A busy day. Soon after breakfast Florence and I started out to look for my presents. Helen and Mrs. Addison started with us but they soon left. We had to go way down to the Via Roma before we found what we wanted but then we got all the presents but those for the children – for Elizabeth Young* – Jeannie Adams – the two at Gray Rocks – I bought a collar from Florence for Margaret and I have something for K.D.M.* Helen gave me a very pretty book with blank pages to write the children’s poems in – I gave her $2 to buy a silver spoon or a button hook. I gave Florence for a parting gift, a copy of the new Pompeian Flora I bought – 3 to give away – also an Italian dictionary and advanced grammar with key. After lunch F.B.H. washed her hair. I went out and bought toys for the two babies and then took a ride in the 3-horse minibus from one end to the other and return. It was along the Via Roma and was most interesting. Bought some crackers for the ship. My trunk came from the station, but not the corsets that I left to be cleaned. I have written the note to the Banca Credito Italiano asking to have the $200 transferred to the Bank of Italy in San Jose. Also a letter to Percy telling him about it and thanking him for the money, also to Margaret telling her what to do with my things in case I fail to reach Amherst.
*Possibly Hugh Young’s daughter. Hugh Young married the sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Thurston.
**Katherine Duncan Morse, sister in law of Margaret.
Wednesday, September 9
Tuesday, September 8
Last Look at Naples
I slept well. It was nearly nine before I went down to b’fast, but to my surprise found I was the first one there. Helen went to the boat to see about steamer chairs and the stewardess while Florence and I went to White Star Line to try to change our stateroom and also to secure seats at the table which we did – first table. Then we went to Am. Consulate and registered and Florence asked how she should get the rest of her money that is in the state dep’t after she returns to America. Everyone seems to be sailing on the Canopic.* About 450 they said at the consul’s.
After lunch, had a nap. Florence and I were going to San Martino and invited Helen and Mrs. Addison to go but they declined so we started alone. It was too late to go to San Martino as it closes at 4, so we went to Posillipo Cape – in tram No. 2. It was a beautiful drive overlooking the water. We came back in the same car and went to the Galleria Umberto Primo where we sat and watched the people and Florence treated me to an ice. Then we had to come back.
At dinner Florence held the 5 months old German baby. It is bright and cunning. At 9.15 the chambermaid brought a big pitcher of hot water and I washed my hair and chatted with Mrs. Addison. It is nearly midnight and it isn’t dry yet.
I had a nice letter from Hazel – No. 14. In it she said their old car had been acting so that they had bought a Cadillac self starter.** I am so glad.
*When war broke out in August of 1914, many of the great opera personalities of the time were in Europe. By late autumn, getting out of Europe wasn’t so easy. But the steamship would become known as “Opera’s Noah’s Ark” when stars such as Enrico Caruso, Geraldine Farrar, Antonio Scotti, conductor Arturo Toscanini, and theater manager Giulio Gatti-Casazza, among others, made their way from various points on the continent to return to North America. The Canopic passage is represented in Act II, Scene I of Visi d'Arti. (from history of Visi d'Arti.)
**The “self-starter” was introduced on Cadillac as standard equipment in 1912.
After lunch, had a nap. Florence and I were going to San Martino and invited Helen and Mrs. Addison to go but they declined so we started alone. It was too late to go to San Martino as it closes at 4, so we went to Posillipo Cape – in tram No. 2. It was a beautiful drive overlooking the water. We came back in the same car and went to the Galleria Umberto Primo where we sat and watched the people and Florence treated me to an ice. Then we had to come back.
At dinner Florence held the 5 months old German baby. It is bright and cunning. At 9.15 the chambermaid brought a big pitcher of hot water and I washed my hair and chatted with Mrs. Addison. It is nearly midnight and it isn’t dry yet.
I had a nice letter from Hazel – No. 14. In it she said their old car had been acting so that they had bought a Cadillac self starter.** I am so glad.
*When war broke out in August of 1914, many of the great opera personalities of the time were in Europe. By late autumn, getting out of Europe wasn’t so easy. But the steamship would become known as “Opera’s Noah’s Ark” when stars such as Enrico Caruso, Geraldine Farrar, Antonio Scotti, conductor Arturo Toscanini, and theater manager Giulio Gatti-Casazza, among others, made their way from various points on the continent to return to North America. The Canopic passage is represented in Act II, Scene I of Visi d'Arti. (from history of Visi d'Arti.)
**The “self-starter” was introduced on Cadillac as standard equipment in 1912.
Monday, September 7
Nativity of the Virgin
Slept pretty well. Mosquitoes bothered me. Soldiers are marching past. Did not have b’fast till nine o’clock so many little fussy things to do. I was the last one in the dining room. Then went to White Star Line and paid for the balance of the passage on Canopic for Florence, Helen and myself – and was pleased to know that it was 34 francs less than I thought. Met some people I knew at the Conte. Hunted up a place to have my corsets washed. Came home and sewed till lunch. Nothing I could eat at lunch so had two eggs. Then lay down for nearly three hours. I was so tired. Part of the time slept, part of the time Conan Doyle’s Round the Red Lamp. Went to the station to meet Florence, Helen, and Mrs. Addison. Found they had had a jolly time coming down. Florence and Helen went up in the carriage and I waited ¾ of an hour with Mrs. Addison for her trunk, but it had not come on the train so we had to leave without. Florence and Helen have front rooms – second floor.
We had a very poor dinner. Florence went out to see Mr. Muller about it - got no satisfaction. Said he was losing $60 a day – would soon close. There was a fiesta here tonight – the Nativity of the Virgin – and Helen and Mrs. Addison and I went to see it. We walked way up to the Toretta. It was principally observed by young men and boys blowing tin horns incessantly. Crowds were in the streets and there were multitudes of small stands where they sold everything ginger bread horses – all things of prepared food, first principally grapes and figs – tables with cactus fruit which must grow here very plentifully. – I saw a few pomegranates and quinces – horns of course – toys – dry goods and laces – everything exposed for sale. The crowd was good natured. There were the long curled up toys that straighten out when you blow and a young girl blew one twice at Helen and made her jump – which greatly amused them. Got the car home. It was 11.20 before we got in. I was so tired I slept – but I think the horns were going all night – as I could hear one once in a while.
We had a very poor dinner. Florence went out to see Mr. Muller about it - got no satisfaction. Said he was losing $60 a day – would soon close. There was a fiesta here tonight – the Nativity of the Virgin – and Helen and Mrs. Addison and I went to see it. We walked way up to the Toretta. It was principally observed by young men and boys blowing tin horns incessantly. Crowds were in the streets and there were multitudes of small stands where they sold everything ginger bread horses – all things of prepared food, first principally grapes and figs – tables with cactus fruit which must grow here very plentifully. – I saw a few pomegranates and quinces – horns of course – toys – dry goods and laces – everything exposed for sale. The crowd was good natured. There were the long curled up toys that straighten out when you blow and a young girl blew one twice at Helen and made her jump – which greatly amused them. Got the car home. It was 11.20 before we got in. I was so tired I slept – but I think the horns were going all night – as I could hear one once in a while.
Sunday, September 6
Sunday in Naples
I slept well, but am still tired. This precious hotel does not furnish hot water. Miss Wolff tried to quarrel with me over the war, but I wouldn’t argue. Honey for breakfast!!
At 10.20 started out to telegraph Florence and to go to the English church which I knew was near. Sent F. this telegram. “Come third. 20 minutes at Rome. Take corridor car. Be sure ticket has date stamped in lower corner.” Then started for church. Turned too soon and had to inquire and finally was escorted by a very nice Italian woman to a closed church where French and German services were held not to be opened until Oct. 1. Then I went back to the main street running along the park and found a girl who told me where the church was. I was 20 minutes late but I like to go to church. It does me good. Walked home going into a church on the way.
Took a nap after lunch. Then went out and took a long tram ride that the hotel clerk recommended – No. 6 – over the hill and along the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and returned the same way. Walked back from the Toretta along the water. It was beautiful.
After dinner wrote part of a letter to Percy and read some of an Italian paper by means of a dictionary, but was so tired I had to give up and go to bed.
At 10.20 started out to telegraph Florence and to go to the English church which I knew was near. Sent F. this telegram. “Come third. 20 minutes at Rome. Take corridor car. Be sure ticket has date stamped in lower corner.” Then started for church. Turned too soon and had to inquire and finally was escorted by a very nice Italian woman to a closed church where French and German services were held not to be opened until Oct. 1. Then I went back to the main street running along the park and found a girl who told me where the church was. I was 20 minutes late but I like to go to church. It does me good. Walked home going into a church on the way.
Took a nap after lunch. Then went out and took a long tram ride that the hotel clerk recommended – No. 6 – over the hill and along the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele and returned the same way. Walked back from the Toretta along the water. It was beautiful.
After dinner wrote part of a letter to Percy and read some of an Italian paper by means of a dictionary, but was so tired I had to give up and go to bed.
Saturday, September 5
Florence, Italy to Naples, Saturday Sept. 5th Alfred’s* birthday
Helen came down to my room at 5 but I was so tired I asked her to wait till 5.30. Dressed. Helen did up my steamer rug roll - and Florence my hats. Left about 6.40. Found Mrs. Zupponi at station. Went 3rd class – not very pleasant to Rome, but all right afterwards. Got into a corridor carriage. Ticket agent forgot to stamp date of departure from Florence and I had a great fuss with the conductor from Rome which half-spoiled my ride. He wanted me to pay 7 lire more and I wouldn’t. He got someone who looked like a Russian Jew to explain and I hunted up an Italian gentleman who spoke English. Finally they let the ticket pass by writing the necessary date re. It formed the chief topic of conversation in the compartment. A father and know-all son, nice young man, young Italian girl with 2 year old baby were the other occupants. Lost my hat pin.
Met a young woman at station in Naples and rode up to the Hotel Muller** with her. Her name is Miss Florence Wolff and she has been over 4 years next November and not only wears a chip on her shoulder, but they stick out all over her. We had a quarrel about the cab fare with the hotel clerk and she nearly fought with me over my share of that expense. Had dinner at 7.30 – only six people – a baby and a dog besides my self – a good room and a small glimpse of the sea. Very tired. Went to bed before ten.
*Alfred Winslow Hincks, her son, born September 5, 1880.
**Today there is a Hotel Muller at Via Sant'alessio 16 in Naples.
Met a young woman at station in Naples and rode up to the Hotel Muller** with her. Her name is Miss Florence Wolff and she has been over 4 years next November and not only wears a chip on her shoulder, but they stick out all over her. We had a quarrel about the cab fare with the hotel clerk and she nearly fought with me over my share of that expense. Had dinner at 7.30 – only six people – a baby and a dog besides my self – a good room and a small glimpse of the sea. Very tired. Went to bed before ten.
*Alfred Winslow Hincks, her son, born September 5, 1880.
**Today there is a Hotel Muller at Via Sant'alessio 16 in Naples.
Friday, September 4
More War News and More Shopping
A very busy day beginning at 5.45. The little milliner came at 8.45 with shapes for me to wear – also samples of velvet. Chose a shape and ordered the best black velvet – all at cost of 30 francs for the hat. It was brought this evening and is very pretty. Then I went out and bought some bread and cake for tomorrow’s lunch. Naomi sent back Marion’s lace, beautifully done. Mrs. Zupponi came and went to the bank with me and I drew $50 and deposited $200.
Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.
After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.
Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.
Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.
*Academia di Belle Arti
Then I went to the Belle Arti* and saw Botticelli’s Spring and also a picture, a funny old panel which much amused me. It was “the Nativity of Jesus Christ” by [blank] and was numbered. Came back after seeing “The Boy and the Cock” by [blank] . I sent a picture of it to Duncan.
After lunch went to the Femminile and saw a lot of lovely things and brought some home to show Florence and then went into the silk shop and ended by buying 7 silk blankets so now I have eight. Came back and finished packing my trunk. The trunks were not ready until after five and Helen and I went to the station and sent the off. Then I went to the tailor’s and tried on my suit. It is very nice and is to be sent home tomorrow. Then we all went to the Femminile and I bought 57 lire of things and Florence bought some and so did Helen. Then drove to Settipasse’s, but he was closed. Said goodbye to all in the house. Settled accounts with Florence after dinner. I have spent more than I meant to but that is all right.
Mr. and Mrs. Bragg and Helen and I went to the Palazzo Vittorio Emmanuelle and had ice cream. We had a very pleasant time. Got home at eleven and Helen helped me to finish packing.
Almost midnight, time to go to bed. Canopic is in, brought two American Cardinals who are too late to help choose the Pope. England is said to have won a victory and the Russians are winning over the Austrians. I am so glad.
*Academia di Belle Arti
Thursday, September 3
New Pope, Packing, Lace Shopping, and Sailing on the Arno
Spent the entire morning packing my trunk. I am going down on Saturday with the four trunks and Florence and Helen will remain here to see Mr. Smith settled here. Mrs. Addison called this morning.
After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.
After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.
A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.
After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.
After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.
A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.
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