Davanzati Palace, San Croce Church

I rang for breakfast at 8 and hot water at 9 or so. Mme. Crocini came in herself and was very pleasant. Studied my Italian and did not get dressed until late.

After lunch Helen took me to meet Florence at the Palace Davanzati. As we entered the elevator, Herbert Houghton stepped out. Said he was traveling with his friends and would stay a week. We were late meeting Florence and she was quite annoyed, but we went into the palace, Florence paying all expenses. Helen wouldn’t go, had been twice before. I think it is one of the most wonderful places I have seen. It is an old Florentine Palace fitted up in the manner in which they used to live in the 13th, 14th, & 15th centuries and all the furniture, tapestries, vases, dishes and ornaments are of those periods. The first floor belonged to the parents, then the second to the oldest son, the third floor to the second and each became simpler and plainer as you went up. I spent over two hours looking with the greatest interest and only left because the time for closing had arrived.

Then Florence took me down and we had ice-cream. She had invited the Bertolinis and the Gragginis to tea tomorrow so we went around and bought cakes re. Then she went back, but I went into the church of San Croce to see the procession of children. There were many in the church. I got a seat at the side but not in front of the altar.



I watched them light up the big chandeliers, holding 3 or 4 dozen candles. 37 of them. The church finally filled and the interesting procession began. A few hundred horsemen and a priest of fairly high rank, 4 very tall candlesticks, some little boys in white with red sashes, some little girls in white with red sashes and white veils and then multitudes of children holding a lighted candle or a spray of Easter lilies or both together with the parents leading out - holding their tiny infants sometimes. It was most interesting. They marched all the way around the church and then returned to the altar in the center of the church where the service went on and then the people began to go out and Helen and I left. We didn’t get home till after 8, could only eat soup and toast and milk, ought not to have eaten at all, as I was very, very tired.

Found letters from Margaret and Alfred. Alfred sent me $110, $50 being gift from Marion. He wants me to travel and will send me $100 more for that purpose. I wrote to them thanking them for his great kindness. Did not finish it. Had dyspepsia badly. Margaret is not at all well. She has been overworking. Had a request for back dues for Pacific Grove Museum*.

*Near Monterey, CA.

Noise, Shopping, Sightseeing in the Rain

There was so much noise on the street that I did not sleep after 4:30. Finally at 6:30 I sat up and wrote a letter to Marion asking about Edith. Got dressed and went up to breakfast with Helen. Afterwards Helen went out and I unpacked my trunk. Lay down for a while after lunch and fell asleep. Finished my letter to Marion. Helen and I went out and did a lot of errands.

Paid Dr. Dunn 80 francs but did not see him, gave my new address at French Lemon & Co., bought the English self–taught book for Elena* and went to the 48 centime store to see what it was like and bought some writing paper. Afterwards bought some better at another shop.

Helen and I went to see the house that Dante was born in.



Then we walked along through the queer narrow streets to the Palazzo Vecchio and I went through the underground part.



It looked so like rain that we hurried along, but it began to rain and we were caught and had to take refuge near the arched Lungarno. The rain slackened after a while and we walked home. I lay down half and hour before dinner. After dinner, Helen came into my room and talked and read while I sewed the blue slipper tops I knit into the soles. Helen made me some malted milk.

It is just pouring this very minute.

*See entry for June 5

Changing Pensions and Inspecting Riot Damage

Had breakfast in bed as usual. Heard the trains running.

Finished The Return of Sherlock Holmes.



Tried on my dress, the black and while dress that Florence gave me and that I am altering. Florence pinned the hem the right length and I basted the place.

Florence spoke to the directore and he said he would send the trunks down at 1.30 so finished packing my trunk and suitcase before going down to lunch. I said goodbye to all the people I knew and wrote an “approbation” in the Le Lune book. Paid my bill and left about 2 P.M. Helen came up about eleven to see if I were coming down. She then decided to come to the Pensione Crocini herself.

Florence came with me and on the way we stopped at Marmies’s and saw the wonderful ceiling. Also the windows the mob broke yesterday, also the street lights everywhere that they had smashed. We stopped and had ice cream and cake - cost 14 cents apiece.

Then went to the Crocini and found my trunk had arrived. Looked at several rooms and picked out the largest. Then Helen arrived, bag and baggage. She brought over some of the things I had left with her. We all went in to see Mrs. Hubbell. Then went to the Montebello for my plant and some things we had left there. Helen left a lot of things she did not want. We brought over flowers, books, magazines, etc. Florence packed my black winter hat in her trunk also my steamer hat, new pair of shoes, rubbers and heavy winter dress. Then I went back to Le Lune and we came to the Crocini. I unpacked lots of things. We had a good dinner. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room a few minutes. Worked over my room till nearly eleven. Ordered a can of hot water. I like the Hubbell family very much.

More Demonstrations and Rioting

Florence Wednesday June 10th, 1914

It rained a great deal today. Not a train was running nor carriage moving so I could not go to the Pensione Crocini where I was going yesterday*. Spent almost all day altering the dress from Florence - she would pin and I would sew. About four I was so sleepy I lay down and had a long nap. Spent part of the evening in the drawing room talking to Mrs. Rolland, to Mrs. Cochran. Miss French lent us Conan Doyle’s Return of Sherlock Holmes and I read a lot of the stories before and I lent to all.

All this day there was rioting in Florence, window smashing and light breaking., stone throwing. No trains nor trams running. No mail delivery. We heard all sorts of rumors that Marmie’s had had his place injured $20,000, but it was not so. The windows were broken but no lace stolen. We heard 41 officers were killed and a lot of people but that turned out to be grossly exaggerated. Soldiers were injured but none killed.

*Part of socialist demonstrations and riots in June 1914, prompted partly by resistance to conscription. See June 9th footnote.

Strike and Rain

Rained all night. I slept pretty well but woke up with a feeling of distress. Went in to see Florence and sat with her while she ate her breakfast. Then came back and had mine and ate some stewed cherries. Ate macaroni and bread and milk for lunch and bread and milk for supper. Had some distress all day from the caramels and cake I ate yesterday. A foolish thing to do.

The directore sent up word to know if I was going and F. and I went down to see him. He said there was a strike against the government and no trains were running and you could not hire any carriage and the horse belonging to the house was sick so he could not send me down.* As it was raining and I felt punk I did not care.

Tried on the black and white dress that Florence gave me and she pinned the lace on for a collar and I sewed it on and began to crochet a little finishing edge on the strips that go down the front. She also pinned the back seam so as to take away the fullness and it looks much better. I worked on it all the afternoon while Florence put new corners into the contadino veil.

I did not go down to dinner. Had bread and milk in F’s room.

I read Uncle Hugh’s fourth installment aloud while she was fixing her ears. Then we played a game of Sequence and she beat. Played till after eleven. Then I brought her alcohol lamp into my room and heated some hot water to drink and some for a hot water bottle. Had a nice note from Uncle Hugh and his fourth installment of his story and I find it most interesting.

Had a letter from Percy enclosing $40 till Dec. 1. Also telling me about the furniture and offering to store it in his garage and also that he was not feeling well for which I am most sorry. A nice letter from Hazel telling about the new house and the furniture. She sent it to Margaret first.

*During this week there was a lot of social unrest in Italy as radicals of all kinds were extremely vocal, resisting taxation, demanding wage increases, and opposing militarism. On June 7, 1914, popular uprisings ("Red Week") began in the Marches and Romagna, with rebellious landless laborers confronting strike breakers hired by local landowners.

Low Spirits

After I fell asleep, I slept pretty well. I was very tired when I woke up and I suppose I should have stayed in bed, but I got up and dressed, got talking with Florence about P.W., money - income re.re. Looked over my things and packed my trunk. Took me all the afternoon and I felt tired. I did not pack at all well. I mean to get as few things as possible.

Florence went down town and bought a very pretty little tea kettle.

They had a big dinner here for a club of 45 men. The table looked very pretty.

After dinner the Oudersluys came in and showed us some things they had bought and postals. Told us about Holland. I would like to go there. Then I played a game of Sequence with Florence. Beat her.

I feel millions of years old, tired and half sick and not very happy. My eyes are bothering me too and I supposed I ought not to use them. I was too old to come to Europe.

Military Review at the Caserne

Rained in the night. The Italians’ Fourth of July. I woke up at 6:10 and dressed and was ready before seven, went into F’s [Florence's] room and found her in bed. She was afraid to go after the rain. Went out, found Elina who said the rain was to be at 9 a.m. I ordered b’fast. F.B.H. had hers in my room in my bed. I got ready taking my medicine bag with me. And went to get Helen, found her dressed, left my bag there to take to the new place on Tuesday. She had paid and we started for the Caserne to see the Review which we heard was to be at 10.

Streets were filled with people with highly colored dresses and we saw companies of soldiers as we walked on in the Park finding all the fences along the race course turned into impromptu grandstands with benches or chairs on them to rent, but all were taken. Finally we walked up to the real grandstand where admittance was 2 L. I was going to pay when an Italian gentleman took us through on his ticket. I bought two Santa Croce pins for Helen and me. Then as the grandstand was filled, we found places by the procession front where we could look over the heads of those in front.

We saw a big green field filled with companies of infantry and cavalry, so many soldiers or officers on horseback in gorgeous uniforms, the Commanding General and his aides. He rode up and down five times and appeared to be inspecting the different companies and then something went on in the center that we couldn’t see but all the people who were standing went across the fields and stood near the general and his staff. After half an hour or so, we went over too and got a place in the second roof where we could see well. The General and his aides rode back and wheeled around, not far from us, 4 officers, one with gorgeous epaulets and 3 lieutenants - 2 I should judge-stood by the General who was on horseback and one private stood out about 10 ft.- and faced all the infantry review.

Then all the regiments passed in review, saluting and being saluted by the general infantry, Red Cross, bicycle, motor cycle cavalry. It was a brilliant spectacle.

We turned up the Park to take a tram and passed a field where there were lots of tents with the Red Cross on them. We went all through them and were intensely interested in them. Saw the men working. Just missed a car and had to wait 20 minutes. Just caught a Fiesole car. Terribly crowded.

Got back at 1:50 and had lunch. Came up and told F. all about it. Then went in to lie down. I slept an hour. We were to go to Fiesole but I was too tired to do it. So sat in her room and watched her pack the trunk she is to put in storage. She showed me lots of her pretty things. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter Hortense* came in and sat a long time.

Spent the evening talking together and watching the illumination of the Tower of Vecchio Palace. Tried to write to the family, but I was too sleepy.

*Hortense Oudesluys was born Dec. 1893 and died on Oct. 31, 1992 according to the US census. In the 1916 “Biological Bulletin” put out by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, MA., she is mentioned as a teacher at Western High School, Baltimore, Maryland.

Cinemattograph

It did rain about 9 so I gave up my trip to Florence where I was going to spend the day with Helen. I had breakfast in bed. However it cleared off at 10 so I made up my mind to go. Dressed and got to the Montebello to find Helen. Waited an hour reading the papers. Helen came in at one and we decided to have lunch there instead of going to that queer place under a palace.

Then we went to the Pension Crocini* and I engaged a room at 6 frs., 2 frs. extra for light, beginning next Tuesday. Then we went to a store to look at some dresses and didn’t like them and we wandered around the shops, finally ending at the Cinemattograph. It was called “La Tormenota” .We had to wait outside till the end of the act and then went in and saw the whole thing which took two hours. People leaving and entering every 10 minutes or so. It was a highly dramatic, sensational and emotional melo-drama, but I enjoyed it, the novelty of the situation immensely. Helen walked down to the car with me.

Got home before the first bell rang for dinner.

Played Sequence with Florence after dinner and beat her.

Had a very lengthy letter from Percy about that wretched old furniture situation enclosing exchange of letters between Florence, Hazel, and Percy. I am so sorry that there is this tensity of feeling between them.

*In the 1928 Baedeker, pg. 169, Pensione Crocini is at Lung Arno Guicciardini 9. As well it is listed in Artistic Guide to Florence (1910) on the Lung Arno Guicciardini.

Hat shopping, dentist, & Montebello

Did not get to bed till midnight, but slept better. Had breakfast in bed, also half a cup of cherry and apple that Florence cooked in her room. Studied Italian till 10. Dressed -finished my black dress - I always make my bed and pick up my room to help Elena. Got ready to go down town with Florence.

We did not start till 2:30 and missed a car, walked to San Gervasio. Went to bank and Florence lent me $20. Went to milliner to see the Pomeranian Pug. It looked very well indeed. Added a bunch of flowers on the side and paid $2.50. She turned the hat inside out and varnished it.

Went to Dr. Dunn's but I could not see him. It was too late.

Then went over to the Montebello and found Helen in. She looks badly and said she had a pain in her side. She had some delicious coffee and cream and bread and butter and cake. Then went down and got my hat, also cups for a maid, and a pair of gloves. Helen walked to car with me. Walked up from San Gervasio.

In the evening played Sequence and beat Florence. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter came in for a while. They showed us some of the pretty things they had bought. Florence is feeling better. Dr. G. wants her to go to San Pellegrino to the baths there.

Postal from Margaret. Our English paper has come!!!

Fiesole and San Girolamo Monastery

I did not sleep at all well last night. Finally at 5:45 I sat up and wrote a long letter to Uncle Hugh about ourselves and about his 3rd manuscript which we received about two weeks or more ago.

Finished my letter about 8 and took it into Florence's B.R. to read and then came back and slept for 3 good hours. Got up just in time for lunch. After lunch studied Italian awhile and got ready to go to Fiesole.

We got there at 4 and went into the straw shop to look around and then we went to the monastery of San Girolamo where the Blue Nuns live. I was just fascinated with the place. It was so beautiful and the acting Mother Superior, Mother Martha, said we could go all over the place and have tea and go into the chapel and see St. Florina, the Martyr who died when he was twelve years old.

We went all over and I was delighted with it. We had tea with thin slices of bread and butter and Sister G. took us over the house to see the cells they made into rooms for boarders.* We said we would stay to Benediction, the evening service at 6 o’clock.

While we were waiting who should come along but Helen with a Mrs. Fisher, a boarder at the Montebello who was very pleasant. They soon went in and we went into the service which was beautiful with the sweet voices of the sisters singing the chants.

We saw the waxen form of the martyr and after the service walked down a steep road to San Domenico** where we took the car for Le Lune. We had dinner out of doors. After dinner we had a game of Sequence and I beat.

It was a beautiful day. Florence paid all the expenses of the trip and gave me four beautiful postcards of the convent and a pamphlet about it with views of the walks re.

*The Blue Nuns until the 1980's ran a guest house at the monastery.
**The little hamlet of San Domenico di Fiesole (148m/486ft above sea level) is only about half a mile southwest of Fiesole and right on the boundary of Florence, with a panoramic view of the city. Its San Domenico Church (1406-1435; rebuilt in the 17th century) has a richly furnished interior, with a beautiful altarpiece by Fra Angelico (c. 1430) in the first chapel on the left.

Looking for new lodgings again

Went to bed last night about one, so slept over and did not wake up till 8:30. F. B. H. came in to my room, asked me if I would like to walk over to the Pestellini to see the manager and see when she could get in, so I hurried and had b’fast and dressed. Helen came in just as I was ready. She brought up her Italian grammar for me. Then we three walked over to the Pestellini. Said she would let F. come just as soon as she had a vacant room. I thought the place was a beautiful one. Helen did not go in, but went back to town. She said they sent the hat up and she took it. We walked back to the Le Lune.

After lunch F.B.H. lay down and I talked to her and finished knitting my blue slippers – one of those I did three times. And I had to rip out lots of places. At 3:45 we took our work and went out and sat under the trees. The Baltimore lady and her daughter sat with us. Mrs. Oudesluys read aloud from The Beauty of the Sting while the rest of us sewed. I put the ribbon on the bottom of my black silk dress and hemmed it where it had been let down. It took me four hours to do.

Miss Hannay lent us her London paper telling about the terrible disaster. It was so needless.

After dinner we came upstairs and Mrs. O. read the paper while I sewed and Florence ripped a flower out that she had made in the contadino veil she wants to send Mollie.

Yesterday I met one of the Princess Irene’s passengers, the one from Denver, Colorado who always wore a blue veil. They have been to Greece and Constantinople. She said they had had a delightful trip. They had met Miss Witt and Miss Peet a number of times since they had left the ship. A nice letter from Margaret. Read Uncle Hugh’s* manuscript over the second time. It is the third section.

*Hugh Young (b. 1830) was married to Anne Carolyn Thurston who was the younger sister of Jennie’s father, Richard Bowers Thurston. He was writing his autobiography.

Shopping in Florence

No letter from any of the children.

Had b’fast in bed and studied my Italian while doing so, washed my stockings and gloves re - Florence came in and pinned my black silk dress where it ought to be to hang straight. The English Type - the mother with a cap and her daughter, left this morning, also the German family - the woman who was so horrid to her little girl.

Florence and I went downtown. I carried down my plant and a lot of medicines to the Montebello to make it easier when I come to move. Then Helen and I went back to Munsterberg, the druggist, where we met Florence. She went back with me to the milliner’s but she did not have my feathers ready. She thinks she can fix my old one by turning the inside out which is not faded and facing the faded part with blue silk.

Then we went to the new market and bought some filel lace to go with the dress F. has given me and some Cluny* edging and insertions because it was cheap. Florence brought a trunk for $16.60 - a steamer trunk.

We did not go to look at the rooms. Helen seemed to be possessed to have me go to the Jennings Riccioli** instead of to the one where the Hubbells are. Florence was tired and had to go back while I went around to try to find a book from which Elena could learn English.

Then Helen saw a hat in the window and liked it. It was $4. Helen got her to take 3.60 and paid for it, and then suddenly remembered that other hat that she had ordered from the little milliner and wanted her money back which the other would not give. Helen got mad and threatened her with the American consul, but the girl would not give in. Finally she went off without the money or the hat either. I said I thought she would have trouble but she would not listen.

I spoke French for they could not understand each other, caught the 6:40 tram for the house. After dinner taught the Oudesluys to play Sequence. Miss Pete’s people are not going to leave so F. can’t go.

*Cluny lace-lace made from coarse thread used to edge household linens
**Jennings-Riccioli, nº 2 de Lungarno delle Grazie, was the model for the fictional Pensione Bertolini in Forester’s “A Room with a View.”

Trip to Fiesole (2)

Woke up at 7:45, but felt pretty tired so did not get right up. However, soon called for hot water, took my bath, and had breakfast with half a cup of F.’s stewed cherries. Before I was dressed, my Italian teacher came and I spent two hours working as hard as I could. Paid her 5 fr. for two double lessons and carfare.

After lunch, finished my letter to Margaret, a sort of family letter. Then Florence and I got ready and started for Fiesole. We went into the cathedral* first of all and looked around. We found it was a fiesta, prayers to get sent out of purgatory with a procession, so we decided to stay and see it.


First though we went to see a house that Florence very much admires belonging to some old Italians. They are very poor, but they own this place and rent it for $25 a month - 4 bedrooms upstairs, two living rooms down, and a beautiful garden and a glorious view. We saw two of the old women.

Then we went back to the church. Some kind of a service was going on in the choir but the people paid no attention to it, but wandered in and out at their own sweet will, old women and young, old men and young boys, girls, babies, even dogs.

Finally it was nearing the time for the procession and people came in and used the church as a dressing room all the time the service was going on.

They began to leave the church crowding into the open square. We went too and went on the grass in front of the archbishop’s where we watched the procession form**, march, turn, and march back into the cathedral again. It was certainly a medieval sight. It was very, very interesting, the elevation of the host, the walking of the archbishop under the canopy held by 6 priests.

The piazza was filled with life, light, color and music. I felt as if I were taking part in a musical opera.

After they had all gone into the church, F. and I took the next car back to the pension. Leaving Fiesole at 7. Miss Hannay lent us her London paper and we read all about the disaster to the Empress of Ireland. It was right in the mouth of the St. Lawrence.

* Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus of Fiesole, is Romanesque.
**Probably for Pentecost as that was the date for Pentecost in 1914.

Sunday service at the American Church

Was dressed before I rang for breakfast.

Left the house at 9:45 and went to the Duomo and walked from there to the Pros. Ch at the Lung. Am.* I met Helen and we went into the church. We stayed to the Communion Service. I enjoyed both services very much.

Got home at half past one and had my lunch. I intended to go down to the Pros. Church at 5 to hear the pastor, Rev. James Blake, give a talk on the portraits, self-painted, of distinguished artists but it poured so I did not dare to go.

Instead I wrote a twelve page letter to Margaret and told all about the cricket festival on Ascension Day, May 21st. Sat talking down stairs for awhile after dinner before coming up and sat in F.’s room, cooking cherries.

Mrs. Oudesluys from Baltimore came in and talked a long time and gave F. lots of addresses in Munich.

Sat up writing my family letter till midnight. Asked M. to send the letter on to California.

*St. James Church, Protestant and English, and on Via Bernardo Rucellai near the Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci.

Trip to Fiesole

Woke up a little before eight. Breakfast in bed at nine. Studied the Italian grammar most diligently for an hour or more.

Washed some pieces. Mended stockings. Then went into F.’s room to work on my black silk dress. The skirt does not hang evenly. I tried it on. Florence changed it a little and I sewed it again.

Helen came up and we went to Fiesole, Florence, Helen and I. We went into the Cathedral and then into the Greek theater and the old baths. Florence took me in, a franc apiece. I saw the old Etruscan wall and we wandered all over the ruins.


The theatre has a wonderful situation looking out on the hills of Florence. We saw the ivory admission ticket that was given to the gladiator Euporus 62 B.C. after he had won 15 times, to admit him to a seat in the theatre. It was given to him by the Roman Consul. We spent a most interesting afternoon looking at the museum, theatre, etc. Helen had seen it several times and wouldn’t go in.

We met a Mrs. Hubbell w. her sister and daughter from California. It began to sprinkle so we came back to the Luné while Helen went home. The Directore told us of the dreadful news of the sinking of the Empress of Ireland yesterday morning and many people drowned. It was in the Italian paper. It positively makes me sick.*

It rained hard. Played Sequence with Florence and she beat me dreadfully.

*In the early morning hours of May 29, 1914, the Canadian Pacific ocean liner Empress of Ireland was cruising the St. Lawrence, headed for Liverpool. Travelling the opposite way was the Norwegian collier Storstad, weighed down by a full load of coal. Each ship had spotted the other, but a sudden fog obscured both. A collision sank the Empress of Ireland in just 14 minutes with more than 1000 passengers losing their lives.

First Italian lesson, hats, and sightseeing in Florence

Woke up quite early, had my bath, and rang for breakfast by eight. The breakfast had not come so had to wait. Read my French book a while. Was dressed by ten and went into F’s room. She is feeling somewhat better. Helen called me up on the telephone and I said we were going down today.

Signorina Bianca Carli came before F. was dressed so I went down and talked to her in French and began my first lesson in Italian. Florence did not take. I read the words over and we talked a little until twelve o’clock.

Florence went right down to the doctor’s after lunch, but I was not ready. Missed a car so was late in meeting Helen at Dr. Dunn’s. There were six ahead so I did not wait.

Helen took me to her milliner’s. She is going to fix my feathers and perhaps my hat by trimming it so I can wear it this summer.

Then we went down to the Duomo and took No. 8 to the end of the line, Piazza Michelangelo. I was so tired I could not go to see the two churches so we sat there and rested there, looked at the statue of David by Michelangelo and at the wonderful view of Florence and then came back to the Duomo where I took the car for the Luné.


After dinner, Florence stewed cherries and taught me Italian while I knit. Then we played Sequence and F. beat me all to pieces. Florence likes Dr. Ginguioli. He wants her to go to the Pestellini* as soon as she can. He thinks he can help her very much.

* Nigel Nicolson in “A Portrait of a Marriage”, describes his mother, Vita’s stay there in 1908 on her first visit to Florence: “They stayed at the Villa Pestellini, an ochre-coloured house with loggias and terraces and a cottage in the garden, and descended each day to the city…” In 1912, she went with Rosamund to Florence and stayed in the cottage at the Villa Pestellini.

Sewing, walking, and card games

Breakfast in bed. It rained a little in the morning and looked so cloudy at lunch that we decided to give up going to the city. Tried to call up Helen on the telephone and could not get the Montebello so wrote her a postal.

Had a nice letter from Hazel and a note from Percy, also four cunning pictures of John. Hazel said they were going to send me $40 next month but it is not owing me till August. She also said she was not satisfied with Percy’s condition.

Received also a nice letter from Alfred. Wrote a letter to Hazel about the money.

Florence made some hot tea and I went in and took my sewing. Then we went out and took a beautiful walk through the hanging vines along the Via Barbacane.


Stayed downstairs in the salon for a while after dinner then came up and played Sequence with Florence and she beat me.

Restful day in the Pensione in Florence

Weather has cleared off.

I had breakfast in bed and read my French a while and then I was sleepy and took a nap, so that Helen and Florence came in and found me.

Florence went down and called up Miss Petus and found she could not get in there till June 4th so she has decided to stay here and I shall stay as long as she does.

Helen is very far from well. She has also mucous colitis just as Florence says and I am trying to get her to go to see the doctor, but she wants to wait and consult an American woman doctor who is coming to Florence next month. She ought to have special food. I do not think she will go to the new pension with me as we had planned. She left when our lunch bell rang.

After lunch Florence and I took our sewing and went out into the garden to sit. Florence had the long chair which the invalid usually has. I did a lot of mending while Florence was working on one of her contadini* veils repairing it. Then I came upstairs and wrote a long letter to Percy and Hazel.

After dinner we sat in the salon a while then I came up to write my diary.

*peasant

Rainy day in the Pensione

It poured all day long without cessation.

Paid my bill. Wrote to Margaret and to Alfred. Sat with Florence in the afternoon and mended. She made some hot tea which tasted very good for it was hot and the weather is so cold and depressing.

We played Sequence in the evening. I beat a game of 100 and Florence one of 50. We sat up till eleven. After that I looked over that silly book, The Visits of Elizabeth* till after midnight.

Had a nice letter from Florence. She is going to Oregon with Tommy.** I am glad.

Told the Directore that we were going to leave.

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Morse, my twin.***

*Published in 1901 by Elinor Gwyn: “British author Elinor Glyn (1864-1943) wrote a number of novels, many featuring strong female characters in sexually charged situations. The most scandalous was Three Weeks, which nearly ended Glyn's career. Later in her career she was lured to Hollywood to write screenplays, one of which originated the idea of the "It Girl." She also directed two unsuccessful films.” Encyclopedia of World Biography
.**Referring to Jennie’s daughter, Florence, and husband, Tommy Sanford
***Mrs. Morse is her daughter Margeret’s mother-in-law.

Rainy day while looking for new lodgings

Rained all the afternoon. I did not sleep well, did not wake early, had no breakfast, took my bath, washed my hair and a few things.

I went in to see Florence and found her perfectly discouraged about herself. I advised her to see a different doctor and to try to get some help which I believed would be through diet and not through medicine. So she went down and got the manager to call up Dr. Toti who recommends a Dr. Giglioli near the Montebello.*

This afternoon right after lunch we went down to his office and he was most encouraging. He said they had found new remedies for this mucous colitis and that it was controlled by diet more than by medicine but he said she ought to go to some place where she would have just the right kind of cooking and he mentions the Montebello and a Miss Peters.

He also gave her tiny doses of castor oil and salol** to take every two hours and a dessert spoonful of Laxative Vaseline every night. I like the doctor very much and I am sure she is going to be better.

It rained and we took a carriage to the Montebello where we found Helen who made us some delicious coffee with cream, bread and butter and cake, very nice. We talked over places and I made up my mind to try to go to some place for 6 or 7 francs than to try to get into the Montebello for eight, so Helen and I went to a pension in the Arno and I looked at rooms, good for 6 fr., very good for 7, good cooking and all. I think we shall go there together but it depends on what Florence can do. We may go to Lausanne, later on.

It was raining hard so we took a cab back to the Montebello and then further to the Fiesole tram for F. and me. The rain came in the top of the car and I got wet. Changed all my things when I got back. Had dinner, cup of hot milk, an egg, soup, beans, dessert -strawberries with white white. Some new people have come here.

*Hotel Montebello, Via Curtatone 2.
**Phenyl salicylate, or salol, is a chemical substance, introduced in 1886 by Marceli Nencki of Basel. It can be created by heating salicylic acid with phenol. It has been used as an intestinal antiseptic based on the antibacterial activity upon hydrolysis in the small intestine.