 3:30, reached the church at end of train 16. Went all around the church and into the vault and to see the beautiful cloisters.



Then took the no. 8 car to Piazza Sylvestro [Piazza San Silvestro, A] and walked to Via Poli [B]. Saw the secretary, a pleasant man and am to get a permit for myself and two friends to visit “a poor school”, walked home up Via Corso Victor Emanuel [Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, C]. It was crowded so you had to walk in the street part of the time. Took me ¾ an hour to walk home.


View Larger Map

It rained this afternoon not very hard. Dressed for dinner and went into sitting room and read The Daily Graphic.

*Dr. Maria Montessori (1870-1952), the first female physician in Italy who was an Italian educator known for developing the Montessori method to teach young children. She introduced the method in Rome in 1907
**Probably St. John Lateran

Visiting the Roman Forum

Felt pretty tired after my trip of yesterday so had b’fast in bed and did not go down till 10. Then washed out my night dress and hung it out on the balcony to dry.

Had a talk with Miss Wood about rooms. It will cost from $55 to $60 a month here - two in a room - if we come here next winter - fully $60 with fire for you pay for your own fuel.

After lunch I started for the Forum to attend a lecture by Dr. Raymond. I was late in getting there so missed the lecture but wandered around the ruins for two hours and a half and with the aid of Baedeker understood the place fully well. A keeper showed me the new excavations for which I gave him four cents.



Was beguiled into buying two sets of Roman postcards for 85 cents.

Spent part of the evening in the living room talking to Miss Patterson.

Finished a silly old novel called Marriage by Miss Ferrier*, a distinct imitation of Evalina.

*Susan Edmonstone Ferrier, “Marriage,” 1818.

Sightseeing in Rome with AmEx

Got down to the American Exp. office before 9 a.m. Dr. Edmiston came soon after and the two others of the party - father and son named Mantz from the North Shore Drive, Chicago.

We drove first to St. Peters which I had studied by myself Sunday. We saw Peter’s grave and the gilt box above where the bishop’s robe is kept. Then to the Vatican where we saw what was best in the sculpture and in the Egyptian rooms and in the painting.


We went into the Borgia departments. The old man got pretty tired. I left them in the Piazza de Pietro and came back in No. 16 tram.

After lunch wrote to Florence and got ready and went to the Am. Ex. Office - where the carriage and the people soon appeared. We rode to the Coliseum but did not go in, passed the Baths of Caracalla, then along the Appian Way which is dusty and interesting.

We went down into the Catacombs of St. Callixtus, were there perhaps half an hour, very interesting to see the tiers of graves and the little chapels in the shape of a cross.


We carried candles in our hands and were a party of ten I guess. The old man did not go nor Dr. Edmiston. Coming back we stopped at St. Paul’s Outside the Walls which is a new and interesting church* with a beautiful old cloister.

Then we rode right back to the Am. Ex. Office. We did not go to the Doria picture gallery, nor to see the graves Keats and Shelley,** nor to the church of St. Sebastian, I suppose on account of the old man.

Met Mrs. Bell in the office and said goodbye to her again. I like my next neighbor at the table, Mrs. Haywood. The rest of the people are English and stiff. Had a letter from Florence*** which I answered at once about the apt. in Asolo. She says Helen has written to me twice in Naples. I did not receive either letter.

*Faithful reconstruction of 4th century basilica destroyed by fire in 1823.
**In Protestant cemetery, Cimitero Acattolico
***Florence Humphrey, her sister

Rome and Via Nomentana

Slept pretty well. Woke up early - dressed.

Had b’fast in my room and started off at 8:35 for the Am. Express Co. to go on the excursion if one was going. Got there before it opened.

Saw a Mrs. Carpenter who railed at the U.S. postal service. Said “It was rotten.”

Saw Mr. Edmiston, said no one had booked so far, but took my address and will send me word in case a party is formed. He gave me several addresses and showed me how to take no. 9 train to Via Nomentana.



Went to end of line. Sat down on the grass looking towards the mts. and wrote a postal to Margaret*. Came back and then went to Cook’s for letter from home - came back on No. 14.

Lay down before lunch. Finished The Princess Locked Book** by Mrs. Williamson. Then slept for two hours. Mended my clothes to change tomorrow. Ate a very hearty lunch. Not so much for dinner. At dinner had a pleasant chat with Mrs. Hayward who sat next to me. She invited me to go to the Doria gallery with her tomorrow and I shall be glad to if I don’t go with this Prof. Edmiston.

*Her daughter.
** “Princess Mary's Locked Book” by Mrs. C. N. Williamson published in 1912.