Readying to Leave Siena

I was late in starting out having finished letter to Margaret inc. letter from Alfred and my answer, also 3 Kodak prints of myself and other letters re.

Went to Museo of Duomo – chapel of San Giovanni and Piccolomini Library.* Got there a few minutes before twelve, not knowing it closed at twelve. Guard said we must leave and to come back in afternoon or tomorrow, so went back at 2:30. Saw all the frescoes and bought over 4 francs worth of postals of Siena and a marble bowl from the Museo. Some of these postals I bought on the Via Carmi (sp?). Took a book out of library about San Gimignano, bought seeds and wafers off a peddler to try them.

Came home and settled bill with Signora. She is not friendly, I suppose because I would not pay for my breakfasts served in my room. Then too I thought it was 18 when it was 19 - paid 116.50. Paid 6.50 for having shoes repaired, a very high price. Signorina Orlandi came, but she was distraite and I was tired so the lesson was not a success. Paid her 9 lire. After dinner, packed my bag and hold all, also read about San Gimignano and wrote in this diary. I am glad I am going to leave this pension.

* Both the Piccolomini Library and St. John the Baptist Chapel are located in the Duomo di Siena.

Duomo and Strawberries

Sat up so late last night writing to Alfred that I was tired this morning. Had strawberries for b’fast. Had a letter from Helen. Dr. Giglioli wants her to go to the San Pellegrino* if only for 10 days so she is going.

Went to the Duomo for a while this morning and was much impressed with it. Brought some strawberries on the way home. Tried to buy six centessimi - 1 1/5 cents – worth instead of six soldi** – 6 cents.

Lay down after lunch – then went down to see the cobbler about my shoes. Then studied Italian till Signorina Orlandi came. Also studied this morning and this noon. We had a funny conversation tonight with the so-called count – think he is just an ordinary teacher – in Italian, French, and German. Wrote a note to Helen to say, I wanted to go to San Gimignano*** and would not reach Florence till 7 P.M. Also wrote to French Lemon to ask them to send my letters to Pension Crocini.

*Probably San Pellegrino Terme in Lombardy
**”Soldi” are old Italian coins worth 5 centesimi.

Medical Mishap Averted

I had a dreadful fright this morning. The maid who brought my hot water gave me a small bottle ½ full of liquid and partly by words and partly by gestures explained that she had broken my bottle in dusting, but had brought me another of the same medicine. I thought she meant that she had passed what was left of the cascara into another bottle, but in handing the bottle found it left a yellow stain in my hand and it proved to be tincture of iodine.

What would have become of me if I had taken 40 drops of tincture of iodine? I don’t know. I went right down to the Signora and she called the maids up and talked to them well, but I don’t think it made much impression and indeed I think she helped them get the medicine. Was much shaken up over it. Went to church and gave 5 lire for a thanks offering. Wrote to Florence to tell her about what had happened to me and to tell her of father’s 3 accidents to prove to her that she couldn’t have his disease.

Began a letter to Alfred. Took a nap – then went over to get some gelato – ice-cream – a German woman came up and sat with me and we talked a while in four languages. She was alone and lonely and her only son is in America. Came home and sat in my window to listen to the band playing in the Lizza.

Walked in the Lizza with the Oudesluys after dinner. Sat up till after midnight writing to Alfred about the disposition of the furniture in California.

Letters, Letters

Helen came into my room soon after six all dressed and ready to go, and even then she had not fully decided to go, but the maid called her and she left to get her b’fast and then came back and said good-by and started for Florence with Mrs. Clement and Miss Jeannerett.

Had b’fast and studied Italian. Then the maid came in with the mail for me from French Lemon & Co., two letters from Percy, one from Alfred enclosing $60, in money, one from Margaret, one from Florence S., one from F.B.H. and one from Uncle Hugh with his fifth manuscript, 2 to Helen from Hotel des Thermes. I wrote a note to Helen and addressed it to the Riccioli* and enclosed her two letters and the one I rec’d from F.B.H. and sent it, also sent one to Crocini for fear she might have gone there. Also forwarded to F. B. H. a note that Florence S. had sent her in my care and wrote her a little note.

Talked about Venice and the Dolomite trip with Mrs. O. and found out how much they were expected to cost. Wrote to F. B. about them. Mailed the letters about 3, went up town to Mosca’s to hunt for Nellie’s card case. “Not found,” the clerk said. Came back and studied hard an hour and a half on my Italian before Signorina Orlandi came. Had a good lesson. The Italian was at dinner and we had a polyglot conversation again. Left the table to look at the soldiers returning from Africa. Sat on the porch. Miss Gamble and her friend came over. Miss G. had taken the Dolomite trip and told us a lot about it. Mrs. O. and I walked around the Lizza** and came in. I am tired and going to bed.

Alfred’s landlady, Mrs. Johnstone, died very suddenly. I am sorry. She was a nice woman. He is well. He wrote me about the furniture. Could not find my cascara,*** but just pieces of the bottle. It must have been broken.

*Probably Riccioli, Via dei Tintori, mentioned in Italy Handbook for Travellers, by Karl Baedeker, 1906
** City park, La Lizza.
***Cascara-medicinal bark taken for constipation.

Sightseeing in Old Siena

Dressed somewhat earlier so as to go with Helen and Miss Jeannerett. We went through the oldest part of Siena – Via Castel Vecchio re to the Porta San Marco. We visited three churches en route – The Oratory of St. Mary of the Snow – and the Convento del Carmine and I do not remember the other – nothing of especial interest. We saw an old woman making twine out of flax. – We watched her a few minutes and then I gave her two cents – Lay down a few minutes before lunch. Slept 1 ½ hours after lunch – then changed my dress and started in to study. Wrote two exercises when Helen came in from her call on Miss Haskell and we talked over plans. She hates to go to Florence, but I want her to go to see Dr. Giglioli for I think he can help her and she needs help.

I had an interesting lesson with Signorina Orlandi – and I am learning with her.
At dinner I talked to the gentleman who sat next to me – in school girl French and worse Italian and convulsed the English speaking crowd. I heard afterwards that he was a count. He speaks French and German, of course Italian, understands English, but cannot speak it. After dinner Mrs. Clement, Miss Jeannerett, Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I sat in the parlor chatting. Mrs. Clement and her daughter go tomorrow. Helen is packed but does not know whether to go or not. She wants to see Florence’s letter. She dreads going alone – but it is only a two hour ride.

Churches and Italian Studies

Went with Mrs. Oudesluys, Mrs. Clement, Helen, Miss Jeannerette and Flora Davis to the church of Santo Spirito on the Via Ricasoli – then with Helen and Miss Jeannerette to the Porta Romana. It was a most interesting morning and we saw interesting old houses and queer old streets. I stopped at the church coming back and got my card case and it is a beauty.



Lay down an hour after lunch – then studied Italian till five when I went out with Mrs. O and Helen to the church of Santa Maria di Fontegiusta. It is the most beautiful church I have ever seen with the most beautiful altar, nothing tawdry about it.

I came back to take my lesson and Helen and Mrs. O went in the Cusurelli* farm. They reached there so late that they stayed to dinner and did not get back till nearly nine.

I had a very nice lesson with Signoria Orlandi. She will make me learn if anyone can.

After dinner went upstairs to sit with Hortense O. who has been in bed all day. We were speculating as to what had happened to her mother and Helen when they came in and told us of their adventures.

I wrote to the Pension Crocini and to French Lemon & Co. to send me my mail.

*Possibly Lucarelli, a town outside of Tuscany, which has a farm house which has had guests since the 1880’s.

Siena Duomo

Slept pretty well. After breakfast, moved my things into the front room, no. 8 that Miss Herron had. I like it very much. Then Helen and I went out to the Duomo for an hour and I looked at the pavement and the upper rose window of the Last Supper.


Meant to have laid down but I got reading The New York Times that Mrs. Clement lent me. I did take a nap in my chair. Oh by the way – I have a rocking chair.

My teacher, Signorina Vittoria Orlandi, came by at 5 and I like her very much indeed. After she left, I studied till time to get ready for dinner. After dinner chatted awhile with Mrs. Clement, Mrs. and Miss O. and Helen. Then we four went out into the park and took a walk.

Studied Italian awhile after I came in.

Palazzo dei Diavoli

Woke up soon after 5 and could not go to sleep. Got up a little after six and wrote a letter to Uncle Hugh enclosing Florence’s letter from San Pellegrino.

Washed out some gloves, h’chiefs re – did some sewing – went out with Helen to take a tram ride but the tram was so late in starting that we thought we should not have time before lunch – so started home – Met the English woman from the Crocini, Mrs. Moore. She said Mrs. Wylde was going to the Dolomites tomorrow.

Did not lie down after lunch but mended my clothes instead. Expected the Italian teacher at four – but she came at five and said she could not give me a lesson today, but would tomorrow at 5.

Then Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I went out and got into a train that went to the Piazza Diavoli*. It was a pleasant ride. We walked back going into a church on the way – near the house. I came into the house and rested while the others sat in the park.

After dinner, sat with Helen, Mrs. Clement and her daughter, Miss Jeanerette. They told lots of funny stories, Miss. J. especially of the quaint things her Italian pupils in New York had said. It is cold tonight.

*Probably the Palazzo dei Diavoli, sometimes called the Palazzo del Turco, and located outside the Porta Camillia.

Cimitero della Misericordia (Cemetery of Mercy) Siena

Slept till 8:30. Had b’fast – afterwards went out with Helen to the market and bought some wild strawberries and was dreadfully cheated by the woman. I came back and stewed them for breakfast – tomorrow.

Helen said that I did not need to go back to Florence with her but that I could stay on here and come up later and she would go and consult the doctor and do what he said – but she would try to persuade him to let her go into Switzerland with me. The Signora will give me the room Miss Herron has. She leaves tomorrow.

Talked with the Clements awhile before lunch. Lay down after lunch and had a good sleep of 1 ½ hours – finished my family letter and mailed it.

Helen and I walked out to the cemetery of the Misericordia and saw the monuments there – the beautiful Pieta* re and walked back.



After dinner, we talked to Miss H. and Mrs. Cl., then I wrote a note to Florence and to the Italian teacher Miss H. recommended and Signora sent the maids out to mail them.

*probably the Pieta created by Giovanni Dupré in 1863 for the family tomb of the Marchese Bichi-Ruspoli in the cemetery of the Misericordia, Siena.

Siena on a Sunday: "A band went past at midnight playing lustily"

After I got home last night I had a peppermint patty and read a two weeks old Sunday home paper so I was 1.40 A.M. before I got to bed. I did not get up till 9.30 and had only a cup of caffe latte for b’fast. I went to the Eng. Epis. church with Mrs. and Miss O. [Oudesluy] and heard a very good sermon by a Rev. Mr. Read about giving and going to the communion.

After lunch lay down for 1 ½ hours – then began a family letter about the play we went to last night. Finished it at 12.30 this Monday morning.

Went to 6 o’clock even song at the English church and spoke to the pastor, Rev. Mr. Read. We had a pleasant talk together about his morning sermon and about the fact that many in his audience were probably members of other denominations and so did not respond to his invitation to take the communion. He said that people traveling should not feel so but were welcome as guests at the Lord’s Table.

Coming home I sat in the park awhile listening to the music and watching the people. After dinner Helen and I walked with the two sisters from Detroit, the Misses Gamble to see the Duomo by moonlight. We talked of California and of Egypt and had a most pleasant walk. Coming home I went upstairs and finished my family letter and wrote this diary. A band went past at midnight playing lustily.

Celebrating the 4th at the Lizza

Siena, Italy, Saturday July 4th, 1914 [Visit to Church of Osservanza and play at Teatro della Lizza]
As usual had breakfast in bed and studied Italian – the only time I find to give to it. Then Helen came in and asked me if I wanted to go to the leather shops with the O’s [Oudesluys] and herself so I went while they bargained for lessons. I ordered myself a pretty card case for 9 lire.

Then Helen and I wandered around the queer old streets till lunch time. Brought 3 kinds of soap. Did not lie down after lunch as I should have done but wrote a number of the contrade post-cards to send off.

At five o’clock we went out to the church of Osservanza, outside the gates. We had two carriages – going. Helen, Hortense O., and I had one and Mrs. O., Mrs. Clement and Mrs. Geuneret had the other. Coming back Mrs. G. took Helen’s place. It was a beautiful ride with lovely wild flowers. Saw the large and small St. John’s wort and the wild scabiosa. The church was interesting and we went into the sacristy and into the vaults where Hortense ?? on two rings when the monk was out of sight. The Della Robbia was really beautiful. The only one I have enjoyed and so were some of the old illuminated pages in the old parchment books.

At dinner the O’s, Helen and I decided to go to the Teatro della Lizza* to celebrate the 4th – An Englishman at the table said he was going to celebrate the 4th and we told him it was good of him and had lots of fun over it. We went over at 8.40 and bought seats – “Posti distiniti” – for 60 centimes each – Entrance being 1 lira. We had a great time getting in for we went the wrong way and the few people there were in the theatre, talked and pointed – and we finally understood we had to go out and around a corridor. Our seats were just chairs fastened to a long board to hold them in place. 2 rows in front were separate cushioned chairs 2 lira each where the English people were. A boy came around and we hired cushions at 10 centimes each. The play was “The Dollar Princess” – but we did not discover who the heroine was. It didn’t begin until 9.20 and was in 3 sets with long waits between, so it was 12.15 before it was over. We were stiff from sitting so long on our hard chairs – though we stood up a couple of times between the acts. We enjoyed our outing but decided we didn’t want to go any more.

*existed 1859-1942.

Slow Rainy Day

I was awfully tired so I stayed in bed and had breakfast and studied the grammar there. Did not get dressed till 10. Helen came up to say that they were around with the banners and the winning horse and wanted money to help about the dinner so Helen and I gave 5 francs between us.
I washed out several pieces and had nice hot water for it.
Helen in the meantime moved into the front room. She cares so much about the room she has that I like her to have the best on for it makes her happier.

Lay down and slept after lunch – then went in with my letter to Jeannie Hincks,* telling her about prices re in regard to coming abroad next winter. Helen came in and invited me to go to walk and I got all dressed but it looked so dark that I did not go. I forgot to say that we had a thunderstorm after lunch. Went into Mrs. Oudesluy’s room with my sewing and told them the story of Margaret’s wedding which amused them very much.

After dinner played part of a game of Sequence with Mrs. Oudesluys and then Helen, Mrs. O and I went out and walked to the end of the Lizza and back – her daughter and Miss Flora, Signora’s daughter went too. – Came in at ten and came upstairs and finished letter to Jeannie Hincks.

*This may have been the daughter of her grandfather’s sister, Jeannie Hincks

The Palio

Got up earlier with my bath and was ready to start at 9.20. Miss Kinney, Helen and I went to 12 Via Corrier, bought a programme and then to the house and chapel of Santa Catherina and saw the frescoes and other things, her old room re re. Then we went into the chapel of the Oca and saw the little medals in the walls and then into the room where the contrada* meets and saw the banners they had won in previous races. Then we went to the church of San Domenico and looked at everything mentioned in the guide book. Miss K. got tired and went out and sat under a linden tree. It began to sprinkle on the way home. Dinner at one today.

A letter from F.B.H. She says it costs so much there, 10 lire a day, that she does not advise my going there. She has a room in the Hotel Thermes.

Miss Kinney came over at 2.45 and at 3 we started off for San Domenico** to see the horse blessings. We got chairs and sat there till 5 and then the horses did not come in but only to the door so we felt that it was a fraud.



Then Helen, Miss K and I took a carriage and drove to the Duomo to see all the different contrade come before the archbishop. Then we drove back and went and sat in one place and watched the Palio. The most interesting part of it all to my mind was the crowd - The horses all groomed, the course was draped with the colors.



The costumes were beautiful – the race short – the Istrice or Porcupine***– the horse from our district won.



We waited till most of the crowd had gone, then we walked home. Had a nice supper at 8 o’clock. Then we walked over with Miss K. and said goodbye to her as she leaves tomorrow. Then Helen and I walked down to the contrada room and saw their other banner, one going so far back as 1600. I sat in the park till 10.10 – then came back and wrote up my diary.

*The Contrades of Siena are different districts in which the city is divided into. Each contrade has a very rich history with emblems, banners, colours, official representatives etc. that all trace their lineage to medieval times.
**Church of San Domenico. The blessings are done at local churches before the race.
***one of the emblems for Terziere di Camollia, one of three districts of Siena in ancient times.

Siena Sightseeing

Miss K, Helen and I went over to the Campo and went through the Palazzo Communale. Helen went through Sunday so she would not go. It cost 50 centimes. I have a remembrance of large rooms with half faded frescoes. One room had large tapestries in it and one room had modern frescoes of the dead king, Victor Emmanuel. I liked those very much. Then I went up to the Loggia and looked at the market and at the view which was so hazy you could not distinguish anything distinctly and at the rondels for different public buildings in Siena.

Lay down after lunch and had a good nap – Then finished “Where Love Is” by Wm. J. Locke.* Then I went out and met Helen and the Ouderluys and we went to the Campo. Found the gate closed so a very pleasant soldier showed us how to go around and underneath the seats to our own places. The race was short but the crowd was interesting as usual.

After dinner, Miss K., the O’s, and Helen and I went over and sat in the Lizza** and then Helen and Mrs. O took a walk while I sat chatting with Miss O. Then we decided to have some ice cream (which only costs five cents with the tip) so we went to the café outside the Teatro della Lizza and ordered our creams and an orangeade for Mrs. O. When the doors of the theatre opened, I should think two or three hundred men poured out and sat down at the tables for beer, almost all of them smoking. Only two or three women were among them. Looking up we saw a lot of women on top of the roof of a sort of piazza. We hurried up and finished our cream and paid the waiter and left. Came back and chatted a while with the people in the piazza and them went to bed. I slept very well. A nice letter from Margaret.

*written in 1903
**Teatro della Lizza: 1859-1942

Locked in the Museum of Medieval Pictures

Miss Kinney, Helen and I started out to go to the Museum of Medieval Pictures. We went way past the place and had to be directed back to it, as it was distinguished from other door [ways] by just the band Galleria over the door. It was a most interesting collection for any one who likes that kind of a thing from the paintings of the early centuries to those of the XVth – XVI cen. We were pleased to notice that the infant Jesus in one picture was playing with a rosary – while the Virgin at her [breast} wore a necklace with a coral chain against the evil eye hanging from it. Miss Kinney said she also saw a bracelet on the baby’s arm. I did not stay as long as I would have liked, but I was getting tired and left. We found ourselves locked in when we came to leave as the custodian must have been at lunch, but we rang a bell and he came and released us.



Lay down after lunch. Sewed a good while afterwards. We started out to find an exhibition of cross stitch work, but we couldn’t find it so we went and took our seats and watched the race. There was no flag throwing nor procession. Walked in the Park in the evening. It is beautiful over in the park and there are crowds of people.

Checking out the Sights and Attending Horse Trials

Siena, Italy – Monday, June 29th, 1830-1914

Got up at 4:45 and read and studied for an hour. Then slept until 8 o’clock. Had b’fast about nine. Helen came in and said I might to go in to see the people so I hurried and was ready soon after ten. We went down to Via Parmi and met Mrs. Moore and Mrs. Wilde, the two ladies from the Crocini. Mrs. M. started on the 7:30 train, went to Pisa instead of changing at Empoli and did not get here till 5 P.M. Mrs. Wilde was in the same train and had a good laugh at her.

We met Mrs. Oudesluys and her daughter and went with them to two churches, the San Bernardino and San Francesco and their cloisters. It was most interesting. Bought some postals in San Bernardino.

Came back to lunch and found Miss Kinney here. We had lunch together and then Helen and I came up and lay down and had a nap while Miss K. ate down in the parlor and read. Then we (Miss K. Mrs. O, Helen and I) all went to the Duomo and baptistery and then to the Campo where they let us get into our seats though we had left our tickets at home. We have very good seats in the top row where we can watch the race* and all its incidents and the crowd. There was an immense crowd there. It was intensely interesting, just like a kaleidoscope. We saw several horses race. One rider was thrown and his horse ran the course just the same and of course interfered with the others.

After dinner Miss K. went home while the O’s, Helen, and I walked around to the Fort and looked over the wall by moonlight. Then came back and had an ice and then home. Helen washed her waist** and I wrote this diary.

* The ancient annual horserace, the Palio, is on July 2nd, but from four days before the Palio, trials take place in the “Campo” square which is turned into a race track..
**blouse

Quiet Day in Siena

Father’s birthday today.*

I did not eat any breakfast. Mrs. Clements came in to see me. She was very kind, bright and pleasant. Helen went out for a while. I read the Outlook for April 25th.

I had soup, two eggs, and sieved pears for lunch. Afterwards Helen and I had a good nap. I got up after four. It was 5:10 before we went out. We carried my books with us and found a shady seat where we sat and waited for the band concert which was scheduled to begin at 6 but was over half an hour late. I enjoyed seeing the crowds of children prettily dressed and also the older people.

We had to come in, as it was dinnertime. After dinner we sat in the salon talking with Mrs. Clements and her daughter and with Mrs. And Miss. O. Came upstairs about ten and wrote up this diary.

*Richard Bowers Thurston, born June 28, 1819 in Charlestown, Massachusetts.

Siena Ring Train

I decided to have breakfast in bed and studied the Italian grammar as usual. Then I dressed and went out into the Park, wrote to F.B.H. at Le Lune and sent some postals to the nieces, and Baby-John.

Helen lay down after lunch but I did not. I ripped off, mended and put to soak the lace from my gray silk waist.* Afterwards Helen washed it for me. I felt very tired and went to walk with Helen to get some wood alcohol. Then we rode in the funny overhead ring train from one end of the route to the other. Then as I was very tired, I came home and went to bed and had bread and milk for dinner. Helen went to the cinematograph with Miss Hortense Oudesluys. About eleven, I was so sick that I threw up all my supper which made me feel easier and I slept pretty well.

*blouse

Florence to Siena

Did not sleep well, there were so many noises in our alley. Got up at 6:30, wrote a note to F.T. H. and sent her Marion’s letter.

Dressed and finished packing – had breakfast and started in a carriage for the train. Saw Mrs. Moore and Miss Kinney to say goodbye. We got to the station before the train was made up – 55 minutes before it left. Of course we had the window seats. We had a pleasant ride down, to my surprise reached Siena at 11:50. I accidentally saw the name or we would have gone on. As it was, I asked 3 people before I could be convinced.



Rode up to Pension Flora and were given a back room with 2 beds – everything else in the house was taken. Arranged for Miss Kinney to have a room outside and to take her meals here. Had a nice lunch. Then we lay down for two hours. Mrs. Moore’s friend, Miss Nunes, came to see about the ticket. She was very nice and kind and we went with her and exchanged the tickets she bought for us for five others for the Oudesleys, Miss Kinney and ourselves. Then we went to see her room in a pension in a palace. It has a beautiful view.



Then we went to the Church of [Santa Maria di] Provenzano where we stayed for Benediction.
Miss Nunes is a Catholic. Then she brought us up the hill – till we could see our own pension. – Mrs. and Miss Oudesley are here and came out to welcome us when we came. They have a very pleasant room. We had a nice dinner and then we went out for a stroll about the neighborhood. Coming back I wrote notes to Miss Kinney and Mrs. Moore and mailed them. “I spiek English! Goodnight! Goodbye!!”

Packing and Feeding the Fish

I was tired and had b’fast in bed as I always do – studied my Italian – Then washed my hair – As it was drying, Helen sent word that Dr. Giglioli was here, so I put it up as well as I could, put on my wrapper and went up to H’s room. He said he thought Helen was better and would be all right in a month.

I went down and looked over my things and divided those I wanted to leave in my trunk from those I wanted to take. Worked till almost 5 – them went to Munsterman’s, the druggist’s, and met Helen and we went around and did a lot of errands.

I bought gloves and a silver spoon as I had lost my old one. Left new address at Am. Exp. Co. and found 4 letters there from Percy, Alfred, Florence Sanford and Marion. Edith is better – I am so glad.

Carried out two packages of stale bread to feed the fishes in the Boboli Gardens, but it took us so long to do our errands that the gardens were closed. I was determined not to carry the bread home so I dropped one package in the Lungarno under the arches – first looking to see that no one saw me and gave the other to an old woman with 20 centimes and I know she thought I was crazy – got lost and wandered all over everywhere trying to find the Via Tornabuoni.

Bought the Fanciulla and sent it to Duncan for his birthday. Came back tired out. Made Miss Kinney and Helen laugh till they cried over the adventure of the old woman and “il pane vecchio.”

After dinner paid my bill and then Mrs. Hubbell, Mrs. Turner, Miss Kinney and I all went into Helen’s room and had a jolly time.

??? is going to have a baby Christmas.