Art exposition: Venice Biennale

Slept pretty well, nevertheless, I was awfully tired when I got up. I had breakfast at 8:45 in the dining room with the O’s and a little before ten we were ready to go out.

We decided to go to the exposition at the public gardens* which the Padrone said was free. We took the water tram and had a short but pleasant ride. Found it cost 2 fr. to go in. We spent nearly two hours and a half there.

The Belgium exhibit was horrid - so many nude women. The Holland exhibit very interesting. The Italian extremely beautiful one picture in blues being perfectly wonderful study in tones. The illuminated books were extremely beautiful. The building itself is beautiful especially the two central halls – one in Japanese effect particularly so. – The French, Great Britain and German were not any good, but the Russian was an artistic building outside and in and had many fine interesting pictures. We had a most interesting morning.

Mrs. O. wanted to stay and take lunch there but I was so tired, I wanted to get back, so we all came. I had an egg for lunch – lay down and slept – got up at 5.

We had afternoon tea – the first Mrs. O. made in her teakettle which had had the match box in it – so it was strong of phosphorus and we threw it away. I put on my white suit and we took a steamer ride to the end of the route and back – beyond the station.

After dinner we three took a small boat to the Lido and return, coming back we sat in the front of the boat. It was very beautiful – stars were shining – I recognized the great dipper. The lights on shore where like a chain of brilliants. We got off at San Marco and went to the piazza and had an ice cream. Got home at 11 P.M.

I had a letter from Florence and one from Helen. The cure had been too much for Florence and she is ill again. I am so sorry.

*The Venice Biennale, a global forum of art, began in 1895. In the early years, decorative arts were important and from 1907, countries began building their own permanent pavillions. It was and is located in the Giardini Park.

First morning in Venice

It was the first morning in the pension and we had b’fast in our rooms, so we three had b’fast in Mrs. Oudesluy’s room.

Then we got ready and went to the Dodge’s [doge’s] Palace and went through it. It was certainly perfectly wonderful – it was so magnificently decorated. We went into the prison too and were disappointed because we did not go over the Bridge of Sighs.

We lay down a while after lunch and then a young Italian, a friend of a friend of theirs came and took them to the Lido while I was so tired I stayed at home and read over Percy’s and Hazel’s letters and then started a letter to Percy about the furniture which I did not have time to finish.

After dinner, Hortense and I went to the Piazza of San Marco and listened to the music. We went to a restaurant and had ice cream and H. had an orangeade and walked around and came up to the music stand and listened to a selection of the music and then came home. We got in at 11. I am feeling very tired and here is a mosquito.

Arrived at the Gregory in Venice

Got up at 6 and worked hard at my packing till 8 when Maria came in with my b’fast followed by Signora with my lunch and the bill. I had a great time in sorting out the things to take and the things to leave.

About 9:30 I went to French lesson, got my $60 cashed and gave the mail clerk $2.00 to look after my mail which he said he would. Bought Mrs. O. the Italian self taught book. Came back to the house and said good bye to the Hubbell’s and Signora, gave the servants 7 francs - enough too, but they were not grateful – never are.

Went to station and had to buy a second class ticket to Bologna. Saw Mrs. O. and her daughter and we got into a 2nd class carriage with two other people who soon got out and three priests got in two fat and one both fat and jolly. He talked a perfect stream for a couple of hours but could only understand a few words of what they said. My lunch was very good and the country beautiful.

Finally we came to Bologna where we changed trains and got into a 3rd class carriage which I liked better than 2nd- more air and more people so we can’t have any horrid tragedy. Got to Venice which looked like any station with solid ground and grass and weeds about it. We got two facchini *and tried to follow them but we lost them some way and so cut wandering around.

Finally Hortense discovered that our things were in a gondola and we soon got in and it was such fun being poled along through narrow canals and under bridges and running into other gondolas. Most of the houses are dirty and dingy and even black as thought they had been through a fire.

Finally we came to the Gregory. It is up two flights of stairs. We have two connecting rooms – a bureau wash stand, a table, two beds. Mine is very tiny, over the stairs, with a bed, a commode, a bureau wash stand, a table, two chairs, and a wooden 3 pegged clothes rack in the wall for all my clothes. I got them all on too.

I had a cinder in my eye and borrowed Mrs. O’s scissors and I never saw anyone so dirty in my life. Washed my face 4 times with soap and hot water. We had a nice dinner, read a London paper in the living room and went to bed; at 9:45 I was in bed.
Mosquito net - I like it here immensely.

*porters

Errands in Florence before traveling to Venice

Got up at 7 – wrote to Uncle Hugh enclosing F.T.H.’s last two letters and to Helen, sending her two letters that came from America – also wrapped up packet of postal cards re re – Got off at 10 with Mrs. Tanner.

Found my white suit ready to try on and then went to P.O. and sent off my things – and then with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent two wonderful hours there and drove home, Mrs. Tanner paying for the carriage.

After lunch, had an hour’s nap, then got up, washed out my night gown that Maria forgot to do, ironed my three waists – and then went out to do errands. Was too late at the Lemon French to get any money – but saw about notification home in case of accident, about my letters and about my trunk.

Then bought 3rd class ticket to Venice – asked about pieces of my white suit – went about collar and cuff set for Mrs. O not finished yet – then got my night dresses and came home tired out. Tried to look over my trunk.

Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me into her room to have some lemonade. It was very good. Showed them the children’s pictures which they said they admired very much.

Determined to go to bed and leave the packing till morning which I did about midnight.

French lessons at the Dogana and at Palazzo Vecchio

Wrote on my letter to Florence S. till 8 o’clock when I had b’fast – did my usual little washing and a little mending and at a little [before/after] 10, started off for the dogana or Custom House. Went away down to the Duomo and took train no. 19 and had a pleasant ride around the city and finally come to the dogana and had a curious interview with the official. He opened the box – looked at the white suit that I bought in San Jose 4 years ago – declared positively that it was new – and that I had paid what was right in duties. I showed him the bottom of the skirt and protested that it was old, antiquated, ancient, – then he pulled it around – finally said it was old and that I would get my money back in October. All this was in French – ye gods and little fishes.

Went to the tailor’s and he will charge me $3 for altering it. I tried it on and I am to go tomorrow morning again. Bought a lot of interesting postal cards to send home. Lay down a little while, then dressed and went with Mrs. Tanner to the Uffizi Gallery. Found it closed at 4 so as we would have only half an hour, we said we would not go in – so we went to Palazzo Vecchio and went all over it. A guide went around with us and spoke French so I had a French lesson. It was very interesting and instructive and the rooms of Cosimo II, Duke of the Medicis – 1556 – and his bride, Elinor, were both magnificent and interesting. We did not have time to go up the tower before closing time. We went to the Duomo and then to St. Michele and hunted about for Albion tea room* but it was closed so went in the Tornabuoni for tea. The whole afternoon was Mrs. Tanner’s treat to me. Ride to Palazzo Vecchio – tip to guide – and tea. After dinner, looked over and tied up 165 postals to send home.

*There is an Albion tea room mentioned “Italy, Handbook for Travellers: First Part, Northern Italy” by Karl Baedecker, 1906 (pg. 462) and in “Mediterranean Winter Resorts” by Eustace Alfred Reynolds-Ball, 1908 (pg. 215). It was located at 5, Via dei Vecchi.

Riding on the Arno

Duncan’s birthday*. I wonder what he is doing! Got up early and wrote on my letter to F.T.S.** before breakfast. Then washed out a couple of pieces and wrote a note to Signorina Carli and one to Mrs. Oudesluys – tied up Baedeker to send to F.B.H.***– and the catalogue of Pitti palace to send Sig. Carli. Started out at 11 – went to P.O. and sent off books, catalogue, re. Then inquired about any packages. It is the box with my dresses – duty 6.32 Frs. And they are to send the box to the customhouse tomorrow and I am to go there to explain and probably they will remit the duty as the clothes have been used. Robas usatas. Bought my new Italian grammar and went to Am. Ex. Co. They will take my trunk to Munich for 12 Frs. $2.40.

After lunch at which I ate a hard pear. I did not feel very well. Lay down awhile and had a short nap. Then got up and mended and studied Italian till dinnertime. After dinner we went in to see Turner’s new dress, shepherd’s plaid with pink girdle and buttons – very pretty. Then Mrs. Hubbell and Mrs. Turner suggested that we should all go for a ride on the Arno at four cents. We did and I had the seat in front. It was beautiful on the river. Mrs. Hubbell and her daughter went in after going around once, but Mrs. Turner and I went around a second time.
Terribly sleepy. I am going to bed.

*Her first grandchild, Margaret’s son, William Duncan Morse, was born July 20, 1909. He was always known as “Duncan” within the family.
**Florence Thurston Sanford, her daughter.
**Florence Bowers Humphreys, her sister, who was in Florence with Jennie earlier in the summer.

Four Churches but No Service

Awoke before 7 – had breakfast at 7:20 so as to try to go somewhere before church. I went to the Museo of San Marco and found it beautiful and most interesting. I saw famous pictures and frescoes of the cell where Savonarola lived when he was preaching his famous sermons.

Then I left and went around to the English church which was just behind San Marco and met a lady who said that Mass was just over, that the service was at 10 o’clock in summer instead of eleven – so I thought it must be an Eng. Catholic church. I went on and went in and sat there a few minutes and really thought it was a Catholic church – beautiful stained glass windows and coming out I saw a notice in the side of the English Episcopal church – must be a very high church.

Went back to the church of San Marco and sat there – so many worshippers - I did not like to walk around. Came home. On the way bought four brightly painted wooden topped cork. After lunch, lay down a while – then went on with my letter to Margaret – which I finished in the evening.

At 5 o’clock I started out to go to Piazza San Annunziata to hear the fine music in the vesper service. An English priest had told me at San Marco that the music was beautiful and that it would be at six. Not knowing the distance I took two cars to get there. There were a number of people in the church, but no crowd and they went all quickly saying their prayers. I sat down and waited. Finally I asked a nice looking woman next me and she said the service would be at eight, so I left.

Then I saw the two Hubbell girls. I had told them about the service being at 6 and also about the 11 A.M. service and they had tried to go to both and in neither case was there a service. We decided to walk home when we saw a notice that there would be a service at 6:30 in the church of San Firenze and that the archbishop would be there so we asked several people till we found where the church was and flew around to find a beautiful church and few people in it. It was after 6:30. What could it mean? As we were sitting there it flashed over me that it was to be July 26th and this was the 19th. We were a week ahead. I laughed out loud. We walked home. I had been in 4 churches and no service today. Began a letter to F.T.S. To bed at 10.

Back in Florence

Studied Italian as usual at breakfast-time. I find I am improving though I do not give much time to it. Washed out my two waists and arranged with Maria to wash the two pink woollies.
I went to the Pitti Palace and looked at the pictures and enjoyed doing so very much. The rooms were magnificent in themselves.

I was late to lunch.
Ate fruit afterwards – three apricots – crackers and jam – and had a nap of 1 ½ hours. Then I went to the store that Helen showed me and took my waist to have a new collar for which she is to charge me a lira – and ordered two crepe night dresses that I can wash myself.
Went afterwards into the Santa Croce Church.
Tried to write to Margaret but I was too tired
I received a notice that my dress is at the post office.
I love to hear the little pleasure boat go up and down the Arno with the lights, the song and the people.

Errands back in Florence

Woke at 4 – and got up at 5 – dressed and went upstairs and took Helen by surprise. Helped her get ready and went to the station and helped about her trunk. She was in an apartment for ladies and there were three who spoke English and she had the window seat. Saw the rain start – Walked home – Cooked my strawberries and had b’fast. Then had a grand wash of Harriet, Susan, June, and Rebecca. Also some small pieces and my waist. Mended a little, worked all the morning. After lunch, borrowed Mrs. Hubbell’s alcohol iron* and ironed my waist, then took a nap.

Mrs. Hubbell came in and invited me to come up to tea to meet a Mr. Pecker from California, but I thought I wouldn’t. Dressed and went out after my ring and spoon that I left to be marked. Went to a tobacco shop where I bought stamps, soap, starch, matches and candy – all for a franc. Walked around by the flower market and came home.

Spent the evening in Mrs. Hubbell’s room, showing her my postals and my marble bowl and leather card case. I wrote postals to John, Baby Florence, Marjorie and Constance Nice and Duncan, also one to Alfred.**

*There was a German patent in 1897 for such an iron which had a small container of alcohol fitted on to it to fuel it.
**Her grandchildren are John [Hincks], Baby Florence [Morse], Duncan [Morse]. Marjorie and Constance Nice are Margaret Morse Nice’s children and Alfred [Morse], Jennie’s son.

Suffrage Convention in MA.

Slept pretty well. Put in an hour’s hard work on Italian “verbi.” Find it pays.

About 10 o’clock, went out to do errands with Helen. – She bought her ticket for San Pellegrino for tomorrow and did several errands for Florence. I went to Am. Ex. and found my dresses had not come and would probably not be here till August as it takes two months for packages to come through. Came home for lunch and had a nap. Then went out to do the last errands. Left my ring at Settipurse’s to have the claw fixed and my spoon to be marked. Bought some little strawberries which were half bad as I saw afterwards.
After dinner, sat in the drawing room with the Hubbells and heard Miss Ida sing. She has a very sweet voice – then read my letters –or parts of them to Helen while she packed. I had letters from Percy and Margaret and had to pay 10 centimes for a postal that she forgot to put an extra cent on. I was much amused to read that the Wm. Morse’s turned out en masse to inaugurate the new Suffrage Convention in Amherst. Margaret and Katherine rode on a float to represent two of the ten states that have given votes to women – Margey was to have gone with them, but couldn’t at the last moment. Will drove the auto with Mrs. Morse and three other ladies, also Duncan and Constance* all dressed in white with yellow trimmings, white parasols with yellow bows. Will wore white with yellow tie and hat band. FINE

Margaret feels very keenly about the unfortunate situation in California between the Percy Hincks and the Sanfords. The furniture trouble is only a symptom. I am going to do the best I can to bring them together again in harmony. The Sat. Eve. Posts came from Alfred and from Hazel. **

*Wm. Morse was the husband of her daughter, Margaret. Katherine Duncan Morse was William’s sister as was Margey, [Margaret Morse Nice], who was the mother of Constance. Duncan, age 5, was Margaret’s and Will’s son.
**The Sanfords are Florence, [Jennie's daughter], and husband, Thomas Sanford. Possibly the furniture business is about the disbursal of Jennie’s furniture.

Siena To San Gimignano to Florence, Italy

Awoke at 5 – up at 6 – breakfast at 7 – left the house at 7:20 and in train at 7:30. Signora came up to say goodbye –“as she had to go to market and couldn’t wait. “ I left house five minutes later.

Got out at Poggibonsi* and found automobile, also crowd of small boys – so waited in salon II classe until nearly time to start. Had front seat. We went like the wind and shaved the corners and the carts. It was a hair-raising ride – Country was beautiful and wild flowers also but not numerous. Automobile stopped at gate of San Gimignano so walked up to the Hotel Leon Blanco and asked for F.B.H’s friends, the McLaughlan. Found Mrs. MacL. had left but Il signne was there.

Went to the Duomo and saw the famous Chapel of Santa Fina and all the frescoes and then to the Museo in the old Palazzo Popolo. The guard was fine and took me everywhere and talked Italian so that I felt I had rec’d a lesson and tipped him a franc.

Then went to lunch of omelet and café latte and saw the Shaws there. The First Cousins - married pair, English people at the Flora – also saw in the distance Mr. MacL, asked to speak to him – I saw the little waitress tell him and saw him look at me as he passed and after lunch he sent out to know my name. Said I was sister of F.B.H. He came at once and was very nice. Took me to salon where he had coffee and a cigar and then the Shaws came in and I introduced them and we all talked an hour. Then he took me back to the Duomo where I went into La Capella di Santa Fina and saw the two curtained frescoes and thence to the church of Sant’Agostino where I saw everything.

Bought two lire of postal cards, went back to hotel, saw Mr. MacL who walked with me to the automobile. It was filled with men who gave me the inside middle seat. Got train all right and had to change at Empoli. Saw Mrs. Morse traveling 3rd class to Milan. Saw Helen on street with a big bunch of asters for me. Saw the Hubbells and Miss Hamm, all very pleasant. Sat in the parlor after dinner with the Hubbells and Helen and watched a young fellow from Buenos Aires do all manner of parlor magic tricks. He was very nice and a young Italian doctor was there. Talked to Helen afterwards and got to bed at midnight.

*Poggibonsi is an ancient town between Siena and Florence.

Readying to Leave Siena

I was late in starting out having finished letter to Margaret inc. letter from Alfred and my answer, also 3 Kodak prints of myself and other letters re.

Went to Museo of Duomo – chapel of San Giovanni and Piccolomini Library.* Got there a few minutes before twelve, not knowing it closed at twelve. Guard said we must leave and to come back in afternoon or tomorrow, so went back at 2:30. Saw all the frescoes and bought over 4 francs worth of postals of Siena and a marble bowl from the Museo. Some of these postals I bought on the Via Carmi (sp?). Took a book out of library about San Gimignano, bought seeds and wafers off a peddler to try them.

Came home and settled bill with Signora. She is not friendly, I suppose because I would not pay for my breakfasts served in my room. Then too I thought it was 18 when it was 19 - paid 116.50. Paid 6.50 for having shoes repaired, a very high price. Signorina Orlandi came, but she was distraite and I was tired so the lesson was not a success. Paid her 9 lire. After dinner, packed my bag and hold all, also read about San Gimignano and wrote in this diary. I am glad I am going to leave this pension.

* Both the Piccolomini Library and St. John the Baptist Chapel are located in the Duomo di Siena.

Duomo and Strawberries

Sat up so late last night writing to Alfred that I was tired this morning. Had strawberries for b’fast. Had a letter from Helen. Dr. Giglioli wants her to go to the San Pellegrino* if only for 10 days so she is going.

Went to the Duomo for a while this morning and was much impressed with it. Brought some strawberries on the way home. Tried to buy six centessimi - 1 1/5 cents – worth instead of six soldi** – 6 cents.

Lay down after lunch – then went down to see the cobbler about my shoes. Then studied Italian till Signorina Orlandi came. Also studied this morning and this noon. We had a funny conversation tonight with the so-called count – think he is just an ordinary teacher – in Italian, French, and German. Wrote a note to Helen to say, I wanted to go to San Gimignano*** and would not reach Florence till 7 P.M. Also wrote to French Lemon to ask them to send my letters to Pension Crocini.

*Probably San Pellegrino Terme in Lombardy
**”Soldi” are old Italian coins worth 5 centesimi.

Medical Mishap Averted

I had a dreadful fright this morning. The maid who brought my hot water gave me a small bottle ½ full of liquid and partly by words and partly by gestures explained that she had broken my bottle in dusting, but had brought me another of the same medicine. I thought she meant that she had passed what was left of the cascara into another bottle, but in handing the bottle found it left a yellow stain in my hand and it proved to be tincture of iodine.

What would have become of me if I had taken 40 drops of tincture of iodine? I don’t know. I went right down to the Signora and she called the maids up and talked to them well, but I don’t think it made much impression and indeed I think she helped them get the medicine. Was much shaken up over it. Went to church and gave 5 lire for a thanks offering. Wrote to Florence to tell her about what had happened to me and to tell her of father’s 3 accidents to prove to her that she couldn’t have his disease.

Began a letter to Alfred. Took a nap – then went over to get some gelato – ice-cream – a German woman came up and sat with me and we talked a while in four languages. She was alone and lonely and her only son is in America. Came home and sat in my window to listen to the band playing in the Lizza.

Walked in the Lizza with the Oudesluys after dinner. Sat up till after midnight writing to Alfred about the disposition of the furniture in California.

Letters, Letters

Helen came into my room soon after six all dressed and ready to go, and even then she had not fully decided to go, but the maid called her and she left to get her b’fast and then came back and said good-by and started for Florence with Mrs. Clement and Miss Jeannerett.

Had b’fast and studied Italian. Then the maid came in with the mail for me from French Lemon & Co., two letters from Percy, one from Alfred enclosing $60, in money, one from Margaret, one from Florence S., one from F.B.H. and one from Uncle Hugh with his fifth manuscript, 2 to Helen from Hotel des Thermes. I wrote a note to Helen and addressed it to the Riccioli* and enclosed her two letters and the one I rec’d from F.B.H. and sent it, also sent one to Crocini for fear she might have gone there. Also forwarded to F. B. H. a note that Florence S. had sent her in my care and wrote her a little note.

Talked about Venice and the Dolomite trip with Mrs. O. and found out how much they were expected to cost. Wrote to F. B. about them. Mailed the letters about 3, went up town to Mosca’s to hunt for Nellie’s card case. “Not found,” the clerk said. Came back and studied hard an hour and a half on my Italian before Signorina Orlandi came. Had a good lesson. The Italian was at dinner and we had a polyglot conversation again. Left the table to look at the soldiers returning from Africa. Sat on the porch. Miss Gamble and her friend came over. Miss G. had taken the Dolomite trip and told us a lot about it. Mrs. O. and I walked around the Lizza** and came in. I am tired and going to bed.

Alfred’s landlady, Mrs. Johnstone, died very suddenly. I am sorry. She was a nice woman. He is well. He wrote me about the furniture. Could not find my cascara,*** but just pieces of the bottle. It must have been broken.

*Probably Riccioli, Via dei Tintori, mentioned in Italy Handbook for Travellers, by Karl Baedeker, 1906
** City park, La Lizza.
***Cascara-medicinal bark taken for constipation.

Sightseeing in Old Siena

Dressed somewhat earlier so as to go with Helen and Miss Jeannerett. We went through the oldest part of Siena – Via Castel Vecchio re to the Porta San Marco. We visited three churches en route – The Oratory of St. Mary of the Snow – and the Convento del Carmine and I do not remember the other – nothing of especial interest. We saw an old woman making twine out of flax. – We watched her a few minutes and then I gave her two cents – Lay down a few minutes before lunch. Slept 1 ½ hours after lunch – then changed my dress and started in to study. Wrote two exercises when Helen came in from her call on Miss Haskell and we talked over plans. She hates to go to Florence, but I want her to go to see Dr. Giglioli for I think he can help her and she needs help.

I had an interesting lesson with Signorina Orlandi – and I am learning with her.
At dinner I talked to the gentleman who sat next to me – in school girl French and worse Italian and convulsed the English speaking crowd. I heard afterwards that he was a count. He speaks French and German, of course Italian, understands English, but cannot speak it. After dinner Mrs. Clement, Miss Jeannerett, Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I sat in the parlor chatting. Mrs. Clement and her daughter go tomorrow. Helen is packed but does not know whether to go or not. She wants to see Florence’s letter. She dreads going alone – but it is only a two hour ride.

Churches and Italian Studies

Went with Mrs. Oudesluys, Mrs. Clement, Helen, Miss Jeannerette and Flora Davis to the church of Santo Spirito on the Via Ricasoli – then with Helen and Miss Jeannerette to the Porta Romana. It was a most interesting morning and we saw interesting old houses and queer old streets. I stopped at the church coming back and got my card case and it is a beauty.



Lay down an hour after lunch – then studied Italian till five when I went out with Mrs. O and Helen to the church of Santa Maria di Fontegiusta. It is the most beautiful church I have ever seen with the most beautiful altar, nothing tawdry about it.

I came back to take my lesson and Helen and Mrs. O went in the Cusurelli* farm. They reached there so late that they stayed to dinner and did not get back till nearly nine.

I had a very nice lesson with Signoria Orlandi. She will make me learn if anyone can.

After dinner went upstairs to sit with Hortense O. who has been in bed all day. We were speculating as to what had happened to her mother and Helen when they came in and told us of their adventures.

I wrote to the Pension Crocini and to French Lemon & Co. to send me my mail.

*Possibly Lucarelli, a town outside of Tuscany, which has a farm house which has had guests since the 1880’s.

Siena Duomo

Slept pretty well. After breakfast, moved my things into the front room, no. 8 that Miss Herron had. I like it very much. Then Helen and I went out to the Duomo for an hour and I looked at the pavement and the upper rose window of the Last Supper.


Meant to have laid down but I got reading The New York Times that Mrs. Clement lent me. I did take a nap in my chair. Oh by the way – I have a rocking chair.

My teacher, Signorina Vittoria Orlandi, came by at 5 and I like her very much indeed. After she left, I studied till time to get ready for dinner. After dinner chatted awhile with Mrs. Clement, Mrs. and Miss O. and Helen. Then we four went out into the park and took a walk.

Studied Italian awhile after I came in.

Palazzo dei Diavoli

Woke up soon after 5 and could not go to sleep. Got up a little after six and wrote a letter to Uncle Hugh enclosing Florence’s letter from San Pellegrino.

Washed out some gloves, h’chiefs re – did some sewing – went out with Helen to take a tram ride but the tram was so late in starting that we thought we should not have time before lunch – so started home – Met the English woman from the Crocini, Mrs. Moore. She said Mrs. Wylde was going to the Dolomites tomorrow.

Did not lie down after lunch but mended my clothes instead. Expected the Italian teacher at four – but she came at five and said she could not give me a lesson today, but would tomorrow at 5.

Then Mrs. Oudesluys, Helen and I went out and got into a train that went to the Piazza Diavoli*. It was a pleasant ride. We walked back going into a church on the way – near the house. I came into the house and rested while the others sat in the park.

After dinner, sat with Helen, Mrs. Clement and her daughter, Miss Jeanerette. They told lots of funny stories, Miss. J. especially of the quaint things her Italian pupils in New York had said. It is cold tonight.

*Probably the Palazzo dei Diavoli, sometimes called the Palazzo del Turco, and located outside the Porta Camillia.

Cimitero della Misericordia (Cemetery of Mercy) Siena

Slept till 8:30. Had b’fast – afterwards went out with Helen to the market and bought some wild strawberries and was dreadfully cheated by the woman. I came back and stewed them for breakfast – tomorrow.

Helen said that I did not need to go back to Florence with her but that I could stay on here and come up later and she would go and consult the doctor and do what he said – but she would try to persuade him to let her go into Switzerland with me. The Signora will give me the room Miss Herron has. She leaves tomorrow.

Talked with the Clements awhile before lunch. Lay down after lunch and had a good sleep of 1 ½ hours – finished my family letter and mailed it.

Helen and I walked out to the cemetery of the Misericordia and saw the monuments there – the beautiful Pieta* re and walked back.



After dinner, we talked to Miss H. and Mrs. Cl., then I wrote a note to Florence and to the Italian teacher Miss H. recommended and Signora sent the maids out to mail them.

*probably the Pieta created by Giovanni Dupré in 1863 for the family tomb of the Marchese Bichi-Ruspoli in the cemetery of the Misericordia, Siena.