New Pope, Packing, Lace Shopping, and Sailing on the Arno

Spent the entire morning packing my trunk. I am going down on Saturday with the four trunks and Florence and Helen will remain here to see Mr. Smith settled here. Mrs. Addison called this morning.

After lunch I went down into my room. F., Helen and I and we had a long discussion as to how much money we would need as I can draw on Percy’s account. It ended that they did not need any from me. Then we went out to do errands – to Naomi’s for Marion’s lace – not done and then a long wait to send telegram to a German hotel in Naples and prepay answer asking if they could take four ladies at 8 lire a day – then to Femminile to look at lace – none there. Stopped at D.. to get cakes and then home. Found Mrs. Zupponi here and we had tea and a good time.
Florence and Helen left at 6 to go to the tailor’s and I went around with Mrs. Zupponi to different lace stores to try to match my collar, but couldn’t. Then went home.

After supper Mr. and Mrs. Bragg, Helen and I went out in the little steamer on the Arno. It was delightful.

A new Pope is elected. Benedict XV, the archbishop of Bologna, a friend of the old Pope.

Money Found, Shopping and Helping Starving Artist

Mrs. Zupponi came this morning and said she knew where my money was, that it was in the Credito Italiano – that she had been there the day before and they admitted it was there, but would do nothing till they had seen me. That it had been sent to Milano thinking I was there and it was not to be returned to Florence before I could get it or I could have it sent back to America. From there I went to Bargello and took a guide who explained everything to me and I spent 1 ¾ hours there most usefully and pleasantly.

After lunch lay down awhile and tried to find the store where my night gowns were made at 10 Via de’ Benci. They had not reopened. Then we went over to the Fallon’s and had my suit tried on – it fits well. Florence came in to have her clothes tried on and Helen and I left. We were going to the Femminile to try to get lace cuffs to match collar – went into store to see about dictionary when I ran into Mr. Smith, the artist who lived at Mrs. Grassini’s. He was looking pale and thin and said he was going to Rome. I told him Florence knew a nice pension which was cheap and we started out to Carelia’s the tailor’s to find her. She had left and we chased her to the library. She invited him to dinner, but had to go back to the tailor’s, so I took him along with me. He is having a hard time. His money has not come and he has not paid at Fiesole for 4 weeks. They do not give them enough to eat, so he is always buying some extra to eat. He owned up he only had a lira in his pocket book. It seemed that the doctor* had a check of more than enough to pay the board – so that could be cancelled.

We went into the showrooms of the Signa factory and wandered through them admiring everything. Then we came home and Mr. Smith played on the piano while I smoothed my hair re. When Florence came, I consulted her about lending him some money. It was decided to do it, but he wouldn’t take it. We had a jolly dinner with the Braggs and C. Then we were going to the Piazza Emmanuelle to see the crowds, but we got talking downstairs. We forced 150 francs on him and made him promise to come to the Crocini to live. He is coming Sunday and we are to wait for him. He left about 10. I hope he will come for I feel worried about him.

The war news is terrible. Germany seems to be winning on every side.

*Dr. Sterling Barrows. Mrs. Addison’s cousin.

Shopping and Searching for Money

Something I ate disagreed with me and I have felt badly all day. The dressmaker came and tried on my dress. It is very pretty and I like it very much. Gave her the stuff to make a cover for my rug. F.B.H. thought she had left her keys at the Montebello so she went there – later found them under her bed. Mrs. Zupponi came and we went to French, Lemon & Co. Could get no satisfaction about my check – they said they knew nothing about it. No news at the Consul’s. Then met F.B.H. at Cook’s and went to bank Credito Italiano where it was arranged to pay tailor and Dr. Giglioli and the balance sent to North America later on. Then we went through the showrooms of the Signa terracotta.* It is wonderful what they can do. We went to Banca d’Italia and Florence drew out 500 lire – her money from Washington – but no trace of my money. Mrs. Zupponi is coming here tomorrow to take tea.

Florence fortunately remembered the name of the manager of French Lemon and Co. – a Mr. Ayres. She used to know him as he and his wife were friends of Rose Clark. I went to F.L. & Co. but Mr. A. was out, so went home and came again at 3. He said he knew nothing about it and could find no trace of it – said it was safe and the money would be returned to Percy where he mailed it. It is in Italy but they had no word from any bank. Came back at 5. F.B.H. And I went to tailor’s to have suits tried on. They were all right – went around to see about a waist for Florence to go with her new suit. Then to Settipasse’s where I am to have my lava head set for $7 – then on to Pia’s house where they tried on my two waists and can alter them all right. Then home. Florence found she had left her purse at Pia’s with 17 francs in it. I had toast and milk for lunch – soup and toast for supper – felt better.

The Germans are not in Paris yet. They are acting like savages.

*Manifattura Di Signa produced copies of antiquities and renaissance models in terracotta from the late 19th Century. The company had outlets in Florence, Rome and Turin and catered for wealthy patrons doing the Grand Tour of Italy.

War News, Conclave, Errands, Getting Ready,

The Conclave for electing the new Pope begins today – and the Re’d Italia sails for America. I slept very well but am tired from my walk of yesterday.

Florence B. H. is very weak from her illness and has nearly fainted several times – nevertheless, she did a lot of packing. Mme. Zupponi came to see her this morning. I went to Am. Consul’s and found both the Sant Anna and Oceana had cancelled sailing – the latter I was told because they asked too much. No one knew whether the Canopia would sail so I did not send cable.

Went to tailor’s and watched Helen and F. get fitted while I read two Eng. papers I had bought. Then we chose a blue serge for me. F.B.H. said I looked cross and ugly and as if I could eat her up. I guess I did. She got on my nerves – came back to lunch and then I went out again with Helen and sent cable to Margaret – William Morse, Amherst, Massachusetts.
Together, safe – sail Canopic Hincks – 8 words cost $2.50. Then changed F’s dictionary for a better one. Left M’s* lace to be cleaned. Went to Italian chemist and got a prescription filled for F.B.H. went to Settipassi about lava cameo that John** gave me – and came home. Lay down and slept a while before dinner. Little girl came and brought two waists that Pia made – sleeves too short.
Germans within 80 kilometers of Paris. This war is terrible.
Had a letter from Mrs. Oudesluys from Cortina. She seems to have no idea of the situation and I haven’t much myself.

*Maybe a gift for her daughter Margaret or sister Marion.
**Probably John Howard Hincks, her late husband.

Tram Ride in Florence, War News,

I slept very badly – so did not get up until 8.45 and had b’fast in my room. F.B.H. is much better. Syringed out both ears with Helen’s help. Wrote card to Penelope. Tired and very lazy – hooked over letters re.

Helen and I went out about four. We went to the end of the No. 13 tram that goes to Poggio Reale, past the Piazza Michel Angelo and then walked all the way home – a beautiful walk. We stopped at the Piazza Michel Angelo and had some ice cream – which Helen paid for. I bought some flowers for Florence off a little boy.

We spent the evening chatting and comparing the merits of California and of Italy.

It is said that England has sunk their cruisers and a torpedo boat destroyer off Heligoland.* I am tremendously sorry for the men, but I hope Germany will be beaten and that William will lose his crown – Old Wretch.

It sprinkled and threatened rain all day.

*Heligoland is located 70 km (44 miles) off the German coastline and consists of two islands:

Busy Time Getting Ready to Leave, and Pope's Service, War News

Some way I was very late in starting though I am taking my b’fast upstairs now – they have so few to help. Helped F. with her ears – syringing them out. It was 11.30 before I got out. Mrs. Addison, the one who knows Mrs. Blaney – came and said she had heard of an extra berth – she wants to travel with us to Naples. Said she knew of a pension with a view for 6 ½ lire.
I went to the Duomo and saw the last part of the funeral service for the Pope. – It was very grand mummery. Met Mrs. Addison there by accident. Maria and her husband, the former porter. – She looked so thin and sad. I gave her $2.00 and 2 lire to Italia who goes on a week’s vacation. Maria takes her place.

After lunch, went out about my money to the consulate. Did not see the consul, but a gentleman who advised me to get it and take it out. He thought French Lemon’s conduct was suspicious.

Went to tailor’s to say that F.T.H. was sick and could not go to be fitted. Took my veil to be dyed. Met a Mrs. Nevins and went with her in search of an Eng. Newspaper for Florence – later than Aug. 17th – could not get it. We went in to Santa Maria Novella to see the frescoes.

Bought an Italian paper. The news is terrible. Mr. Lang, the young Eng. who has just returned from Vallombrosa,* says the French and English are beaten badly, that Germany is committing every outrage, killing young boys and even babies. They are using not only dum-dum bullets,** but an even more deadly kind. I hope that God will punish that man, Emperor William, as he deserves – for he is the cause of this terrible, inhuman war. I can read a little of the Italian papers, but not much.

After much work finished my boudoir cap. I went into my room and was reading one of Phillip Oppenheim’s*** stories when I fell asleep and did not awaken until 12.40. After that, I washed out my crepe nightgown which has been soaking all day.

The dressmaker brought my dress but there were lots of mistakes which have to be altered. Florence looked after it. Then the milliner brought my hat which was very good. That is the one with the blue feathers that I had last summer and my felt for the boat.

Mrs. Nevins said, “the war was inconvenient coming at the time – that it had inconvenienced a good many people.”

*Vallombrosa is a Benedictine abbey in the comune of Reggello (Tuscany, Italy), c. 30 km south-east of Florence.
**Expanding bullets which were outlawed, but Germany was accused by Belgium of using them during World War 1.
***Phillip Oppenheim (1866-1846) was a very popular and prolific British novelist who wrote genre fiction and thrillers.

War News, Money Difficulties, Shopping,

Bought 8 postals and wrote to all the family saying we were to sail on White Star Line “Canopic” Sept. 10th and mailed them. Hope they will go out on the Re d’Italia Aug. 31st.

Did not leave house until 11.15, then with my feather over to the little milliner. Then met Mrs. [blank] on the Ponte Vecchio. We waited a while for Helen and while waiting she introduced me to an Italian who has a jewelry store in Boston. He hates the climate and wants to return. He says times are terribly hard in the U.S. on account of politics.

Then we went to see the lace. She said she would bring it to show Florence at one. Met Helen and went to the Pia sisters and looked at waists. Brought one back to show Florence – afterwards went back and ordered two for 12 fr. each. Mrs. [blank] came and I bought the collar and ordered cuffs to match. F.T.H. brought one home and letters from home. It was such a treat. She had one from Marion.* She had sent her $500.

Hazel and Percy had cabled me $250 – July 31st and I had never been notified. I went right around to French Lemon & Co. – the clerk said it had not been sent to them but to a bank and they had sent to F.L. and Co. for my address and it had been given in Milan – but I never heard of the money. He did not remember what bank it was in. Went to Banca Commerciale – They did not know of the money – said if I did not need it to let it alone and it would be returned to the sender. Helen got her steamer reservation and paid deposit. Saw Mrs. Addison – she has her bank and is all right for money.

Went to tailor’s for samples was measured for suit. Met Helen going back and I took F’s prescriptions over to the druggists. They cost $1.00 – went into 48 centime store. Coming back looked into Cook’s and saw Helen. Waited 15 minutes for her to come out. Florence felt so badly she did not go to dinner. Her face all swollen from the toothache.

After dinner sat with her till 10.30. She and Helen read the paper while I sewed on the boudoir cap. Mrs. Addison said she heard that perhaps neither the Canopic not the French boat – Sant’Anna – for the 14th would sail. They say the Germans have sown the ocean with fire mines. It is dangerous to go or stay. Bought 2 N.Y. Heralds.

There was a great ringing of the Duomo bell. The signora said it was on account of the Pope’s death. Big service tomorrow. Everything is very cheap and there are wonderful bargains but no money. Big demonstrations somewhere tonight. We were too tired to go. A note from Penelope. She goes home steerage.

Money, Tickets Home, Dressmakers, and Visiting

Dr. Giglioli was coming at 8.30 to see Florence and Helen but he did not come. Florence had to leave as she had an engagement to meet the lady and get the tickets so she went – got the tickets which they found were an upper and lower in an inside state room on the 4th deck for which we pay $105 in gold. In the meantime the dressmaker had come with my dress and Dr. Giglioli came. He was thunder struck when he found we were going home. Florence came in in time to see him and also to see my dress. Then we went to Cateria’s* and Helen ordered a very striking suit. Then I bought the silk for my girdle – the same stuff exactly as we could not match the color. F.B.H. also bought the lace for my sleeves.

After lunch we lay down and then we got dressed and went to Mrs. Zupponi’s, the one who is going to let Florence have 300 lire and get her pay out of the money in the bank. We had a lovely tea party in the little apartment, delicious peaches and bread and butter and cake. It was very nice and pleasant. Helen had to go back about her ticket but F. and I stayed till 6 – looking at the postals of the different places where she had been – it was most interesting. We stopped at a couple of stores on the way back and looked at waists. An eccentric American, a Mrs. Echardt, came to call on Helen and stayed almost all the evening. She was very bright and very funny.

Poor Florence had an ulcerated back. I sat up till after twelve heating hot water for a bottle and reading aloud the news from an old American newspaper. Did not sleep well.

*Possibly spelled “Catana’s” or “Caterina’s”. See September 2nd.

Money, Shopping, and Tickets Home

Woke up at 6. Florence has adjoining room and we talked till time to dress. Went up to b’fast at 8. Then started off for Am. Consul’s to learn news – see if Am. Express checks were good and to buy my dress. Found that Bryan advised all Americans to return as soon as possible for fear of naval battles where the seas might not be safe. Looked up the Re d’Italia. She was such a small boat – did not like her. Am. Express checks are good.

We bought a lovely lace and net and emb. collar for 22 francs. Went to two stores, bought a cashmere silk for 11 fr. a yd., 2 extra yds. for alterations. Took my hat to have feathers extended and recurled and F. took a piece of silk there and they will dye them to match. Then we met Mrs. Zeppone and Helen and Mrs. Z. went to the bank with me and found I could get my S.F. check cashed for 823 fr. and 83 centimes which I received. Hurried home and found the little dressmaker here. Going up in the elevator saw Mr. McLaughlan of San Grinignane in the boat. Spoke to him and he thought I was Florence. I said she would be back soon as she had an appointment. She soon came in and I went down and had my dress fitted. She comes tomorrow to fit it. Went up to see the McLaughlans. Found they had come to offer Florence 2 berths in the Canopic given up by a lady who wishes to sail on the Fabre liner, the Sant’Anna.* We said we could go down at 4.30 to see her.

Lay down after lunch and got up at 3. Helen came in She came in and said she would do what we said but I said she much decide for herself. Went to Cook’s, found they expected more berths on Canopic. We put our names down, first choice. Then Mrs. McL. came in and the one who had two Canopic tickets to sell. She had half promised them to someone else and she was frantic when she found we had taken them. Got talking to her afterwards and found she was a Mrs. Addison who knew Alice Blaney when she was a little girl. She felt very bitterly, but was more reconciled when she found that Florence was really sick. Was talking to her at Am. Consuls when F. came alone. The Consul had sent for her. Someone had cabled her money, but the consulate was closed. We went home. I washed out some things and F. lay in my bed. Then dinner and we came downstairs again. F. and Helen very tired and went to bed.

The news in the papers is very bad. Germany is defeating the Allied armies. It is said she has taken the low countries.

*In 1914, the SS Sant’Anna was one of 11 ships, including eight liners owned by Fabre Line. It was commissioned for the transport of troops, and later torpedoed in 1918 near Bizerte (Tunisia) with 2,000 passengers.

Train Trip: Milan to Florence

Got up at 5.10, dressed, had b’fast and started off in the carriage for the station. Had the window seats, 2nd class and we had a most comfortable trip. The first part of the journey was through level agricultural land – most interesting. After Boulogna [sic] we went into the mountains and through many tunnels – 372 was told – what scenery we saw was beautiful. Reached Florence about two. The man wheeled the things home and we walked – cost a franc apiece. Found our porter – the house locked up and we had to ring. I have my old room and Helen the one above. Florence was at lunch and we took her by surprise. Then we sat and talked. Florence thinks we ought to sail on the Re d’Italian* [sic] on Aug. 31st – a ship of 7500 tons – a very small Italian boat. Everyone says go home, so I think we shall go. I felt terribly about it. I am afraid of the small boat. We went to Am. Consul – no satisfaction. Then to agent of boat who wants $110 for second class passage. Came back to think it over. Decided to get new silk dress so we went way over to Florence’s dressmaker and were late to dinner. She will make my dress and have it finished by Friday night. Had a nice dinner. Then talked and talked about it for hours afterwards.
The great battle is in between the French and English and Germans. It is feared the Germans will win.

*SS Re d'Italia was an Italian ocean liner for Lloyd Sabaudo named for the King of Italy (Italian: Re d'Italia). Launched in 1906, she sailed between Italy and New York and South America for most of her career. During World War I she was employed as a troopship carrying United States troops to France as part of the United States Navy Cruiser and Transport Force. She was scrapped in 1929.

Getting Ready to Leave Milan

Helen went off early to see Dr. Giglioli but missed him. Then she went to Am. Consul’s who advised her to go to America, said he would go tomorrow with his family if his duty did not require him to remain here. Said he thought Italy would go to war after the election of the Pope and that there would be riots re. Helen was there when the telegram was received which telegram I have copied on another page and then she went to the bank and drew some money.

I got started about 10.30 and went up on the roof of the Duomo. It was most wonderful. I did not go up to the highest part because it was not clear and I knew I could not see far off. I actually got lost wandering about the roofs. Saw the statues of Adam and Eve.

Came home and had lunch. Then Helen and I started right off for Cooks to get our tickets and to see about our trunks. On the way I stopped at the Bank Commerciale, but they would not cash my check. Said they would write to Florence and see if it were all right. So of course I wouldn’t leave. We bought 2nd class tickets - 29.75 almost $6. Went to the station and registered the trunks, then went to P.O. and sent them express to F.B.H. Went up to Duomo and I bought some fruit for tomorrow and some post-cards and a paper. The Germans are advancing on the French frontier. Came back and began to pack. It is 7.15 P.M. now. Bought a piece of water melon. FINE. Dr. Giglioli came while we were at dinner. He was very jolly and said it was being around with me that gave Helen hot flashes. Spent the evening packing. All packed before I went to bed.

Milan: Church, Sightseeing, and Ice Cream at Biffi's

I went to the English church where we had the lay service as we did last Sunday. It was a pleasant – helpful service. Coming home, I saw them throwing their dogs into the canal to wash them and to see them swim. Then I went into San Marco where the columns were covered with red brocade. Got twisted about direction and had to inquire.

Helen stayed at home to write letters. She went out and bought the materials for our simple lunch. Afterwards I lay down an hour or so and had a nap. Then Helen and I walked out to the Castello and walked through the courts re.- We were going to the church of San Ambrosio, but I wanted to go home.

About six we started out to go up on the roof – but it was too late, so then we took No. 10 car and went to the Arena and saw the Torres , but we could not go up because there was no one in charge. So we walked home which took us longer than we had expected so we were late to dinner, but they were very nice about it. We had a nice dinner. About 8.30 Helen and I went to the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle where we walked up and down and finally went to Biffi’s* where we had some ice cream. Came back about 10.30.

Received a telegram from Florence with the one word “come”. Also two postals today from her and one from F.T.S. who was just starting off with Tommy, Alfred and the Harris’ into the Cascade Mts. – and a postal from Margaret who was on a four day walking trip with Margie and Katherine, Will and Margaret and Billie Irins**. She said Baby Florence was all right and that Duncan’s arm was doing well.

*See entry for August 11th.
** F.T.S. – Florence Thurston Sanford, Jennie’s daughter; Tommy -Tommy Sanford; Alfred-her son; Margie and Katherine - sisters of Will [William Northrup Morse]; Florence and Duncan are Margaret and Will’s children, 1 and 4 years old.

Milan: Pope's Funeral. Last Minute Sightseeing, and Consula Notice

Helen and I went to the Duomo to the service in honor of the dead Pope. The church was draped in black – the music was fine. Cardinal [blank] was there and preached from a pulpit hung with red. There was a large crowd. We stood on chairs for over an hour then left while the cardinal was preaching.

Went to Thomas Cooks, found out about trains. We shall have to leave at 7 A.M. and go 2nd class as the next train does not start till 1.15 for change at Boulogne [Bologna] and do not get in till nearly or after midnight – so many trains have been taken off. We paid for the trunks Helen’s and Florence’s and ordered them sent to the station at S.P.W. Monday. Then it will cost us 29 + for 2nd class as against 19+ 3rd class. Went to White Star office. They offer Canopic at 475 lire first class four in an outside room. 52 pounds for two in a room.

We had our usual lunch and started out to find Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. It was beautiful. Then we looked around the cloisters and the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie* and walked to the Castello**. We did not go into it for it began to thunder and we hurried home and got in just as it began to pour.

Found in coming back a notice to Americans about transportation from Genoa. I got mad at Helen over it and jumped at her three times and stamped my foot and acted like a crazy fool and she behaved very well. I was tired and I think the succession of thunderstorms (one almost every day) got on my nerves. Made 3 copies of the consular notice and sent one to Mrs. Oudesluys in Cortina and one to Mrs. Tanner in Lauerine and one “express” to Florence in Florence to see if it might change her plans and asked her to telegraph answer. Helen and I went way to the post office to mail it.

*Famous church in Milan which is the location of the Last Supper.
**Castello Sforzesco - a Renaissance castle in Milan with large art holdings.

Milan: Consul's Advice and Making Plans

Miss Anna Horsey said she was going to Genoa and would personally mail my letters given to her in an America-going steamer so I wrote to both Margaret and Alfred telling them I expected to go back to America. Miss H. left at noon today.

Helen went out soon after nine and did not return till after one. I had a letter and two postals from Florence. She said the consul advised everyone to go to America and that she went to see what she could do. $110 was the cheapest rate and that means steerage so she had had the co. wire for berths. She herself does not want to sail for Boston but for New York. Her ear bothers her again and she is going to Rome next week. She is very undecided and does not like to take the responsibility of deciding for other people.

I went to the consul’s office after I read the letters. He said the bank ought to pay me the whole of any check since it must have been deposited after August 4th. He said the bank should have paid Florence 10 per cent instead of 5 - as it was the Royal Command. The consul said we had nothing to fear if we decided to remain on in Italy only prices would probably go up and it might be very hard to get money. On the whole his advice was to go back to America.

Got back to the house and Helen wasn’t here so started lunch. She soon came back and I read her the letters and we decided to go on to Florence so I wrote to F.B.H. and told her we would leave here Monday or Tuesday and to wait for us.

Lay down awhile then got ready and Helen and I went out on the top of a double decker car to Monza* – beautiful ride. Saw the chapel where the king was assassinated – the royal palace, then the cathedral which was most most interesting. Had a lovely ride home. Had our dinner in a café near the Porta di Venezia. The dinner was poor but the surroundings were most interesting.

*Monza is 15 km. from Milan. On the evening of 29 July 1900, King Umberto I of Italy was assassinated in Monza by the anarchist Gaetano Bresci.

Death of Pope

The Pope is dead. Late in starting from the fact that I did not sleep well and I am tired. Helen had a poor night. I was in with her after midnight and fixed her peppermint and hot water. Finally got off about 11 and left the milk bottle. Saw some splendid peaches in the street. Thought Alfred would want me to have them so bought them and then our usual supplies of milk eggs and rolls and came back to the house.

Found a telegram from F.B.H. saying, “Consul advises sailing on Canopic* Sept. 10th - Am booking places.” Well I was struck off of a heap and felt old and discouraged and all my ambition gone. I don’t want to go back for I shall never come again. Read it to Helen. – She is half pleased to go. We went out together and went to the Scala Theatre and saw behind the scenes and to the Council Chamber in the Palazzo Marini. Mailed home letters. Went into Duomo - then home to lunch. Then I had Italian lesson, very good one and then I went out tram riding. Took the Circum?? at Porta Venezia and went all around then took car the wrong way and had another ride. Had a note from the Oudesluys. They are still at Cortina. Also a letter to Florence which I forwarded. It had been sent on from Amherst. We had a nice dinner here in the house – soup, roast beef, and stewed peaches – I read all the stories in the volume I have of Conon Doyle’s around the fire. Most of them are gruesome.

*S.S. Canopic of the White Star Line

Boats to America

Did not get an early start – so I persuaded Helen to go off to the park while I stayed home and mended and wrote to Alfred to send him birthday greetings. Miss Horsey came in and I chatted with her awhile. She is a cousin of Chief Justice White* and a Catholic but very nice for all that.
Helen came in about one bringing the provisions and we had lunch. On the kitchen table I spied a postal for me from Florence saying two Italian boats were to sail from Naples. Aug. 22 and 25th and that Americans in Florence were advised to go by one of those – also that transports for 8000 were being sent over by the U.S. and wanting to know what I wanted to do. Miss Anna Horsey had a letter from Mr. Jones, the Am. Consul at Geneva, saying that the Am. Transports would be here in two weeks.
I don’t want to return to America, but I would prefer to go in a transport. I wrote to Florence at once telling her what Miss Horsey had told me. Then I had my Italian lesson. I feel I am improving. Then I went to Cook’s and met Helen and Miss H. and we took two nice trolley rides in new parts of the city and then went to the Orologia and had dinner and the waiter overcharged on everything and I made him take most of it off. Then we went into the Galleria and met Miss Horsey and we had ices and listened to the music. Came home at 10 – I found the outside door locked and had a time opening it.
Finished my letter to Alfred and wrote this. The paper tonight said the poor old pope** is dying.
*Edward Douglass White, Chief Justice, 1910-1921.
**Pope Pius X died on Aug. 20, 1914.

In Milan, Visit to the Brera & War Worries

Tried to read the Italian newspaper while I was eating b’fast, but there were too many words to look up that I couldn’t very well.
Helen went to the French Consul’s with a Miss Horsey, the new boarder, while I went to the Brera Gallery which I very much enjoyed, especially the fore-shortened Pieta by Andrea Mantegna, the most powerful picture I think I ever saw. I also especially liked the Dance of Cupids by Franc [Francesco] Albani. I was so impressed by the Pieta that before I left, I went back through all the rooms to see it again. I was there almost two hours and a half.
Came back and found Helen here. She said the French Consul said you could go into France all right, but he was not sure you could cross the Channel. We had a nice lunch, scrambled eggs in my little pans. It was late when we had the dishes washed – so I looked over my Italian paper till 4 when I took my lesson. I can see I improve even with so little study. Then Helen and Miss H. went to interview the Am. Consul, but I had a waist re. soaking in the washbowl – I washed them out – and intended to go in the train around the city, but I felt tired and stayed at home and mended instead.
We had dinner here – we were promised soup – which we had and roast-beef which turned out to be a pot-roast. Talked awhile after dinner. Then went into my room and went on with my sewing. Helen read me aloud a short story of Conan Doyle.
I had a letter from F.B.H. She says Dr. G. wants us all to go to the Mts. He thinks Italy will be drawn into the war and that conditions will soon improve. F. is having a new blue silk dress made. A nice letter from Hazel telling about little John and one from Hortense Oudesleys written Aug. 4 from Cortina. Said the war had broken out and advising me not to come. I hope they are all right.

Shopping and Eating

We went out about eleven and bought some little things we needed. I bought the materials for a boudoir cap and an aluminum pan to scramble eggs – and Helen bought blacking* and braid. We wandered around the streets gazing in the windows, and finally came back for lunch about one. Then the wood alcohol gave out and I started to find some and went to six stores before I got it. A man started to give me some thick brown stuff which proved to be varnish. We had a nice lunch – eggs, milk, rolls, and I had a melon and cake besides. Then I took my daily lesson in reading the newspaper from Mr. Betham. Then Helen and I went out and took a long walk in a new direction following Via Torino. It was very interesting. We went into several old churches – came back to the Cooperative Ristorante and had a good dinner for 2 francs a piece. Then we went home and found a new boarder, a Miss Horsey from Washington. She has an engagement Nov. 1st in Washington and she is crazy to get back on the first boat going. She is very pessimistic about the situation. I suppose I ought to be and perhaps don’t realize the danger, but I am entirely enjoying myself very well. I began a letter to Alfred this morning.
We had a curious dessert – a kind of egg nog whipped up with white wine – very good. It is called Zabalione. [zabaglione]
* shoe polish

English Church, and sight seeing,

I got so excited studying last night that I didn’t sleep last night very well, so it was late before I got started.

I went to the English church. There was no minister but they had a lay service and I liked it very much. It was slow and reverent. It was dark and began to rain before I got home. Then Helen came in; she had been to the Brera gallery.

I cleaned the spots of my white dress and Helen cleaned hers. Then we had our usual lunch of eggs, milk, rolls, and fruit and cake. I lay down and slept nearly two hours. It rained at intervals all day, and sometimes poured. About 6, we started to take the train that goes around the city. We went ¾ of the way around when it began to lighten and to rain hard so we got out of the car and went upon the Porta Venezia, and stayed there until the storm broke – then we took No. 26 train back to Via Brera – there we went to the Cooperative restaurant upstairs and found it crowded. No meat was left but roast veal so we left and went down stairs and had dinner in the restaurant below where we sat in the Vittorio Emmanuelle and watched the crowds.

Came back about 10 – Did not take a lesson today because it was Sunday. Read a column of the paper with difficulty.

Duomo Service, Jennie's View of Priests, and Visit to Orologio

Helen and I went to the Duomo to see the big service in honor of the ascension of the Virgin. The archbishop was there – a lot of priests re. – the organ and two choirs of men and boys and a large congregation filled the church. We had good seats in the choir. I enjoyed the music very much. The service itself seems tawdry and cheap and I cannot see how a self-respecting man can be a priest and go through such a farce. After the service was over, we wandered around a while and came home and had lunch - then lay down.
I got up and was dressed shortly after four to take my lesson in reading the Italian newpapers. Then I wrote a family letter to Margaret – telling her what we were doing and asked her to send it to Uncle Hugh and so on to Alfred. Mailed it on our way to dinner. We went to the Orologio* and had a rather poor dinner – enjoyed seeing the crowd of people.
I sat up and wrote off the ?? that I had gathered from the Italian papers and that Mr. Betham had translated for me. Wrote a note to Florence in the morning and mailed it when we went to the Duomo.
*An area of Milan