I went to the Museo Civico and spent a most interesting morning in looking over the collections. The guards are all old men and before I got back I had given something to a lot of them, not because they had done anything, but simply because they were old.
I was fifty minutes getting home, and so was very late, 1.40, when I sat down to lunch. Heard that the American consul had sent word to all pensions and hotels requesting all Americans to register – so two of us went around to do so - found the office full of frightened Americans – most of them people who had passage taken on some ship for this morning.
German ships have cancelled sailings and it is impossible to get to France or England to take passage from those countries. Consul advised us not to try to leave Italy as Italy was neutral and safe. Said I couldn’t get into Austria if I tried.
Came back to pension and went to Pension Gregori after mail. Said he had forwarded a postal to me. Then to Am. Exp. Co. - no letters.
Had an ice and listened to the music in the Piazzetta – came home. Found everyone wild with excitement. 500 Americans are trying to charter a steamer to take them home - $100 apiece. I listened to them reading war news. Read Cosmopolitan magazine to quiet my mind before going to bed. Some Italians in a wine shop near here argued so long and fiercely that I couldn’t get to sleep. They did the same thing last night.
Monday, August 3
Sunday, August 2
Sightseeing and declaration of war by Germany
Slept better than I have for a long while. Could hear the mosquitoes but I had a good net so I didn’t mind. Had breakfast downstairs at 8.45 – caffe latte and cherry marmalade.
Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.
After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.
Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.
Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.
Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.
Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.
*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.
Walked to English church near Belle Arti and was so early I walked over to the Fondamenta al Z.* It was beautiful looking across to the island of Giudecca. Stepped for a moment into the church of Gesuati** – then walked back to the English church. Service had begun when I reached there.
After service went to the Frari church. It was really wonderful. Titian’s tomb and Canova’s and the tombs of the Doges. – I got a little mixed up returning and one of those everlasting officious beggars insisting on directing me and I had to give him 2 cents. Also a woman who spoke French begged in the church. I gave 2 cents and a moral lecture which I am afraid was lost on her.
Had biscuit and hot milk and stewed pears for lunch. Lay down and slept nearly two hours then went to St. Mark’s and heard the Benediction. Was too late for Vespers though I was told the service began at 5.50. My skirt nearly came off so the man let me go into a room an office of the Doge’s palace and fix it.
Looked at the Campanile, clock tower, three flag pedestals*** and walked along the Riva [blank] , and finally took the boat home. There is another American sitting at our table from Omaha, Neb., a very pleasant woman.
Did not dare to go out tonight on account of my face which is not entirely well yet. I fear I am going to have trouble with it.
Young Mr. Conte says Germany has declared war against France and Germany on account of the trouble between Austria and Servia [sic] and it is thought England will be involved. I have sent to French Lemon and Co. for my mail.
*Fondamenta Zattere,
** Church of il Gesuati, is an 18th century church, facing the Giudecca canal in Venice.
***She might be referring to flagstaff pedestals which were very common in Venice.
Saturday, August 1
New lodgings in Venice
Had a profuse perspiration in the night and woke up without pain, but weak. Had breakfast in bed – got up about eleven and dressed – but did not go out. Intended to go to station with the Oudesluys – but all four were going in one gondola so I said goodbye at the house.
Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.
Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.
The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.
Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.
I am going to bed, tired but happy.
Left house at 3:30 to take a boat ride and also to look up a pension where I thought I might be able to get good soft food. Looked into the church of Santa Maria del [la] Saluta for a few minutes, then had a great hunt for the pension. Was not directed right and I went back and forth till finally I got a small boy to show me.
Went in and talked to the daughter and looked at a single room at 7 francs and liked it so much I decided to come so hired a gondola by the hour – went over and packed my bags –tipped the waiter and chambermaid and came away. I paid my bill at noon.
The gondolier was not pleased because I gave him so little - 2 francs – 20 cents – which was too much in fact. Came up and unpacked my things, then took a ride to the end of the Grand Canal and back.
Dinner ready when I came in. Had the first good meal – two plates of soup – two cups of tea – soft boiled egg, soft custard cake and a slice of melon. Came up stairs and washed out my new night gown though they have a sign up of no laundry allowed in rooms which is none of their business.
I am going to bed, tired but happy.
Friday, July 31
Fever and toothache -- resting in bed
I had another bad night and had indigestion beside so I had to get up and have a peppermint patty. Towards morning, the pain became less, but I have a big swelling on the side of the roof of my mouth – spent most of the morning dozing. I made up my mind I wouldn’t go tomorrow with the O’s but when I found my temp was 100 ½ (It dropped to 99 ½ this morning) decided I must get out of bed so I began to pick up my things.
The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.
*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."
The O’s have been very kind and brought me eggs and crackers and oranges and pepto-mangan.* They haven’t stayed in with me because I didn’t want them to. My tongue is still white - I feel better on the whole. Two postal’s from F.B.H. She has reached Riva – and one from Penelope.
*Pepto-Mangan was widely advertised iron tonic which actually was worthless in treatment of anemia. Instead its main ingredient was ethyl alcohol. In 1936 the Federal Trade Commission ordered the makers of Pepto-Mangan to "cease representing that this product restores health by enriching the blood, revives weakened blood cells, or creates new energy."
Thursday, July 30
Toothache, infection, and fever
I had a dreadful night – up and down all night, but I did get a few short naps. Had my meals in bed – principally soup or hot milk as my mouth is so sore I can’t chew and my throat is sore so I can hardly swallow.
The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.
I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.
Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.
The inflammation has extended to the roof of my mouth and to my lower jaw right under the tooth that is in trouble.
I have a temp. of 100 – 100 ½ - 100 which is not strange and my tongue is badly coated.
Notwithstanding, I read one of the O’s Sat. Eve. Posts through from cover to cover and I finished crocheting the lace to put on the dress Florence gave me.
Wednesday, July 29
Visiting San Marco; toothache
I slept badly - partly my tooth which ached a good deal and partly the noises around which woke me up. My room is next to the dining room and people come in in late trains and leave in early ones. And the doors open on the roof and the church bells ring and clang at 5.30 and the little steamer chugs up to the landing place and people go past singing and talking and laughing and I can’t sleep.
Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.
My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.
* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.
Went out a little before 10 to meet the Oudesluys in front of the church of St. Marco and they were late so I bought some corn and fed the pigeons. Hortense came up and took two snap shots of me, but unfortunately took another picture on the second film so it was spoiled. We went into the gallery at San Marco and looked at the mosaics and they are perfectly wonderful especially the figures of the prophets. Then we went behind the altar and into the treasury where I saw some wonderful book covers. They left me there as I was too tired to go any further and they wanted to do some sight seeing. Came home and lay down.
My tooth is aching in real earnest and I am afraid I am going to have an ulcerated tooth. Had to take my teeth out because I could not stand them any longer. Had a dinner of soup and hot milk brought in. The O’s went out with the young Italian whom a friend of theirs sent to call on them – and I went to bed. I couldn’t stand it there so got up and played solitaire. Finished felling* the bottom of the white skirt Helen began.
* To sew or finish (a seam) with the raw edges flattened, turned under, and stitched down.
Labels:
churches,
Piazza San Marco,
sewing,
toothache
Tuesday, July 28
Art galleries, mail, and bath-houses
Could not sleep so got up at 3.30 and had a peppermint patty, and wrote a note to F.B. H. who has left Pellegrino and is on her way to Cortina to meet us. My letter is to catch her at Riva. I went to the Rialto to mail it and some postcards to Marion for bridge cards.
The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.
Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.
Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.
After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.
The Oudesluys went right on to the Belle Arte and I joined them there. They left before I did to see about lessons in book binding. Going through the galleries, I saw Miss Julie Lovelay and we had a nice little visit together. She is with a party of 19 people, 5 of whom are intimate friends and the conductor and his wife are friends. They go home in August and Miss L. goes to London – I was very glad to see her – Looked at all the masterpieces in the gallery and walked home over the bridge.
Mrs. O. stopped at Am. Ex. and got four letters for me. Margaret sent me 4 Kodak prints – very interesting. She also told me that Duncan fell and broke his arm and had to take ether to have it set. They had a terrible thunderstorm at the time. He likes the blocks I sent home. A nice letter from Hazel – one from Uncle Hugh and one from Miss Mary Witt.
Lay down a while after lunch and then we went to the Lido, took a tram to the big Excelsior Hotel which has a beautiful situation on the Adriatic and looked into the casino or bath-house and sat on the broad porch and watched the bathers. Then I went down and looked at the little individual bath houses. We came home in a double-decker steamer which only runs to San Marco. We walked the rest of the way.
After dinner we talked over plans about pensions in Cortina and in Belluno. I think I caught my gum in the clasp of my tooth for it is sore and aches somewhat.
Labels:
art exhibit,
bath-houses,
post card,
sailing
Monday, July 27
Post cards, errands, and Grand Canal tour by gondola
I wrote till after midnight before I finished my letter to Percy about the furniture. This morning I read it over and added another note and sent him some seeds – zucchini and blue morning glory. I also sent Percy’s letter to Margaret – so that she could understand the whole affair. It took me till nearly eleven before I could get my things ready to post.
Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.
Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.
I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.
I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.
I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.
Then I walked to the mail office near the Rialto and mailed them stopping to look into the shop windows as I went along. Coming back I did a few errands. Lay down after lunch – got up at 4:30.
Hortense had the young Italian man – so we were late in starting out. We went to the station to enquire about tickets re. and then we hired a gondola and came down the grand canal to our house. It cost me 17 cents. It was delightful coming down in that way. It sprinkled but did not rain – while we were at dinner it did rain, so we did not go out. I spent a long time looking at postal cards and I bought a lot and another set – to send to Marion. Boiled some water.
I inquired at Am. Express Co. and rec’d a letter from Hazel. She has been very busy but says they are very well.
I expected more letters and I am afraid they are being lost – so I bought four lovely post cards and printed on the back a request to each one of the children to please have the address on my letters TYPE WRITTEN so as to avoid mistakes.
I gave Hortense a string of very pretty Venetian beads that she had picked out to give one of her own cousins.
Sunday, July 26
Sunday services in Venice
Wrote seven postal cards before breakfast – which we had about nine o’clock.
Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.
Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.
After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.
It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.
Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.
We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.
Then we went across the river in a little steamer to the English church were we had a pleasant service. The minister for some reason preached with his eyes closed which made me think he was blind.
Then we walked over one of the three bridges that are over the grand canal to St. Mark’s and went into the church there where we hoped to hear a fine service - but although the church was full there seemed to be no high mass going on with organ and singing – so we walked through some of the side streets and came back.
After lunch lay down and slept – I was going to the vesper service at St. Mark’s when I found out the O’s were going across to San Giorgio Maggiore on an island across from St. Mark’s and I decided at the last minute to go too. We went over the church which was a stately dignified church with very little adornment – and then Hortense and I climbed the campanile – which had inclined planes with slats across instead of stairs.
It was a wonderful [view] from the top and I felt well repaid for the effort. I could see where the channel was marked out by piles and the other islands and the mainland and the shape of the city of Venice - and the shipping – but I was not high enough up to see the course of the grand canal. My legs were rather shaky afterwards.
Then we went to the end of the route and back – which made a lovely sail. I tried to take the O’s by a short cut home. It was not cut through so we came back to the water from between the two columns – Mrs. O wanted to walk home and we wanted to go in the boat so we separated. – It was further to the landing than we thought and we had to wait for the boat so that Mrs. O. got home before we did.
We did not go out after dinner – but read the papers re. It rained a while too. I came into my room and made myself two cups of tea – because I am afraid to drink the water in Venice.
Saturday, July 25
Art exposition: Venice Biennale
Slept pretty well, nevertheless, I was awfully tired when I got up. I had breakfast at 8:45 in the dining room with the O’s and a little before ten we were ready to go out.
We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.
The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.
Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.
We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.
After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.
I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.
*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.
We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.
The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.
Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.
We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.
After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.
I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.
*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.
Labels:
Lido,
Piazza San Marco,
Venice biennale
Friday, July 24
First morning in Venice
It was the first morning in the pension and we had b’fast in our rooms, so we three had b’fast in Mrs. Oudesluy’s room.
Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.
We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.
After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.
Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.
We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.
After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.
Labels:
Palazzo dei Dogi,
Piazza San Marco,
Venice
Thursday, July 23
Arrived at the Gregory in Venice
Got up at 6 and worked hard at my packing till 8 when Maria came in with my b’fast followed by Signora with my lunch and the bill. I had a great time in sorting out the things to take and the things to leave.
About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.
Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.
Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.
Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.
Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.
I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.
*porters
About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.
Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.
Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.
Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.
Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.
I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.
*porters
Wednesday, July 22
Errands in Florence before traveling to Venice
Got up at 7 – wrote to Uncle Hugh enclosing F.T.H.’s last two letters and to Helen, sending her two letters that came from America – also wrapped up packet of postal cards re re – Got off at 10 with Mrs. Tanner.
Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.
After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.
Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.
Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.
Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.
After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.
Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.
Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.
Tuesday, July 21
French lessons at the Dogana and at Palazzo Vecchio
Wrote on my letter to Florence S. till 8 o’clock when I had b’fast – did my usual little washing and a little mending and at a little [before/after] 10, started off for the dogana or Custom House. Went away down to the Duomo and took train no. 19 and had a pleasant ride around the city and finally come to the dogana and had a curious interview with the official. He opened the box – looked at the white suit that I bought in San Jose 4 years ago – declared positively that it was new – and that I had paid what was right in duties. I showed him the bottom of the skirt and protested that it was old, antiquated, ancient, – then he pulled it around – finally said it was old and that I would get my money back in October. All this was in French – ye gods and little fishes.
Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.
*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.
Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.
*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.
Monday, July 20
Riding on the Arno
Duncan’s birthday*. I wonder what he is doing! Got up early and wrote on my letter to F.T.S.** before breakfast. Then washed out a couple of pieces and wrote a note to Signorina Carli and one to Mrs. Oudesluys – tied up Baedeker to send to F.B.H.***– and the catalogue of Pitti palace to send Sig. Carli. Started out at 11 – went to P.O. and sent off books, catalogue, re. Then inquired about any packages. It is the box with my dresses – duty 6.32 Frs. And they are to send the box to the customhouse tomorrow and I am to go there to explain and probably they will remit the duty as the clothes have been used. Robas usatas. Bought my new Italian grammar and went to Am. Ex. Co. They will take my trunk to Munich for 12 Frs. $2.40.
After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.
*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.
After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.
*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.
Sunday, July 19
Four Churches but No Service
Awoke before 7 – had breakfast at 7:20 so as to try to go somewhere before church. I went to the Museo of San Marco and found it beautiful and most interesting. I saw famous pictures and frescoes of the cell where Savonarola lived when he was preaching his famous sermons.
Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.
Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.
At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.
Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.
Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.
Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.
At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.
Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.
Saturday, July 18
Back in Florence
I went to the Pitti Palace and looked at the pictures and enjoyed doing so very much. The rooms were magnificent in themselves.

I was late to lunch.
Ate fruit afterwards – three apricots – crackers and jam – and had a nap of 1 ½ hours. Then I went to the store that Helen showed me and took my waist to have a new collar for which she is to charge me a lira – and ordered two crepe night dresses that I can wash myself.
Went afterwards into the Santa Croce Church.
Tried to write to Margaret but I was too tired
I received a notice that my dress is at the post office.
I love to hear the little pleasure boat go up and down the Arno with the lights, the song and the people.
Friday, July 17
Errands back in Florence
Woke at 4 – and got up at 5 – dressed and went upstairs and took Helen by surprise. Helped her get ready and went to the station and helped about her trunk. She was in an apartment for ladies and there were three who spoke English and she had the window seat. Saw the rain start – Walked home – Cooked my strawberries and had b’fast. Then had a grand wash of Harriet, Susan, June, and Rebecca. Also some small pieces and my waist. Mended a little, worked all the morning. After lunch, borrowed Mrs. Hubbell’s alcohol iron* and ironed my waist, then took a nap.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me to come up to tea to meet a Mr. Pecker from California, but I thought I wouldn’t. Dressed and went out after my ring and spoon that I left to be marked. Went to a tobacco shop where I bought stamps, soap, starch, matches and candy – all for a franc. Walked around by the flower market and came home.
Spent the evening in Mrs. Hubbell’s room, showing her my postals and my marble bowl and leather card case. I wrote postals to John, Baby Florence, Marjorie and Constance Nice and Duncan, also one to Alfred.**
*There was a German patent in 1897 for such an iron which had a small container of alcohol fitted on to it to fuel it.
**Her grandchildren are John [Hincks], Baby Florence [Morse], Duncan [Morse]. Marjorie and Constance Nice are Margaret Morse Nice’s children and Alfred [Morse], Jennie’s son.
Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me to come up to tea to meet a Mr. Pecker from California, but I thought I wouldn’t. Dressed and went out after my ring and spoon that I left to be marked. Went to a tobacco shop where I bought stamps, soap, starch, matches and candy – all for a franc. Walked around by the flower market and came home.
Spent the evening in Mrs. Hubbell’s room, showing her my postals and my marble bowl and leather card case. I wrote postals to John, Baby Florence, Marjorie and Constance Nice and Duncan, also one to Alfred.**
*There was a German patent in 1897 for such an iron which had a small container of alcohol fitted on to it to fuel it.
**Her grandchildren are John [Hincks], Baby Florence [Morse], Duncan [Morse]. Marjorie and Constance Nice are Margaret Morse Nice’s children and Alfred [Morse], Jennie’s son.
Thursday, July 16
Suffrage Convention in MA.
About 10 o’clock, went out to do errands with Helen. – She bought her ticket for San Pellegrino for tomorrow and did several errands for Florence. I went to Am. Ex. and found my dresses had not come and would probably not be here till August as it takes two months for packages to come through. Came home for lunch and had a nap. Then went out to do the last errands. Left my ring at Settipurse’s to have the claw fixed and my spoon to be marked. Bought some little strawberries which were half bad as I saw afterwards.
After dinner, sat in the drawing room with the Hubbells and heard Miss Ida sing. She has a very sweet voice – then read my letters –or parts of them to Helen while she packed. I had letters from Percy and Margaret and had to pay 10 centimes for a postal that she forgot to put an extra cent on. I was much amused to read that the Wm. Morse’s turned out en masse to inaugurate the new Suffrage Convention in Amherst. Margaret and Katherine rode on a float to represent two of the ten states that have given votes to women – Margey was to have gone with them, but couldn’t at the last moment. Will drove the auto with Mrs. Morse and three other ladies, also Duncan and Constance* all dressed in white with yellow trimmings, white parasols with yellow bows. Will wore white with yellow tie and hat band. FINE

Margaret feels very keenly about the unfortunate situation in California between the Percy Hincks and the Sanfords. The furniture trouble is only a symptom. I am going to do the best I can to bring them together again in harmony. The Sat. Eve. Posts came from Alfred and from Hazel. **
*Wm. Morse was the husband of her daughter, Margaret. Katherine Duncan Morse was William’s sister as was Margey, [Margaret Morse Nice], who was the mother of Constance. Duncan, age 5, was Margaret’s and Will’s son.
**The Sanfords are Florence, [Jennie's daughter], and husband, Thomas Sanford. Possibly the furniture business is about the disbursal of Jennie’s furniture.
Wednesday, July 15
Siena To San Gimignano to Florence, Italy

Got out at Poggibonsi* and found automobile, also crowd of small boys – so waited in salon II classe until nearly time to start. Had front seat. We went like the wind and shaved the corners and the carts. It was a hair-raising ride – Country was beautiful and wild flowers also but not numerous. Automobile stopped at gate of San Gimignano so walked up to the Hotel Leon Blanco and asked for F.B.H’s friends, the McLaughlan. Found Mrs. MacL. had left but Il signne was there.
Went to the Duomo and saw the famous Chapel of Santa Fina and all the frescoes and then to the Museo in the old Palazzo Popolo. The guard was fine and took me everywhere and talked Italian so that I felt I had rec’d a lesson and tipped him a franc.

Then went to lunch of omelet and cafĂ© latte and saw the Shaws there. The First Cousins - married pair, English people at the Flora – also saw in the distance Mr. MacL, asked to speak to him – I saw the little waitress tell him and saw him look at me as he passed and after lunch he sent out to know my name. Said I was sister of F.B.H. He came at once and was very nice. Took me to salon where he had coffee and a cigar and then the Shaws came in and I introduced them and we all talked an hour. Then he took me back to the Duomo where I went into La Capella di Santa Fina and saw the two curtained frescoes and thence to the church of Sant’Agostino where I saw everything.
Bought two lire of postal cards, went back to hotel, saw Mr. MacL who walked with me to the automobile. It was filled with men who gave me the inside middle seat. Got train all right and had to change at Empoli. Saw Mrs. Morse traveling 3rd class to Milan. Saw Helen on street with a big bunch of asters for me. Saw the Hubbells and Miss Hamm, all very pleasant. Sat in the parlor after dinner with the Hubbells and Helen and watched a young fellow from Buenos Aires do all manner of parlor magic tricks. He was very nice and a young Italian doctor was there. Talked to Helen afterwards and got to bed at midnight.
*Poggibonsi is an ancient town between Siena and Florence.
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