Packing and Feeding the Fish

I was tired and had b’fast in bed as I always do – studied my Italian – Then washed my hair – As it was drying, Helen sent word that Dr. Giglioli was here, so I put it up as well as I could, put on my wrapper and went up to H’s room. He said he thought Helen was better and would be all right in a month.

I went down and looked over my things and divided those I wanted to leave in my trunk from those I wanted to take. Worked till almost 5 – them went to Munsterman’s, the druggist’s, and met Helen and we went around and did a lot of errands.

I bought gloves and a silver spoon as I had lost my old one. Left new address at Am. Exp. Co. and found 4 letters there from Percy, Alfred, Florence Sanford and Marion. Edith is better – I am so glad.

Carried out two packages of stale bread to feed the fishes in the Boboli Gardens, but it took us so long to do our errands that the gardens were closed. I was determined not to carry the bread home so I dropped one package in the Lungarno under the arches – first looking to see that no one saw me and gave the other to an old woman with 20 centimes and I know she thought I was crazy – got lost and wandered all over everywhere trying to find the Via Tornabuoni.

Bought the Fanciulla and sent it to Duncan for his birthday. Came back tired out. Made Miss Kinney and Helen laugh till they cried over the adventure of the old woman and “il pane vecchio.”

After dinner paid my bill and then Mrs. Hubbell, Mrs. Turner, Miss Kinney and I all went into Helen’s room and had a jolly time.

??? is going to have a baby Christmas.

A Fete Day

Did not feel as tired as I expected so went with Helen and Mrs. Moore to the Duomo to see the service. We could not get very near but it was gorgeous with the archbishop and all his riches. I thought it was the adoration of the archbishop. We hung over the choir railing and I saw them go out. Then we went around and waited to see the time strike a circle on a brass plate in the left transept.* I think it passed above it.

Came back. After lunch had a good sleep for over an hour. Florence Humphrey came and we went out. Did a few errands and when we went to Piazza Victor Emmanuele and saw Helen and Miss Kinney there and we sat down and had ice cream and cafes and Florence fed four children and an old man. I walked almost back with Florence when she said she must go and so she went back to the Duomo. I wanted her to go to the Pension Crocini and look at the rooms for next winter.



Signora Crocini said the Duomo would be illuminated at 9 – the only day in the year it is done and said we could see it here. We waited till 9.30 and then Mrs. Moore, Miss Kinney and I started. We got to Piazza V.E. and the Duomo with red lights and fireworks on it so then we tried to walk there, but we got into an awful jam so we came back, listened to two pieces of music and came back in the cars. Mrs. Moore and Miss Kinney came back about 15 minutes before us.

Went to Mrs. Hubbell’s room and got telling stories, laughing and it was 11.40 before I left and one o’clock before I got to bed.

*Probably the huge mechanical clock decorated by Paolo Uccello

Florence to Pisa and Return

Was up before seven. Helen had breakfast with me in my room. Started at 8:30 for train with field glass, opera glass, parasol, Baedeker, phrase book, coat – and lunch. Helen went with us but left at the entrance when she found she had left her watch under her pillow. Went in, found that Cook’s man had made a mistake and that the train went at 8:45, not at 9:30. We were ten minutes too late – another train went at 12:00. We went to Cook’s but they denied they had made a mistake. We went home and I wrote 4 postals. We took No. 4 train when we went back – got outside seats by the window – a young Italian girl was on the train. I tried to talk with her. Met a young English woman on the train and asked her if she would like to ride up in carriage with us and share experiences. She stayed with us all the afternoon. She was very pleasant. We ate lunch on the train.



Went first to Duomo – then Battisterio*, then Campo Santa and then the Leaning Tower. We saw two babies being christened. There was an old crenulated wall running along aside the Battisterio with a lion at the corner. A tower in one part of the wall. The buildings stood in a great deal of green grass which made a beautiful background. The Campo Santo was most interesting. The frescoes on the wall of Death Triumphant, the Last Judgment and Hell were powerful – crude and most interesting. We looked at the tombs and monuments, then to the Tower. We climbed to the place where the bells were and the English lady went to the top. I am sorry I didn’t. Came down and went into the Battisterio and the guard gave a number of notes that awoke a marvelous echo. He did it several times – it sounded like the chords struck on an organ. Bought some postcards.

Got down in good time for the train – a young soldier was opposite us and I tried to get him to tell me about the line solders at the review but I couldn’t make him understand. It was a beautiful ride home. Got back at 8:40. Had dinner. Gave Maria a franc between us. Helen was moved to a quieter room upstairs.

* The Baptistry of St. John

Shopping and Fiesole Visit

Slept well. Breakfast in bed as usual. I was ready for Signorina Carli when she came and we spent our time in talking. She says I have improved and I know I have.

Then I went to Am. Express and cashed my draft for $110 and got my Kodak prints of the film Pen gave me – and went to a secondhand book store for an Italian dictionary, but they did not have any, so I came back to Via Torna Buoni and bought one - the Tauchnitz*.

After lunch lay down awhile and fell asleep – dressed and went to Fiesole, got there at 4:40. Found Mme. Grazzini going there and her daughter and Mr. Schmidt and a Mr. Hahn, nice fellows, both artists. We had a pretty table with ice cream and cake, very nice. I talked villainous French with Signora Grazzini and we had a jolly time. Did not leave till after seven. On the tram, we discovered that we had left Mrs. Moore’s address book so we telephoned to Florence about it which made us very late to dinner. Mme. Crocini waited on us herself. I like Maria, the older woman who waits on the table, but not the others.

Came down to my room right after dinner. I had letters from Florence, Alfred, Katharine** and Percy today. Also a note from the pension [Flora} at Siena saying they could take us.

Did not sleep well owing to the chocolate cake I ate. Was up at two drinking peppermint tea and studying Italian.

*The name of a very old esteemed German publishing house which specialized in dictionaries. Bibles and Greek and Roman classics.
**Probably Katharine Duncan Morse, Margaret's sister-in-law whom Jennie would have known from her stay in Amherst.

Presbyterian Church, Boboli Gardens, and Church of San Felice

Helen and I had breakfast in her room together – eggs and honey and a good time. Then we got dressed and went to Pres.[byterian] Church and stayed to Communion. Came home and arranged to have Miss Kinney sit at our table. She was glad to come and she is so nice we were glad to have her. Helen lay down and I finished my letter to Margaret.

Then Helen, Miss Kinney and I walked up to the Boboli gardens. We found them closed except the lower part where we found a fete going on in aid of some school. We paid 20 centimes a piece to get in and walked around the beautiful walks between hedges 20 ft. high. We saw the pretty pond full of gold fish. We sat and talked a long time.



On the way we passed a church of San Felice. We looked in and saw they were to have a procession around the church and a Te Deum and religious service at 6:30 so we stopped here on the way back and saw them light the candles on the altars and in the candelabra and saw the children standing in rows down the center each with a candle in its tiny hand. The service went on at the altar and the preparations went in the church but I had to leave to get back to dinner in time. I was very sorry because it is such a pretty sight to have the children march with their lighted candles. Helen was tired but she wouldn’t go home. She is frail but has tremendous will power.

After dinner we went into the Hubbell’s room for a few minutes and then into Miss Kinney’s to see her scarabs – the beads she bought in Egypt.

Italian lesson, Doctors' Visits, and San Lorenzo

I read Margaret's dear letter over before breakfast and then studied the Italian as usual. It seems as if I could never get the pronunciation.

I went in to assure Helen that I was ready when the doctor came – then came back to pick up my room. At eleven I went in with the new sack that Helen had given me to crochet – that was half-finished and waited until he came. He gave her a thorough examination and said there was nothing organically wrong but that she needed building up and rest and gave a tonic re and Sanotogen.*

Helen came to lunch. Afterwards we went to Dr. Giglioli’s** where I met Florence. There were several ahead of her – finally we walked to the Bargello and were amazed to be told that there were only ten minutes before the closing hour – so we went to San Lorenzo and saw the tombs of the Medici. The inlaid arms of the different cities of Tuscany in marble mosaic were wonderfully beautiful.



We stayed in the chapels and church till nearly six and then went down to the Duomo – where Florence caught the car for Le Lune. I walked back and bought some blue cornflowers for Helen and myself.

I wrote a note to the new pension Flora in Siena***wishing to go there next Friday at 6 frs. And posted it before dinner. Mr. Agnew – a young architect from Duluth – came and stayed an hour in Helen’s room chatting. He is very nice. I told him about Dr. Grazzini’s place. I went to my room to write, but came in and I was tired and just read a paper and went to bed.

*Sanotogen was made as a tonic wine or a protein supplement.
**The 1913 Baedecker mentions a Dr. Giglioli in Florence, Via Ferruccio 5 (speaks English);
***Probably located at Passeggio della Lizza 5

Counselling Helen, Going to the Movies and Italian Lesson

I had an egg and honey for breakfast and felt better all day. Had some little trouble about getting my hot water but finally got dressed by ten.

Helen came in, and she looked blue and depressed. I was going to finish a letter I had begun to Percy, but I invited her in to my room – and we talked and talked and talked. She really wants to stay abroad, but she said she was afraid of being a burden and of being of a party and not in it re re which shows really a disturbed state of mind. We talked until lunch. She has decided to see Dr. Giglioli and will not go home until autumn. That much is settled. The doctor is coming tomorrow at eleven.

After lunch we sat in the parlor talking to the two English ladies when Mlle. Bianca Carli came in. I had a lesson in la pronunzia and after that Mrs. Moore took one – Helen was too upset to take a lesson.

We went to the Duomo and walked around but it was too late to see much – so we went into the Edison moving picture show* and saw a thriller and came back in time for dinner.

Then went and made a call on Miss Kinney in her room. She is very nice indeed and is a great friend of Miss Post and of Miss McFadden. Meant to stay half an hour and stayed two.

I found a delightful letter from Margaret on my table. She has sent my dresses.

I went for the print from the film Pen took of me in the steamer and found it was very good so I ordered 6 more. Gave that one to Helen.

*In the city center, in piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the first cinema in Florence -- and perhaps even in Italy -- had been active since 1901: Cinema Edison, opened by Filoteo Alberini. source

Visiting Fiesole, the Benedictine Abbey, and the Church of San Alessandro

A beautiful day. Had b’fast in bed. Helen went on a picnic to see a tree 400 years old with the two English ladies, Mrs. Wilde and Mrs. Moore.

I left the house at 9:50 and walked to the Duomo and took the 10:20 car for Fiesole - Florence got on the same car - and we went way to the end. Then we took a ride around for 45 minutes to see the views and walked up to the stone seat – real - looking at the view until time to go to Dr Grazzini’s. We got there at 12:30 but did not have lunch till almost two. Sgna. Grazzini is very sweet and pretty and the Dr. is very nice, a very pretty daughter of 19 and a son of 21 - then two boarders- two young artists. Mr. Smidl – an American is very jolly – I tried my French on them and we had a nice time. They are very charming people. They showed us all around the house and garden.

Then we went to the monastery [Convent of San Francesco] and a monk showed us the church – the garden and the cells – very small. St. Benedict lived in one of them.


Then we went into the church of San Alessandro* – an old Roman temple. Then we sat on the stone bench a long time and talked and finally came down the hill and took the car – Florence got out at Le Lune and I at the Duomo and walked home. Florence paid for the drive and all the fees – I talked over plans with her and I told her about Alfred, [Alfred wants Jennie to travel more] – I am going to Siena next week with Helen to the Pallis – to be gone two weeks.

After dinner tonight the two English ladies to play Sequence. They caught on very quickly. Went into see Mrs. Hubbell a few minutes. Waited up to ask Herbert Houghton the name of the pension where he stayed in Rome.

I had a nice letter from Alfred. Florence and Tommy have rented their house and have gone to Oregon. Graeff Kennedy** has the whooping cough and the Morse children,*** the measles. Letter from Hazel – Percy is thin and not feeling well. Worries too much. He is taking a vacation. John is all right.

Inscriptions on stone seal at Fiesole. Ai sitor fratelli viaggiatori di tatti I paesi un Inglise. A.D. 1872.


*The Church of Sant'Alessandro, probably founded as early as the third century. It is on the site of an old Etruscan temple which was later replaced by a Roman temple of Bacchus. At the beginning of the sixth century Theodoric the Great is said to have converted the building into a Christian church making it the oldest Christian church in Tuscany.
**Graef Kennedy was married to Edith Kennedy, Jennie’s niece. Also Graef Kennedy Jr. was Edith’s son (b. 1913).
*** Duncan (b. 1909) and Florence (b. 1913) were Margaret’s children and Jennie’s grandchildren.

Sightseeing at Santa Croce and Church of San Miniato

A pleasant clear day. I had breakfast in bed with an egg and a little honey. Studied Italian. I was dressed by 10 and went into Helen's room – decided to go to Santa Croce. Invited the English woman, Mrs. Moore, to go with us and she brought her friend Mrs. Wilde, so it was after eleven before we got there. We separated and went around alone.



Went to Munsterman’s on the way back and bought Florence's medicines. After lunch, laid down an hour and then Helen and I walked down to the Duomo and took No. 13 tram to the church of San Miniato. It is a beautiful old church.

I had my opera glasses and Helen read the descriptions of the frescoes while I looked at them – an ideal way to do sight seeing – Saw the sacristy and talked a little Italian to the monk in charge who was very pleasant. We gave him a franc for the tour. We spent a long time looking at the church and then went into the cemetery which I found very wonderful. We admired many of the monuments which were works of art.


Stopped to admire the front of the church and bought some postals. We had to wait a long time for a car and then it was jammed, but we got a seat. We rode to the Duomo and had to wait again for No. 14 to take us to the house. Got there at 8. Had dinner – Mme. Crocini waited on us as her nephew was out. – She gave me two eggs “from the country.”

Spoke to Miss Kinney. – She said she had seen me in San Jose. Found Helen tired and going to bed. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room and the girls played some pieces on the piano Stayed till nearly ten o’clock.

Visit to Certosa

Breakfast in bed – studied the grammar as usual. – Finished family letter and sent it to Margaret. – Went with Helen to Or San Michele – then to do some errands and home.

Expected Mlle. Bianca Carli to come at 2:30 to give me an Italian lesson but she didn’t come, so came up and read in Helen’s book on Florence for awhile and then we started off for Certosa, the old monastery. Saw a very interesting old monk in a white habit who took us through the chapels – and into the monastery gardens and into one of the cells where the monks lived alone with a little garden near them. We saw the dining room where they eat in silence – a beautiful restful spot, beautiful views.



Bought postal cards – liqueur, honey and a vase with liqueur inside – Helen and I came back to Florence and then hunted around for a green vase to hold the sweet peas I bought this morning, also to get some eggs. Got home just in time for dinner.

After dinner had a pleasant chat with ??? Mr. Houghton. He had been to the Dananzati Palace and was most enthusiastic. Told of his visit to a palace owned by a Mr. Holshover – an artist from Detroit – who has bought this old palace which had been turned into a contadino house and restored it taking out petitions. I was going out with Mrs. Tanner to a cinematograph, forgot it talking to Mr. Houghton – came down to apologize and stayed there talking and laughing until nearly eleven.

Met Mrs. Oudesleys and her daughter on the tram. She says there are very few left at Le Lune. A Miss Kinney from San Jose came today.

Santa Trinita Church and Drugstore

Tired as usual. I am so tired of being tired. Had b’fast in bed, for my b’fast appeared when I rang for hot water. Helen came in about half past nine all dressed to go out, to do some errands and she said she would come back at 10:30 for me which she did and we went to Church of San Trinita and looked at the frescoes and paintings.



Then we went to Munsterman’s* and I left Florence’s bottle to be refilled and bought some essence of peppermint. The man weighed me and said it came to 64.5 kilos - a kilo is 2 1/20 lb. so that I was 141.5 but that does not figure out but 134 2/5 and I know I weigh much more than that. The other clerk said 143.5 the other day. Came home and lay down before lunch. After lunch had a nice little chat with Herbert Houghton and Helen Chase. He is over for three months and his wife and children are at Stamford, Conn.

Then I wrote a long letter to Margaret and enclosed one from Marion about Edith. Also a note to Mlle Bianca Carli to tell her that Helen and I want to begin our Italian lessons.

I was going out to walk but it rained so I did some mending and then basted the hem in the black and white striped dress Florence game me. Helen saw me working on it and offered to hem it, which will be a great help.

After dinner went into the drawing room a little while. They pressed me to play bridge but I escaped. Went into Helen’s room and found Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Tanner there. We had a nice visit with them.

*Probably The English and American Pharmacy, F. Munsterman, in Piazzetta Goldoni.

Quiet Sunday with Church, Zwieback, and Letters

Maid brought the hot water at 8. Breakfast at 8:30. I woke up feeling very tired. Had breakfast in bed. Just managed to dress slowly and to the Presbyterian Ch. I was too tired to enjoy the service. Came right back. Had bouillon, toast and an egg for lunch.

I had a pleasant conversation with an English woman, a Mrs. Moore, in the drawing room. She showed me her room for which she pays seven francs and I showed her mine and the pictures of my family that I am so proud of.

Lay down awhile and then tried to go with Helen to see the Boboli Gardens.


We got there and walked around a few minutes and then I was so tired I came back. Helen went and brought me some zwieback for supper to take the place of fresh bread. I went right to bed and had soup and zwieback and milk for supper. I had a bad attack of dyspepsia caused by getting overtired yesterday. Isn’t it stupid?

I tried to speak to Mrs. Brocknay who is traveling with Herbert Houghton but she was offish.

I finished my letter to Alfred about the furniture. Did not get to bed till midnight as I had to heat myself some hot water to drink.

Davanzati Palace, San Croce Church

I rang for breakfast at 8 and hot water at 9 or so. Mme. Crocini came in herself and was very pleasant. Studied my Italian and did not get dressed until late.

After lunch Helen took me to meet Florence at the Palace Davanzati. As we entered the elevator, Herbert Houghton stepped out. Said he was traveling with his friends and would stay a week. We were late meeting Florence and she was quite annoyed, but we went into the palace, Florence paying all expenses. Helen wouldn’t go, had been twice before. I think it is one of the most wonderful places I have seen. It is an old Florentine Palace fitted up in the manner in which they used to live in the 13th, 14th, & 15th centuries and all the furniture, tapestries, vases, dishes and ornaments are of those periods. The first floor belonged to the parents, then the second to the oldest son, the third floor to the second and each became simpler and plainer as you went up. I spent over two hours looking with the greatest interest and only left because the time for closing had arrived.

Then Florence took me down and we had ice-cream. She had invited the Bertolinis and the Gragginis to tea tomorrow so we went around and bought cakes re. Then she went back, but I went into the church of San Croce to see the procession of children. There were many in the church. I got a seat at the side but not in front of the altar.



I watched them light up the big chandeliers, holding 3 or 4 dozen candles. 37 of them. The church finally filled and the interesting procession began. A few hundred horsemen and a priest of fairly high rank, 4 very tall candlesticks, some little boys in white with red sashes, some little girls in white with red sashes and white veils and then multitudes of children holding a lighted candle or a spray of Easter lilies or both together with the parents leading out - holding their tiny infants sometimes. It was most interesting. They marched all the way around the church and then returned to the altar in the center of the church where the service went on and then the people began to go out and Helen and I left. We didn’t get home till after 8, could only eat soup and toast and milk, ought not to have eaten at all, as I was very, very tired.

Found letters from Margaret and Alfred. Alfred sent me $110, $50 being gift from Marion. He wants me to travel and will send me $100 more for that purpose. I wrote to them thanking them for his great kindness. Did not finish it. Had dyspepsia badly. Margaret is not at all well. She has been overworking. Had a request for back dues for Pacific Grove Museum*.

*Near Monterey, CA.

Noise, Shopping, Sightseeing in the Rain

There was so much noise on the street that I did not sleep after 4:30. Finally at 6:30 I sat up and wrote a letter to Marion asking about Edith. Got dressed and went up to breakfast with Helen. Afterwards Helen went out and I unpacked my trunk. Lay down for a while after lunch and fell asleep. Finished my letter to Marion. Helen and I went out and did a lot of errands.

Paid Dr. Dunn 80 francs but did not see him, gave my new address at French Lemon & Co., bought the English self–taught book for Elena* and went to the 48 centime store to see what it was like and bought some writing paper. Afterwards bought some better at another shop.

Helen and I went to see the house that Dante was born in.



Then we walked along through the queer narrow streets to the Palazzo Vecchio and I went through the underground part.



It looked so like rain that we hurried along, but it began to rain and we were caught and had to take refuge near the arched Lungarno. The rain slackened after a while and we walked home. I lay down half and hour before dinner. After dinner, Helen came into my room and talked and read while I sewed the blue slipper tops I knit into the soles. Helen made me some malted milk.

It is just pouring this very minute.

*See entry for June 5

Changing Pensions and Inspecting Riot Damage

Had breakfast in bed as usual. Heard the trains running.

Finished The Return of Sherlock Holmes.



Tried on my dress, the black and while dress that Florence gave me and that I am altering. Florence pinned the hem the right length and I basted the place.

Florence spoke to the directore and he said he would send the trunks down at 1.30 so finished packing my trunk and suitcase before going down to lunch. I said goodbye to all the people I knew and wrote an “approbation” in the Le Lune book. Paid my bill and left about 2 P.M. Helen came up about eleven to see if I were coming down. She then decided to come to the Pensione Crocini herself.

Florence came with me and on the way we stopped at Marmies’s and saw the wonderful ceiling. Also the windows the mob broke yesterday, also the street lights everywhere that they had smashed. We stopped and had ice cream and cake - cost 14 cents apiece.

Then went to the Crocini and found my trunk had arrived. Looked at several rooms and picked out the largest. Then Helen arrived, bag and baggage. She brought over some of the things I had left with her. We all went in to see Mrs. Hubbell. Then went to the Montebello for my plant and some things we had left there. Helen left a lot of things she did not want. We brought over flowers, books, magazines, etc. Florence packed my black winter hat in her trunk also my steamer hat, new pair of shoes, rubbers and heavy winter dress. Then I went back to Le Lune and we came to the Crocini. I unpacked lots of things. We had a good dinner. Went into Mrs. Hubbell’s room a few minutes. Worked over my room till nearly eleven. Ordered a can of hot water. I like the Hubbell family very much.

More Demonstrations and Rioting

Florence Wednesday June 10th, 1914

It rained a great deal today. Not a train was running nor carriage moving so I could not go to the Pensione Crocini where I was going yesterday*. Spent almost all day altering the dress from Florence - she would pin and I would sew. About four I was so sleepy I lay down and had a long nap. Spent part of the evening in the drawing room talking to Mrs. Rolland, to Mrs. Cochran. Miss French lent us Conan Doyle’s Return of Sherlock Holmes and I read a lot of the stories before and I lent to all.

All this day there was rioting in Florence, window smashing and light breaking., stone throwing. No trains nor trams running. No mail delivery. We heard all sorts of rumors that Marmie’s had had his place injured $20,000, but it was not so. The windows were broken but no lace stolen. We heard 41 officers were killed and a lot of people but that turned out to be grossly exaggerated. Soldiers were injured but none killed.

*Part of socialist demonstrations and riots in June 1914, prompted partly by resistance to conscription. See June 9th footnote.

Strike and Rain

Rained all night. I slept pretty well but woke up with a feeling of distress. Went in to see Florence and sat with her while she ate her breakfast. Then came back and had mine and ate some stewed cherries. Ate macaroni and bread and milk for lunch and bread and milk for supper. Had some distress all day from the caramels and cake I ate yesterday. A foolish thing to do.

The directore sent up word to know if I was going and F. and I went down to see him. He said there was a strike against the government and no trains were running and you could not hire any carriage and the horse belonging to the house was sick so he could not send me down.* As it was raining and I felt punk I did not care.

Tried on the black and white dress that Florence gave me and she pinned the lace on for a collar and I sewed it on and began to crochet a little finishing edge on the strips that go down the front. She also pinned the back seam so as to take away the fullness and it looks much better. I worked on it all the afternoon while Florence put new corners into the contadino veil.

I did not go down to dinner. Had bread and milk in F’s room.

I read Uncle Hugh’s fourth installment aloud while she was fixing her ears. Then we played a game of Sequence and she beat. Played till after eleven. Then I brought her alcohol lamp into my room and heated some hot water to drink and some for a hot water bottle. Had a nice note from Uncle Hugh and his fourth installment of his story and I find it most interesting.

Had a letter from Percy enclosing $40 till Dec. 1. Also telling me about the furniture and offering to store it in his garage and also that he was not feeling well for which I am most sorry. A nice letter from Hazel telling about the new house and the furniture. She sent it to Margaret first.

*During this week there was a lot of social unrest in Italy as radicals of all kinds were extremely vocal, resisting taxation, demanding wage increases, and opposing militarism. On June 7, 1914, popular uprisings ("Red Week") began in the Marches and Romagna, with rebellious landless laborers confronting strike breakers hired by local landowners.

Low Spirits

After I fell asleep, I slept pretty well. I was very tired when I woke up and I suppose I should have stayed in bed, but I got up and dressed, got talking with Florence about P.W., money - income re.re. Looked over my things and packed my trunk. Took me all the afternoon and I felt tired. I did not pack at all well. I mean to get as few things as possible.

Florence went down town and bought a very pretty little tea kettle.

They had a big dinner here for a club of 45 men. The table looked very pretty.

After dinner the Oudersluys came in and showed us some things they had bought and postals. Told us about Holland. I would like to go there. Then I played a game of Sequence with Florence. Beat her.

I feel millions of years old, tired and half sick and not very happy. My eyes are bothering me too and I supposed I ought not to use them. I was too old to come to Europe.

Military Review at the Caserne

Rained in the night. The Italians’ Fourth of July. I woke up at 6:10 and dressed and was ready before seven, went into F’s [Florence's] room and found her in bed. She was afraid to go after the rain. Went out, found Elina who said the rain was to be at 9 a.m. I ordered b’fast. F.B.H. had hers in my room in my bed. I got ready taking my medicine bag with me. And went to get Helen, found her dressed, left my bag there to take to the new place on Tuesday. She had paid and we started for the Caserne to see the Review which we heard was to be at 10.

Streets were filled with people with highly colored dresses and we saw companies of soldiers as we walked on in the Park finding all the fences along the race course turned into impromptu grandstands with benches or chairs on them to rent, but all were taken. Finally we walked up to the real grandstand where admittance was 2 L. I was going to pay when an Italian gentleman took us through on his ticket. I bought two Santa Croce pins for Helen and me. Then as the grandstand was filled, we found places by the procession front where we could look over the heads of those in front.

We saw a big green field filled with companies of infantry and cavalry, so many soldiers or officers on horseback in gorgeous uniforms, the Commanding General and his aides. He rode up and down five times and appeared to be inspecting the different companies and then something went on in the center that we couldn’t see but all the people who were standing went across the fields and stood near the general and his staff. After half an hour or so, we went over too and got a place in the second roof where we could see well. The General and his aides rode back and wheeled around, not far from us, 4 officers, one with gorgeous epaulets and 3 lieutenants - 2 I should judge-stood by the General who was on horseback and one private stood out about 10 ft.- and faced all the infantry review.

Then all the regiments passed in review, saluting and being saluted by the general infantry, Red Cross, bicycle, motor cycle cavalry. It was a brilliant spectacle.

We turned up the Park to take a tram and passed a field where there were lots of tents with the Red Cross on them. We went all through them and were intensely interested in them. Saw the men working. Just missed a car and had to wait 20 minutes. Just caught a Fiesole car. Terribly crowded.

Got back at 1:50 and had lunch. Came up and told F. all about it. Then went in to lie down. I slept an hour. We were to go to Fiesole but I was too tired to do it. So sat in her room and watched her pack the trunk she is to put in storage. She showed me lots of her pretty things. Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter Hortense* came in and sat a long time.

Spent the evening talking together and watching the illumination of the Tower of Vecchio Palace. Tried to write to the family, but I was too sleepy.

*Hortense Oudesluys was born Dec. 1893 and died on Oct. 31, 1992 according to the US census. In the 1916 “Biological Bulletin” put out by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole, MA., she is mentioned as a teacher at Western High School, Baltimore, Maryland.

Cinemattograph

It did rain about 9 so I gave up my trip to Florence where I was going to spend the day with Helen. I had breakfast in bed. However it cleared off at 10 so I made up my mind to go. Dressed and got to the Montebello to find Helen. Waited an hour reading the papers. Helen came in at one and we decided to have lunch there instead of going to that queer place under a palace.

Then we went to the Pension Crocini* and I engaged a room at 6 frs., 2 frs. extra for light, beginning next Tuesday. Then we went to a store to look at some dresses and didn’t like them and we wandered around the shops, finally ending at the Cinemattograph. It was called “La Tormenota” .We had to wait outside till the end of the act and then went in and saw the whole thing which took two hours. People leaving and entering every 10 minutes or so. It was a highly dramatic, sensational and emotional melo-drama, but I enjoyed it, the novelty of the situation immensely. Helen walked down to the car with me.

Got home before the first bell rang for dinner.

Played Sequence with Florence after dinner and beat her.

Had a very lengthy letter from Percy about that wretched old furniture situation enclosing exchange of letters between Florence, Hazel, and Percy. I am so sorry that there is this tensity of feeling between them.

*In the 1928 Baedeker, pg. 169, Pensione Crocini is at Lung Arno Guicciardini 9. As well it is listed in Artistic Guide to Florence (1910) on the Lung Arno Guicciardini.